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Old Feb 06, 2013, 01:28 AM
PB of 733kph
ALEX HEWSON's Avatar
Christchurch, New Zealand
Joined Jul 2005
5,514 Posts
Mmmm yes Shiney =)
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 01:44 AM
Arrarrar!
josh18's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wagga Wagga
Joined Jan 2010
3,410 Posts
Great work Sean. Interesting what you said about the cheaper paper- Ive always had that problem! One thing I have found with wet sanding is if you add a little dish washing detergent it seems to work much better- I think it lubricates the surface but also seems to make the water less likely to run away- Maybe its increased srface sension? Also with spray cans, if you heat them in a cupof hot water they spray much finer (more like a propper gun) and also it dries much quicker.
Cheers
Josh
Edit, just had a better look at the photos and WOW thats fantastic! This is gonna be such a cool plane!
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 01:51 AM
Where is the inspiration
wdeighton's Avatar
Moira
Joined Feb 2006
815 Posts
You do realise that if you are going to come here and make such a whoo haa about this model, you going to have to make it avalable to all the people drooling into their breakfast!

Loving your work.

And hope you are enjoying the journey.

William.

Whats this "Ducks guts"? either is bolox, or "the dogs Bolox" Watch the 51st state for a better description
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 02:57 AM
less sleep more planes
PlayinInTheParK's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Sep 2006
401 Posts
All your efforts perfecting the techniques needed are starting to shine
Keep pushing ahead ,fixing the minor blems could go backwards.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 04:57 AM
ETS....Energy retention system
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
Joined Aug 2008
5,515 Posts
Glad it all went well mate.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 05:40 AM
Self confessed Aeroholic
Larrikin's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Elimbah
Joined Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayinInTheParK View Post
Keep pushing ahead ,fixing the minor blems could go backwards.
+1 to that.
D.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 10:11 PM
It flies!
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
1,539 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdeighton View Post
You do realise that if you are going to come here and make such a whoo haa about this model, you going to have to make it avalable to all the people drooling into their breakfast!

Loving your work.

And hope you are enjoying the journey.

William.

Whats this "Ducks guts"? either is bolox, or "the dogs Bolox" Watch the 51st state for a better description
Thanks Will . I'm gonna have to come out and say it - I'm tentatively hoping to make a few of these and sell them, it's way too much time and money to do this just for myself. Infact I'm more interested in seeing these in the hands of people other than myself. I'm not flying much these days so my skills won't be a match for the guys who fly a lot. But we're a long way out just yet, at the moment I'm concentrating on just getting these moulds done.

You're right the duck's guts is like the bee's knees or the cat's pyjamas .
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 10:22 PM
It flies!
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlayinInTheParK View Post
Keep pushing ahead ,fixing the minor blems could go backwards.
I agree completely, I'm not touching these plugs now they're polished. I've been trying to decide whether to use Duratec or epoxy for the tooling coat. Duratec is a highly polishable polyester based product that's sprayed rather than brushed, and if I used it I could probably polish out the blems in the mould surface, but to be honest I'd rather go the epoxy route because it's a material I understand, and it'll be much easier to deal with the LE and joiner troughs if I use epoxy.

I know the pics make the plugs look perfect but there are a couple of issues with the finish - despite all my efforts to avoid sink back the paint has still sunk back a little to reveal underlying sandpaper scratches and even a slight hint of the MDF surface. This is something I could live with but there is another blem - I sprayed two dark blue coats for the final coats. In a couple of places I've sanded through the top coat into the second and on the edges of where it sanded through the paint has a slight porosity to it, no idea why that would be. My concern is this could show up as a sort of patchiness in the paint on finished parts. But it is hard to see and probably not visible in sunlight so maybe I am being a bit picky there.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 11:14 PM
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Larrikin's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Elimbah
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Originally Posted by Sean Moloney View Post
My concern is this could show up as a sort of patchiness in the paint on finished parts. But it is hard to see and probably not visible in sunlight so maybe I am being a bit picky there.
Considering the amount of parts that you're planning to make, I reckon if there is anything showing on the product, block and buff it out once it's out of the mould. You know the area that may be affected so make an extra pass or two with the paint gun on the mould surface so there's some extra paint to block away.
But you prolly already figured that, 'ey?
D.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 11:23 PM
It flies!
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
1,539 Posts
You're probably right, but I'd love to be able to pull out parts that needed no extra work.

I have a few concerns about buffing finished parts - first you'd need a jig to hold each part because the electric buffer has some torque to it and could easily grab your beautfiul wing and throw it across the room . Hand buffing two pack is horrible and would take all day for each part.

The other concern is shrinkback - I recently built a couple of Windburners using Kev's old hand made Windburner moulds. On one I had to buff out some paint problems and it caused the epoxy to shrink back like nothing else, revealing a really prominent cloth weave. Perhaps that was simply a result of not post curing to a high enough temperature (I didn't want to damage Kev's moulds).

I'm sure these are issues that can be dealt with but when you're being fussy like I am these are things you think about.......
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 11:56 PM
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Larrikin's Avatar
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If the area is the size of a golf ball ( for example) you dont need to go near it with a machine buff. I use the same Q-cut "Juice" on Mercs, Jags, BMWs, Lambos, etc. Block with 2000 and hand polish with a CLEAN, dust free mirco fibre cloth.

D.
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 12:22 AM
It flies!
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
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That's great advice David but the porous paint problem affects a very large area of the surface. It looks like I've sanded/buffed through most of the first coat across most of the wing, and it's gone into the second coat in quite a large number of areas. It affects the top wing plug a lot more than the bottom wing plug . Why it is slightly porous where I've gone thorugh coats is another question entirely, but not at all unexpected, spray painting is a black art that I might never understand completely!

I really don't think it's that big a deal though, if the finished parts look like these plugs they'd be as good or better than most bought mouldies I've seen, it's just got me wondering about what material I should use for the mould surface coat.
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 02:39 AM
Arrarrar!
josh18's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wagga Wagga
Joined Jan 2010
3,410 Posts
Hey Sean, I read you anded the paint while it was still soft. Would giving it more drying time help you avoid shrink back?
Also, As far as knew with 2pac paints the colour is just for the colour and the clear coat on top gives all the protection. I dont know if they vary in toughness at all though. Do any of you 2pac glider guys use clear coat?
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 03:04 AM
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Larrikin's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Elimbah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh18 View Post
Do any of you 2pac glider guys use clear coat?
No clear coat for me. I use Protec 606.
Have done for years. This is off PVA.

David
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 03:21 AM
It flies!
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh18 View Post
Hey Sean, I read you anded the paint while it was still soft. Would giving it more drying time help you avoid shrink back?
Also, As far as knew with 2pac paints the colour is just for the colour and the clear coat on top gives all the protection. I dont know if they vary in toughness at all though. Do any of you 2pac glider guys use clear coat?
Hey Josh, I levelled it with 600 grit fairly early, about 24 hours after spraying, but then I left it about 5 days, including 36 hours in the hotbox to harden up before proceeding to block with 800 and finer. I really thought that would be long enough to avoid any sink back issues but it looks like it wasn't. I've tried doing the initial levelling after several days and have found it too hard to sand, either taking all day or requiring too coarse a grit.

I wonder if I'm putting my coats on too wet (thick)? Could be that I'm trapping solvent by doing so? I also thin it as much as possible to help it level but again maybe that's trapping solvents, causing the paint to continue to gas off over an extended period?

Dave, I use Protec 606 as well, and it's all I've ever used. It's what everyone around here sells and is fairly cheap by 2 pack standards. I could be wrong but I've been lead to believe there are better paints out there, maybe some shrink back less than others? I tend to think it's more likely something I'm doing wrong. Maybe I just need to wait a month before final sanding/buffing...
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