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Old Jun 29, 2012, 06:53 AM
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Arngeir Blakseth's Avatar
Molde, Norway
Joined Jan 2001
2,444 Posts
If you look closely there's a small hole drilled in the carbon shroud to get to the grub screws. If I remember correctly 2mm or 5/64" is the correct size.
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 07:24 AM
EDF Jet Jam May 2014
Robert Belluomini's Avatar
United States, KY, Crestview Hills
Joined Dec 2000
6,304 Posts
As Arngeir posted there is hole in the shroud for a 2mm allen driver. Make sure you make a small flat on shaft under one of the set screw positions. Then tighten the screws in an alternating series to make sure rotor stays square on the shaft.

Let me know when your ready to fly we can go to either field.
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 07:37 AM
FunkMaster
KentF's Avatar
United States, OH, Mason
Joined Jan 2011
189 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Belluomini View Post
As Arngeir posted there is hole in the shroud for a 2mm allen driver. Make sure you make a small flat on shaft under one of the set screw positions. Then tighten the screws in an alternating series to make sure rotor stays square on the shaft.

Let me know when your ready to fly we can go to either field.
Thanks Arngeir and Robert. I didn't see the hole but have not looked that closely. No wonder I have trouble seeing the smaller jets in the air!!

Robert, I'll get ahold of you a little later to setup a time we can meet/fly. My F-4 nose gear crapped out on me a few days ago and I'm waiting for a replacement.

Kent
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 08:00 AM
EDF Jet Jam May 2014
Robert Belluomini's Avatar
United States, KY, Crestview Hills
Joined Dec 2000
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That works for me.
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 06:45 PM
FunkMaster
KentF's Avatar
United States, OH, Mason
Joined Jan 2011
189 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Belluomini View Post
As Arngeir posted there is hole in the shroud for a 2mm allen driver. Make sure you make a small flat on shaft under one of the set screw positions. Then tighten the screws in an alternating series to make sure rotor stays square on the shaft.

Let me know when your ready to fly we can go to either field.
Well....I'm not losing my mind. I did't see any hole for a good reason. My shrowd doesn't have any hole. Anyone see a reason why I shouldn't drill my own? Can anyone that has one tell me how far in from the front of the shrowd is the hole?

Thanks in advance,

Kent
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 06:51 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Australia
Joined Mar 2006
11,456 Posts
The hole is usually somewhere in the sticker. Drill your own no problem, I would put some masking tape both sides before you drill.

Put a flat steel ruler across the face of the fan then measure down to the motor housing, you ideally want to file a notch in the top edge of the motor tube so that the adapter can drop down as close to the motor as possible.

I would drill my hole around 2mm below the front edge of the motor tube, 3-4mm drill bit gives you enough room to move and if you have a round needle file like a jewellers one, they are usually just under 4mm, you can file a nice semi circle into the side of the motor tube allowing your hex key to reach the set screws while the rotor hub is below the lip of the motor tube.

Interesting to see the fan has conventional mounts towards the rear now.
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 06:55 PM
The blade numbers go up to 11
stumax's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Aug 2002
4,380 Posts
Oh, that's odd, I always check the hole, must have slipped thru somehow. The lengthwise position of the hole should be 1mm forward of the front edge of the motor tube, so that when the rotor is on the motor and pushed back there's just enough space to get the Allen key in. Around the shroud, I find having it on the top half over to one side is convenient for access to the grubscrews when it's mounted. Use a 2.5-3mm drill and don't press too hard when it's coming thru because the carbon will splinter.

Stu.
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 07:04 PM
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BadLemon's Avatar
DeKalb,IL
Joined Dec 2008
922 Posts
Kent

My 80mm was setup by Stu himself he drilled the hole at 28.10mm from the front of the shroud. See pic's

Hope this helps


Quote:
Originally Posted by KentF View Post
Well....I'm not losing my mind. I did't see any hole for a good reason. My shrowd doesn't have any hole. Anyone see a reason why I shouldn't drill my own? Can anyone that has one tell me how far in from the front of the shrowd is the hole?

Thanks in advance,

Kent
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 09:25 PM
FunkMaster
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United States, OH, Mason
Joined Jan 2011
189 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadLemon View Post
Kent

My 80mm was setup by Stu himself he drilled the hole at 28.10mm from the front of the shroud. See pic's

Hope this helps
That helps a bunch. Thank you.

Kent
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 09:28 PM
FunkMaster
KentF's Avatar
United States, OH, Mason
Joined Jan 2011
189 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stumax View Post
Oh, that's odd, I always check the hole, must have slipped thru somehow. The lengthwise position of the hole should be 1mm forward of the front edge of the motor tube, so that when the rotor is on the motor and pushed back there's just enough space to get the Allen key in. Around the shroud, I find having it on the top half over to one side is convenient for access to the grubscrews when it's mounted. Use a 2.5-3mm drill and don't press too hard when it's coming thru because the carbon will splinter.

Stu.
Thanks Stu. Not a problem. Will make sure to go very easy on the pressure.

Kent
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 09:33 PM
FunkMaster
KentF's Avatar
United States, OH, Mason
Joined Jan 2011
189 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_RC View Post
The hole is usually somewhere in the sticker. Drill your own no problem, I would put some masking tape both sides before you drill.

Put a flat steel ruler across the face of the fan then measure down to the motor housing, you ideally want to file a notch in the top edge of the motor tube so that the adapter can drop down as close to the motor as possible.

I would drill my hole around 2mm below the front edge of the motor tube, 3-4mm drill bit gives you enough room to move and if you have a round needle file like a jewellers one, they are usually just under 4mm, you can file a nice semi circle into the side of the motor tube allowing your hex key to reach the set screws while the rotor hub is below the lip of the motor tube.

Interesting to see the fan has conventional mounts towards the rear now.
Thanks for the tips. Not sure if the mounts are newer or older. All this talk...I can't wait to get mine fired up.

Kent
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Old Jun 30, 2012, 01:25 AM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Australia
Joined Mar 2006
11,456 Posts
I filed a few of the 90mm ones when doing them and the last batch I received had a triangular notch filed for the hex key to sit in, I filed these round as the hex key catches on the edges otherwise.

Oh and the mounts are newer, they started off as small tabs, 2 each side one front one rear. But the weight is all in the rear once a motor is in, the mounts now look just like the ones I use on my alloy fans and the ones molded into wemo etc housings, much easier to mount in most models too.
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Old Jun 30, 2012, 05:41 AM
The blade numbers go up to 11
stumax's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Aug 2002
4,380 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KentF View Post
Thanks for the tips. Not sure if the mounts are newer or older. All this talk...I can't wait to get mine fired up.

Kent
The mounts on the 80-45 have always been like this, as this fan was designed to drop straight into a Habu. The 100-45's have been using these mounts ever since the 80-45 came about so I could standardise on the mounting tabs. I much prefer having 4 smaller tabs as the spacing provides a much more stable mounting arrangement, but people seem to prefer the two tabs similar to what all the other EDF manufacturers use.

Stu.
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 02:16 AM
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Castel101's Avatar
United States, OR, Portland
Joined Sep 2011
669 Posts
Does anyone know what's the recommended ESC settings for the sm80-45 with HET 1785kV and 6S? What is everyone else using? I have a CC ICE LITE 100A. Timing advance low? Frequency 12kHz? Thanks for any help.
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 09:37 AM
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Michael Paxton's Avatar
Nashville TN.
Joined Mar 2006
2,555 Posts
Yes. My 700-60-935 on 12S runs low timing and 8khz.
You'll get little to no gain from higher timing. And higher frequency will
just heat up the ESC.
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