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Old Dec 29, 2011, 01:26 PM
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Canada, ON, Toronto
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Originally Posted by pug398 View Post
Paul, I am not doing anything special. Just made up ten hexes with a stop time 10uS difference. Was surprised a 50uS difference could have such a big effect on start time but mine did. Haven't done any files for new release waiting to hear back if it helped others with same esc I use or it may be nothing to it and I just got lucky. If you want to give it a try the files use a stop time between 1000uS and 1090uS. Flash any starting close with 1050 and then adjust to them.

Hmm another computer attack. Hope you guys got your AV turned up this is getting quite frequent
That was the info I needed
thanks, I am appreciative
Paul
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 01:32 PM
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Canada, ON, Toronto
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pug398 View Post
Paul, I am not doing anything special. Just made up ten hexes with a stop time 10uS difference. Was surprised a 50uS difference could have such a big effect on start time but mine did. Haven't done any files for new release waiting to hear back if it helped others with same esc I use or it may be nothing to it and I just got lucky. If you want to give it a try the files use a stop time between 1000uS and 1090uS. Flash any starting close with 1050 and then adjust to them.

Hmm another computer attack. Hope you guys got your AV turned up this is getting quite frequent

Am I correct to say this does not effecting the osc speed of the mpu.
What you are doing is adjusting the startup point of the esc BASED on the differences in the internal mpu speed.

am I correct?
Paul
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by alll View Post
Could you explain the theory behind this? (out of curiosity)
The motors get electric pules at 8 kHz or 16 kHz. 8 kHz is a very ugly tone. 16 kHz is above the frequency most people are able to hear.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 01:58 PM
hacker
Canada, BC, North Vancouver
Joined Dec 2010
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Originally Posted by alll View Post
Could you explain the theory behind this? (out of curiosity)
It's just the frequency at which the controller PWMs (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation) the output phases in order to control the average voltage and thus speed. Faster than about 16kHz makes it out of audible range for most humans, preventing insanity. Most power supplies, etc., switch at ~20kHz. With a motor, too low a frequency / too long an interval will saturate the motor core (particularly with small motors), causing excessive current and turning it into the equivalent of voltage across a resistor. Too high/short an interval makes back-EMF sense more noisy and heats up the FETs and motor a bit more because of more on-off switching and (de)magnetization.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 02:31 PM
manuLRK
Belgium
Joined Sep 2004
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And the "tik", ... "tak"..."tik", "tak" of the original firmware(s), where does this come from?

Quote:
Originally Posted by larsm View Post
The motors get electric pules at 8 kHz or 16 kHz. 8 kHz is a very ugly tone. 16 kHz is above the frequency most people are able to hear.
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Last edited by alll; Dec 29, 2011 at 02:52 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 02:57 PM
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VA
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Correct. Kind of hit and miss but the 10uS steps seem to be close enough. I fixed the top end at 1900uS but the offset can be added to it

Quote:
Originally Posted by dowlinger View Post
Am I correct to say this does not effecting the osc speed of the mpu.
What you are doing is adjusting the startup point of the esc BASED on the differences in the internal mpu speed.

am I correct?
Paul
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 04:49 PM
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Joined Mar 2011
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To the esc guru's,

i really want to take advantage of flashing my esc's if i can, and why not, if it will increase performance on my hexa and quad im all for it. i posted previously about my plush 25 on my hexa and was bummed that i couldnt flash them because of sil. well my questions are:

1. its seems all plush series now have SIL any news on SIL programming in future?
2. the rctimer 20a is good to go for flashing?
3. a recommendation of esc for a hexa handling 350w motors, between the eRC 25A or HobbyKing 30A BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller?

i have 3 types of esc on my flying machines.
plush 10a , plush 25a, rctimer 20a
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 05:29 PM
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yes rctimer is good. i just bought 4 20a from them
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by pug398 View Post
The internal oscillator are probably off a little between them causing start time to be a few tens of microseconds different. If you flashed them with tgy.hex I have a set of hexes that have a 10uS step between them you are welcome to try AYOR.
Pug, may I have that set of tgy hex? Thanks. How are they working on your Rctimers? Mine is 40A and I cannot to get them to start at the same time with DJI
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by chatch15117 View Post
yes rctimer is good. i just bought 4 20a from them
Not sure about your 20As but my 40As do not have ext crystal.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 08:37 PM
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I successfully flashed my Red Brick 25a ESC from HobbyKing
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18003
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by flashervn View Post
Pug, may I have that set of tgy hex? Thanks. How are they working on your Rctimers? Mine is 40A and I cannot to get them to start at the same time with DJI
Mine are DYS30A but look the same from what I see. They wouldn't start same on three different controllers but have been fine since flashing. I think it was said a calibration routine was going to be worked on so it may be moot point before long.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 09:44 PM
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Atlanta, GA
Joined Oct 2006
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Originally Posted by Farmer_Joe View Post
Did any one manage to reflash 10A ESC from http://www.goodluckbuy.com/index.php...oduct_id=62146 it could be the same as this... http://www.himodel.com/electric/HiMo...pe_GX-10A.html
No, I put aside that one from goodluckbuy since the ATmega chip on it is much smaller that on the picture (0.5mm between pins, I guess that is called QFN/MLF packaging) and I cannot easily connect the wires to flash it.
On himodel ESC - picture can be (and it is) completely different from what they actually sell, and I've ordered from them and of course received SIL based...

UPD: now said that I'm not 100% sure if that SIL based was actually from himodel... I bought them recently from so many different places so I might those with goodluckbuy ones.
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Old Dec 30, 2011, 02:06 AM
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http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dy-103...resccombo.html

DYNAM / DETRUM ESC 18A at least uses atmega8

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trkp...&_sop=15&_sc=1

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trkp...&_sop=15&_sc=1

searching ebay or sites for either dynam or detrum esc yield similar results. dynam = detrum.

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Old Dec 30, 2011, 02:09 AM
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individual:
$9.70 18A
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dye-1001-18a-esc.html

$10.50 25A
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dye-1002-25a-esc.html

$11 30A
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dye-1003-30a-esc.html

$13.38 40A
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dye-1004-40a-esc.html

$26 2x40A
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dye-40a-x-2-esc.html

$17.98 50A
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dye-1017-50a-esc.html

$26 70A
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dye-1018-70a-esc.html


i guess the bigger you get, the more efficient and cooler it will run.
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