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Old Nov 20, 2012, 04:40 PM
Registered User
Austria, OÖ, Aschach an der Steyr
Joined Jun 2011
15 Posts
I have some Skywing SW-80A ESCīs.

Has somebody a idea which firmware I can use?
Attached see the photos.

The Fetīs have the No: F KK42 FDD 8896.

The Half-bridge-driver has following No: IR2101 S 0347 IOR.
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 09:44 PM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2009
198 Posts
I'm just recently switched my Ecilop Quad to SimonK flashed Rctimer 30amp ESCs and have a question about overheating. Before flashing the esc would get warm but never really hot. They are now getting pretty steamy and I've only flown them in some very cool weather. Is this normal and is it safe? How hot is too hot? Also can the PID settings on my Multiwii baord affect how rapidly it heats up? I've got a decent little bird and I'd rather not see it fall out of the sky.
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 11:06 PM
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Joined Mar 2009
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Oh and I'm running Avroto 2814 motors
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 03:12 AM
James not bond
jy0933's Avatar
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined May 2012
2,074 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rc my life View Post
hi simonk
I use six fet n-channel
I do not use adc to indicate low battery
in addition to motor control, it does not add any task, it is only suitable for multirotor
looks well..

but now i'm more expecting some smaller esc that can handle high s battery while being light weight

i run in such a problem that only 40A+ esc can handle 6s battery.. but my current is like 3A for all time... those esc with heatsink weight 60g+... pretty heavy..

it would be very nice to see some light weight 6s 20A esc
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 04:01 AM
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Joined Nov 2012
217 Posts
Ok, just if somebody else owns these ESCs.

They work perfect with the bs.hex file.

Many thanks Simon for the cool project.

Bye
JR63


Quote:
Originally Posted by JR63 View Post
Hi,

does anybody know the following ESC and which SimonK FW is needed for this one:




The MOSFETs are AP4503AGM p-n channel MOSFET, so a pn FW is needed, but which one?

Many thanks
JR
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Last edited by JR63; Nov 22, 2012 at 04:00 AM. Reason: jpg link corrected
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 05:49 AM
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Joined Nov 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jy0933 View Post
looks well..

but now i'm more expecting some smaller esc that can handle high s battery while being light weight

i run in such a problem that only 40A+ esc can handle 6s battery.. but my current is like 3A for all time... those esc with heatsink weight 60g+... pretty heavy..

it would be very nice to see some light weight 6s 20A esc
if you want to use 6s battery power, small weight, just a little change

use driver bridge h ir 2101

12 fet N IRF 7832 (20a ,30v,0.7moh )

it is work 6 cell lipo
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 07:13 AM
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I'm running it on a 4s bat and flight times are around 11 min
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 08:46 AM
Plane and multirotor's - FPV
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Moss, Norway
Joined Jun 2007
856 Posts
Hi.
I have these two esc that are exactly alike, one Turnigy and one Aoxan.
In the database the are listed as SIL chip, but these are Atmega8.

What ver. hex do i need to flash on them ?
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 03:01 PM
Lt Col, USAF, Retired
United States, IL, Swansea
Joined Jan 2010
288 Posts
Searched the entire thread and the spreadsheet. Anyone have success flashing these ESCs? Hobby King HK-SS60A: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22520

Thanks in advance.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 04:04 PM
hacker
Canada, BC, North Vancouver
Joined Dec 2010
936 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JR63 View Post
So, the bs.hex firmware should do the job.
I can't see your picture without registering to the forum you linked it to (clear your cookies and you will see what I see). Be sure to check that the "p" (high) side turns OFF when the logic output is low, or else you may need bs_nfet.hex instead (which has the high side inverted).

Quote:
Originally Posted by rc my life View Post
hi simonk
I use six fet n-channel
I do not use adc to indicate low battery
in addition to motor control, it does not add any task, it is only suitable for multirotor
Right. My code currently doesn't check the ADC so it does not add any task either , but I am thinking of adding some stuff for safety checks (like don't try to beep if the motor average voltage is not low -- eg, if somebody mixes up bs/bs_nfet). Also, it could still read the voltage before start and scale the start power accordingly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFernMan View Post
Can i get a confirmation that these Mysterys 30amps take bs.hex to flash
The database sheet doesn't contain these 30 amps and they look very much like the 30amp of Blueseries that have P/N fets
It's hard to tell from that picture...Those sense resistors are not the typical values for Mystery/BlueSeries. Maybe try identifying the ESC pin configuration or just test it on a current-limited supply so that it does not fry if it is wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by andi33 View Post
Do you mean the gates are not discharged fast enough? Then would help a resistor from gate to ground. Is there a schematic with gate resistors who can be used.?
There is a lot of noise when it happens, so it's hard to see what exactly is happening, but it seems like the gates get pulled down (on) a bit as the low side PWM turns on. It is not a problem unless the high side is still conducting through the FET body diode, which happens more easily at higher frequencies or when the motor is loaded. See quax' original schematic. Note that here they seem to be doing some strange thing with no base 10k resistor (but doing 10k pull-up instead of drive high at the ATmega8 makes things worse) and 330 Ohm instead of 680 Ohm. Maybe the problem is with the FET capacitance as its source drops down from above battery voltage? Some schottkies from each phase to +Vbat would also help and also increase efficiency.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 04:10 PM
hacker
Canada, BC, North Vancouver
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingdogfilms View Post
I'm just recently switched my Ecilop Quad to SimonK flashed Rctimer 30amp ESCs and have a question about overheating. Before flashing the esc would get warm but never really hot. They are now getting pretty steamy and I've only flown them in some very cool weather. Is this normal and is it safe? How hot is too hot? Also can the PID settings on my Multiwii baord affect how rapidly it heats up? I've got a decent little bird and I'd rather not see it fall out of the sky.
They should be able to get quite hot before you have any problems, but with the RCTimers you will see some oscillator drift with temperature (it will actually think you are requesting lower throttle), so I'd probably use something with an external oscillator and all-N instead. I haven't done enough destructive testing in real-world cases to know really where the limit is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DrEvil View Post
I have these two esc that are exactly alike, one Turnigy and one Aoxan.
In the database the are listed as SIL chip, but these are Atmega8.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kc10kevin View Post
Searched the entire thread and the spreadsheet. Anyone have success flashing these ESCs? Hobby King HK-SS60A: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22520
Hello! I don't have any of these, so I don't know. Maybe you could follow the guide and see if that helps? If not, let me know why.. You could also try the lazy / dangerous approach and guess, which I admit I do sometimes if I have a hunch, but only with a safe power supply.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 05:39 PM
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Joined Mar 2009
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Do the blacksheep esc have external occilators and all N?
http://team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:30aesc
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 07:01 PM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2012
131 Posts
hi simonk
Hope you will change the program so that it becomes more complete

most of the type esc has two cut off, the mode is

cut off when the battery is low

Cut off when the temperature increases (using resistor temperature changes)

You can change the type esc the use bs.nfet, bs.fet because it is prevalent

I will wait for the results. thank you
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 10:38 PM
Lt Col, USAF, Retired
United States, IL, Swansea
Joined Jan 2010
288 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by simonk View Post
Hello! I don't have any of these, so I don't know. Maybe you could follow the guide and see if that helps? If not, let me know why.. You could also try the lazy / dangerous approach and guess, which I admit I do sometimes if I have a hunch, but only with a safe power supply.
Thanks Simon. I'll give it try when I get back from the holidays.
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 03:51 AM
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Joined Nov 2012
217 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by simonk View Post
I can't see your picture without registering to the forum you linked it to (clear your cookies and you will see what I see). Be sure to check that the "p" (high) side turns OFF when the logic output is low, or else you may need bs_nfet.hex instead (which has the high side inverted).
Hi Simon,

thanks for the hint that the jpg is not shown, I put it in the attachment.

Since yesterday it is working perfect with the bs.hex file as I supposed after checking the PCB and finding the following connections:

ApFET PD4
AnFET PD5

BpFET PC5
BnFET PC4

CpFET PC3
CnFET PB0

mux_a ADC6
mux_b ADC7
mux_c ADC0

Many thanks Simon for the cool project.

Bye
JR63
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