SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 01, 2011, 07:40 PM
Registered User
Mark Miller's Avatar
United States, WI, Waunakee
Joined Oct 2002
2,727 Posts
If you look at the build thread that I did I used rubber bands and pins. Lots of options to building a model plane
Mark Miller is offline Find More Posts by Mark Miller
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 01, 2011, 07:49 PM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2008
638 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Miller View Post
Yes it is Dave
I guess I'll have to belly up and buy one...
Cap_n_Dave is offline Find More Posts by Cap_n_Dave
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2011, 10:38 AM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
7,822 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap_n_Dave View Post
Errr...how about a vacuum instead of the books?
Careful... You might crush something... Don't ask how I know...
schrederman is offline Find More Posts by schrederman
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2011, 10:44 AM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2008
638 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by schrederman View Post
Careful... You might crush something... Don't ask how I know...
Well, he could use an aquarium pump ... which will pull something like 5 to 7 inches.
Cap_n_Dave is offline Find More Posts by Cap_n_Dave
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2011, 10:58 AM
Wood Chucker
Lacquerhead's Avatar
USA, TX, Allen
Joined Nov 2009
1,512 Posts
It seems to me that bagging an open structure is just a Bad Idea(tm). I'd be more concerned about crushing unsupported ribs than anything else. Phone books seem like a good way to do it with gentle but firm distributed pressure. You shouldn't need a whole lot of pressure to form the d-box with the grain of the wood working with you. In a composite structure a large portion of the job the vacuum is doing is forcing out as much epoxy as possible since it's only job is to hold the load-bearing material (fiberglass, carbon fiber fabric, Kevlar, etc.) against the core material (typically foam or balsa). The epoxy don't provide anything structurally so it's just extra weight.

In this case the sheeting is partially structural but its function is also to provide an accurate leading edge. That and it looks really cool.
Lacquerhead is offline Find More Posts by Lacquerhead
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2011, 10:25 PM
Registered User
United States, OR, Corvallis
Joined Jan 2010
940 Posts
Gluing down sheeting with Alphatic Resin and a hot iron

I still have to put 2 cents in for the tried and true and hasn't-failed-me-yet method of:

1)Use Alphatic resin.
2)Apply glue.
3)Put the sheeting and ribs and such together.
4)Pull the sheeting off and use your finger to smear the glue nice and even.
5)Let the glue dry or get really close to dry
6)If dry, sand smooth if a rough texture comes up
7)Get your covering iron out at the same temp you use to apply covering and iron on the balsa sheeting.

The heat will heat-bend the wood, it will polymerize the glue, and the wood will tear apart before that heat-activated glue joint breaks, and you'll have nice even glue jointing everywhere with out any "gaps" since nice slow even ironing will push both sides of all the glue interfaces together.

And, it's actually faster and very controllable and no sliding of parts out of place while the glue is wet.

So, That's my 2 Cents on the topic.

Oh yeah, that's a pretty cool plane! -Paul
Pauliwog is offline Find More Posts by Pauliwog
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2011, 12:02 AM
Wood Chucker
Lacquerhead's Avatar
USA, TX, Allen
Joined Nov 2009
1,512 Posts
I've not heard that one before. Thanks for sharing Paul!
Lacquerhead is offline Find More Posts by Lacquerhead
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2011, 09:47 AM
Unrepentant Paragon addict
LVsoaring's Avatar
United States, OK, Moore
Joined Jan 2006
2,679 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lacquerhead View Post
I've not heard that one before. Thanks for sharing Paul!

I heard that a few years ago, and simply did not believe it. I tried it on some scrap balsa, and sure as heck, it works!
LVsoaring is offline Find More Posts by LVsoaring
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2011, 09:49 AM
Unrepentant Paragon addict
LVsoaring's Avatar
United States, OK, Moore
Joined Jan 2006
2,679 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Miller View Post
I am happy with what I see with this build. Looks like we have things sorted. I have flown two of them so far and know that they fly great.

At this point the only remaining piece is a manual. Using Jack's build thread and some photos I already have there should be about to finish that. I'd like to have a few for sale by the New Year.
Mark, could you put me on the list for your first run of kits.... That would be a nice Christmas present to myself!
LVsoaring is offline Find More Posts by LVsoaring
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2011, 10:10 AM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2008
638 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pauliwog View Post
The heat will heat-bend the wood, it will polymerize the glue, and the wood will tear apart before that heat-activated glue joint breaks, and you'll have nice even glue jointing everywhere with out any "gaps" since nice slow even ironing will push both sides of all the glue interfaces together.
Yep. I did that on my Sig Riser 2M back in the day.

I hadn't mentioned it because I figured it was common knowledge.

I can't recall where I first learned of it, but when I did I couldn't believe it until I actually tried it. Worked like a champ for the Riser.
Cap_n_Dave is offline Find More Posts by Cap_n_Dave
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2011, 10:45 AM
Registered User
Mark Miller's Avatar
United States, WI, Waunakee
Joined Oct 2002
2,727 Posts
Back in my car restoration days I used to specialize in refinishing interior wood. Mostly Rolls Royces and Bentleys. I used to use the dry aliphatic resin and an iron to redo the veneer. Worked great. I never tried it on wing sheeting although I have used to to bond ply doublers to fuselage sides. I usually do as Jack dod to prop up the bottom sheeting and CA the lower sheet in place. Then I just use aliphatic on the upper sheet held down by rubber bands. Many ways to skin the cat.
Mark Miller is offline Find More Posts by Mark Miller
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2011, 11:42 AM
Registered User
Mark Miller's Avatar
United States, WI, Waunakee
Joined Oct 2002
2,727 Posts
I too am working on things for the kit today. I added a cutout in the aft fuselage for the pushrods. I am also trying to finish the manual. This is for me one of the hardest parts as I rarely use them and rarely do the same thing the same way twice so it's hard to do a manual which is on the face of it the Master Plan. I have to keep reminding myself that this is not like a piece of IKEA furniture that only has one way to put it together and need to try and not have it be tab A in slot B type of thing.
Mark Miller is offline Find More Posts by Mark Miller
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2011, 12:37 PM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
United States, TX, Weatherford
Joined Nov 2002
7,822 Posts
Heating Dry Aliphatic Resin

I have used this method only once. Unfortunately for me, it lasted for about a year and let go. So... if it works for you... OK... but I'll not use it again. YMMV...

Jack
schrederman is offline Find More Posts by schrederman
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 04, 2011, 06:08 AM
Kurt Zimmerman ≡LSF 4461≡
kzimmerm's Avatar
Montrose, NY
Joined May 2003
1,386 Posts
I've used this method with success. A friend of mine built an Aquila and sheeted the wings using contact cement and heat. I've owned that very same Aquila since the early '80s and have given it 2 face lifts and the wings are still in good shape. Contact cement is water base stuff.
Kurt
kzimmerm is offline Find More Posts by kzimmerm
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 04, 2011, 06:16 AM
Kurt Zimmerman ≡LSF 4461≡
kzimmerm's Avatar
Montrose, NY
Joined May 2003
1,386 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Miller View Post
I too am working on things for the kit today. I added a cutout in the aft fuselage for the pushrods. I am also trying to finish the manual. This is for me one of the hardest parts as I rarely use them and rarely do the same thing the same way twice so it's hard to do a manual which is on the face of it the Master Plan. I have to keep reminding myself that this is not like a piece of IKEA furniture that only has one way to put it together and need to try and not have it be tab A in slot B type of thing.
I'm with you. IMHO all you really need is a reference of basic sequencing. Leave the detailed stuff up to the builder.

The more experienced builder is probable is not going to use it or may simply glance at it.

Reminds me of a German kit I built a few years age. No English instructions at all. Built it with no issues at all.
kzimmerm is offline Find More Posts by kzimmerm
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Build Log Build Log - STARFIRE! Mc Clain Wing Cores 48" Beta Build pval3 Flying Wings 548 Nov 16, 2013 11:34 PM
New Product Scale Military UAV / Drone Beta-Kit Build/NOW WITH VIDEO! pattypilot Electric Warbirds 140 Mar 01, 2012 01:28 PM
Discussion Isthmus Models Duet Beta Build StevenatorLTFO Sailplane Talk 158 Sep 16, 2011 09:34 PM
Discussion Rollason Beta quick-build Sopwith Mike Scale Kit/Scratch Built 74 Jul 27, 2011 04:45 PM
Discussion Kit/Plane fun build contest-Hawker Typhoon beta build baldguy Scale Kit/Scratch Built 268 Oct 08, 2009 12:58 AM