|Sep 14, 2011, 05:23 AM|
Joined Aug 2011
Foamie Flyguy in 4 sizes
This post updated 2-21-2013
I have started a new thread to replace this one. This one has become too long and much of the information is dated. Please refer to the new thread at:
History: Flyguy™ came into being after a visit to my local hobby shop where one of the workers showed me a 30 second clip of an RC flying man. I had seen human shaped balsa gliders in the early 60’s and decided I wanted to design and build a flying person while keeping it inexpensive, simple to build and easy to fly.
That was 2 years ago and now I have about 6 variations of the basic Flyguy and have personally built 15. They are being flown by modelers worldwide. A video of my personal Flyguy dressed as Superman went viral and lead to many national interviews and corporate events.
Flyguy is easy to build and will fly great if you follow the build logs; deviate and you may have problems. You can scratch build Flyguy or order Depron and ply cutouts through flyingguys.com. This web address will take you to balsabuddies.com. flyingguys.com is easier to mention and remember.
In addition, if you happen to get out to the Los Angeles or San Diego area and would like a RTF Flyguy 62 Version 2, I now offer them flight tested, less battery and transmitter for $700. Inquire through flyingguys.com.
Flyguy62 as Superman with 200w of power (standard).
Flyguy62 with 385w of power (insane).
Flyguy is not a slow-fly plane like most Depron foamies; he is more like a balsa shoulder wing trainer. Make sure you do not reduce the prop pitch for slow-fly; he needs to move through the air for effective control.
I've included three PDF files in this post of plans/parts for 62", 46" and 31" Flyguy and 37" and 61" Flygirl. There are other options in the next few posts, so you do not have to look for them. I have also included my first design drawing.
Here is the link to Flyguy 62 Version 2 Build Log:
Here is the link to Flyguy 46 Version 2 Build Log:
Here is the link to the Flyguy62 Version 1 Build Log:
Here is the link to the Flyguy46 Version 1 Build Log:
Here is the link to the Flyguy31 Build Log:
Here is the link to the Flygirl61 Build Log:
Here is the link to the Flygirl37 Build Log:
Enjoy the threads. Best.
FilesView all Files in thread
|Sep 14, 2011, 05:31 AM|
Joined Aug 2011
Videos, Videos, Videos
As of 3-2-2012, here is a list of known successful Flyguy flyers:
Me- Capt. America, Superman (3), Green Lantern, Flygirl38, Flygirl37, Flygirl61 and my daughter Claire
nightman12- Ultraman (Thailand)
RC Rich- Dollarman, Untitled/unpainted
Camfuria- Ironman (Argentina)
whatala- Spiderman with cape
Petefoss- Mr. Incredible (22 in)
1905Flyer3- Blue Man
Alpea 41- Rocketeer
Flyboyz43- 46" Flyguy
dave102269- 62" Flyguy
Ralph Barron- Flyguy46
danford1- 31" Jail Bird
glue hand brian- 62" Flyguy and Bananaman (UK)
gaz9697- 31" Baconboy (UK)
Keith,Jonathan and Anthony- 62" Robin (Island of Malta)
gaz9697 buddy- 31" Superspam
Oldstyle 62- 62" Superman
Scusty1- 46" Superman (Australia)
tdearth (Tim)- 62" Capt America
Flyguy as Robin on the Island of Malta
Flyguy as Ironman in Argentina by Camfuria
Flyguy as Ultraman in Asia by Nightman12
Flyguy as Flyguy in the UK by Glue Hand Brian
Many videos here and youtube. This first one has some video of the 22" Superman and 62" Green Lantern.
This video is of my 46" version of my Daughter
This is a video of the Green Lantern mislabeled Green Hornet. I upgraded the power system to a std Parkzone T-28/F4U system but cut down the prop to 8".
Pete Foss built a 23" Mr. Incredible
|Sep 14, 2011, 05:33 AM|
Joined Aug 2011
I have created a separate Build Log that is very detailed. Here is the link:
Various plans/part sets have been developed by various thread contributors for your use and are include here. The important dimension is the prop slot width and overall length. Length will determine suggested motor minimum wattage; 60"/200w, 46"/130w, 36"/50w. Any length Flyguy can be made wider at the centerline to suit prop diameter. A wider Flyguy will have better roll performance.
How to build....
1. Pick a power setup that you like. My 62" man has a standard Parkzone F4U/T-28 setup with the prop cut down to 8" diameter. The diameter of the prop sets the size of the man. Be careful in reducing prop diameters because this can significantly reduce thrust. Better to widen Flyguy at the midline.
2. Blow up the drawing to a size that will allow the prop to fit between the body sides. I used a regular desktop printer to blow up the drawing.
3. From 6mm depron cut 2 sides, the center body, the top plate and the breast plate. You can cut the center body, the top plate and the breast plate in a right and left halves to conserve depron and glue the halves together. The head can be cut as shown or you can get fancy and shoot some photos of yourself (L and R, Front and Back). Size the prints of your head to the size of the head outline on the plans and cut the depron head to your head shape. You now have all the pieces.
4. On the center body draw the left and right "cut to assemble lines" on the depron. These should be parallel and spead 0.5" greater than the prop diameter. On the inside of the left and right sides draw the center body line. Make sure they match. Now on the inside of the sides, draw the top plate and breast plate lines parallel to .the center body line. Also draw the elevon hinge lines on the depron.
5. Lay your motor with prop on the center body. Put the motor as far forward as possible allowing room for a plywood motor mount and depron reinforcement. Cut out the prop slot and motor slot.
6. Cut the center body along the cut to assemble lines. Take the two outside pieces and cut the two elevons (feet) and attach with 2 dubro hinges on each side.
7. IMPORTANT: The two sides are angled at 15 degrees (see rear view on plans), about a 1 to 5 ratio. I glue the center body and breast plates to one side and then the other. You now have the main box.
8. Glue the outside pieces with the elevons (feet) perpendicular to the sides. They should be canted down by 15 degrees from horizontal (see rear view).
9. Locate servos, as shown, and make cutouts in each side. Glue in position. I use music wire for the linkage and place 5 guides along each linkage to keep the wire from bending. I custom make my horns out of plywood. Throws should be as shown.
10. Mount the motor and brace as required with depron/plywood. Note that in step 12 you will be integrating the head into the motor support bracing.
11. Cut the sides along the top plate line and glue the top plate (arms) in position. Glue the top pieces you cut from the sides to the top of the top plate.
12. Cut the head along the cut to assemble line. Glue the chin piece inplace. Integrate with the motor support structure.
13. Lay your battery on the top of the head and make battery cutout. I make mine snug so the friction holds the battery inplace. Glue the head top to the top plate.
14. Make sure CG is as shown. It should be close. I use nails in the head depron to do fine balancing.If the CG is too far back, Flyguy will mush through the air and will be hard to turn. In the correct location, Flyguy will groove.
15. On the larger Flying Man, I reinforced the arms by running 1/8" carbon tube from the center of the top plate down the arm to just below the elbow and glued it to the surface. On the smaller verions this is not required.
Send me any questions you have. I'll try to get some pictures together. If it is still fuzzy, cut out the pieces in paper and walk through the build.
|Sep 14, 2011, 05:37 AM|
Joined Aug 2011
A few more thoughts...
I did not explain why the 15 degree tilt in the sides. My first Flyguy was the Capt. America. I built him with straight sides and he had some adverse yaw in turns. I thought that I'd need to add yaw control, a rudder, but after some thought realized that if I canted the elevons that I could get a resultant yaw in addition to roll when roll was commanded. On Capt America I pinched the knees together with a carbon rod and it flew and turned great. The other three were built with the 15 degree side angle.
Flying: This is the most stable platform I've flown over 46 years of RC modelling. It would be a good trainer. Get the CG in the location shown and the elevons should trim to zero reference the center body plate; maybe a little right to correct for torque. The more power you have the easier loops and rolls are to perform. With average power, 0.7 thrust to weight, loops will finish lower than initiated and barrel rolls will be safer than axial at lower altitudes. With thrust to weight greater than 0.9, loops and rolls are easy. Inverted flight is not recommended because the helpful yaw induced in upright turns is now greater adverse yaw in inverted turns. Bottom line.... fly upright and enjoy the oooohs and aaaahs. Anything new, try at altitude first or you may break your neck.
Landing: You can skim it or do a full stall belly flop, either works fine. The Flyguy will tend to tilt/roll forward on his nose after touch/flop down. I use clear tape to protect the edges of the chin and nose. If you flop, the weight of the motor can fracture the depron so on the larger Flyguys brace the motor well.
|Sep 14, 2011, 05:40 AM|
Joined Aug 2011
Flyguy on floats
Thought you might enjoy Flyguy on floats....
|Oct 10, 2011, 10:06 PM|
Joined Aug 2011
22 inch Superman details/setup
I included two pictures to give some clarity. My control setup is an AR6400 brick receiver on the left side with both board mounted servos driving the left foot elevon. On the right side I yoked together two spektrum micro servos to drive the right foot. I set the receiver for outrunner operation and I use a 7 amp esc. I run the system at 2s and have made the diode mod to cut the receiver voltage to within spec (if you don't know what I'm talking about when I refer to the diode mod, let me know). I set the receiver so that channel 6 is aileron in addition to the aileron channel. This provides a plug slot for both right side servos. I have a DX6i transmitter and set it up for elevon operation. At this point the two aileron servos on the right should act as elevon servos but one or both may have to be reversed. The elevator board servo should also act as an elevon servo. The rudder servo is still a rudder servo. To correct this and get it moving exactly like the elevator servo you have to program 2 mixes. The first is aileron to rudder and the second is elevator to rudder. Set each mix so the direction and magnitude of movement of the board rudder servo is identical to the elevator servo. Now you should have 4 elevon servos, 2 to drive each surface. For power I use the 7 amp esc powered by a 2s360mah battery. My motor is a HobbyKing APO5 3000kv (5.4g) driving a GWS 4.5 x 3 prop cut down to 3.75 inches to fit within the body. Don't hessitate to ask questions. Best.
|Oct 12, 2011, 12:04 AM|
Permission to CAD your drawings. They are for my own use only. I tend to always scale airframe to the size of prop/motor/battery i am using, and my model seems to be 100" or 8' 400" tall with 9X5 Prop.
I might have to scale down, otherwise will have a problem carrying it to the field.
|Oct 12, 2011, 03:21 AM|
Joined Aug 2011
|Oct 12, 2011, 09:07 PM|
|Oct 12, 2011, 09:41 PM|
|Oct 12, 2011, 10:47 PM|
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