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Old Sep 10, 2003, 10:50 PM
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Building a L.E.G. Me-109

First let me apologize or thank, depending on the way he feels about it, Brian Courtice for totally plagiarizing his awesome thread idea about detailing a build of one of the more popular currently selling planes.

I have noticed a few people posting and wondering about the LEG PSS style kits that are coming out and was just about ready to build my ME-109 and decided to make it a thread allot like the one Hawaiian Brian did about the electron.

This isnít my first Leading Edge Glider kit to build and it isnít even my first LEG Me-109. My first one (the notorious 60 oz foamy ) was one of my favorite ships ever and definitely a stepping stone for entering the world of the fast glass planes.

I raced it at the first ISR foam race but unfortunately she was too heavy for the first couple of heats and due to my pilot skills (or lack of) ended up breaking the tail off, it was repaired shortly after and I flew it every chance I got. It was repainted a couple of times and repaired several more. It was still my first PSS style plane and coming in at four ounces under four pounds she eventually wore out with all the crashes and what I like to call "controlled crashes" (otherwise known as landings).

And this will be its replacement.

Please feel free to chime in with questions or comments.
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:02 PM
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This build is not per the instructions, not because I am a rebel, but because Jack was out of them and told me he was picking them up tonight but I felt confident enough to continue without them.

I always start with the wings because these need to be built straight and perfect and most of my enthusiasm comes at the beginning of a new project.

LEG has a interesting scarf joint used in all their kits, there is about eight ways to line up the joint but only one will give you the 24 inches needed on both sides of the joint. I use 5 min epoxy on this with a clamp on it while it dries, make sure it is on a flat surface while it is drying also:
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:05 PM
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Here is another closer shot. I will play with the scarf joint until I measure at least 24 inches each way after the peak in the middle and then draw a line across both to line up after the epoxy is applied.
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:08 PM
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While the epoxy is drying I use a T-bar sander and gently sand off the goo left by the foam cutter on my cores.
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:12 PM
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You are going to keep this one a little lighter than that brick you made last time right?

My Me-109 is 37 ounces see if you can beat that!

TFLG
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:19 PM
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After the epoxy has dried, I sand the joint to remove any excess that might have seeped out. You can see the scarf joint was lined up correctly because there is an inch or so sticking out the tips of the wings, if it were incorrect there would be one that would be an inch or so short from the end. This is a very strong joint and I have only seen one break and it was my own during the ISR combat event on my LEG Hellcat that won the first round with five kills!

I used 3M-spray glue on the spar as well as in the spar slot on the wing. I let them both sit for 5 min before sticking them together, it is important to note that the spar goes on the BOTTOM of the wing.
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by TFLG
You are going to keep this one a little lighter than that brick you made last time right?

My Me-109 is 37 ounces see if you can beat that!

TFLG
I was hopeing to be around that area with this one.

Tawg
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:27 PM
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On the trailing edges of the wing there are two types of wood, one being a piece of spruce for strength and rigidity and a second one of balsa for the hinges on the ailerons to have some meet to grab on to. I glue these two together with thin CA and clamps.
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:34 PM
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I spray 3M on the trailing edges of the cores and then the balsa/spruce stiffener and set them aside for a few minutes to get tacky while I start slotting the aileron control rod braces.

Here is a tip : the little metal file you see there on the glass has a handle that is knurled and happens to be the same diameter as the sleeve on the control rods, I use the knurled handle and "file" out the space where this sleeve sits and it always turns out perfect.
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:42 PM
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Now that the trailing edge pieces have had time to get tacky, I press them on and then use epoxy to put the aileron control rod holders on. I use epoxy instead of CA because its easier to put the glue exactly where you want it, with CA it spreads and can get into your sleeve and hang up your throws.
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:50 PM
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I used a band saw and cut the excess wood hanging off both ends and decided to leave the tips of the wings square, the instructions have templates to make round tips, but I like the looks of the square ones better myself plus the real ME-109s had both at different times. Put a layer of spackle on both sides and set it aside for awhile.

Now comes the part people seem intimidated by, carving the fuse. If I had instructions there would be templates in there to direct the shape of the plane, but I decided to "wing" it and go from memory.
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:52 PM
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Well give me a sharp blade and twenty minutes and this is what I end up with before sanding.
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:54 PM
Feeling FrSky
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Two words: 60 grit
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Old Sep 10, 2003, 11:57 PM
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And this is what I get after another 20 minutes of sanding with an orbital sander and block sander with 100 grit papers. Itís starting to really take shape.

Carving a fuse should not be that intimidating, use a brand new sharp blade and only cut thin layers at a time. Worry about the final shape with the sanding, not the carving.
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Old Sep 11, 2003, 12:01 AM
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that is it for tonight. There is about a total of two hours involved to this point. There will be more tomorrow. I am sure I will dream about epp now that I spent this much time with it right before bed good night

Tawg
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