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Old Sep 24, 2011, 11:03 AM
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Canada, ON, London
Joined Sep 2011
8 Posts
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Cooling an Air Cooled Engine???

Hey I just want to run this across a few people that might have some more experience than I. I remember when my dad used to take me to the boat races, there were guys that would cool their motors by wrapping copper tube between the cooling fins of the motor for cooling instead of using a water jacket. I just want to know if this is something anyone has done before and If it will even work, or if there are any other options for me. I don't want to get a purpose built marine engine for this boat as I already started to build a boat which I plan on putting a Zenoah in.
I remember seeing a post on this forum or maybe another about this subject but I'm not having luck finding it and I don't think it went to the end. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Cheers
Adam
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Old Sep 24, 2011, 12:05 PM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
2,940 Posts
Why not just buy a water-cooled head and jacket?
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Old Sep 24, 2011, 06:49 PM
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Canada, ON, London
Joined Sep 2011
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Well I was gonna try this idea as Im a plumber and have access to copper so it would be free. And I thought of looking into a water jacket and head, but I wouldn't know where to start. Its a Quadra-Aerrow engine and the only thing I know about it is that its a 33cc but aside from that I can't find any part numbers or any type of stamping on the engine. Like I said in my post also, I'm looking into building another boat and don't want to spend money on this one aside from what I have to.
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Old Sep 24, 2011, 11:45 PM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
2,940 Posts
OK. Your best bet is to have someone if you can't do it to machine off the fins then coil 5/32" copper tubing around it as far as you can letting the water enter at the bottom of the coil. Something like JB Weld will help to hold it in place but don't go crazy with it.
The Quadra isn't a speed demon as it probably only tops out at around 12,000 RPM. The upside is that it should be able to spin a high diameter prop, 75-78mm. You can start it out with something in the 72mm range to see how it takes it.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 08:56 AM
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Canada, ON, London
Joined Sep 2011
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Would something like heat conductive grease like arctic silver or something be an idea to help heat transfer? I know as a plumber when your building radiant heat panels between the aluminum panel and copper tube to help fill in any areas where the copper isn't touching the aluminum. And It is also used on the contact area underneath electronic heatsinks like in your xbox or computer.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 09:32 AM
RC boat Rock Star
Kalamazoo, MI
Joined Apr 2004
2,940 Posts
It sure couldn't hurt! My HVAC experience isn't much but I did do some right after I graduated from HS, many, many moon ago.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 05:18 PM
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Joined Mar 2010
172 Posts
Fill the copper tube with sand then bend it around something slightly smaller when dump all the sand out it should fit snugly then put the heat conductive grease on the cyl. before you install the coil. I have done this with electric motors with good results.
Dave
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 07:41 PM
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Canada, ON, Whitby
Joined Aug 2008
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^^ I suggest using salt instead of sand, it's easier to get out of the tubing. If it's being a pain, just put the coil in boiling water and it'll empty out in a hurry.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 09:25 AM
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Canada, ON, London
Joined Sep 2011
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Thanks guys, I like that salt trick. And I was thinking of putting a battery powered pump on it like a 12v windshield washer pump to power it instead if running a pick-up (not too worried about weight). And would it be an idea to have a couple of coils? like wrap one around the top few heat fins the start another for a couple then do a 2-1 or 3-1 header for it in a larger OD pipe? Just an idea.
Cheers
Adam
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