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Old Sep 17, 2012, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Mazar View Post
Thanks for answer!
What you think about relise time of updated firmware? How long it can be?
?
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 02:27 PM
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Calgary Canada
Joined Jun 2006
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I have a picture on my home computer that I found with the connections labeled... do you need it? if so I will post it tonight.

steve

Quote:
Originally Posted by whizz101 View Post
hi steve, do you knowthe pad layout?
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Canada, BC, North Vancouver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vikedal View Post
Can i use 3 hobbyking f-20A with simonk and 1 rctimer 20A with simonk on a quad?
It will probably work, but the RCTimer 20A will drift slightly with temperature and the F-20A will not.

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Originally Posted by whizz101 View Post
HI, i was looking for the pad layout for the f-40a? does anyone have it?
It's the same as the F-60A, which has a picture in the first post. You can check quickly with a continuity meter to see which end is which.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jy0933 View Post
since it's a general thread about flashing esc...

what if i have use kktool set fuse and flashed with simon.. and i want to try wii esc(cuz the motor got crazy hot but it is not supposed to be that hot..)... can I use usblink to upload wii esc or not?
Yup, I've been using the USB linker to flash back and forth from wii-esc. It works for everything that is small enough to leave the 512 words at the end for the boot loader, or else it stops once there's no boot loader left to receive more flash writes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by saabguyspg View Post
ok so from what I read it sounds like the boot loader is all in one with the BS.hex

now I am trying to figure out what fuses etc need to be set...

I don't mind reading but can someone post me a link to a recent tutorial? that would be awesome!
It's documented at the top of tgy.asm -- basically, you just need to set the lower nibble of the hfuse to "a". That expands out to BOOTSZ1 and BOOTRST being set, BOOTSZ0 cleared. On a board with an external oscillator, you can usually use something like avrdude -U lfuse:w:0x3f:m -U hfuse:w:0xca:m. On mac/Linux/BSD, "make bootload_usbasp" will change the fuse for you regardless of the board type, and LazyZero's KKmulticopter Flash Tool also has an option to enable the boot loader.

Regarding the update method, timecop made an update package and doc at http://www.abusemark.com/downloads/rapidesc_update.pdf . Some people may have problems because the USB port will not supply enough current to power the ESC (since it ends up charging up the capacitor instead of just powering the logic). I have no problems if I connect the servo wire, plug it in to USB, and then power up the ESC, but this is kind of pain when you want to do many of them. I'm still tossing around the idea of jumping to the boot loader if it detects being pulled high for a while when not driving the motor. This would allow updating many in a row without having to keep plugging/unplugging power. Right now, the boot loader only executes on power-up and only stays active so long as the servo pin is pulled high, so it won't work if the ESC is already powered before the USB linker is pulling high, such as if you power the ESC and _then_ plug it into USB, or if you plug it into USB, then into the ESC, causing an overcurrent on the port (OS dependent behaviour follows?), which causes it to not pull up the servo pin.

It would be nice have a circuit specifically for the ESCs we are trying to flash, rather than for 3.3V SuperBrain ESCs. A light resistor between the BEC wire and the servo pin would be enough to make it work regardless of plugging order.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 03:02 PM
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Calgary Canada
Joined Jun 2006
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thanks greatly Simon, I will read and learn

Steve
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 03:04 PM
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Canada, BC, North Vancouver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harpia View Post
I have 6 Maytech 30 Amp ESC and flashing the firmware bs_nfet.hex.
A friend bought 6 ESC Maytech Harrier-Suprem 40 Amp and I would also flashing for him, what is the appropriate firmware for Maytech 40 Amp?
I'm not sure, I have't seen it. It might be bs_nfet, or it might be something different, like bs40a or something else.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 03:25 PM
hacker
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Ok, way too many changes have accumulated without a release, so here is a FETkillerô testing/alpha release. I have NOT flight tested this yet, but it might be raining by the time I do.

git shortlog --no-merges d8f53c2c2..a77d1c339

Marcin Cieslak (6):
Remove suprious HTML from end of file
Add a simple BSDmakefile for testing
Add .obj files to .gitignore
Assembler can be overriden on the commandline
Replace .ifdefs with #ifdefs
Add explicit dependency on tgy.asm

Simon Kirby (38):
Beep periodically when RC signal is lost (patch from alsav).
Add support for ramp-up, pulsed (regenerative) braking.
Port missing Makefile targets to BSDmakefile.
Comment and typo fixes.
Simplify and optimize rcp_int by using OCR1B instead of tracking 24 bits.
Stop using 4 registers just to avoid 4 extra cycles in PWM interrupt, and implement optional complementary PWM.
Use TIFR.OCF1B instead of OCT1B_PENDING. No OCF1B interrupt required.
Support wider calibration range all the way from 0 to MAX_RC_PULS.
Use shorter RC timeout while armed (HK i86 workaround).
BSDmakefile should work now. Waiting on avra -i option so we can drop the symlink hack.
Build up start power to PWR_MAX_START more quickly.
Sync loss avoidance, comp PWM, ZC DC bias cancellation, adjustable timing advance, and startup and timeout improvements.
Halve ZC filter time when running at 8MHz.
Add tp_8khz target for "type 1" clones that blow up at >8kHz PWM.
Fix typo and prepare for merging with Makefile.
Move BSDmakefile over to Makefile.
Fix math rounding error when subi/sbci is used for adding a constant.
Don't accidentally turn off power for too long, and don't forget to track timing on wait_timeout.
Allow start duty to reach PWR_MAX_START again.
Don't wait for demagnetization during startup.
Match up the sync debug on the MOSI port with stock Mystery firmware.
Move ZC loop shifting to update_timing.
Calculate the needed motor timings when needed instead of in advance.
Move boot loader to boot.inc.
Don't halve ZC loop count on 8MHz MCUs -- the timing will already be half.
Fix powerskip regression since c09b6930b -- don't include carry in decrement.
Reduce the powerskipping timeout to twice the minimum required.
Macros for adiw/sbiw that allow any immediate. Allow <1kHz PWM again.
Calculate ZC check count on demand instead of in advance.
Remove unused TIMING_RUN.
Optimize update_timing and crash set_new_duty on the end.
Keep rc_timeout consistent when driving (no decay from RCP_TOT).
Optimize PWM halving.
Disable interrupts for a shorter period in set_ocr1a_abs.

..I removed some junk from the above, but there are lots of things that might break there, as you can see. Most people are waiting on this commit:

commit 0593fbf79a8205f04c8e52a7633ee84ad4c7a6be
Author: Simon Kirby <sim@netnation.com>
Date: Tue Sep 11 01:49:38 2012 -0700

Sync loss avoidance, comp PWM, ZC DC bias cancellation, adjustable timing
advance, and startup and timeout improvements.

Warning: This is a significant commit. I even broke a few FETs because of
some earlier bugs. Test carefully.

Complementary PWM is now supported, ala wii-esc. This has an interesting
effect of having the motor speed more closely and more quickly track the
duty cycle even without any active braking or closed-loop controlling.
Warning: It may break P/N (or other) boards.

Jumping from low to high _speed_ should no longer lose track of timing
because of excessive averaging. This caused problems in some cases even
without ZC tracking issues, such as with the NTM 28-26 1200KV.

Jumping from low to high duty cycle that results in a demagnetization
period that exceeds the blanking window will now be tracked and if
excessive (approaching 30 degrees), PWM will be stopped 30 -
MOTOR_ADVANCE degrees in order to avoid blinding the ZC in the next
commutation. This should (in theory) be smoother than the wii-esc
approach of jumping forward, as the power will only be cut for about 15
degrees. This should solve problems with the expensive and/or pancake
motors that have higher inductance and lower winding resistance such as
the RCTigerMotor MT-3506. Thank you to ziss_dm for the ideas, discussion,
and awesome LTSpice simulation!

Jumping from run to brake to run again (or run to RC timeout to run)
while the motor is spinning quickly will no longer cause sync loss due
to excessive ZC filter length and/or blanking periods. Instead, we look
briefly without power to see if the motor is spinning and align to it
before inducing any demagnetization current or PWM noise.

Starting NTM 28-30 750KV motors should no longer squeal in some cases.
This was a bug where zc_filter_time was not being set during starting.
The long blanking period is instead taken care of by the ZC filtering.

DC bias is now cancelled from the commutation timing. This might help
at very low speeds, but it's probably not that useful.

Timers are now set to absolute values precalculated by update_timing.
This avoids skew from processing overhead. There is still a little bit of
skew from the ZC filtering, but I don't see any way around this. Also,
boards with larger sense filtering capacitors such as the F-30A line will
have slightly droopy timing as RPM increases, but this should not be a
big deal. MOTOR_ADVANCE has changed from 15 to 18 degrees, which looks
almost perfect on the 'scope for everything I have tried with.

Let me know how it goes! I won't upload it to github downloads until I get some good feedback and I actually do flight test it.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 04:49 PM
kitesurfer
United Kingdom, Blackpool
Joined Dec 2005
1,587 Posts
how about the AC2836-358 motors? anyone tested?
http://www.buildyourowndrone.co.uk/8...p/mot-88kv.htm

thanks for your work simon
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 06:51 PM
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Joined Aug 2012
156 Posts
yes that would be ace... thanks
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 08:24 PM
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jsmith285's Avatar
Fort Wayne
Joined Feb 2009
4,731 Posts
Just tested HK Blue 30 amps simonized on the quad.
Night and day difference from the Turnigy Plush I was running, non Simonized.

Thanks great thread.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 10:20 PM
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Canada, BC, Nanaimo
Joined Sep 2012
13 Posts
Greetings from Nanaimo, B.C.

Sorry if I am thread jumping here, but I have just read about 200 of the posts and I am just so confused I cant describe it.
questions:
How do I know what firmware I should use?
Mystery 20a N-Fet
do I need to do any hardware modifications at all?
I plan to use my HK USBasp and HK Atmel Atmega Socket Firmware Flashing Tool


what software should I use? all FETs are F7832 as far as my weak eyes can tell.

Thanx in advance!
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 10:32 PM
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Canada, ON, Merrickville-Wolford
Joined Jun 2012
835 Posts
Doa f-20a

I'm sorry that this is a little off-topic ... connected (perhaps tangentially) only because next steps would be flashing these things. I've been following this topic for a long time and it seems that there's an immense cache of ESC expertise here.

I'm slowly working towards getting my first tri-copter going. Finally got all the F20 speed controllers soldered in and did a first test. Two of three worked fine, one doesn't. The motor just vibrates. I tried a different motor, same thing. Tested the motor on a different ESC and it works fine, so I'm thinking it's the ESC that's bad.

A shakey cell phone video showing the problem is here
HobbyKing F-20A Speed Controller Problem (0 min 51 sec)


Suggestions on what to do next would be gratefully appreciated. Is it worth trying an return with HK? I do have a spare that I'll solder in tomorrow. PITA.

Thanks in advance.

cheers,
Andrew
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 10:55 PM
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United States, FL, Miami
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale.E View Post
Greetings from Nanaimo, B.C.

Sorry if I am thread jumping here, but I have just read about 200 of the posts and I am just so confused I cant describe it.
questions:
How do I know what firmware I should use?
Mystery 20a N-Fet
do I need to do any hardware modifications at all?
I plan to use my HK USBasp and HK Atmel Atmega Socket Firmware Flashing Tool


what software should I use? all FETs are F7832 as far as my weak eyes can tell.

Thanx in advance!
On the first post. Download and use kkflashtool from lazyzero

Check this list made by TomSn0w of all compatible ESCs with their specs and appropriate firmware file. Thanks a lot for this!
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 10:58 PM
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United States, FL, Miami
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banjo5 View Post
I'm sorry that this is a little off-topic ... connected (perhaps tangentially) only because next steps would be flashing these things. I've been following this topic for a long time and it seems that there's an immense cache of ESC expertise here.

I'm slowly working towards getting my first tri-copter going. Finally got all the F20 speed controllers soldered in and did a first test. Two of three worked fine, one doesn't. The motor just vibrates. I tried a different motor, same thing. Tested the motor on a different ESC and it works fine, so I'm thinking it's the ESC that's bad.

A shakey cell phone video showing the problem is here http://youtu.be/FM9GJV60TMs

Suggestions on what to do next would be gratefully appreciated. Is it worth trying an return with HK? I do have a spare that I'll solder in tomorrow. PITA.

Thanks in advance.

cheers,
Andrew
Looks like a bad fet. Looks like something one of my ESC was doing when I shorted it out. Swap the ESC out.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 01:22 AM
hacker
Canada, BC, North Vancouver
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale.E View Post
Greetings from Nanaimo, B.C.

Mystery 20a N-Fet
do I need to do any hardware modifications at all?
Hello No hardware mods, just need to verify that it _does_ have all of the same FETs on the FET side. They are known to be a mix of P/N or all-N even if you buy them at the same, so check each one. It will be bs_nfet.hex (or bs.hex if it's P/N). See https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...jU1YzdBQkZZRlE

Quote:
Originally Posted by Banjo5 View Post
Finally got all the F20 speed controllers soldered in and did a first test. Two of three worked fine, one doesn't. The motor just vibrates.
Yeah, either the wires aren't connecting properly, a FET is bad, or something is wrong with the circuitry. Since you haven't flashed it, you could try returning it.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 03:11 AM
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Joined Sep 2012
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http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=24717

this ESC are not in list, maybe not updated? Or it dosnt compatible with Simon firmware? Thanks
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