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Old Nov 10, 2011, 10:53 PM
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United States, IL, Cordova
Joined Dec 2009
67 Posts
I have built and flown 3 wonders. One mod I would make is to put a solid block in the nose of the wing. the way it is built is not very strong and it will pull the wing off. Happened to my first one with veco .15 in the nose. My other 2 had os .25's for power. Not much speed diiference between the 2 but it was easier to hand launch. They where heavier of course and came in hotter then stock. The only mod these had was the solid block in the wing. I am curently trying to get around to building 2 kits that i reiceved and plan on making them into one twin! Allways wanted to try this. The plan for this is to go with 2 piped 40's for all out speed. Hope this helps, Mike
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Old Nov 12, 2011, 04:47 AM
Learning More Every Day...
Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Aug 2007
24 Posts
dylang & DT56 - I'm attaching several photos (if this works as planned) to show (dylang) several stands I've built to start & launch planes that have no landing gear. The first is a Gremlin with a Jett 35 engine and the second is (DT56) a Lanier Shrike 40.
Both stands were purpose built for each plane they hold. Both stands are completely filled with sand to add weight. With the extra weight I don't need to use a rope to hold the Gremlin (it now has an OS 25 engine) when it is running. However, as you can see in the photo of the Shrike 40, I do use a rope to hold back the Shrike.
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Old Nov 12, 2011, 04:56 AM
Learning More Every Day...
Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Aug 2007
24 Posts
Opps!! Those comments got posted before I was ready.

As I was saying... I've recently changed the way the rope attaches to the Shrike. I now loop it around the stand, not the airplane when I start the engine. As you can guess, both planes are hand-launched and both land on grass.
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Old Nov 12, 2011, 05:08 AM
Learning More Every Day...
Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Aug 2007
24 Posts
Finally, I also wanted to mention a modification to the stand for the Shrike.
One drawback to the stands are that they can be a pain to load into your car to transport to the field because they take up so much room.
When I built the stand for the Shrike I made it so I can pull the stand apart in the middle (where the extension comes up to support the nose of the airplane). I also made little "caps" to plug into the open tubing so the sand wouldn't run out while traveling to and from the field. When I get to the field I pull the "caps" off, insert the two ends of the stand and press them together. The PVC fits and sticks together well enough to make it rigid and support the plane.
I also use the Shrike stand to support a Battle Axe (combat plane). I can't find a photo of it just now, but I'll look for it and up-load it ASAP.


Man!! Is this fun!!
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Old Nov 12, 2011, 07:31 AM
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Joined Aug 2005
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Some very nice looking models M.kennedy!!!
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 08:50 AM
Learning More Every Day...
Cincinnati, Ohio
Joined Aug 2007
24 Posts
PVC Stands

Thanks DT56!!

Ok, I finall found the photos of the stand I use for my Battle Axe.
This is the same stand I use in the photos of the Shrike. Notice in the configutarion, of the stand, for the Battle Axe, the center support is turned backwards to hold down the horizontal stabilizer. But in the configuration for the Shrike, I use the center support around front to support the nose of the plane.
Another advantage of this "center stand adjustability" is that when the engine of the Shrike is running, and spinning a rather large propeller, I can hold the nose of the plane and lower the center support (to get it out of the way) and back-out the Shrike without worrying about hitting the prop or the support. I didn't actually configure the stand this way on purpose it just kind
a worked out that way.
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 01:43 AM
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NSW, Australia
Joined Feb 2011
2,093 Posts
Top stuff guys, have heard about this plane from a few people and have yet to see what one actually looks like - now I know!

Keep up the good stuff, dylang

- boingk
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 07:51 PM
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USA, NJ, Bridgewater Township
Joined Nov 2010
55 Posts
after a long winter of looking at the project and thinking i think i will make it electric. I know the thread has been quite inactive but i will be sure to finish the plane this spring and keep you guys updated...Happy Flying in this warm winter weather!
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 08:53 PM
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machinate's Avatar
Joined Jan 2010
906 Posts
If you're going electric, do you have any idea what you want to use for a motor?

Also, have you started on the fuselage yet? There are a few minor changes I'd suggest if you haven't, but they won't be a huge issue if you're already started.
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 09:09 PM
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USA, NJ, Bridgewater Township
Joined Nov 2010
55 Posts
I have no idea what motor yet but I definetly want something fast. So far I have only put in the 2 formers in the fuselage. I would love to hear your mods if you want to share. Thanks!
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Old Feb 06, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Joined Jan 2010
906 Posts
When I made mine, I lengthened the fuselage sides (cut new ones) by about an inch to keep the prop in the original location even though my motor was a lot shorter than an engine. This step isn't critical, and if I were doing it again I might do it the same, but I might just use standoffs to position everything - it allows for a lot more adjustment later on.

The big change you want to make is adding a battery hatch. I did not, and I have to remove the wing to change packs. If I build another, I will make the entire top section of the fuselage forward of the wing removable. Use a popsicle stick or dowel to pin it at the firewall, and use a magnet or canopy latch to retain it at the front former. Then you'll have great access for doing wiring and changing batteries.

As for the motor, mine uses this motor. Different color, but same specs. It works pretty well and I've GPS-clocked the thing at 75 MPH, but it's a bit light on thrust for my tastes (maybe 30 ounces; the plane weighs 31). I'd probably go for something a bit bigger, or something the same size on higher voltage. I haven't kept track of the rapidly-changing supply of Chinese motors for the last year or so, so if you're on a tight budget someone else will have to chime in. My next Wonder will probably have something like this Cobra running on 4s packs with an APC 7x6e, or if I wanted to save an extra ounce and push the motor to its limits, maybe this one on the same battery and prop.

An interesting note on the prop: I've compared dozens of power systems for Wonders and every single time, I come back to the APC 7x6e prop. My current Wonder uses that prop, both of the systems I just listed for a future Wonder use that prop, and every other option I come up with uses that prop. Voltage, current, and Kv all change, and somehow I always end up back at that same prop. Unfortunately, it's really hard to find in stores (my local shop insists that size doesn't even exist). You'll have to buy them direct from APC, which fortunately isn't much hassle.
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Old Feb 07, 2012, 07:43 PM
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USA, NJ, Bridgewater Township
Joined Nov 2010
55 Posts
Thank you for the build tips/mods i will definitely include the battery hatch but i think its too late for extending of the fuselage so ill just use standoffs as you said. The motor you suggested also seems great. Probably wanna of the best options
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Old Feb 08, 2012, 12:01 AM
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906 Posts
Which of the three motors I suggested caught your eye? The larger Cobra would be my preference.
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