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Old Nov 07, 2011, 08:26 AM
zis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop View Post
fuses: intrc, the rest = common sense.
Please give the command of the form:
avrdude -c usbasp -p m8 -U flash:w:tgy.hex
avrdude -c usbasp -p m8 -U lfuse:w:0x84:m
avrdude -c usbasp -p m8 -U hfuse:w:0xd9:m
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Old Nov 07, 2011, 08:33 AM
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Install avrstudio or use any of the online fuse calculators. Pretty sure the numbers you just pasted above already do intrc.
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Old Nov 07, 2011, 09:25 AM
zis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop View Post
Install avrstudio or use any of the online fuse calculators. Pretty sure the numbers you just pasted above already do intrc.
The file read tgy.asm:
;-- Fuses -----------------------------------------------------------------
;
; Old fuses for internal RC oscillator at 8 MHz were lfuse=0xa4 hfuse=0xdf,
; but since we now set OSCCAL to actually run at about 16 MHz, we'd better
; set brown-out detection to 4.0V. This code should work without changes on
; boards with external 16MHz crystals / resonators; just set lfuse=0x3f.
;
; Suggested fuses with 4.0V brown-out voltage:
; Without external crystal: avrdude -U lfuse:w:0x24:m -U hfuse:w:0xd7:m
; With external crystal: avrdude -U lfuse:w:0x3f:m -U hfuse:w:0xd7:m
;
; Testing fuses with 2.7V brown-out voltage (unsafe at 16MHz):
; Without external crystal: avrdude -U lfuse:w:0xa4:m -U hfuse:w:0xd7:m
; With external crystal: avrdude -U lfuse:w:0xbf:m -U hfuse:w:0xd7:m
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Old Nov 07, 2011, 03:25 PM
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Joined Jul 2011
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multiwii

Im building a multiwii and plan to use flashed esc I need to know if I set //#define MINTHROTTLE to 1000 for min throttle command sent to esc? tjat is min for these?
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Old Nov 07, 2011, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop View Post
Ah, well who knows then. It could be a clone of mystery blue, some of them have pads in odd places like that. Without a meter its going to be fairly difficult to tell. Also looking at the FETs on the back could be helpful - whether its all-N or P/N design. I think this firmware supports only one variant of all-N, the mystery blue + clones.
Hi TC, sorry for being clueless. How do you tell if its -N or P/N design FETs? Weird how I unwraped one of my ESC and it was different than the other 5. There s no copper pads on the front where the atmega8 chip is. its the one on the first pix. The little chip labeled like this if it makes any sense to you

FR37092
IOR P024J
S5 J8

The normal one reads
LR8726
IOR p045D
V6 K0

Any ideas? Thanks
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Old Nov 07, 2011, 10:13 PM
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Anyone knows which one of these will work? Thanks

RCTIMER Programmable 40A v2
http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo...0&productname=

and

RCTimer ESC 30A Brushless Motor Speed Controller Hobbywing's Program
http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo...6&productname=

what about this?

RC Hobbies ESC 50A Brushless Motor Speed Controller
http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo...1&productname=
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Old Nov 07, 2011, 10:25 PM
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RCTimer 30A should be good, using standard turnigy pinout.
The 2 opened escs above look like all-nfet, so you *should* be ok trying with the bs-nfet.inc settings. Do try it with current limiter (lightbulb in series) first. Can't comment on the other 2.
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop View Post
RCTimer 30A should be good, using standard turnigy pinout.
The 2 opened escs above look like all-nfet, so you *should* be ok trying with the bs-nfet.inc settings. Do try it with current limiter (lightbulb in series) first. Can't comment on the other 2.
Thanks for the help.i just ordered some rct40a v2 just to see if they works.if they dont i ll put them on my fpv y6 and get some rct 30a.i will report back when i got them
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 03:09 AM
hacker
Canada, BC, North Vancouver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demonova View Post
Im building a multiwii and plan to use flashed esc I need to know if I set //#define MINTHROTTLE to 1000 for min throttle command sent to esc? tjat is min for these?
Hello! See the top of tgy.asm in the source. The default for non-reversing mode is to start at 1060us, which is just above 1000us but leaves some room for clocking differences. You can adjust the pulses to anything you'd like! Just beware that the PWM frequency is a direct result of the difference between maximum throttle and minimum throttle. It starts to become audible at around a difference of 900-1000us, and a range of 2000us (double normal) will bring it back to the normal 8kHz PWM range. (It does this during start-up by doubling the timing -- search for "Halve PWM frequency".) Anyway, I would say just try it first, adjust if necessary. I will also add stick-high, stick-low style calibration shortly.

Btw, I just tested http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=16892 ... It seems to be a Mystery/BlueSeries pinout with non-inverted all-nFETs, gate drivers, and it shipped with unlocked firmware. The "bs" target works fine. It still is pretty easy to cause brown-out resets with current spikes, however. Avoiding this still seems to be a Mystery.
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 10:03 AM
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I wanted to fly my new quad with its original firmware first then use the new firmware to fully appreciate how much better it flies.... so I soldered on a header that will be accessible through the heat shrink so I can program it whilst they're in situ. Will also allow me to uploaded more recent firmware in the future:



But does anyone think this is asking for trouble? Is hot glue conductive? The connector is hot glued on top of the atmega - does this get hot? Will the wires wear out and short with the arms vibration? Need to know if this is a bad idea before I do the other 3 :P

Ben.
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ben123 View Post

But does anyone think this is asking for trouble? Is hot glue conductive? The connector is hot glued on top of the atmega - does this get hot? Will the wires wear out and short with the arms vibration? Need to know if this is a bad idea before I do the other 3 :P

Ben.
Ben, I like this idea and may give it is try myself. However, I would not use hot glue because the ESC can get relative hot at times. I would assume the shrink tubing would be sufficient to hold the connector in place.
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 11:19 AM
Droner
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Denmark, Capital Region of Denmark, CPH
Joined Mar 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben123 View Post
I wanted to fly my new quad with its original firmware first then use the new firmware to fully appreciate how much better it flies.... so I soldered on a header that will be accessible through the heat shrink so I can program it whilst they're in situ. Will also allow me to uploaded more recent firmware in the future:



But does anyone think this is asking for trouble? Is hot glue conductive? The connector is hot glued on top of the atmega - does this get hot? Will the wires wear out and short with the arms vibration? Need to know if this is a bad idea before I do the other 3 :P

Ben.
Does anyone know what the 3 pads next to the Gnd, 5V and signal is?
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 01:04 PM
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Bas10an
They are +5V, Gnd and sig. At least they are on mine. Double check with ohm meter.
Neal
PS: Why would some one in Denmark know about Pabst Blue Ribbon beer??
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Nobert View Post
PS: Why would some one in Denmark know about Pabst Blue Ribbon beer??
Blue Velvet Pabst Blue Ribbon (0 min 8 sec)


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Old Nov 08, 2011, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rimshotcopter View Post
Ben, I like this idea and may give it is try myself. However, I would not use hot glue because the ESC can get relative hot at times. I would assume the shrink tubing would be sufficient to hold the connector in place.
Ah! Good point! I'll peel it off and hold the connector in place whilst the heatshrink shrinks. Thanks!

Ben.
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