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Old Sep 17, 2011, 01:42 PM
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Thanks Dankar, but I just ordered some 1/16" and 1/8" from Tower Hobbies on eBay. I like this forum where people like to help each other.
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
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Rusty: dunno What? the origins of this Plane is It's been in my attic for 16/18 years :-) But it Flies OK with it's BW on 35 " Steel lines
That is a Goldberg lLil Jumpin' Bean kit bashed with the twin tail booms. The eliptical wing profile, cowl blocking, and stab shape nail it. The LJB had doublers on the fuse that mimic the lines that the fuse has been chopped to on that one.
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Old Sep 17, 2011, 11:45 PM
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I thought so. I suggested that may be what it was when someone posted this pic the other day. If I break the rear fuse too many more times on my Bean, it's going to morph into one of these. I bet it flies great, I love it.
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Old Sep 18, 2011, 10:56 AM
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Cox

Very cool looking. If that widow runs good plane will be fast.
Dan
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Old Sep 18, 2011, 11:44 AM
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As mentioned it's an OK flier.. no more no less. Best thing about it is it's 'pretty'
It doesn't turn Near as well as I would like.
DIY Satan (sorta) model although a bit larger and with a thicker 'diamond' airfoil leaves this one for dead.
My experiences are that airfoils Do matter.. even in 1/2A's
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Old Sep 18, 2011, 11:04 PM
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It's definitely pretty. Does it fly much different from the original Bean?
Quote:
My experiences are that airfoils Do matter.. even in 1/2A's
Yeah, they do. Just for the hell of it, the other day I tossed my bean glider style, just to see how it would fly, and it floated about 20 yards and came in for a rolling landing on the short grass. My slat winged planes would never do that(not going to try either). My only plane with a real wing is a lot more stable in a gusty wind too. It cuts through without as much need for unpredictable correction as the others.
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Old Sep 19, 2011, 10:35 AM
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Better than the Kit plan? Dunno actually.
Clearly didn't build it that way and it was a looong time ago.
A 'guess' is that it does turn better than stock.
But then I want mine to do a 4' loop.. that yellow one is about 6'/7' ?.. making inside loops 'risky'
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Old Sep 19, 2011, 06:42 PM
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Ridiculous weak puzzle of parts in the most critical area

Some of the designed parts in kits must be over complicated just to give the modeler something to do. The front nacelle with the firewall and coupling pieces that fit it to the wing are just a silly puzzle of weak parts. When my plywood arrives, soon I hope, I'm going to make a simple coupling; a smaller version of the old style nose on many of Goldberg's planes (before the Brodak clip-on), a center of balsa for cushion sandwiched with a pair of doublers, all formed to fit the LE and braced against the top and bottom bellcrank enclosure with the same thrust angle. I just have to watch the weight. I'll glue a brace against the back side of the LE spar. Weight permitting,I could run a balsa strut all the way from the center of the LE all the way to the trail edge. Hopefully it'll be tougher for all this. The whole plane will be better wood.
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Old Sep 19, 2011, 07:15 PM
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IMO yer 'overthinking' this.
Firewalls.. Never came off... regardless of how sloppily they were put on.
Only when thoroughly oil soaked was it even an issue... and by that time the model was just scrap balsa patches flying in formation.. sort of.
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Old Sep 19, 2011, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RknRusty View Post
Some of the designed parts in kits must be over complicated just to give the modeler something to do. The front nacelle with the firewall and coupling pieces that fit it to the wing are just a silly puzzle of weak parts...
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bare View Post
IMO yer 'overthinking' this.
Firewalls.. Never came off... regardless of how sloppily they were put on.
Only when thoroughly oil soaked was it even an issue... and by that time the model was just scrap balsa patches flying in formation.. sort of.
I was thinking more about simplicity, and the added strength would be a bonus.

But... I made a dummy firewall out of balsa since I don't have the ply yet, pinned it all together and looked it over. You're right, it fits fine and with and a good epoxy paint job the original design will work just fine.
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Old Sep 20, 2011, 03:00 PM
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She's coming right along

I pinned it together last night and looked it over. I think I have most the parts and pieces made and they all fit snug and at the correct angles like they're supposed to. Just waiting on my plywood now so I can make the bellcrank mount. Can't mount the nacelle until then. Waiting waiting waiting. I ordered it Friday and it shipped today.
Here is the no-glue version of it with a balsa dummy firewall:
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I had to do a little reshaping on the parts that fit over the spars because I made them slightly thicker than the kit parts, but not really noticeable to the eyeball.

The plans don't say anything about the two nubs on the end of the tail booms, but I think they are stops for the stabilator throw. That's how I'm going to mount it anyway. It would help if the side view on the plans were life-sized, but the nubs aren't even drawn on that view.
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I made a minor mistake. When I cut the notches on the stab for the hinges to fit in, I marked them at the center of the booms. Now they don't fit straight on the inside or the outside. I haven't decided if I'm going to work around it or re-make it. The latter is my least favorite option. That's tonight's project. I could mount one inside and the other outside the booms, which would make offset by 1/16" to one side or the other. That might affect the handling, maybe not. Or I could dig out some balsa to make room for the hinges to fit straight and cover that with a balsa patch. That would center the whole assembly, and I think I can do that neatly.

Still have to figure out the fuel supply. CZ10 is going to use a bladder on his. I need to buy a cigar in one of those aluminum tubes, if i can find one short enough, that would be a perfect lightweight container.

Thanks, Bare, for challenging my senses about re-designing the front nacelle.
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Old Sep 20, 2011, 04:20 PM
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I think the nibs fir the tail booms are "dearings" for the elevator hinge pins... I am in Mariposa and will look at my plans in a bit...
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Old Sep 20, 2011, 06:11 PM
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I couldn't find a definition for the word "dearing." But I forged ahead anyway. I used the one hinge that I had already fiberglassed to the elevator, and set it in place between the nubs where the elevator throw rested on each one with about the right deflection. Then I traced it with a pencil, taped off a blade at a depth of 1/16" and cut around it. Then cut lengthwise slits so it was easy to carve out with a square blade.
Here's what it looks like:
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That should do it. I'll use a little epoxy and I think it'll be strong enough
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Old Sep 20, 2011, 06:55 PM
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Bearing... Sorry iPad spell check again
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Old Sep 20, 2011, 07:19 PM
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I'm seeing that a lot lately. It obviously has "dearing" in its dictionary. It knows more words than Google.
I'm headed out to the workshop soon.
Catch you later, dear.
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