I just can't get enough of these planes!!

Here's the link to instructions:

http://www.extremeflightrc.com/manua...300_MANUAL.pdf

Here's a link to an article for the setup of your plane, lots of serious competitors have used this article on setup:

http://www.btinternet.com/~b.colclou...Trimming-1.pdf

Hey, thanks for the info and if there is anything else feel free to add.

No problem!
If you have any questions on setup I might be able to help you figure out what to get/do.
I few things I recommend: Get strong servos, get atleast as good of servos as the manufacturer recommends, especially if your going to 3D with it.
Batteries are always spendy but hobby king is the cheapest I've found them for. Get the Turnigy Nano-tecks. They're getting very popular.
A backup RX battery might be a good idea in case anything happens such as a bad solder joint on the main, ESC failure, etc.

I know a few things about setting up planes due to trial and error so let me know if there's you're not sure about.

I do have some questions for you and I'll get back with you on them. Thanks.

How can I incorporate the receiver backup pack and would you recommend a small lipo. I'm new to electrics.

I've been into electrics since the beginning of my hobby but I'm just getting into bigger ones so I've been studying a lot about them and figuring out what I'm going to get for my new 60" EF Extra EXP that's coming out. I'm not going to promise everything I'm saying is correct as I've been more into large gas planes than large electrics but I'm quite sure it's all true and this is how I'm going to set up mine.

First thing, a lot of larger ESC's have a BEC cable. This is a cable that goes straight from the battery to the RX but regulated. It will eliminate the danger of the ESC failing and you losing all control. But you're still relying on a single battery and plug. So what you need to do is get a battery probably around 500-1000 mah and regulate it to the same voltage the BEC is putting out and plug it directly into the RX. Yes, I recommend a small lipo for this, just make sure you take it out of the plane when you charge it. Remember, It's just a backup so it won't need to be anything really special.

Chances are you will be just fine without the backup battery. I've just had too many malfunctions to be even slightly careless.

I recently asked a similar question on FG. You can read through the thread if you want. There's some helpful info on there. I've just found that an extra battery is the most redundant setup:

http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=67700

few things I recommend: Get strong servos, get atleast as good of servos as the manufacturer recommends, especially if your going to 3D with it.
I finally got the EF Extra 300 EXP 70". I bought it used from a guy in GA. It came with a rewound with ceramic bearings 5065-380 Turnigy motor, Castle Ice 100 HV, BEC Pro, 2 8s battery setup(2 2s 5000 and 2 6s 5000) HS 5955 on rudder and ailerons and 5245 on rudder. All for $500.

few things I recommend: Get strong servos, get atleast as good of servos as the manufacturer recommends, especially if your going to 3D with it.
I finally got the EF Extra 300 EXP 70". I bought it used from a guy in GA. It came with a rewound with ceramic bearings 5065-380 Turnigy motor, Castle Ice 100 HV, BEC Pro, 2 8s battery setup(2 2s 5000 and 2 6s 5000) HS 5955 on rudder and ailerons and 5245 on rudder. All for $500.

Originally Posted by jw357_23043

few things I recommend: Get strong servos, get atleast as good of servos as the manufacturer recommends, especially if your going to 3D with it.
I finally got the EF Extra 300 EXP 70". I bought it used from a guy in GA. It came with a rewound with ceramic bearings 5065-380 Turnigy motor, Castle Ice 100 HV, BEC Pro, 2 8s battery setup(2 2s 5000 and 2 6s 5000) HS 5955 on rudder and ailerons and 5245 on rudder. All for $500.

Wow, good deal.
Only make sure you run the motor on the ground for a little while just to test it. The Turnigy's have been known to have magnets debond when the motor gets hot. But I'm sure if its been used it will be fine...

Originally Posted by jlloyd1995

Wow, good deal.
Only make sure you run the motor on the ground for a little while just to test it. The Turnigy's have been known to have magnets debond when the motor gets hot. But I'm sure if its been used it will be fine...

The magnets were re-clued when it was rewound. I've ran it one time since I got it. I had a friend come over. The run was 77amps@2280watts on 29.18 volts. Not sure as to the kv. I have to test fly for about 3 minutes to see if that set will be setup will be safe without over doing the motor. The guy I bought it from told me to adjust the endpoints on my throttle so it would not exceed 70amps@2000watts. My friend advised against this method. I read that others doing it with no problems. I tend to lean towards his opinion however I'm still researching this topic.

I've been learning a lot since the post before my last one. What ever size prop you have, the motor will "try" to spin it at a certain RPM. Say 10000. The bigger the prop you have, the more amperage it will take to spin that prop. So you want to get the biggest prop you can without burning up the motor. I recommend getting a watt meter for this and run it on the ground at full throttle to see how many amps the motor is taking. Also, if you have a prop so big that you can't run the motor at full throttle without over amping it, that makes a less efficient setup because the prop is heavier for the same amount of power that you'd be making with the motor running at full and a smaller prop. Hope that makes sense.

Originally Posted by jlloyd1995

I've been learning a lot since the post before my last one. What ever size prop you have, the motor will "try" to spin it at a certain RPM. Say 10000. The bigger the prop you have, the more amperage it will take to spin that prop. So you want to get the biggest prop you can without burning up the motor. I recommend getting a watt meter for this and run it on the ground at full throttle to see how many amps the motor is taking. Also, if you have a prop so big that you can't run the motor at full throttle without over amping it, that makes a less efficient setup because the prop is heavier for the same amount of power that you'd be making with the motor running at full and a smaller prop. Hope that makes sense.

Yes it makes sense and I forgot to mention the prop size was 18-10. I was going to go to 18-8 to try and bring the amps down.