|May 20, 2012, 10:21 PM|
O.K. I finally got my Arrow done and flown. All I can say is Wow! I thought the SUltimate flew well right out of my hands... the Arrow is even better.
Thanks Don for the instruction manual and Dave for the Kits and for turning me on to Don's stuff in the first place.... I always love flying a plane that makes me easily look better than I really am.. LOL...
Not milled... going to do some outdoor flying with it at times.
so AUW is 207 grams
4 JR 290G's
CC PH 10 ESC
Spektrum 6115 RX
GensAce 2S 450 25C
Neu Motors Neutrino 14 gram motor. 1850kv
Don's reccommended setups as close as I could get on my DX7..
The Neu Motor does not have the punch out power and all out speed that the AXI probably has, but it is more than enough for whatever you want to do and almost completely silent ... which is really cool.
Here's a few pics..
|May 21, 2012, 11:16 AM|
two recommendations in one:
drop the weight and increase the power....how?
use smaller lighter batteries and ones that are much higher rate
my recommendation would be Nanotech 300s @35/70C
those go for dirt cheap and a 2S pack will weight UNDER 16gr
also a few more grams could come off with a 6A ESC vs the PH 10
ask any of the pros- lighter flys better, at least until you're below 120g(actually I say 100gr)
and yes, I mostly fly outdoors so I know how different it is
|May 21, 2012, 01:07 PM|
Thanks for the ideas crossup. I have TP 2S 320 packs at 35 or 40C that will certainly fly it and reduce the weight to under 200 grams but it puts the balance at the rearward point of the CG.. so I use those for indoors. I've also considered taking the bottom off of the two JR 290's in the wings because that will knock off 3 grams right there. ESC has got to stay, but RX covering can be removed. Then i'm pretty sure that I can get it around 180 grams or less.
I could also remove the rubber band powerd micro wheels and their wire from the CF landing struts, but then it would'nt roll on pavement or a gym floor.. LOL.. I'm also pretty sure that the only way to get an Arrow V5 anywhere near 100 to 120 grams is to have it milled and set up for indoor only.
|May 21, 2012, 11:08 PM|
Yup, was just saying not too worry about being too light unless you are down at 120 or less.
IRC, the Arrow is a big plane, like my 1 meter Bruckman Spark so they run a bit heavy compared to typical planes. Anyway, the trend, even for local F3P guys is to run very small and light packs, like 180mah now that they can deliver the current, so when you build, keep as much weight forward as possible so you can still balance with small packs. My AITO is a good example of and old design that you just cant build nose heavy enough. I'm forced to run a big pak to balance, like you even though EVERYTHING is at the firewall and so forth. Just something to keep in mind while building.
|May 22, 2012, 10:35 AM|
Crossup, I got your drift... last night I put the 30C TP 320's on it and it took it down to 197 grams. Can't remove the bottoms of the two aileron servo's as they are in front of the CG. Right now, I can put any size battery in basically the same place and it will balance within range, which is nice. Don's comments in the build guide that if you choose the two servo aileron setup it has it's advantages for weight and for actuall flaps was spot on. I set up a mix on my three position switch last night so that flaps go down up to 30% proportional to the up given to the elevator... man that thing loops so fast and tight it was funny to watch... then I turned it off and continued flying like normal.
I got my first plane of this type from DaveL at the JR indoor 3 years ago. It was his "old" Aito bi-plane with a Cyclon motor... and you're right.. kind of a large pack way up front.. LOL.. but that's a great flyer too.. thanks for the encouragement.
Awood12345, I don't even pretend to speak for Donatas but I doubt he'll post plans since he has a network of distributors for the kits. Do what I did with the Sultimate. Buy a kit and trace the parts on your own depron before putting it together. That way you can have spare parts if something drastic happens. The kits are well worth it.
|Sep 23, 2012, 10:36 PM|
I finally built my V5 for this indoor season and it's ready to go except for one item - battery mounting.
I have cut the slot in the top vertical fuselage and put a stop block on one side but not sure how to finish it up so the battery doesn't come out.
I'm thinking of a velcro arrangement of some sort but after building all day, I am brain dead.
So the question of the day is...
How do you tackle the battery mounting issue?
Pictures highly desired!
ps - My next weekly indoor session is in about 18 hours - hope to be ready for the maiden then.
|Sep 24, 2012, 10:40 AM|
Hello JC. I will try to make picture soon on my Arrow V6. But idea is the same. I build depron box for battery, and put just small piece of velcro to one end of battery, on other side of the box I put other side of velcro. Such way velcro is keeping battery in depron box and do not let it slide away from place. In past i simply used bigger piece of velcro, but eventually it was tering plane apart So big piece of velcro is not good in my opinion.
|Sep 24, 2012, 05:10 PM|
I figured it out today.
i used some 1/32" ply to make a small rectangular floor under the batterry with a little added length to put some "hooK' side velcro so I won't tear up the foam. That holds the battery pretty snug but I also added a small "loop" piece as added portection to keep the battery in place.
Will try it out tonight.
|Sep 21, 2013, 04:14 AM|
I think the manual could be posted here but it is too large, almost 20 MB (lots of pictures). Donatas reads these forums frequently so I expect him to come to rescue. If not, I can put the manual up to my Skydrive.
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