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Old Dec 11, 2012, 03:06 PM
Micro Menace
Joined Aug 2012
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Originally Posted by jcmors View Post
If you decide to go this route, HeliRCStore has a buy 2 get one free servo deal for the Genius CP right now. I bought a set myself around a month back. I have yet to strip a servo but for the price, I couldn't pass it up

Jim
Thanks, I'll look into that. I was looking at the link LittleMo posted and it shows some HobbyKing servo that can be modded to work w/ the Genius. Only $4 each. Great price, but if I can get a good deal on the oem replacement I'd prefer p-n-p. Thanks again for the heads-up.
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 10:16 PM
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United States, TX, Cypress
Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by LittleMo View Post
Nice find, it's not even a MOSFET, just a regular 3906 transistor, one of the most common.

I wonder what that has to do with the tail. Anyway, if it fixes it then great!
It worked! After 2 hours of painstakingly soldering a grain of rice size transistor with 3 legs to the board I finally got it right. It was a tight fit, and I ended up using conductive glue (radio shack (works great)) to connect a leg that I could not soldered down. I am happy to say the least. Now when I get my V2 for Christmas I will have two genies.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 12:30 PM
Multitotor Pilot/Web Designer
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United States, MI, Cadillac
Joined Apr 2011
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I might have lost the small allen wrenches that are used to tighten/loosen the feathering shaft on the Genius. Does anyone know where I can get replacements for these?
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 01:25 PM
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United States, VA
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Originally Posted by RaymondM View Post
I might have lost the small allen wrenches that are used to tighten/loosen the feathering shaft on the Genius. Does anyone know where I can get replacements for these?
I can't be much help as to where to find them but I measure them at around 0.87mm (0.0034in). Or thereabouts. I guess that would make them 1mm or maybe 1/32in (more likely metric I would think). I have heard of 0.9mm size so I guess it could be that.

Smallest common size is 1.5mm or 1.27mm (Harbor Freight). Maybe eBay, Amazon, Aliexpress, etc. Sorry, not much help.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 01:28 PM
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Kingdom of Sweden, Västra Götaland County, Lindome
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0.9mm or 0.035 in Allen key.
There are MIP , Hudy and other brands available.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 01:30 PM
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United States, MI, Cadillac
Joined Apr 2011
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Thank you guys for the info, I will check out these places.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 03:10 PM
Micro Menace
Joined Aug 2012
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I'm sure you guys know this already, but someone asked about using a v911 tail motor a few posts back. IDK about the motor (the v911 is a little shorter then the Genius) but, the v911 tail boom is a direct replacement. It's a little longer but that's not an issue. And the stock Genius motor fits right into the holder on the v911 boom. So if you split a boom but the motor is good, a spare v911 boom will do the trick.

Also , if you break the tail fin, a v911 fin can be glued onto the Genius boom.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 03:41 PM
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United States, VA
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Originally Posted by Budasac View Post
I'm sure you guys know this already, but someone asked about using a v911 tail motor a few posts back. IDK about the motor (the v911 is a little shorter then the Genius) but, the v911 tail boom is a direct replacement. It's a little longer but that's not an issue. And the stock Genius motor fits right into the holder on the v911 boom. So if you split a boom but the motor is good, a spare v911 boom will do the trick.

Also , if you break the tail fin, a v911 fin can be glued onto the Genius boom.
Thanks! That was me I think

My Genius tail motor is exactly the same size as my V911. They're both 6mm by 15mm motors (or close). However, obviously there could be differences in the windings or whatever. I will definitely try a V911 motor if my GCP tail goes out though. I read somewhere that someone used a V911 main motor in the Genius and it had more power than the stock. I'm going to try that too if/when my GCP motor dies.

As for the tail boom, I have about 3 meters of 2mm carbon fiber tube that I will cut and use if I ever break a boom. This stuff is way cheaper than buying a stocker boom, only like $0.32 for a new boom when you DIY. You're right, it will work for the Genius or V911.

Edit:
Sorry, for some reason I had my micro-quad motors on my mind, I meant 6mm by like 15mm for the GCP and V911 tail motor, not 716. They're both the same, at least on my birds.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 04:30 PM
Micro Menace
Joined Aug 2012
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Has anyone messed around with the Gyro settings on the TX. I have the gyro set to the Mix switch 60/70/85 just to experiment. I don't notice alot of difference other then a jittery tail at the highest setting. I think the factory setting was 70. Just curious what others have experienced. Also, I thought I had read some posts that the Aux 2 dial could be used for the gyro on the Devo 7. I didn't see that as an option in the menu though.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Budasac View Post
Has anyone messed around with the Gyro settings on the TX. I have the gyro set to the Mix switch 60/70/85 just to experiment. I don't notice alot of difference other then a jittery tail at the highest setting. I think the factory setting was 70. Just curious what others have experienced. Also, I thought I had read some posts that the Aux 2 dial could be used for the gyro on the Devo 7. I didn't see that as an option in the menu though.
I keep forgetting to post about that in my devo for 9x thread. I did a whole bunch of testing with the transmitted gyro setting. I found that basically it acts like the "P" setting from PID on quads.

Essentially the higher it is the stronger the gyros will hold but it also makes the heli slower to respond to stick input. Too high and like you said it will jitter or "hunt" a lot, especially noticeable in the tail. A very low value will make the heli response really fast with stick input but the gyros won't hold as well (tail will blow out, roll angles won't hold as well, etc). There are advantages to setting it both higher and lower so I think it depends on your personal style. For really fast acrobatics it needs to be set lower. For a more stable heli set it higher.

You can not go below 50% on a 0-100 scale or it will turn the gyros off (below 0% on a -100 to 100 scale like the 9x).

I thought about putting it on a pot on TX so any value could be set but then I started thinking that's probably not a good idea because if it's off a little it can make the heli respond different than what you expect.

I also don't know how this transmitted gyro setting interacts with the gyro pots on the RX board. The pots on the RX board may act like a "rate" setting on the gyros which in effect lowers the transmitted gyro sensitivity with high stick input.
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 06:20 PM
Micro Menace
Joined Aug 2012
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Thanks Mo. That makes sense and confirms what I found. I had read about the 50% gyro thing but.....I had to experiment anyway. I set it for 45%. When I flipped the switch it spun violently until I hit TH. So yes, bad things happen if you go below 50.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 12:04 AM
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Philippines, Calabarzon, San Pedro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budasac View Post
Has anyone messed around with the Gyro settings on the TX. I have the gyro set to the Mix switch 60/70/85 just to experiment. I don't notice alot of difference other then a jittery tail at the highest setting. I think the factory setting was 70. Just curious what others have experienced. Also, I thought I had read some posts that the Aux 2 dial could be used for the gyro on the Devo 7. I didn't see that as an option in the menu though.
I didn't notice either until someone pointed it out to me. I usually fly at 80% but only tried 60% to see if the tail was different stability wise. But it turns out that, that's not what the gyro is actually used for. Compared to 80%, if you go to 60%, the tail turns a *LOT* faster. One time i was flying, i noticed the tail was a lot twitchier and the turns were a lot faster than i'm used to, turns out i must have bumped the TX against the case when i took it out somehow and the gyro switch was at mid stick (my gain is 80-60-50).
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 09:57 PM
Micro Menace
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Would someone mind explaining to me exactly how "adjustment mode" works with the #1 dipswitch. What is the effect? Do you switch it w/ battery connected? Or before hand? Just trying to figure everything out on this little heli.

Thanks
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 12:15 AM
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Philippines, Calabarzon, San Pedro
Joined Jul 2012
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Noticed that the heli's been losing power lately, to the point that it would often end up skidding across the ground after a sharp banked turn. At the start of the flight i can hover it at just over midstick, but soon have to push it all the way to the top just to keep flying. I've swapped out the motor, and while the blade tips are frayed, the leading edge is still sharp.

Looks like it's time to get new batteries. The four 350mah batteries were bought from chinesejade at the end of september, and i fly two or three times a day. So that would make about two and a half months for the lot. And that would be about 50 cycles each? Is that good?

I've got these in my shopping cart.

http://www.ehirobo.com/shop/Walkera-...duct_info.html
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 10:59 AM
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United States, VA
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budasac View Post
Would someone mind explaining to me exactly how "adjustment mode" works with the #1 dipswitch. What is the effect? Do you switch it w/ battery connected? Or before hand? Just trying to figure everything out on this little heli.
I think it turns off the gyros so that you can do things like check the blade tracking. Otherwise the gyros would move the servos when you move the heli.

I believe the instructions said to flip the switch after the battery is connected. I believe this is so that the servos will be centered before turning off the gyros. Otherwise they might be off if you had previously picked up the heli while disconnecting the battery. Technically I don't think it matters when the switch is flipped as long as you know the servos are centered.
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