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Old Nov 03, 2011, 02:20 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
6,502 Posts
Cloth orientation for mould.

Dave, Adam et.al.

Should I alternate the fibre orientation of the cloth when constructing my wing moulds?
I have just started. I've done the surface coat and layed up a veil and one layer of 185gsm 4HS cloth.

Jim.
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Old Nov 03, 2011, 03:28 AM
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Shaper Dave's Avatar
Oahu Hawaii
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I always go 45 deg. on my fuse molds then cap with 0-90. On the wing mold I just used straight 0-90 with no splicing of layers to remove any hard spots on the mold from overlapping pieces. This can wobble the mold face.

My trays are bonded to the work bench for curing. Even if I get a little twist its no problem because the mold can flex a bit.

Dave
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Old Nov 03, 2011, 10:29 AM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
6,915 Posts
I would definitely put both 0/90 and +/-45 orientations in the wing mold. Composite structures that have fiber only on 0/90 will very often develop a twist. Structures that have only have +/-45 often develop cups and bows. H8 fabrics are really prone to developing twists if the fibers are only on 0/90. I did a whole round to test samples that where simple laminates and some that were sandwiches. I learned that fibers are needed in all 4 primary orientations for stability, but it doesn't take very much fiber to create stability.
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Old Nov 03, 2011, 04:51 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
6,502 Posts
I consideration of both points of view from two very experienced operators I will choose to be cautious and go for Adams recommendation, to be sure, to be sure. Even though I will be using a RHS steel frame around the perimeter.

I will be continuing to layup my first half today! Great to get it moving again after a long delay.

Thanks guys.

Jim.
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 12:24 AM
Much to my CHAGRIN . . .
machild's Avatar
Bellflower, CA
Joined Mar 2005
462 Posts
Not to be an alarmist, but has anyone heard from Dave lately? Contact info I have for him seems to no longer be valid. Hoping everything's OK . . .

MC
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Old Jan 23, 2012, 03:19 AM
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Oahu Hawaii
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Im around! Just got to have the right #'s. There hasn't been much happening on the DLG Group lately so I've been laying low. Hoping something good gets posted one of these days.

I spent 3 hours today after flying, grinding on the new center section mold for my P5 Thermal ship. Turned out very nice I must say. Starting on the out board tips this coming week. All molds should be done in two weeks so I can finally start working on new Ghost and P5's. Yeah!

Dave
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 03:51 AM
UAS Test Pilot
SpeedMaster's Avatar
Norway
Joined Jul 2003
1,125 Posts
Dave:

Keep it comming. I`m enjoying this thread very much!

You can find some building tips for the P5 on my blog: www.ksjohansen.blogspot.com. Also look up the "Sniper F3B" thread, lots of good info there.

Kjell.
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 07:25 AM
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Dave:

Me, too!

My Legend continues faithfully on, but is getting long in the tooth.

Yours, Greg
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 09:34 AM
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United States, CA, Tehachapi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaper Dave View Post
Im around! Just got to have the right #'s. There hasn't been much happening on the DLG Group lately so I've been laying low. Hoping something good gets posted one of these days.

I spent 3 hours today after flying, grinding on the new center section mold for my P5 Thermal ship. Turned out very nice I must say. Starting on the out board tips this coming week. All molds should be done in two weeks so I can finally start working on new Ghost and P5's. Yeah!

Dave
Those look thin! You don't have any problems with the molds warping?

BMW

Edit: Never mind. I just read the rest of the thread, including where you described your method of mold construction and reasoning behind it. Excellent work!
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Old Jan 24, 2012, 09:45 PM
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Shaper Dave's Avatar
Oahu Hawaii
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Thought you guys might like to see the wing tips. Today I have just waxed the surfaces and ready to clay the edges.
I have learned that only 5 coats of my wax is plenty instead of the old standard of 10 coats. My use of the PVA mist coats has an ideal release with the wax. My last 3 molds has proven the technique. All that is needed is a matt finish not a full blown barrier of PVA. This really saves time on waxing. However, this is my technique and if you try it please do a small test piece first. I sand my mold surfaces with 1000 grt. then polish.

Dave
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Old Jan 25, 2012, 06:07 AM
Chuck 'Em and Chase 'Em
Fly2High's Avatar
United States, NY, Plainview
Joined Aug 2005
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Dave,
I know for a fact that my car doesn't have as smooth a finish as your molds! Everytime I see photos of your work, all i can say is ,'gorgeous'!!

Frank
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 02:26 AM
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Shaper Dave's Avatar
Oahu Hawaii
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Thanks Frank,

The molds are underway today with the surface coats on. No need for me to do any follow up shots as its been covered earlier.

Next time I post any pictures it will be of finished models!

Dave
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 07:33 AM
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Dave:

And... The world awaits!

You may entice me into flying larger models.

Yours, Greg
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Old Jan 26, 2012, 07:48 AM
Chuck 'Em and Chase 'Em
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Quick Dave, show him the DLG molds!!! We can still save him!!!!!!

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Old Jan 27, 2012, 05:23 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
6,502 Posts
Product description.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaper Dave View Post
Jim,

The primer I use is called Duratec which is a polyester based filler. I can take it from rough filler to full polish with no need to paint.
Great stuff.

Dave
Dave,
I am about to order some Duratec. However, I just looked at the website :
http://www.duratec1.com/Application_Guides/ag13.pdf
and it seems there are several products under that brand name, with primers, primer/surfacers, finish coats and so on...... So I am just checking, which one is the product that you use please?

The information on the site is slightly confusing, as on one page they do describe a one product application which seems to be the one you use.
http://www.duratec1.com/dp04.html
I just want to make absolutely sure before I invest in 1 gallon, which is the only quantity I can buy.

Jim.
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