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Old Sep 03, 2011, 08:32 AM
Registered User
York, England
Joined Jan 2010
455 Posts
Subscribed, and I promise to behave myself on here

Alas, work and other things has taken over (as usual), and mine is back in her box I'll probably be taking info rather than giving much, but I'll try my best to contribute on here.

Time to open the box again methinks
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 08:36 AM
Oh no, not again!
jhspring's Avatar
United States, LA, Carencro
Joined Dec 2005
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Let's see. Ming specs an 11" prop, so there may indeed be clearance issues with the 13/9/3, but then the blades can always be cut down if needed. I checked the adapters and while the thread on my eBay motor is okay, the adapter is nearly 2 cm shorter, which might be problematic. My reason for not going with the FMS motor (other than my usual suspects were all out-of-stock) was that it requires 4S to get enough pitch speed. I may still go there.

I am not going to try a moving canopy on this build. There is a great deal of internal reinforcement around the cockpit/wing saddle and access would be a real problem. I'll content myself with leaving it open. Actually, access for a lot of things is going to be problematic and may involve surgery. Ming really noodled this out. There is an air intake under the nose with a concealed exit under the radiator - very slick. The gear are extremely nice with moulded oleo struts to which the doors mount. Following Ivor's suggestion, I checked and 2.5" wheels fit, so I have a set of Dubro Treaded Lite wheels coming from Tower next week.

Checking the included spinner against my Zero, I think the Zero prop will look really good on this one, so I am going to start with that and back into a motor. The FMS adapter is really nice, b/c it is machined with a hex base which fits a hex cut out in the spinner. In other words, when you hold the prop still you lock the shaft, makes tightening the prop nut easy, unlike many of my other planes.

I find myself slightly confused by the instructions regarding the retracts. From the diagram, it looks like the retract is to be screwed under the ply retract plate and then the lot glued in. That would make it impossible to remove if damaged, so the diagram must be misleading.

Still arguing with myself as to whether to build it mostly stock, or goof around for a bit and add the two inner flap panels. I have a nice driver's bust, have to make a body for him and of course I need a cockpit. Okay, got some honey-dos before I can get to the shop.

Jeff
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:19 AM
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Hong Kong
Joined Jun 2002
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Thank Jeff!

Ming Lou
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 12:01 PM
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fuelsguy's Avatar
Seattle
Joined Dec 2001
1,436 Posts
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for starting the build thread, looking forward to seeing it unfold.
It really is a nice model.
On the subject of flaps, it looks really easy to move the aft wing bolts inboard a bit to get room for the inboard flaps.
I started thinking about making the flap trailing edge a little more scale like. I think a few strips of 1/64" ply inset into both the flap and trailing edge and trimmed out to the wing trailing edge would make a nice mod. Then add the inboard flaps.
The FMS F6F has a nice way of tying the inboard flaps to the outboard ones, just two plastic pieces with a sliding pin between them.
All for now,
Ivor
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 01:26 PM
Glow 😡 no no no
Australia, SA, Evanston Park
Joined Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhspring View Post
Still arguing with myself as to whether to build it mostly stock, or goof around for a bit and add the two inner flap panels. I have a nice driver's bust, have to make a body for him and of course I need a cockpit. Okay, got some honey-dos before I can get to the shop.

Jeff
That problem is easy to solve, build this one stock and buy another one and goof around.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 02:04 PM
Your Pilot Ryan
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United States, IN, South Bend
Joined Nov 2008
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Mailman left notice, I chase him down, I receive my hurricane, priceless.

Looks great, excited to do a kit again. Jeff I noticed the same thing bout the etracts. Guess I'll wait and see. I'm thinking I'll use magnets on the scoops for when I have to fly off grass and belly land. I can leave them off. Super nice kit, looks to be even better designed than the sbd. Awesome job Ming!
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 02:10 PM
Oh no, not again!
jhspring's Avatar
United States, LA, Carencro
Joined Dec 2005
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My pleasure, Ming Lou. The plane was certainly worth the wait.

Ivor, you're my scale measuring stick. Never thought about moving the wing bolts, I was just going to have the inboard flap cover the bolt head. As I play with the flaps on my BC Blenheim, I made the surfaces of 20 thou fiberglass, extend that to the wing TE and it looks fine. I used that pin in slot method for the inboard flaps on my PZ 109, fairly easy to do and works fine.

Regards,
Jeff

PS, aeromaniac, even my usually patient wife would lynch me if I bought two at once. I have to crash one to replace one, which usually isn't too hard in my case. J
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 04:18 PM
Joined Jul 2007
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How do ya get the lipo in and out?
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 04:49 PM
flying since 2000
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Winterthur ZH, Switzerland
Joined Mar 2009
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there is a battery hatch in front of the cockpit
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:36 PM
Glow 😡 no no no
Australia, SA, Evanston Park
Joined Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhspring View Post
PS, aeromaniac, even my usually patient wife would lynch me if I bought two at once. I have to crash one to replace one, which usually isn't too hard in my case. J
My modelling budget controls what I buy, so sometimes i will get more than one plane, currently I have 4x Hobbyking Parkjets lol.
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 04:33 AM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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Joined Jun 2009
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Rudder MOD.

Just finished scrubbing with windex applying polycrylic on all the foam pieces. Wooden pieces (retract mount) has been hot glued on the e-retract bay.

Added more deflection on the rudder (now 35deg), since I love knife edge flying as well. Added 2 nylon pinned hinges on top and bottom of rudder.

My motor set-up is a 770KV motor (http://www.hobbypartz.com/monsterpow...ess-motor.html) purchased a while back for this project. This motor has tons of power, and outperforms the the 600KV and 550KV stock motor used by FMS 57" warbirds ( http://www.hobbypartz.com/monsterpow...ProductReviews ) .

If anyone has details on this 3blade prop/spinner on this 47" SPITFIRE, please post, will be much much appreciated. I'm looking for possible 3blade set-up.

Thanks again Ming,
Spyro
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 09:58 AM
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Warbird@home's Avatar
The Netherlands, NB, Hapert
Joined Apr 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
Rudder MOD.

Just finished scrubbing with windex applying polycrylic on all the foam pieces.
Hi Spyro37, could you explain waht you mean? Im having a senior moment right now.....I have the Hurricane from Ming...looks nice ..

Thanks

Ray
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 10:08 AM
Oh no, not again!
jhspring's Avatar
United States, LA, Carencro
Joined Dec 2005
5,301 Posts
Piddling

Spyro, I wish I had one of those motors, HobbyPartz is again out of stock indefinitely. I discovered that the FMS prop adapter will fit perfectly on the Turnigy 3548. The ones I have are 1100 kV, too much, but I can get an 800kV if push comes to shove.

I should point out that one really nice design feature of the kit is that Ming has moulded not just the flaps, but all the control surfaces with live hinges, which means that if you want to build it stock, you can be in the air quickly and with none of the hassle of installing control surfaces. I personally am a little leary of the live hinges, so I am re-doing all mine with hinge points. Personal preference.

I cut the rudder loose and used a piece of cf strip to reinforce and stabilize the rudder horn. Put the tail light in and the pin hinges. I went back through my stuff and found the large pics Ming had posted of the assembly and if you look carefully, where it shows the gear installation, the gear sits on top of the wooden plate, as one would expect. I put a couple of mahogany strips on the underside of each plate to give the mounting screws more to bite into. Probably unnecessary, but I tend to be pretty hard on landing gear, so belts and braces. Wired up my big LED's for the landing lights, trying to figure how to manage wing tip lights and fuse ID lights.

As I said, mostly just puttering while I wait on supplies. Jeff
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 11:30 AM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
Spyro37's Avatar
Joined Jun 2009
2,151 Posts
Hi Ray, foam has that oily release agent from the mold (to form the foam plane). If you paint directly without prepping the foam, the paint may not stick well and could peel off easily. On some areas, I used a 500 grit sanding paper & windex, but some areas, where there are rivets, I did not sand them , I used some cloth (or maybe paper towel would work too), to scrub off those oily stuff. CLICK my user ID, and you'll see Ming's 737 that I just built, and might helpful on your build, videos included for demonstration. The horizontal stab video has the polycrylic application.

Hi Jeff, I don't think HobbyPartz will sell them again, it's been too long ago since they last stocked the monster motors. It's strange that there is a high demand for it (always sold out as soon as the get in stock), but din't see it again in stock for a while. Are the leading edge lights white and wing tips are green and red? Are they steady, or they strobe? PLEASE advise.

Thanks,
Spyro
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Last edited by Spyro37; Sep 04, 2011 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 11:47 AM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
Spyro37's Avatar
Joined Jun 2009
2,151 Posts
Paint color
Can somebody please advise the Tamiya paint colors on these pictures.
Thanks,
Spyro
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