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Old Jan 17, 2012, 04:54 PM
Team Mulikow 3D
Oxfordshire, UK
Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by Dr.M View Post
That servo should work fine with the Tarot.

However, be aware that brushless servo motors can have huge current spikes. If you're running an integrated ESC with BEC (3-5 Amps) the current spikes may overwhelm your BEC causing your receiver voltage to drop substantially. Your Rx and/or gyro may reset and you'll have no control for 3-5 seconds. Your BEC may also burn out.

I've tested the low voltage tolerance of my 3x1000 and it tends to stop working properly below 4.6V and completely shuts down at 4.5V.
On Beastx's people using high draw servos tend to use a separate power bar or regulator - the FBL units often won't pass enough current through them to power high-draw servos - this is usually on 700s etc.
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Old Jan 17, 2012, 05:17 PM
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United States, CA, Rancho Cordova
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.M View Post
That servo should work fine with the Tarot.

However, be aware that brushless servo motors can have huge current spikes. If you're running an integrated ESC with BEC (3-5 Amps) the current spikes may overwhelm your BEC causing your receiver voltage to drop substantially. Your Rx and/or gyro may reset and you'll have no control for 3-5 seconds. Your BEC may also burn out.

I've tested the low voltage tolerance of my 3x1000 and it tends to stop working properly below 4.6V and completely shuts down at 4.5V.
No control for 3-5 seconds? Thats ok, I'll just fly a lot higher
Thanks for the reply. Would you please check out this BEC I ordered and see if you think its big enough?
http://www.xheli.com/07e32-exceedrc-ubec-5a-v1.html
Thanks
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Old Jan 17, 2012, 06:10 PM
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United States, WA, Issaquah
Joined May 2011
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Originally Posted by barnstorm100 View Post
No control for 3-5 seconds? Thats ok, I'll just fly a lot higher
Thanks for the reply. Would you please check out this BEC I ordered and see if you think its big enough?
http://www.xheli.com/07e32-exceedrc-ubec-5a-v1.html
Thanks
I have not flown those myself, but looking at the specs I think you'll be fine:

Quote:
Originally Posted by from XHELI link above
1.2 Continuous output current: 5 Amps
1.3 Burst output current: 7.5 Amps
The BLS251 can draw 3A+ when stalled or when suddenly reversing direction, if your cyclic servos' stall current is less than 1.3-1.4A it means your BEC could potentially handle the unlikely situation where all your servos are drawing max Amps.
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Old Jan 17, 2012, 06:59 PM
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United States, CA, Rancho Cordova
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.M View Post
I have not flown those myself, but looking at the specs I think you'll be fine:



The BLS251 can draw 3A+ when stalled or when suddenly reversing direction, if your cyclic servos' stall current is less than 1.3-1.4A it means your BEC could potentially handle the unlikely situation where all your servos are drawing max Amps.
Thank you.
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Old Jan 17, 2012, 10:01 PM
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United States, MD
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Originally Posted by barnstorm100 View Post
I'm putting a Futaba BLS251 with ZYX on a 500 Tarot. Is anybody else using this? The instructions with the servo say to only use a Futaba gyro. Does anybody see a problem?. It also says to use only a ni-cad battery
Hey Barnstorm,

I think Futaba BLS251 tail servo is a 760u center like my MKS 8910. That is what it says on Spartan servo spec page. The Tarot has a setting which will work with it. That would be the reason Futaba said it was for a GY520 but not GY401 gyro which has no 760u setting, only 1520u

Here is the Spartan link: http://www.spartan-rc.com/resources/servodb/servo.php

That table is pretty helpful. The 760u servos seem to score highest.

Terry
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Old Jan 17, 2012, 11:26 PM
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United States, CA, Rancho Cordova
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Originally Posted by exblade View Post
Hey Barnstorm,

I think Futaba BLS251 tail servo is a 760u center like my MKS 8910. That is what it says on Spartan servo spec page. The Tarot has a setting which will work with it. That would be the reason Futaba said it was for a GY520 but not GY401 gyro which has no 760u setting, only 1520u

Here is the Spartan link: http://www.spartan-rc.com/resources/servodb/servo.php

That table is pretty helpful. The 760u servos seem to score highest.

Terry
Thanks
I have ever thing but the heli kit so testing all the stuff while I wait. Yeah, that works with 760u
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 03:35 PM
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MikeHRC do you have any more info on the powers buss you talked about?
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 03:36 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Dec 2010
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Share your settings here:
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread....05#post3568505

This will help all of us get familiarized with settings that are working for many of us.
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 06:06 PM
Team Mulikow 3D
Oxfordshire, UK
Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by ChopperCrazy View Post
MikeHRC do you have any more info on the powers buss you talked about?
Here is a thread on HF for "high current" set-ups, some use a separate regulator, some have made a simple "bus" to power the servos, basically the servo has 3 wires in it's cable - positive and negative (red and black) that power the servo and a signal wire (white). What people with high power servos are doing is taking the positive and negative leads and plugging them straight into a power source (regulator or home-made power bus) and simply plugging the signal lead into the FBL unit to get the signals. The thread is here http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=259794 . I haven't done this myself, but I can certainly see the logic if the servos are drawing a few amps.

And here is an ingenious DIY job http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.ph...6&postcount=51
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 06:28 PM
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Thanks MikeHrc, lots of good info.
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 11:19 PM
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United States, WA, Issaquah
Joined May 2011
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that's really cool, but not necessary for birds smaller than 600. Even then, it's really only worth doing if you run brushless HV servos. My $0.02.
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 11:28 PM
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Tail wag issue being persistent

Last Friday my friend Emerson help me dial in all the XYZ settings with my USB cord and laptop I flew the helicopter six flights on Friday and one on Saturday morning before a blade grip issue caused me to crash now after all week of switching out parts see the list of what I've done I can't get rid of a Tailwag I'm guessing I might have damaged this zyx gyro if anybody has any input on what else I can try I don't have a spare Fbl gyro system to switch out for the one that I think is damaged but anyways I'd appreciate anything anybody can throw me info below is what I was texting to Emerson what I was trying to fix the issue

So add to the list new rubber bushings  in  the head two pieces of foam with the metal dampening plate still having the same issue just a small wag but nevertheless persistent the last time this thing had a good flight it had a gain setting of 18 I've now tried anywhere between eight and 50 and it's making no difference got to change out the tail Servo now give it one more try i have already changed out nearly 80% of the movie parts on this helicopter Other items changed out where the blades the mainshaft the feathering shaft the blade grips that tail shaft the torque tube shaft the boom the bearing in the boom

it just shakes back and forth about 4 to 5 inches slowly not very twitchy just slowly anytime I change the tail position it will hold solid after a few Tailwag's but as soon as I give more rudder input and then Recenter the stick it does the same thing again
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Old Jan 19, 2012, 12:46 AM
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Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jginsandiego View Post
Last Friday my friend Emerson help me dial in all the XYZ settings with my USB cord and laptop I flew the helicopter six flights on Friday and one on Saturday morning before a blade grip issue caused me to crash now after all week of switching out parts see the list of what I've done I can't get rid of a Tailwag I'm guessing I might have damaged this zyx gyro if anybody has any input on what else I can try I don't have a spare Fbl gyro system to switch out for the one that I think is damaged but anyways I'd appreciate anything anybody can throw me info below is what I was texting to Emerson what I was trying to fix the issue

So add to the list new rubber bushings  in  the head two pieces of foam with the metal dampening plate still having the same issue just a small wag but nevertheless persistent the last time this thing had a good flight it had a gain setting of 18 I've now tried anywhere between eight and 50 and it's making no difference got to change out the tail Servo now give it one more try i have already changed out nearly 80% of the movie parts on this helicopter Other items changed out where the blades the mainshaft the feathering shaft the blade grips that tail shaft the torque tube shaft the boom the bearing in the boom

it just shakes back and forth about 4 to 5 inches slowly not very twitchy just slowly anytime I change the tail position it will hold solid after a few Tailwag's but as soon as I give more rudder input and then Recenter the stick it does the same thing again
try replacing your tail shaft again, if you haven't, it could be bent ever so slightly and it's a very inexpensive part to replace.
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Old Jan 19, 2012, 12:48 AM
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USA, CA, Red Bluff
Joined Dec 2007
952 Posts
I fixed a tail wag problem be changeing the main roter bearings on my 450. Bad bearings on the tail roter shaft can cause vibration allso.
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Old Jan 19, 2012, 01:07 AM
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Udine, Italy
Joined Mar 2001
58 Posts
after another couple of flights with my raptor , i noticed that also witha reduction on DR to 70 for elevator, 80 for ailerons, and 80 to rudder (with 90 exp) is impossible for me to flight so calm.
I mean that also if i Use a f3c setup, the flight is really nervous as i give a pitch or rudder command.
It seems that is stable ( too much) as in hovering and as it feels the command it acquires immediately, make the flight like a dolfin.
The rudder, moreover, don t wont to make a complete to stable velocity during pirouettes. I checked the setting and is perfect, but it seems that have a block during rotation.

I dont have till now ( i m waiting) the usb cord, so i can setup only with transmitter.

Thanks
Andrea
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