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Old Sep 10, 2011, 09:33 AM
bobepine's Avatar
Joined Jun 2011
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Build Log
My First CP Heli: WASP V3 by Skyartec

Alright so I made the leap. Have not flown it yet. Had to send the TX back because I was sent a mode 1 and I fly mode 2. It will be here tomorrow. I have read a ton of info about this heli and about flying CP helis in general. I have a lot to learn yet. A LOT.

The first thing I learned is how to balance the rotor blades. I managed fine with a bit of online help, a micro scale and a short strip of scotch tape. As per the recommendation of some people who own the V3, I removed EVERY screw on the heli today, and re-installed them using blue locktite, AKA T-49 made by Align. This is supposed to keep the heli together. Parts come loose, I guess, especially on the tail assembly.

I'm pretty happy with the quality of the plastic used on the heli. I was able to tighten every screw quite tight and I did not strip a single one. I did not touch any of the screws that are set to have free moving parts. I don't want to disrupt anything that may affect the flying yet as it was tested pre-sale.

It is recommended to check everything on the heli before the maiden hover/flight. Everything was pretty secure except the aileron servo was stupidly lose. I would have lost at least one screw on the first flight. I guess it's true that checking everything off the bat is a good idea.

I also added a thin layer of epoxy to the servos joints as crash protection. I'm afraid they may split open in a gard landing or crash as this has happened to me before with a Free spirit 220a by Nine Eagles.

The tail boom support is pretty lame. It's just for looks I think as the upper bracket easily slides on the boom and can't be tighten better. I don't want to glue it as it needs to move when adjusting the tension on the belt.

As for the mechanics on this heli, it doesn't seem all that complicated. I think I can figure it out and learn how to keep it flying well. The tail trim, for example, can be manually adjusted by simply sliding the tail servo back and forth on the tail boom.

Other than that, I also painted the canopy and I built a launch pad for learning purposes. It will also be useful in the future although I usually use the top of my doghouse as a launch pad. But it has a slight angle to it so I think it's no good for a beginner CP pilot. Below are pictures of the newly painted heli and the launch pad.

I used the prefix "build log" for this thread as it will eventually be a place where I will talk about the modifications I make to the V3. The painted canopy is the first mod.

Whether you own a V3 or not, feel free to chime in with your thoughts. Advice from people who know this stuff is especially welcome as I'm sure to have a ton of questions.

Regards,

Chris





Lots of soft grass around my launch pad. I like that!
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 10:07 AM
Cranky old fart
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Germantown, WI.
Joined Oct 2007
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That little bracket that holds the rod that goes between the tail servo and tail slider is crappy. It allows the rod to flex too much and tends to bind. I would replace it with some aluminum tubing about 1/2" long. Actually, the entire rod should be replaced with piano wire or airplane pushrods. If you can find some light weight wooden blades, I would buy several sets and use them to begin with. Even plastic blades are much too strong for the head components, so minor blade strikes do a lot of head damage.

Blade holders, the frame that holds the flybar, feathering shafts and bushings, and tail rotor holders are what breaks the most.

Just an FYI for those not familiar with this heli, it uses the same head design as the Blade CP Pro, HBCP V2 and HeliMax Axe CP. So, if you have experience with any of these, it's generally applicable.
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 11:57 AM
Pontiac my other Obsession
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That Wasp looks nice Chris. Great job, I will be watching to see how it goes....all the best wishes for those first flights.
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 12:56 PM
bobepine's Avatar
Joined Jun 2011
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Originally Posted by Pontiaddict View Post
That Wasp looks nice Chris. Great job, I will be watching to see how it goes....all the best wishes for those first flights.
Thanks, mate.

Maiden flight schedules for tomorrow. Wife was out celebrating her birthday (Sept 6) with the girls tonight so I spent hours reading all kinds of information online. I learned about setting throttle curve, CP curve, Expo and D/R settings which are all available on the V3 TX. Only bummer is you have to set it up with a computer so it's a bit time consuming. On the upside, you can save as many settings as you like and go back to whatever setting worked best for you. I'm liking this a lot but it's a lot of learning and it will require a lot of testing. The main thing I'm looking forward to tinker with is stick sensitivity and rudder sensitivity. I have the ability to set the rudder sensitivity without messing with the gyro gain on this TX which is just wonderful.

I'm going to take it real easy with it. I notice that the stock settings for the TX are very tame. It's setup for a beginner and I think this is why this heli is known for being a bit more tame and easy to fly than other CP in its class. The good thing is that as I get better, I can make it more aggressive as needed. This is a whole new world for me. No wonder people swear by the better more expensive TXs. They have all these settings available in the field without needing to hook up the TX to a computer.

Do you mock around with Expo, D/R settings, throttle and CP curve settings on your helis or do you just fly them with the stock settings?
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 12:59 PM
bobepine's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balr14 View Post
That little bracket that holds the rod that goes between the tail servo and tail slider is crappy. It allows the rod to flex too much and tends to bind. I would replace it with some aluminum tubing about 1/2" long. Actually, the entire rod should be replaced with piano wire or airplane pushrods. If you can find some light weight wooden blades, I would buy several sets and use them to begin with. Even plastic blades are much too strong for the head components, so minor blade strikes do a lot of head damage.

Blade holders, the frame that holds the flybar, feathering shafts and bushings, and tail rotor holders are what breaks the most.

Just an FYI for those not familiar with this heli, it uses the same head design as the Blade CP Pro, HBCP V2 and HeliMax Axe CP. So, if you have experience with any of these, it's generally applicable.
Good suggestion regarding the tail servo rod bracket and easy to implement. I'll be right on that.

Keep the suggestions coming, please. It's very helpful to me and I appreciate the help learning the ropes.
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 01:29 PM
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Arivaca,Arizona
Joined May 2008
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Hi Bob,
Sounds like you've got a good start...
As far as stock settings...it's hard to anticipate. I run the sticks around [w/o the motor, of course] to check servo travel. That will give a vague idea. Most RTF's I've had were very tame settings from the factory. That's OK as long as you have enough authority to maneuver.

these are generalities based on my limited experience and may not apply here.

regards,
Bill
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 02:17 PM
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Joined Jul 2010
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Do you mock around with Expo, D/R settings, throttle and CP curve settings on your helis or do you just fly them with the stock settings?

Yes, I do...alter the setting that is. The reason I wanted you to check the pitch curves was to insure it was a beginner setting and not too aggressive especially in the negative pitch, both my Innovator and my Blade have less negative pitch as I have no intention to fly 3D, inverted, or loop at this time... so I keep the negative pitch lower so that I can settle the heli rather than fly it straight down. Some might disagree but I want to learn, not rebuild.

Throttle curves, No I have not changed from factory settings.

Dual Rates thats easy you can make that decision while flying... my SR is mushy in lower rates the controls are factory set that way, I find using high rates makes it actually easier to fly. You will not know until you fly, start in low rates if it is slow to respond so that you are chasing it around, TBE, etc ... try the higher rates.

expo I dont use much.. you probably will, but those are parameters you can adjust as you learn to smooth out the helis response, make better turns etc. for now just remember KISS (keep it simple stupid) thats what I always try first, which is just one more reason i like RADDS so much, if you can burn through 10-12 batteries and everything is in one piece still, you gain confidence.
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 02:21 PM
Pontiac my other Obsession
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Get some wood blades like Balr14 suggested, thats good advice, should you have a blade strike on the ground or doghouse better to sacrifice a cheap blade than transfer the shock to the head and break something there.
Dont let it stop you from your hover practice, but get em bolted on soon. Use the FG and CF blades later.
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 02:44 PM
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Hmmm.... Dual rate is set to be 3D on Normal mode or no 3D on this heli, if I understand correctly. I'll have a closer look at pitch curves, but I'll need the TX hooked up to my PC to be sure.

Expos is quite simple to set, actually, and it is what I need to adjust to get the tail sensitivity to what I'm used to without messing with gyro gain or gyro sensitivity. I have a feeling that the tail is SUPER sensitive on this bird seeing crazy pirouettes on YouTube and I'll need to tinker with that ASAP to improve my chances of doing well.

I will lower the negative picth to start with as per your advice as I do not plan to invert it just yet, either. I also would prefer to learn as opposed to rebuild. Sounds like a mighty fine approach.

As for wooden blades, I have absolutely no clue where to get a hold of compatible ones . I don't even know where to begin searching for this but I will look into it.

Thank you gents.

Regards,

Chris
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 02:55 PM
Pontiac my other Obsession
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OK, perhaps Balr will chime in he knows that TX and its functions.

ebay is always a source for some parts like blades.
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 03:01 PM
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Wish you good maiden flight.

If you find yourself uncomfortable with the headspeed, try a pitch curve like 50%,80%,88%,95%,100% makes my HK250GT like a FP and i easily and relaxing hover it in my 3mx7m livingroom.
Well no negative pitch, more positive pitch between 0 and mid throttle that's why the low headspeed.
But you should be carefull initialy to slow increase the throttle cause it will hover before mid stick unlike a conventional CP pitch curve.


Good luck.
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 03:15 PM
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Canada, AB, Edmonton
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Just a note on the canopy, looks like you did a good job but for a beginner you typically want dark or really bright colors as it's easy to lose white/silver/light blue...etc. in the sky. Another good tip is to paint one side a different color from the other so that you can always tell which side is towards you, even when flying farther away.

Whereas expo just affects sensitivity around the center of the stick, dual rates basically affect the total servo travel thereby reducing pitch and total cyclic.

Good luck on your maiden.
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 12:23 AM
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Thanks for the good wishes, guys. I was up late yesterday reading and reading about this. Just having a coffee and waking up now. The courier woke us up early this morning and he had my TX. Went back to bed. I'll practice a bit on the simulator and then I think I'll go try to hover this bad boy. Weather is sunny and the wind is very mild out there today so I think it's a go.

Also thanks for the pitch curve suggestions. In my manual, there is mentions that when changing pitch curves, it's also a good idea to change the throttle curve to match the new settings as the head speed will be influenced by the pitch curve. If the throttle curve isn't adequate for the pitch curve setup, this may result in changing the head speed and flight time. Oh, my... So much to learn.

As for the canopy color, I like the suggestion of having two colors for each side. That's brilliant, but probably ugly. I selected the color lighter because I painted a Solo Pro canopy very dark before and it was hard to see for me in my most common flying field/my backyard. There are many dark building facades in the background so a dark heli is hard to see. I'm not overly fond of the canopy color I chose. On the can it looked more silver but once applied, there is a distinctive gold tint to it and I don't like that. But hey, it still looks nicer than the plain white stock canopy with rippled and peeling stickers as it was when I unboxed it.

I will report on the maiden flight later... I'm so nervous!!!
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bobepine View Post

As for the canopy color, I like the suggestion of having two colors for each side. That's brilliant, but probably ugly.

I will report on the maiden flight later... I'm so nervous!!!
Oh ya, it's definitely ugly but... better ugly than crashed. You can play with the colors a bit, like red w/ blue stripes on one side an blue w/ red stripes on the other.

Good luck.
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 12:37 AM
bobepine's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexaglob View Post
Wish you good maiden flight.

If you find yourself uncomfortable with the headspeed, try a pitch curve like 50%,80%,88%,95%,100% makes my HK250GT like a FP and i easily and relaxing hover it in my 3mx7m livingroom.
Well no negative pitch, more positive pitch between 0 and mid throttle that's why the low headspeed.
But you should be carefull initialy to slow increase the throttle cause it will hover before mid stick unlike a conventional CP pitch curve.


Good luck.
I'm looking at my pitch+ curve now. It's set to 36, 41, 46, 51, 56 The pitch -curve is set to 20, 34, 50, 60, 69

Throttle+ curve 0, 35, 65, 83, 100
Throttle- curve 100, 90, 81, 90, 100

Any thoughts on these numbers? I want to try it like this first as it is the factory settings. All I changed is I added EXP -10 to the rudder. I'll have to test this in the weeks to come to find the settings I like but if you have recommendations, please let me know.

Regards,

Chris
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Last edited by bobepine; Sep 11, 2011 at 10:36 AM.
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