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Old Jan 20, 2012, 07:21 PM
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Canada, BC, North Vancouver
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Originally Posted by firepong View Post
Anyone have a assembled version of tgy.hex with RC_PULS_REVERSE and MOTOR_BRAKE set to active? Was going to flash it to 2 of my ESC to try out on my rock crawler
Hey, I've used the Hobbywing 60A in rock crawler mode in my car, and recently compared with the AfroESC flashed with RC_PULS_REVERSE=1 and MOTOR_BRAKE=1. It worked but the brake was so strong that it just killed the tires (and it was hard to drive as a result). Depending on the motor, etc., it probably makes more sense to implement pulsed braking again first. I was going to do this, after a few other things.

Also, is it common for RC car radios to have the thumb brake these days? Mine sends a really short pulse with that pressed (~800Ás) -- it might be nice to support harder braking on that and not actually transition to reverse. Also, drag brake is useful (light pulsed brake when in idle throttle). The only other thing is that the adjustable start power is probably fairly important. I think a 25% duty limit to start is probably a bit low in some applications, depending on gearing, etc. It's still pretty easy to slip the differential in my RC10, though. Yours is probably geared a lot more?
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 07:34 PM
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Canada, BC, North Vancouver
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Originally Posted by alll View Post
No, this was only for info / test. I read (via avrstudio MKII (8MHz selection in the dropdown)) the stored osccal values of each esc.
And without calibration they start in the order "oscall lowest first".
After calibration, they start exactly all on thesame time.
Cool. Yes, it should be quite precise. MAX_DRIFT_PULS is how far each received pulse can be away from the starting pulse before the data is thrown out and it starts over. However, the KK and Plush combined were quite jittery, so it would occasionally start on a point already offset by jitter one way, then jitter the other way. The averaging gets rid of the jitter from the calibrated values, but we also need to be sure to detect a moving throttle properly. The latest code (not yet uploaded) allows twice the drift in either direction, and also waits 240ms before starting to relearn if that is detected, so as to try to not catch the end of a stick move. Seems to work fine.

As for wiring LEDs to the motor phases, I just cut up some LED strip into 3 pieces (beware, I had to throw some out since I got a bit overzealous and cut off some needed traces), then ran each strip to each phase pair of the motor (A-B, B-C, A-C). It's cool because you can actually see the startup/driving of the motor as the LEDs walk while it starts. There are actually 6 states for each phase pairing, positive and negative, so you could actually do it with 6 strips. Or just put one on to any two wires - it will work. I actually did this first because 3S directly was just too bright, and this is far cooler. No light means free fall. The only downside is way too many wires. Note that the LEDs still need to have current limiting (like the resistors on the LED strips).
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 07:44 PM
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United States, AR, Jonesboro
Joined May 2011
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Originally Posted by simonk View Post
Hey, I've used the Hobbywing 60A in rock crawler mode in my car, and recently compared with the AfroESC flashed with RC_PULS_REVERSE=1 and MOTOR_BRAKE=1. It worked but the brake was so strong that it just killed the tires (and it was hard to drive as a result). Depending on the motor, etc., it probably makes more sense to implement pulsed braking again first. I was going to do this, after a few other things.

Also, is it common for RC car radios to have the thumb brake these days? Mine sends a really short pulse with that pressed (~800Ás) -- it might be nice to support harder braking on that and not actually transition to reverse. Also, drag brake is useful (light pulsed brake when in idle throttle). The only other thing is that the adjustable start power is probably fairly important. I think a 25% duty limit to start is probably a bit low in some applications, depending on gearing, etc. It's still pretty easy to slip the differential in my RC10, though. Yours is probably geared a lot more?
Well, on my rock crawler, its like the RC10, but instead of 1 motor for both front and back, I have a motor on the front and a motor on the back. I believe its a 520 sized brushed at the moment that's running at 1200kV with 21t gear. Going to up that to a 1500kV sized equivalent to the brushed to make it a little quicker in long stretches as I do have a FPV setup on it

Anyways, you have a file with at least the RC_PULS_REVERSE enabled? I tried and I can't seem to get the darned thing to compile

P.S. I do have your stock custom firmware installed on 2 of my ESC in a brushless tank, but it works out good because it's a dual brushless setup as well with a motor for each track and I just jam the speed up on one of the tracks to turn the sucker around
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Cossacs View Post
Yes, 4s, here is video, going full throttle on 0:13
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2rag_rQnsM
I've pulled one dedicated motor much harder before in static with no problems. 8cm wire length from ESC to battery should not be a problem. But long Battery-ESC wire length in combination with -5c outside temperature (increased capacitor impedance) and really hard setup (3x2820/14 Pulso 140 gramm motors per each 4s 5000 30C battery) and low input capacitor (only 440uF per ESC) could be a problem, how do you think?

I have not tried wii-esc code yet because i do not exactly know why i never seen such problem with one motor only.

Which input PWM refresh rate you recommend to use? Does it really matter?

Thanks
Sorry, forgetting if I replied or not, but I definitely have seen this problem before and can reproduce it quite easily. Not sure why it only happens on one motor for you, but the timing missing sounds exactly the same. Heiko on the multiwii forums was having similar problems with the MT3506 on 4S and many stock ESCs, which is why he was trying to find alternative code for them.

What is actually at fault is a bit difficult to prove. Some software tweaking can definitely make the situation better or worse. The wii-esc tree, in my last testing, did not miss at all (or recovered quickly) in the case that was missing on my tree on the F-30A, but which was fine on the Plush 18A. I would really suggest trying the wii-esc tree and see how it behaves. You can read around here, and a bit further: http://www.multiwii.com/forum/viewto...=516&start=160 ...You'll probably have to copy over and fix up the .inc file for your Mystery 40A, of course. Now that some more F-30As have arrived (and some other MT motors), I will try to see what the situation is again.

Refresh rate does not really matter, imho.
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 07:55 PM
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Canada, BC, North Vancouver
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Originally Posted by firepong View Post
Anyways, you have a file with at least the RC_PULS_REVERSE enabled? I tried and I can't seem to get the darned thing to compile
Here is git HEAD tgy.hex (you want that target, right?) with RC_PULS_REVERSE enabled. In return, can you tell me what the error is when you try to build it? It'd be nice to fix that.
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 08:19 PM
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Berlin, Germany
Joined Aug 2005
7 Posts
Hi,
first of all: thanks for this great piece of software. Flashed it to 4 Turnigy Plush 18A on my Multiwii Quad. Works like a charm, even though the one whose BEC i use tends drift a bit, possibly due to internal oscillator and warming.

I am going to try to add 16Mhz resonators. Am I right that all i have to do after installing the resonator is changing the fuses to external resonator?

Do you consider to make use of the external (e.g. Turnigy) prgramming card many of us have? Would be great to change brake/forward-backward-mode/motor-direction without compiling or at least re-flashig the firmware!

As i was browsing through my accumulated ESCs I thought it might be helpfull if I added pictures and information here, so TomSn0w could add them to his list.

Turnigy Plush 18A ver. 3.1
PCB Version:HW1 8V3.1
MCU: ATmega
Pads: yes
Pads in Row: yes
Ext. Osc.: no
FET: P/N

Turborix 18A
PCB is almost identical to Turnigy Plush 18A
MCU: ATmega
Pads: yes
Pads in Row: yes
Ext. Osc.: no
FET: P/N

TowerPro H40A
MCU: ATmega
Pads: no
Ext. Osc.: no
FET: no idea

Unknown, probably older HK SS 15A
MCU: ATmega
Pads: no
Ext. Osc.: yes, 16Mhz
FET: P/N
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Last edited by hrebel; Jan 20, 2012 at 09:35 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 08:49 PM
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United States, AR, Jonesboro
Joined May 2011
394 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by simonk View Post
Here is git HEAD tgy.hex (you want that target, right?) with RC_PULS_REVERSE enabled. In return, can you tell me what the error is when you try to build it? It'd be nice to fix that.
Sure, I know its something simple and I could do it on a linux box, but I don't have one anymore, and they don't have a binary for avra 1.3, and just using what I have installed, it gives me this:

Code:
C:\Users\Kelley\Downloads\Compressed\tgy_2012-01-04_d8a3f89>make
avra --define tgy_esc tgy.asm
process_begin: CreateProcess(NULL, avra --define tgy_esc tgy.asm, ...) failed.
make (e=2): The system cannot find the file specified.
make: *** [tgy.hex] Error 2
I'll make a virtual box sooner or later so that I don't have to around with windows and trying to rig shiz up for it.

P.S. There was a make clean before all that to get rid of the previous .hex files then I did make, and I get that lol
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 08:53 PM
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Canada, BC, North Vancouver
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Originally Posted by hrebel View Post
I am going to try to add 16Mhz resonators. Am I right that all i have to do after installing the resonator is changing the fuses to external resonator?
Yup!
Quote:
Originally Posted by hrebel View Post
do you consider to make use of the external (e.g. Turnigy) prgramming card many of us have? Would be great to change brake/forward-backward-mode/motor-direction without compiling or at least re-flashig the firmware!
I was going to try this, when I get a chance. There is already code to talk from the "host" end, so it shouldn't be hard to reproduce a "client".

Thanks for the pictures and info!
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 08:56 PM
hacker
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Originally Posted by firepong View Post
Sure, I know its something simple and I could do it on a linux box, but I don't have one anymore, and they don't have a binary for avra 1.3, and just using what I have installed
Yeah, it needs avra 1.3 since older versions don't let you use the same #ifdef versus .ifdef type syntax, and then I can't make a version compatible with avrasm. I thought you were using AVR Studio. You might just want to try that. If anybody knows how to make easy build knobs in AVR Studio, patches welcome! Or just send me the APS file or whatever..
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 10:16 PM
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Nevada, USA
Joined Sep 2007
1,921 Posts
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Originally Posted by chatch15117 View Post
So for us programming challenged individuals and just to clarify, this tool will take the place of AVRDUDE? just download and unzip and your ready to program?

pretty cool!
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 11:06 PM
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Joined Feb 2005
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I had my maiden flight of my Naza quad at indoor flying tonight. I am using RCTimer 30a escs. It really is quiet, just the props making most of the noise. The motors and escs were not even warm after the first flight. I like it when a plan comes together...thanks Simon, you rock!

DJI Naza Quad Maiden Flight (2 min 23 sec)
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 11:55 PM
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S.E.Michigan
Joined Jul 2010
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Buffy, that thing is solid. The on-board video at times looked like it was on a tri-pod.

Outstanding, congrats. Which motors and controller??

Pat
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 12:34 AM
If it flies, I will crash it
mxspode's Avatar
USA, CO, Westminster
Joined Jan 2008
3,039 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop View Post
What is the possibility? Zero. There's nothing to clip on the MLF package.
Nada, zip.
Hope I didn't sound like I thought it "was" possible. I pretty much knew the answer before I asked but just in case there was another option I figured I would check. I have soldered magnet wire to pins on TQFP chips before but the MLF package would be near impossible for me. I will have to do some looking for something to make Manu's programming sockets with and give that a go.

Thanks TC,
Rob...
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 02:33 AM
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United States, WA, Bellingham
Joined Apr 2001
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OK, so I decided to try my hand at flashing one of my proton 30 esc's from HobbyParts, board looks identical to the hobbywing 25 at the beginning of this thread. I'm going to build up a large T-copter and will use these escs. Anyway, I couldn't make Chatch's flashtool work;

Quote:
avrdude.exe: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude.exe: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

avrdude.exe: Device signature = 0x1e9307
avrdude.exe: current erase-rewrite cycle count is -50462977 (if being tracked)

avrdude.exe: safemode: Fuses OK

avrdude.exe done. Thank you.
I triple checked my wiring, seemed OK, I have extreme burner installed so I opened it and read the stock firmware... that worked OK. So I downloaded the hex file and tried burning it with extreme burner. Seemed to work OK, and it does run.

first runup of SimonK TGY firmware for HobbyWing ESC (0 min 44 sec)
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Old Jan 21, 2012, 02:42 AM
Suspended Account
United States, FL, Maitland
Joined Apr 2011
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sorry art newland I forgot -U in avrdude. it is fixed now. i really messed up

http://tunerspotter.com/escfirmware/flashtool.zip

this will work

Quote:
Originally Posted by capt View Post
So for us programming challenged individuals and just to clarify, this tool will take the place of AVRDUDE? just download and unzip and your ready to program?

pretty cool!
no it's just a GUI interface that uses avrdude. It builds the avrdude command string piece by piece when you select what programmer/esc you have.
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