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Old Oct 10, 2012, 12:27 AM
I = V/R
Tw34k's Avatar
United States, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Aug 2012
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I have recently attempted to load a HobbyKing 30 Amp RedBrick with the tgy.hex firmware using the KKFlashTool and after programming I proceed to test with no response at all. Upon attempting to reprogram the ESC again I now get

Error during reading of high fuse.
Flashing of firmware aborted.

Have I made some sort of mistake and loaded the wrong hex to the ATmega? I see no reference to my ESC in particular in the thread so I snaped a few poor shots with my cellphone and a magnifying ring light.




Any advise on what my next step should be would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys!
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 04:35 AM
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There is mention of that in this thread... someone said it was a clone of a different brand... I think it was tp.hex? do a search for redbrick...

Try THIS POST
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 11:30 AM
Fly like never crash as always
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Rio de Janeiro
Joined Mar 2007
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the blueseries40A behaved very differently from the F-20...

wobbles are introduced at much lower gain settings.

btw, I NEVER had a wobble with the F-20, not even at high gain.

fact is I also updated to the latest between changes.

now Iīm puzzled!
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 12:56 PM
I = V/R
Tw34k's Avatar
United States, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greebo View Post
There is mention of that in this thread... someone said it was a clone of a different brand... I think it was tp.hex? do a search for redbrick...

Try THIS POST
Thanks, So I did confirm that I have the dragonsky30A clones and should be using the tp.hex firmware. My main problem now is that this first one I programmed is now not letting me write to it anymore. I have been searching for solutions to the...

Error during reading of high fuse.
Flashing of firmware aborted.

..problem and have not been very successful. I have seen someone mention replacing the ATMega which I am capable of doing but would rather not if it's possible to unlock this fuse. Any pointers to where some of this info may be found would again be greatly appreciated.


Update: Not exactly sure what I did but I was eventually able to upload firmware to the esc again. Will post results later thanks again!
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Last edited by Tw34k; Oct 10, 2012 at 01:43 PM. Reason: update
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 01:58 PM
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Nobert's Avatar
Tucson Avra Valley, Arizona, United States
Joined Jul 2002
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I flashed RC Timer 50Amp Opto isolated ESC over the weekend. Before flashing both units worked with stock settings.After flashing, neither ESC will run motor. The motor just studders.
Any suggestions???
Thanks,
Neal
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 02:11 PM
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United States, FL, Miami
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobert View Post
I flashed RC Timer 50Amp Opto isolated ESC over the weekend. Before flashing both units worked with stock settings.After flashing, neither ESC will run motor. The motor just studders.
Any suggestions???
Thanks,
Neal
doesn't sound good... sounds like a bad esc now. what hex file did you use?
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 02:31 PM
hacker
Canada, BC, North Vancouver
Joined Dec 2010
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Originally Posted by Nobert View Post
I flashed RC Timer 50Amp Opto isolated ESC over the weekend. Before flashing both units worked with stock settings.After flashing, neither ESC will run motor. The motor just studders.
Hello! You used rct50a.hex? I just flashed 4 over the weekend, and they worked fine. Do they look exactly like this? As long as they didn't change anything, it should work...
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 02:35 PM
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Canada, BC, North Vancouver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tw34k View Post
Update: Not exactly sure what I did but I was eventually able to upload firmware to the esc again. Will post results later
So those are tp.hex, but since that board may have potentially weak high side FET drives, check carefully that they're not heating up rapidly under your expected use load, or they might fry themselves. Many of those boards have electrical problems that can only be worked around by using a lower PWM frequency (low enough that the current stops flowing before the PWM turns on again). Use tp_8khz.hex if you have this problem.
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 02:55 PM
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The Netherlands, NH, Bussum
Joined Feb 2012
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Hi guys,

Just recently I bought a few pre-flashed 30A ESC's from RCTimer and the difference was so noticable I thought I'd flash my other ESC's too. I've flashed a bunch of other stuff using a CRIUS USBASP and thought I had the pinouts clear so I made a new cable for doing the ESC's. But I can't get it working.

As soon as I touch the pins to the ESC the USBASP quits and cannot be found by avrdude anymore. The status light on the asp blinks when I touch the pins to the ESC but it doesnt talk to the USB port anymore. Unplugging the ASP and then pluggin it back in will reset it again, but that's as far as I can get.

Have I got something backward? All input is welcome, thanks people.

Cheers,
Rick

In the first pic I test the USBASP without touching the ESC to see if the driver is recognised. After that I touch the pins to the ESC and the ASP cannot be found anymore. I made the extra connector after the problem arose so I could easily swap the connections but everything seems to match up to spec and it still freezes the ASP.

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Old Oct 11, 2012, 01:02 AM
hacker
Canada, BC, North Vancouver
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Originally Posted by RHTizzy View Post
As soon as I touch the pins to the ESC the USBASP quits and cannot be found by avrdude anymore.
You are probably trying to flash an unpowered ESC. Depending on how sensitive your USB port is, and the ESR/size of the capacitor(s) on the ESC, it might just draw too much current when you first touch it, and bounce the USB port. If you power the ESC from a current-limited supply first, you should no longer see this.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 02:52 AM
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Canada, ON, Merrickville-Wolford
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Originally Posted by simonk View Post
...
If you power the ESC from a current-limited supply first, you should no longer see this.
Any suggestions on the next step up the "food chain" for a suitable power supply after the light bulb in series with a battery?

I'll be doing my f20's on the tricopter soon, and suspect that because all 3 are wired together the USB power might not be sufficient. I'd rather not have to unsolder the battery wires unless it's the only option.

cheers,
Andrew
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 09:32 AM
Fly like never crash as always
tascheri's Avatar
Rio de Janeiro
Joined Mar 2007
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you donīt have to unsolder your batt wires. Just make an extension with the bulb in series.

this is such a great tool, not only for flashing but for powering up your copter for the first time... For example the other day it saved my escs because I had switched the red and black wires to the battery plug... doh... light goes on... something wrong.

get your bulbs for free at the repair shops, they have 2 filaments but usually one burns out first.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Banjo5 View Post
Any suggestions on the next step up the "food chain" for a suitable power supply after the light bulb in series with a battery?

I'll be doing my f20's on the tricopter soon, and suspect that because all 3 are wired together the USB power might not be sufficient. I'd rather not have to unsolder the battery wires unless it's the only option.

cheers,
Andrew
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Tucson Avra Valley, Arizona, United States
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Simon

I did use the rct50a.hex? file. I'm using the HK pogo pin adapter.

Neal
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:33 AM
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IceWind's Avatar
Ireland, County Dublin, Dublin
Joined Feb 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobert View Post
Simon

I did use the rct50a.hex? file. I'm using the HK pogo pin adapter.

Neal
Could you share a link to it?
I've searched for pogo but got nothing in HK site.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:39 AM
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Canada, ON, Merrickville-Wolford
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Originally Posted by IceWind View Post
Could you share a link to it?
I've searched for pogo but got nothing in HK site.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=27195



I bought one, but haven't used it yet. Soon. Check for a buddy code, there were quite a few, although it's on Backorder right now it seems.

cheers,
Andrew
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