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Old Oct 30, 2011, 05:42 AM
C'mon more Energy
Swoopdown's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Mar 2005
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Any progress Sean?
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 06:12 AM
registered user
Australia, QLD, Gold Coast
Joined Sep 2008
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He's been too busy winning thermal comps ! Slow circles is where its @ Lol
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 08:48 AM
0 to 400+ in 3.2 years
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
1,494 Posts
Hey Mick, yeah I've been beavering away on it little by little. Still working on the stabiliser plug, progress is slow mostly waiting for paint to dry. The plug is primed and should get the top coat early this week. I ended up doing three separate applications of primer to get a good finish for the top coat. First was fairly heavy and got sanded right back down to the MDF to get a level base, second and third were just single coats to get an even cover of primer ready for the top coat. Been hot boxing and leaving plenty of time between coats to ensure there's no sink back of the primer. Learning lots as I go, getting a good finish on the MDF without changing the airfoil shape is a little more involved than expected, but the slow relaxed pace makes it quite enjoyable. So far it's looking good and can't wait to start making the mould.
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Old Nov 02, 2011, 03:49 AM
0 to 400+ in 3.2 years
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
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Stabiliser Plug Painted

Finally something worthwhile to report. The stabiliser plug got 4 coats of 2k black today and is in the hotbox as I write. Should be ready to start finish sanding tomorrow. Painting went smoothly but it's not the best paintjob I've ever done, there's a little dust in the finish and a bit of orange peel. in the end that shouldn't matter, it'll get levelled with 600 grit wet/dry to start with. I went with 4 coats because I expect to remove a lot of that paint while sanding/polishing.
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Old Nov 02, 2011, 03:58 AM
DS state of origin NSW Vs QLD
Forrest12's Avatar
Joined Jul 2009
1,369 Posts
Nice work Sean,
Shes going to be a cracker!!

Its hard to find time to do these things isnt it? Seems everyone is so busy these days.. And not with flying.

Pete
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Old Nov 02, 2011, 04:08 AM
0 to 400+ in 3.2 years
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
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There were a few weeks there where I couldn't find the time to work much on it, but the last couple of weeks have mostly been waiting for paint to dry: three coats of primer carefully sanding between each coat and giving plenty of time to let it dry and fully shrink. When it comes time to do the wings there'll be less time wasted waiting for things to dry, there'll be so much to do between each coat of paint or while waiting for epoxy to cure, progress should really ramp up when we get to that stage.
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Old Nov 02, 2011, 09:58 AM
Heinkel me up baby
anthonyd's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Leongatha
Joined Dec 2009
466 Posts
Sean keep nibblen away at it, it will get done.

This may be a silly one, but are you using one plug for the stabilizer ?

Ant.
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Old Nov 02, 2011, 06:43 PM
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Sydney
Joined Apr 2009
715 Posts
I'm curious about the plug as well Sean. With CNC I imagine you could get away with one plug for both tail halves. I would mainly be concerned with the LE nose radius matching correctly.
What do you use for heat in your hot box - lamps?
Keep up your good work.
John
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Old Nov 02, 2011, 07:06 PM
0 to 400+ in 3.2 years
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
1,494 Posts
Thanks guys. You're right there's only one stabiliser plug, both mould halves will be taken off the one plug. Any innaccuracies would be from the sanding and painting process, my logic is the likelihood of building in any innaccuracy would be the same whether we use one plug or two, if you get what I mean. Biggest concern will be getting the plug off the first mould half without damaging the finish.

The lamps I show in one of the pics above that are strapped to a post in my workshop were originally made to use in the hotbox. Shortly after I made the hotbox I found that a simple hot air blowing heater did a better job (no hot spots), so that's what I've been using. Only downside is I can only get it to 65-70 deg C, because the heater has an inbuilt safety cutoff at that temp. It was great to find another use for the lamps!
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Old Nov 03, 2011, 12:26 AM
TEAM OZSKUNKWORX
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Starting to come together now Sean.But a long way to go you wont regret making molds.

keep up the good work mate she is looking sweet dude.

Shane
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Old Nov 03, 2011, 03:23 AM
0 to 400+ in 3.2 years
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
1,494 Posts
Thanks Shane, yep long way to go!

Stabiliser plug's out of the hotbox and ready for finish sanding. Paint looks better now that it's hard. Hotbox is brilliant. Overnight at 40deg C and all today at 35 deg C, the paint's now hard as nails and has zero smell.

Just gave it a guide coat in readiness for an evening of sanding...
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Old Nov 03, 2011, 03:39 AM
Don't grow up, it's a TRAP !!!
Larrikin's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Elimbah
Joined Jan 2005
1,411 Posts
And so it begins ... following with great interest.
Been there, done that ... about to do it again
D.
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Old Nov 03, 2011, 03:53 AM
0 to 400+ in 3.2 years
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
1,494 Posts
Glad you're checking this thread David! Your Sniper and Wabbit threads are my number one source of information for this part of the build . So glad you took the time to document those builds.
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Old Nov 03, 2011, 08:49 AM
Shane Spoor
PlayinInTheParK's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Sep 2006
353 Posts
Good progress Sean ,inspiring me to attack the wing plugs,also good to see the plug box handled the hot boxing OK .

Shane S
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Old Nov 03, 2011, 05:01 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Bellingen NSW Australia
Joined Aug 2008
6,466 Posts
Progress.

Sean,
Good to see you are getting back to the project. I'm just getting back to mine after weeks of delay and procrastination.
I have had lots of time to think though the joiner tube and alignment tube positioning in the wing skins prior to final assembly for my 1500mm span plank. Since I'm using a rectangular joiner, it will have to be aligned in both wings before gluing simultaneously. To facilitate that, I am making the moulds the same thickness from parting line (chord line) to the steel backing. Then when the moulds are sitting on a flat bench they can be positioned root to root. The joiner with the two tubes/boxes in place will then align each tube for gluing in place.

Will your joiners be round or rectangular? All the above is not relevant to you if you use round ones I suppose.

Jim.
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