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Old Sep 27, 2011, 03:11 PM
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Mark Miller's Avatar
St. Louis, MO
Joined Oct 2002
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Now you all can see why I went with the 1" TE stock. There is not much to the back of this airfoil. With 3/4" it would break easily. Looking back while this airfoil has specs as good or better than any RES airfoil out there currently including the Drelas it may be better suited to and was designed for the Ava/Soprano type construction.

My hope is to get some custom cut TE stock that will fit better and so less planing and sanding.
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Old Oct 10, 2011, 09:56 AM
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United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
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I've been out of pocket for a week attending a dog and pony show... (staff meeting)... and then had VIP company all weekend... (grandson)... I'll be hittin' it again tonight!
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Old Oct 10, 2011, 10:29 PM
Wood Chucker
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USA, TX, Allen
Joined Nov 2009
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Would custom cut TE compare favorably against something like CF prelam? It seems to me that I've seen a lot of rubber FF models using prelam as TE material recently but that's not a community I'm involved in.
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Old Oct 11, 2011, 02:01 PM
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A CF TE would be great but remember that this is a beginner to intermediate design. This necessitates keeping cost down and assembly basic.
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 08:54 AM
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United States, TX, Weatherford
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OK... I have actually done some work on the Duet. I'll be posting some pics and narratives tonight... I'm at the salt pit right now...
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 12:25 PM
Wood Chucker
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USA, TX, Allen
Joined Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Miller View Post
A CF TE would be great but remember that this is a beginner to intermediate design. This necessitates keeping cost down and assembly basic.
Would it be possible for an ambitious fabricator to replace the TE with laminated CF? I don't know that I'm actually that ambitious but I might experiment on another model to see if its worth the effort.
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 08:47 PM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
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United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
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OK... so here we go again. I have joined the center panels and added the upper sheeting and leading edges. So far so good. I'm going to upload pictures without much narrative. There'll be some labeling, etc... but I'm curious as to what and how many questions I'll get.
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 09:01 PM
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United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
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Last installment for tonight... and probably until next weekend. You know... that nasty 4-letter word... WORK!

I hope you 2-meter lovers will take the last caption as the funny it was intended...
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 09:16 PM
Wood Chucker
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USA, TX, Allen
Joined Nov 2009
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Nicely done work Jack. So far, beautiful. I noticed the backing plate on the center joiner is beveled at the edges. Is there a mechanical reason for that or just personal preference?
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Old Oct 17, 2011, 11:04 PM
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The edges are scarfed out to feather edge to prevent a stress point. It's proven to help some, but probably more for my peace of mind than anything...
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Old Oct 19, 2011, 08:19 AM
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United States, TX, Weatherford
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I started on the fuselage last night. I just started by gluing the sides together and trial fitting parts. Two of the bulkheads get glued together to form one, and that's done. I glued the sides together, one on top of the other, with waxed paper in between, so they would be perfectly aligned with each other. I'll take a few pics tonight and post 'em... I'll be laminating the 1/64" ply nose doublers in place with polyurethane glue or thinned wood glue this evening... depending on the temperature in my garage. I haven't broken out the heater, yet, but it may be time to do that...
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Old Oct 19, 2011, 08:46 AM
Making wood fly since 2007
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USA, MN, Rochester
Joined Mar 2008
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Hi Jack, looking good so far. If you can, would you demonstrate how you get the bottom leading edge sheeting to glue to the curved ribs? That was always something that vexed me when I was a beginner builder.

Wayne
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Old Oct 19, 2011, 10:25 AM
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North Branford, CT
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Why do you dilute Titebond?
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Old Oct 19, 2011, 10:40 AM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
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United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephen.s1 View Post
Why do you dilute Titebond?
It soaks in better and I actually use 1/3 less glue in each joint. It also slows my drying time somewhat. That's not important in areas where the humidity is high. But on the desert high plains, where the humidity is generally less that 20%, without dilution, Titebond scabs over in less than a minute.
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