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Old Sep 29, 2011, 08:13 PM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
6,915 Posts
Build Log
Making A Long Skinny Thingy.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES:
Here a video that should be watched before you build with this DLG fuselage:
Tour of the Wyoming Wind Works DLG 1.5 Fuse (8 min 39 sec)


A note on wing bolt/fasteners
The tappable wing bolt blocks are made from aluminum. Aluminum fasteners in an aluminum thread can bind. You can either not use an aluminum fastener or regularly use an anti-seizing compound on the threads to prevent binding.

Canopy Location
Why put the canopy on the bottom? - CLICK HERE

Videos
Layup Video
Demolding Video



Original Start of the Build Thread
Here is my attempt at making a long skinny thingy to strap a DLG wing onto.

So far I've got a canopy plug that is ready to mold. I'm going to be making the canopy via the PFP (plastic face plaster) technique. No CNC work involved. Just some good old hand shaping via CAD generated templates.

Kind of fun.
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Last edited by wyowindworks; Mar 04, 2012 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Sep 29, 2011, 08:19 PM
Team Hong Kong F3K
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man, your work is beautiful!
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Old Sep 29, 2011, 08:25 PM
Hey was that a Thermal ????
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It's about time you joined the party Bud. I have been Bugging my good friend to come over to the dark side for a long time !!! I am so looking forward to putting one of these under one of my wings.

Paul
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Old Sep 29, 2011, 08:41 PM
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silky smooooth
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Old Sep 29, 2011, 09:57 PM
sewing machine thumb
United States, CA, Palo Alto
Joined Jul 2001
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Is there anyone else on the planet who starts a new DLG project with the canopy?

I'm really looking forward to seeing what you come up with, Adam. Maybe it will be time to start the "Wyoming DLG Happenings" thread soon.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 12:29 AM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
6,915 Posts
Canopy Mold Step 1

Thanks for the compliments guys. I like things to be nice and shiny.

Frank, though it may seem a little backwards there is a method to my madness.

Progress
I seated the canopy plug in the foam tray using a bead of clay around the perimeter. I pushed the canopy into the tray so the clay squeezed out around the perimeter. Then I trimmed the clay flush with the sides of the canopy. The tray is made from 25 psi XPS foam and covered with packing tape to seal it. The boards in the photo below were also covered with packing take to seal them.

See the captions below for the rest. BTW, you need to use a special hydrophobic epoxy resin to do a PFP mold.

Adam
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 01:00 AM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
6,915 Posts
Canopy Mold Step 2

I waited until the first coat of surface coat gelled. It was tacky when touched but no surface was transferred to the finger tip. I then brushed on a second coat of surface coat and flocked it. I'll let this set up for 15 minutes before pouring the plaster (even though the instruction for the surface coat say to pour the plaster immediately). See photo captions for more info.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 01:39 AM
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Boy Adam it's been a while since I heard the term's PFP, tacky to the touch dry to the sweep etc. I remember doing the elephant ear fairing's for the rear door for the CH-53 Super Stallion back in the late 70's early 80's, that was a rather large PFP. I have to laugh at Doug M when he bring's up the mat'l Hydrocal, I think he has stock in the company. I wonder how much a 100lb bag of Superfine goes for today.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 01:46 AM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
6,915 Posts
Canopy Mold Step 3

After letting the second application of surface coat set for 15 minutes, I did another application of the cotton flock and blew off the excess. I then mixed up the plaster. I used DAP Plaster of Paris because I can't get any of the USG products in town (Ultracal, Hdrocal). Getting a $30 bag ends up costing me $100 with shipping. One of the bummers about living in a small town...

See photo captions for more info.

BTW, I've never done a PFP mold so this is my first go at it. Right or wrong it's whats going on.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 10:38 AM
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Pleasant Grove, UT
Joined Jul 2005
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Very nice Adam. The carbon fiber reinforcements are a great addition to the mold. Small single sided molds is the only application I ever got PFP to work for me. Looking forward to the rest of the build!

Molded wing or bagged?
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 11:06 AM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfinch View Post
Very nice Adam. The carbon fiber reinforcements are a great addition to the mold. Small single sided molds is the only application I ever got PFP to work for me. Looking forward to the rest of the build!

Molded wing or bagged?
Bagged wing for now. The saddle is designed to receive a 7.5" Edge at the root.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 12:13 PM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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Jigging the Boom

This step was done a while ago, but I thought I'd post some pics.

Since everything is being shaped from CAD generated templates, it was easy to extrapolate printed patterns for the alignment jig for the boom. This boom get "ovalized" later.

Photo captions contain more info.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 01:13 PM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
6,915 Posts
MDF and such

BTW, the pod portion of the fuse was cut and shaped from MDF. MDF shapes easily and stays nice and stable. Most woods will cause the grain to print-thru to the surface if the temperature changes. That pristine paint finish can turn into poo in hurry if the wood changes. Once the MDF gets shaped I saturate it with epoxy resin. This then makes it handle like a hard plastic.

More info in the captions.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 01:22 PM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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Baking the Canopy Mold

I just started baking the moisture out of the plaster backed canopy mold. I'm baking it in the composites curing oven at 150*F. Interestingly, the plaster is slow to elevate in temperature. The moisture that is evaporating out of it keeps cooling it down. When I put my lips near the surface I can feel the moisture escaping. I'll bake it until it's dry. The surface coat is good to over 200*F. The plug was pre-baked to 150*F before the molding began in insure that it was stable.

Adam
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 01:28 PM
Russ Young
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United States, UT, South Jordan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
When I put my lips near the surface I can feel the moisture escaping.

Adam
Are you also giving it a little kiss for good luck?
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