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Old Sep 05, 2012, 08:09 PM
Team Park Pilot - Airborne
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Nov 2006
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I use the gun it and go method but no so much as to induce to much P factor. Really, its a very nice flying plane when set up well. I have no 18 flights on mine and all good ! Btw, I have NOT cut cooling holes into the fuse - All of my E conversions have significant cooling tunnels but I just could not bear to cut into this beauty. I figure there is enough air coming in though the cowl and after 6-7 minutes I land and fly something else and this has been ok. ESC is cool as its located in the air stream but Lipo gets a bit warm but not hot.

Now she on the wall taking a break as Hot liner season is here !!
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Old Sep 06, 2012, 01:09 PM
Rangers Lead the Way
Joined Mar 2010
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I have been thinking of cutting recessed vent slots in the fuse at the back of the cowl, like the Sea Fury. It looks the best IMO and works very well on my Sea Fury despite minimal spinner gap on that plane. Understand your desire not to cut into the bottom of the fuse - just seems wrong.
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Last edited by TTRotary; Sep 06, 2012 at 03:37 PM.
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Old Sep 07, 2012, 07:11 PM
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Joined Dec 2004
1,343 Posts
Tail Wheel

Man that thing is tiny! When it is installed with the wheel cover, only about 1/4 inch sticks out from the bottom of the cover. That looks like a recipe for snagging in the grass (I fly from a grass field). I might just go with a little bigger wheel and leave off the wheel cover.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 03:12 AM
Team Park Pilot - Airborne
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Nov 2006
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Aghh.... confession to make here... Mine snapped very quickly ( think it was 3rd flight ) so I had to install in in the fuse and now its not steerable but with such a massive rudder makes no issues. I have plans to install a swivel type hinge at some stage... I plan on taking the Bee out tomorrow so will cut a new video and do some in flight video like I did with my 190

FW-190 Amazing in flight Gopro HD footage !! (7 min 50 sec)
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 05:42 PM
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Building Issues

The more I build, the more I find that I don't like. As I was looking at the design and structure for mount the flying wires to the bottom of the fuse, I did not like what I saw. As you can see in the photos, two hardwood blocks as glued onto the sides of the center plywood former that runs along the center of the plane. This is a very thin former that is maybe 3/16 thick. A screw is inserted in this former, between the two blocks to attach the center strap for the flying wires. Who came up with this great idea? In my opinion, that is about the most insecure and weakest method to mount the strap that supports the landing gear! If you happen to get the screw dead center, you will sever/split the plywood former. Bad, bad, bad...

My first thoughts are to cut off the tab at the top of the former between the two blocks and "flatten" the area so that I can glue on a plywood top piece above the two blocks. Then drill a hole through the center and use a machine screw with a washer and nut on top of the plywood top piece (see sketch). This will be a better design with more strength to help support the landing gear.

Any thoughts on my modification.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 08:38 PM
Battery Puffer
Orange, California, United States
Joined Nov 2001
1,132 Posts
My cg was fine at 3.5" back and I know how to fly a tail dragger. I had a lot of speed built up into my take off before it would even lift off. I was on the ground for a lot longer than the ones in the video. I'm only spinning a 12 x 12 prop which doesn't have a lot of thrust or P factor. I believe my wire came off before I even left the ground causing a warped wing, judging by how easy it was to pull it apart by hand after post flight inspection. I ordered enough eye bolts to change out the rest of my bad ones. I am also going to put an outrunner that can swing the 16" prop like the ones in the videos I see. I will get it flying again after the changes.
Mark
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 09:09 PM
Team Park Pilot - Airborne
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Nov 2006
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Well done in any case ! How much power do you have on Tap Mark ?
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Forced View Post
Well done in any case ! How much power do you have on Tap Mark ?
Mark, you said you were going to use a Neu 1912 2y motor on 8S or 10S. What motor and battery did you use? With the 12 x 12 prop, how many watts did you see at WOT?
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Old Sep 10, 2012, 02:47 PM
Battery Puffer
Orange, California, United States
Joined Nov 2001
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Well you answered your first question in your first sentence For the rest I am using my own packs that I sell called Dinogy. There 65c and for 8s I used two 4s 4000 and two 5s 3850 for 10s. This setup was in my Kyosho Kelly which did about 135 mph on 10s. Guys these packs are every bit as good as Hyperian and TP at 40% less in cost. Check out my web site at performancerclipos.com if your interested.

Mark

Mark
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 06:47 AM
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Landing Wires

The wires attached to the bottom of the wing are technically called "Flying Wires" and the wires at the top of the wings are called "Landing Wires" (aeronautical trivia).

In looking at the Landing Wire attachment point on the fuse, there is not a lot of meat there to hold a screw. As a matter of fact, it appears that the screw on the left side of G-Force's plane is pulled out in one of the photos.

My thoughts are that these Landing Wires are not functional on this model. If I use them, I will beef up the area where they attach to the fuse OR just not use them at all.

Any thoughts?
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 07:58 AM
Team Park Pilot - Airborne
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Nov 2006
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Well spotted ! Thoses shots were for a magazine shoot and I had lost a Clovis so had to find a work around !

Yes, you someone correct. Whist the wires do provide some torsonial strength, you could fly with out them but it just would not be nearly as cool !
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 08:27 AM
Battery Puffer
Orange, California, United States
Joined Nov 2001
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The landing gear seems a little wobbly with out them. I saw the bigger model and it had a carbon rod going from the wheel well to the bottom of the fuse. I was thinking of doing something like that. It would be great to not to have anything there though.

Mark
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkF View Post
The landing gear seems a little wobbly with out them. I saw the bigger model and it had a carbon rod going from the wheel well to the bottom of the fuse. I was thinking of doing something like that. It would be great to not to have anything there though.

Mark
I will definately use the Flying Wires attached to the landing gear. Still tinkering with using 2-56 pushrod wire to take out the wobble. More news at eleven!
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 05:54 PM
Team Park Pilot - Airborne
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Australia, NSW, Sydney
Joined Nov 2006
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Given I have had , like 17 flights with my Bee, The only issues I have had have already been address by you guys so it does seem both the Tail wheel and landing wires could do with some rethought. But, apart from swapping out the standard clevis for high quality ones I could not see anything else you would want to really change.

So when it the maiden Ifly ???
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Forced View Post
Given I have had , like 17 flights with my Bee, The only issues I have had have already been address by you guys so it does seem both the Tail wheel and landing wires could do with some rethought. But, apart from swapping out the standard clevis for high quality ones I could not see anything else you would want to really change.

So when it the maiden Ifly ???
I have been too busy trying to come up with work-a rounds for the design flaws and have not really put much together yet. I only attached the rudder and tail wheel (I used a tail wheel wire from another kit). I want to get it put together for a "show and tell" at our club picnic this week but I don't think I will have it ready just for show.

Have some family issues to deal with in the next few days so it is unlikely that I will make much progress on finishing the Gee Bee R3.
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