adding ailerons to the HH scout

oded mazor · Oct 23, 2001, 04:44 PM

I've been flying the scout & pondside with the same wing (built only one wing exactly as per the instructions) for quite some time now.

I'm in the process of building the secend wing now, but want to add ailerons to it. wanted to ask for some help here especially on how & where to mount the ailerons, how large should they be, amount of dihedral needed and so on...

appreciate your advices, Oded.

GWRIGHT · Oct 23, 2001, 05:03 PM

I marked a spot on the ribs far enough back fromt he trailing edge where the rib and the upper and lower sheeting would be 3/16" thick all together (where the rib was 1/16" tall actually), and cut the ribs there. I left the inner ribs alone out to the first one outside the fuselage side. I then added a 1/16" square stick between the upper and lower sheeting at the point I cut the ribs. This gives a 3/16" thick trailing edge. I cut two ailerons from 3/16" sheet balsa, 2 inches wide (I like big control surfaces

). I mounted two HS55 servos in there, one in each side of the wing so I could mix in the radio for flaps and spoilers. I made a new dihedral brace that was flat, for zero dihedral. It would still roll slightly with rudder input and had a touch of positive stability, so "flat" is OK. I didn't use the stock wingtips, I just cut a couple ribs from 1/8" sheet to cap off the ends. OH,.. I also drilled some lightening holes in the ribs,..including the section in front of the spars,.. and glued a clear plastic candy tube in the last couple rib bays, with a hole in the wingtip. I covered it in transparent red ultracote lite. For night flying, I would insert a glow stick into each wingtip in the tube, and put a piece of clear packing tape over the tip to entrap the glow stick. Another glowstick underneath the tail of the fuselage, and it made a nice night flyer

. I still have the wing,.. probably should build a simple box fuselage for it someday.

oded mazor · Oct 24, 2001, 11:58 AM

thanks,

because of weight issues I'm thinking about using only one servo for the ailerons. although my radio is capable of all mixing, I'm not sure it's really required in this model. what do you think ?

thanks, Oded.

GWRIGHT · Oct 24, 2001, 01:21 PM

2 servos just make it easier,..no torque rods to fool with,.. and since I used HS55's, weight was of no concern. Remember I was flying the scout with 10 cells and different motors,.. 200 watts to 400 watts,.. and 12 to 14 inch props (geared) so another ounce or two really wasn't a problem either

oded mazor · Oct 25, 2001, 10:25 AM

thanks for your help,

i'll start working...

oded mazor · Nov 16, 2001, 04:46 PM

just finishef the aileron winged scout.
flies great, still floats nicely but more manouverable...

John E · Nov 16, 2001, 05:30 PM

Hey Oded, that looks pretty good - it appears that you halved the dihedral, and I can imagine how it flies.

It is almost a pity that the fus of mine is damaged, but the wings are untouched

Happy flying, John

oded mazor · Nov 17, 2001, 05:23 AM

hi John,

you are right about the dihedral, it's about half than before.
I also substituted the direct drive motor with a MM + 2.8 inline gearbox + 12x10 folder + 8 cells. the climb rate is amazing, however I do encounter two problems.
when I turn on the throttle the scout has the strongest tendancy to pull up, so strongly that I don't think down elevator would even help. second problem being the motor mount method (which always caused me problems), causing the motor to rotate circulary in its place, I have to find a cure for that...

regards, Oded.

John E · Nov 17, 2001, 01:59 PM

Hi Oded,

Halving the dihedral when moving to 4 function worked well with other models, so I'm happy to read that it did the same with the Scout.

I never had a problem with the motor rotating, I had a strip of vinyl that I superglued to the inside of the motor mounting strap, but it could equally have been a small strip of bicycle inner tube or a piece of rubber band.

The pitching up that you describe is a classic case of a model needing more down thrust, and you will be surprised that a degree or two can give quite an improvement in the handling. The problem has clearly shown itself with the increase in thrust that you now have.

Regards, John

oded mazor · Nov 17, 2001, 04:06 PM

thanks John,

I'll try your suggestions right away. I have a feeling they would cure the problems. I'll keep you posted.

Oded.

Oct 23, 2001, 04:44 PM	#1
oded mazor Registered User Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Tel Aviv-Yafo Sde Dov, Israel Posts: 1,569	adding ailerons to the HH scout I've been flying the scout & pondside with the same wing (built only one wing exactly as per the instructions) for quite some time now. I'm in the process of building the secend wing now, but want to add ailerons to it. wanted to ask for some help here especially on how & where to mount the ailerons, how large should they be, amount of dihedral needed and so on... appreciate your advices, Oded.

Nov 16, 2001, 04:46 PM	#6
oded mazor Registered User Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Tel Aviv-Yafo Sde Dov, Israel Posts: 1,569	just finishef the aileron winged scout. flies great, still floats nicely but more manouverable... Attached Thumbnails 49.4 KB · Views: 197

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Oct 23, 2001, 05:03 PM	#2
GWRIGHT Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: MELBOURNE, FLORIDA, USA Posts: 4,866	I marked a spot on the ribs far enough back fromt he trailing edge where the rib and the upper and lower sheeting would be 3/16" thick all together (where the rib was 1/16" tall actually), and cut the ribs there. I left the inner ribs alone out to the first one outside the fuselage side. I then added a 1/16" square stick between the upper and lower sheeting at the point I cut the ribs. This gives a 3/16" thick trailing edge. I cut two ailerons from 3/16" sheet balsa, 2 inches wide (I like big control surfaces ). I mounted two HS55 servos in there, one in each side of the wing so I could mix in the radio for flaps and spoilers. I made a new dihedral brace that was flat, for zero dihedral. It would still roll slightly with rudder input and had a touch of positive stability, so "flat" is OK. I didn't use the stock wingtips, I just cut a couple ribs from 1/8" sheet to cap off the ends. OH,.. I also drilled some lightening holes in the ribs,..including the section in front of the spars,.. and glued a clear plastic candy tube in the last couple rib bays, with a hole in the wingtip. I covered it in transparent red ultracote lite. For night flying, I would insert a glow stick into each wingtip in the tube, and put a piece of clear packing tape over the tip to entrap the glow stick. Another glowstick underneath the tail of the fuselage, and it made a nice night flyer . I still have the wing,.. probably should build a simple box fuselage for it someday.

Oct 24, 2001, 11:58 AM	#3
oded mazor Registered User Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Tel Aviv-Yafo Sde Dov, Israel Posts: 1,569	thanks, because of weight issues I'm thinking about using only one servo for the ailerons. although my radio is capable of all mixing, I'm not sure it's really required in this model. what do you think ? thanks, Oded.

Oct 24, 2001, 01:21 PM	#4
GWRIGHT Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: MELBOURNE, FLORIDA, USA Posts: 4,866	2 servos just make it easier,..no torque rods to fool with,.. and since I used HS55's, weight was of no concern. Remember I was flying the scout with 10 cells and different motors,.. 200 watts to 400 watts,.. and 12 to 14 inch props (geared) so another ounce or two really wasn't a problem either

Oct 25, 2001, 10:25 AM	#5
oded mazor Registered User Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Tel Aviv-Yafo Sde Dov, Israel Posts: 1,569	thanks for your help, i'll start working...

Nov 16, 2001, 05:30 PM	#7
John E Registered User Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Bristol, England Posts: 2,075	Hey Oded, that looks pretty good - it appears that you halved the dihedral, and I can imagine how it flies. It is almost a pity that the fus of mine is damaged, but the wings are untouched Happy flying, John

Nov 17, 2001, 05:23 AM	#8
oded mazor Registered User Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Tel Aviv-Yafo Sde Dov, Israel Posts: 1,569	hi John, you are right about the dihedral, it's about half than before. I also substituted the direct drive motor with a MM + 2.8 inline gearbox + 12x10 folder + 8 cells. the climb rate is amazing, however I do encounter two problems. when I turn on the throttle the scout has the strongest tendancy to pull up, so strongly that I don't think down elevator would even help. second problem being the motor mount method (which always caused me problems), causing the motor to rotate circulary in its place, I have to find a cure for that... regards, Oded.

Nov 17, 2001, 01:59 PM	#9
John E Registered User Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: Bristol, England Posts: 2,075	Hi Oded, Halving the dihedral when moving to 4 function worked well with other models, so I'm happy to read that it did the same with the Scout. I never had a problem with the motor rotating, I had a strip of vinyl that I superglued to the inside of the motor mounting strap, but it could equally have been a small strip of bicycle inner tube or a piece of rubber band. The pitching up that you describe is a classic case of a model needing more down thrust, and you will be surprised that a degree or two can give quite an improvement in the handling. The problem has clearly shown itself with the increase in thrust that you now have. Regards, John

Nov 17, 2001, 04:06 PM	#10
oded mazor Registered User Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Tel Aviv-Yafo Sde Dov, Israel Posts: 1,569	thanks John, I'll try your suggestions right away. I have a feeling they would cure the problems. I'll keep you posted. Oded.