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Old Sep 02, 2011, 01:59 PM
Mad Basher
Joined Jul 2011
157 Posts
Help!
Diff Locking Help and other questions

I want to lock my rear diff for my Sprint 2 Drift, is there a diff locking kit that I could buy?? I don't want to stick epoxy or JB Weld in there, those are one time things. And if I fill it up with putty or playdoh, those are supposed to slip a little and they're super hard to get out afterwards.

Also, what is a direct drive spool? These are supposed to replace the rear diff, so obviously you can't lock it. I tried googling this but nothing came up. Would you want a direct drive spool or a locked rear diff?

Thinking about installing a one-way, this will allow the rear wheels to do all the braking and make the front wheels 'freewheel' am I correct? The one that HPI offers looks good, but it doesn't say it can be installed on the Sprint 2 Drift. Plus, it says I need part #A855 and I will need one set for the front and rear. I only want to install it in the front. Also, is there something that is better quality and/or cheaper?

Thanks for your help.
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Old Sep 02, 2011, 03:22 PM
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Canada, ON, Markham
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Is it a gear diff? Just fill it with more grease than needed, that'll pretty much lock it.

I did that accidentally with my TT01ED. It still turns if you turn the rear wheels in opposite directions, but if you just turn one wheel it'll turn all 4 wheels before turning the other rear wheel in the opposite direction.

You're correct about what a one way will do, it'll let you lock up the rears but maintain steering control.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 12:35 AM
Mad Basher
Joined Jul 2011
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Yes, it is a gear diff.

My LHS recommends NOT to lock the diff, they only lock the diffs of rock crawlers? Why should I NOT lock the diff? Also, will filling it up with putty ruin the diff?

And I can get diff grease online or from my LHS, right?
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 07:40 AM
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Did the LHS know you were talking about a drift car? If you lock the diff on a non drift car, it will turn like crap (will want to either go straight or spin).

Your LHS will definitely have diff grease. It won't take much to make it too tight to turn easily.

Before doing anything, why do you want to lock it though? Are you having trouble with getting it to slide? Unless the inside wheel is unloading and making it really hard to slide I wouldn't bother.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 12:34 PM
Mad Basher
Joined Jul 2011
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The LHS definitely knew I had a drift car, I bought it from them.

Sometimes I have trouble performing continous slides, so I thought locking diff would help.

What do you think about a one-way?
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 10:43 PM
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To be honest, I don't see how a one way will help with drifting? I haven't had a drift car for long, but I don't see how breaking during a drift will help much?

Unless you're having trouble sliding because the inside rear wheel is unloading I don't think a locked rear diff (or spool) will help with that.

Is it just on some surfaces, or is it pretty consistent?
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Old Sep 04, 2011, 04:32 PM
Mad Basher
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I (think) the one-way makes the front free wheel, making the back wheels do all the braking. So whiles doing a drift, just touch the brake, and the back end will slide out a bit more.

Problem is the one HPI offers seems to fit ONLY on the nitros.

It is pretty consistent, sometimes the drift will end automatically.
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 08:30 AM
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You're right about what a one way does, my question was if you'd actually ever use the brakes while sliding or not. I find on concrete and pavement I don't have to even think about the brakes.

I looked into it more, and the guys that seem to favor front one ways and locked rears are into very precise slow speed drifting.

I'm still just learning how to slide nicely, so I find that a quick stab of throttle gets the rear out very easily. Mine will slide easily at any speed, and it's just running the black can 540 that Tamiya put in the box.
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Old Sep 05, 2011, 01:39 PM
Mad Basher
Joined Jul 2011
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I probably would use the brakes, I'm just that sorta guy. Also I think the camber on the rear end is too dramatic, maybe this is the reason why the slides end automatically: Not enough tire is touching the ground.
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 07:20 AM
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My fronts are as close to 0* as I can eyeball, and the rears have about 0.5* negative. I've got wear across the full tire on all four corners, so it's not extreme at all.

When you say the drift ends automatically, is it spinning out, or getting traction and stops sliding?
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 10:24 AM
Mad Basher
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Getting traction and stops sliding.

I think my rear tires are set at 7-9 negative (getting a camber gauge soon) and the front tires are set at 5-7 negative.

and the front tires are toed out approx 3 degrees.
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 01:16 PM
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That's a huge amount of camber, is the outer part of the tire ever touching the ground?

If it gets grip and stops sliding, that's not because you have too much camber.

How fast are you going when that happens? Mine will spin the tires at almost any speed going straight, and if I turn even a little bit with power on it'll drift and never catch traction.
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 06:06 PM
Mad Basher
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The outer part of the tire never touches the ground. This happens at about 50%-100% trottle.
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 09:31 PM
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How fast is it going though, not throttle input? I can go almost 0mph at 100% throttle with mine.

How well it'll slide depends on how much faster the wheels are going than they would be if it wasn't spinning them.
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 01:07 PM
Mad Basher
Joined Jul 2011
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I have no idea, I would say 10mph-15mph?

It drifted better at stock stats, should have never adjusted the camber and toe out.
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