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Old Oct 15, 2011, 01:30 PM
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United States, ID, Rexburg
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Isn't there a tech shop (with tools, milling machines, 3-d routers etc.) which will also have classes to show members how to use the tools? I think Aimee said she is a member of one in Seattle (not exactly sure how far from Edmonds that is and whether that might be a help to you or not. Another idea might be to see if the local high school has a machine shop and possibly night classes? Or just contact the instructor or a small machine shop ower see if he might tutor you. Lastly they have classes for almost anything online (youtube), is there a class for milling machines?
Foo
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Old Oct 15, 2011, 01:42 PM
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Ariel WA
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Mike

I had a combo machine and did not like it. If you are in milling machine mode and need to turn a part for some reason you have to tear down your set up and change modes. Then you have to change modes again to get back to milling. Seperate machines work much better.

Because of the size of you builds you do not need a large machine. The small mill you see in the photos I sent to you is from Harbor Frieght. Little machine shop sells the same machine but better quality

Dave
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Old Oct 16, 2011, 02:21 PM
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United States, FL, Sarasota
Joined May 2011
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Impressive work. Im following this one thanks for sharing with us.
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Old Oct 22, 2011, 12:42 AM
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Preston Work

I'm experimenting with a new technique to building doors. First I photographed an actual door on the W.T. Preston. Then I cropped and cleaned it up and removed any keystoning in the image. I then photo-reduced the image to match the 1/32d scale of my model. I then printed two images of the door. These are 3-panel wood doors with windows. To reproduce the panels, I cut out the paneling on the top door image and glued the two door images together. I then cut out the central paneling part of the image, trimmed it and re-glued it to the stack. The door lock and knob area were cut from the bottom image and glued on top of the same area on the top image to give it depth. I then drilled a small hole where the doorknob goes and glued in a small brass nail to represent the doorknob.

I end up with a photo-real door complete with relief. For several of the 14 doors, very small Micromark brass hinges will be installed to allow these doors to open and close revealing switches behind them for turning off and on the receiver/power and lighting control features. I tried building doors out of wood, but they didn't look right. The photographic doors will be over-sprayed with clear paint to protect them against moisture. Photos of finished door tomorrow.
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Last edited by hookpilot; Oct 22, 2011 at 12:50 AM. Reason: Add photo
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Old Oct 22, 2011, 11:08 AM
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United States, ID, Rexburg
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Having built a few raised panel door (that one on Preston is nice, looks like someone hand built it), had a random thought (I know my mind is much too small to be out wandering alone without supervision LOL) where do you find a little teeny router bit to make the grooves for the rails and stiles, then then where do you find a bit to cut the raised panels?
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Old Oct 22, 2011, 07:38 PM
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Micro router?

Dremel makes some very small bits that could work if you had an X Y Table for your drill press. Dentists also might have drills small enough to do this. A small CNC milling machine could make short work of this project too. If you could make one very good one, use it for a mold to cast more. Of course, you'd have to do some fancy painting to make it look like the actual door.
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Last edited by hookpilot; Oct 22, 2011 at 07:39 PM. Reason: add more
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Old Oct 22, 2011, 09:07 PM
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United States, ID, Rexburg
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Hook, I was just joking! but that thought did run through my mind about how you were going to replicate a raised panel door in scale.

Just spitballing you could also 3-d print it then paint it also. Or if you had small enough stepers on it use a 3-d router and cut it from from something solid (PVC?)
Foo
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 11:47 PM
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Preston build moving along

Over the past two days I've just about finished wiring up the main deck internal and external lights. When this is done, I can glue the main deck roof in place. My lighting control system arrived from China today. I've started laying out where it will live in the hull. More on this little gizmo in the next update. I've finally found a place to cut the rings for the paddlewheel and the hubs and that will be done as soon as they get my brass sheet. They do water jet cutting. Soon I can retire that ugly plywood paddlewheel placeholder.

Many detail parts are moving toward completion. Doors are half done. A Frame is 3/4 done. Steam donkey is half done and now runs.
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 12:11 AM
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PDX, OR
Joined Dec 2002
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The white led are going to be pretty bright, are you using a warm white LED to
give them an incandescent bulb color?
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Umi_Ryuzuki View Post
The white led are going to be pretty bright, are you using a warm white LED to
give them an incandescent bulb color?
I bought the warm white LEDs. I'll give them a try. If they are too bright, out comes the airbrush. Originally I wanted to go with incandescents, but all the tugboat guys in the club suggested I try LEDs. We'll see. Preston represents 100-year old technology. The pilot house is stark in its absence of radar, fathometer, knot meter, radios, and windshield wipers. The captain communicated with the engineer via voice tubes and bells. This is a real ARMY boat. I love it.
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Old Oct 26, 2011, 05:03 PM
r/c ships and workboats
bellingham, wa
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looking good Mike as I can almost smell the salt air around Anacorets looking at this.
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 10:57 PM
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Cold Weather=Great building time

Oct. 30 in the shop saw good progress on wiring up the lights. After an hour of various button-pushing combinations, I got the wireless remote light control system ordered on-line working. This is going to be very cool. The thing consists of a small 12-button transmitter operating on 450mHz with a range of 3000 feet, and an equally small 12 relay receiver able to switch 3amp circuits of just about any voltage. I'll be able to model all possible US Coast Guard lighting configurations used by Preston, mostly Nav Rule 27. I'll be able to individually switch on and off interior cabin lights (8 lamps), exterior deck work lights (18 LEDs), turn on and off and rotate the two search lights and set the nav and running lights as required (11 LEDs of these).

I've selected 12V as the ship's standard power. A small 1.6Ah 12V gel cell battery sits in the forward hull. The main power is turned off and on via a small servo switch controlled by the Spektrum DX 6, Channel 6. RC power is manually turned on using a small switch hidden in a bollard on the bow.

The fun continues...

Mike in Edmonds
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 08:48 AM
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United States, ID, Rexburg
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Just being me, how are you going to put in the windows with the leads for the searchlights in the frames?

The doors look great! I will have to remember that trick with the little brass nails for the doorknobs!
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Old Nov 01, 2011, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fooman2008 View Post
Just being me, how are you going to put in the windows with the leads for the searchlights in the frames?

The doors look great! I will have to remember that trick with the little brass nails for the doorknobs!
Foo
I haven't run the searchlight wires through tiny holes just above the window yet. You can see the holes just under the searchlight support beam. Doing that this afternoon. All wires will be hidden running down to the lighting controller on the cabin deck just below.

Mike
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