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Old Jan 29, 2012, 12:56 PM
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RaymondM's Avatar
United States, MI, Cadillac
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I have a problem, I just changed over to 22 awg for the power leads from the pc board and put micro deans connectors on the heli as well as three stock batteries, it was running great. All of a sudden when I hook up the batteries and leave the batterys out of the battery tray it will bind and run great but when I try to insert the batteries into the tray it looses it's bind and starts to blink with the servos intermittently jumping up and down.( i think the wires on the stock batteries are too short and are loosing connection when i have to bend them to get them in the tray. I have ordered some 240 hyperions with and without wires and was thinking that with longer wires they won't short out (if this is the problem). Has anyone encountered this or a problem like this. I would really appreciate any help on this.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by fishfiend View Post
At last I'm having a blast with my Genius! I just changed the main motor, and now it's fun, I can go inverted without hitting the ground whilst bogging the motor a LOT more power with this one. It's my fourth motor and the only thing i've done differently is NOT putting Triflow in the can before flying it. I thought if I used some oil in it it would prolong the life of the motor I guess i was wrong. The other motors were oiled before use and never seemed to have the power of this one, and they got HOT too, whilst the latest stays warm.. So if you're suffering from a weak motor and have been oiling them try it dry...!
A few other people in different threads have reported loosing power after getting oil on their Motor's brushes. Here's another example:

Quote:
Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
...
So, I went ahead and did a 'no parts rebuild' -- rather than throw more money at it, I took the two motors and dunked each of them into their own glass of water with a 1.5V battery to see if anything would come out. The old motor came out clean, not even any brush debris, but the current motor sure enough was spiting out oily debris, and some sort of strandy stuff... it did not turn the water black from carbon dust like burning in a new motor does, but it was definitely contaminating the water.
...
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Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post


I don''t break in all brushed motors in water, but for the 120Sr and the mcpx I have done it and even (As described in the post you are concerned about) used it after the fact to clean a suspect motor.

When used on a new motor, the slower speed, cooling and lubrication of the water, etc is supposed to allow the brushes to more perfectly form to conduct well and thereby have max contact area, and work efficiently and last longer. I cannot say that I have scientifically verified all claims, but the technique is almost as old as brushed motors themselves.* Some people recommend alcohol, but the old salts say it is not as good as water. People just hearing about it often express concerns about conductivity and rusting. I assure you that with soft water (or DI or distilled if you are a real nervous norvous) and then a blow out with air, followed by putting it back in use, you needn't worry about rust.

I'm not here to make crazy claims about super performance using this awesome technique that EVERYONE ought to do right away.... I'm just sharing what I did to restore my own balky mcpx, for free.


This is what a brand new 120SR motor looks like after 20 minutes of run in:




*there are many 'guides' and 'how-tos' around -- here is a link to just one typical one:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5628228/tm.htm
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 01:03 PM
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Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaymondM View Post
I have a problem, I just changed over to 22 awg for the power leads from the pc board and put micro deans connectors on the heli as well as three stock batteries, it was running great. All of a sudden when I hook up the batteries and leave the batterys out of the battery tray it will bind and run great but when I try to insert the batteries into the tray it looses it's bind and starts to blink with the servos intermittently jumping up and down.( i think the wires on the stock batteries are too short and are loosing connection when i have to bend them to get them in the tray. I have ordered some 240 hyperions with and without wires and was thinking that with longer wires they won't short out (if this is the problem). Has anyone encountered this or a problem like this. I would really appreciate any help on this.
I think that one of the wires you soldered might not have a good connection. Try binding the heli, then carefully wiggling each wire until you find connection is goofy. It might be the wires on the batteries or on the heli.

Just a WAG,

Rafa
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaymondM View Post
I have a problem, I just changed over to 22 awg for the power leads from the pc board and put micro deans connectors on the heli as well as three stock batteries, it was running great. All of a sudden when I hook up the batteries and leave the batterys out of the battery tray it will bind and run great but when I try to insert the batteries into the tray it looses it's bind and starts to blink with the servos intermittently jumping up and down.( i think the wires on the stock batteries are too short and are loosing connection when i have to bend them to get them in the tray. I have ordered some 240 hyperions with and without wires and was thinking that with longer wires they won't short out (if this is the problem). Has anyone encountered this or a problem like this. I would really appreciate any help on this.
If everything was working properly before the micro Deans conversion, then I'd suspect bad wiring/soldering.

First: For high flex application: stranded wiring is normally considered better than solid wire.

Second: If you need help figuring out what could be wrong, I suspect you may be new at soldering, and further suspect maybe problem is due to bad soldering? Maybe not a good/strong electrical/mechanical connection? Maybe strand(s) of wire are "frayed" out and intermittently touching other wire ?

Third and finally: Maybe you used bad wire, which already had broken strands?

Edit: I posted this before reading Rafa's post. +1 with wiggling wires for trying to locate source of intermittent connection problem.
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Last edited by i812; Jan 29, 2012 at 01:15 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 01:13 PM
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United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaymondM View Post
I have a problem, I just changed over to 22 awg for the power leads from the pc board and put micro deans connectors on the heli as well as three stock batteries, it was running great. All of a sudden when I hook up the batteries and leave the batterys out of the battery tray it will bind and run great but when I try to insert the batteries into the tray it looses it's bind and starts to blink with the servos intermittently jumping up and down.( i think the wires on the stock batteries are too short and are loosing connection when i have to bend them to get them in the tray. I have ordered some 240 hyperions with and without wires and was thinking that with longer wires they won't short out (if this is the problem). Has anyone encountered this or a problem like this. I would really appreciate any help on this.
My guess is that you didn't get the wires soldered to the PCB very well and that's where you need to look.. And if there isn't any smoke they are not shorting out,, they aren't making a good connection..
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 01:24 PM
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United States, TN, Johnson City
Joined Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by mhills51 View Post
I'm starting to think they don't even have the double brushless. The pictures look like something someone just threw together. I ordered mine over a month ago. When I asked to cancel they gave me the run around and said oh so sorry we have problem with battery will send out soon we ship it monday. That was three weeks ago.
I just received mine on Friday from oomodel. First off I set everything up and tried to fly. No tail power. After further inspection one of the tail motor wires was disconnected from a bad soldering job. I soldered it together and everything works. The tail hold is SOLID and power is better than my c05. But the flying time is almost cut in half. I dont have the exact time because I was flying, tweaking with the rx pots, then flying. stop and go sort of thing. Mine came with a 350mah 25c battery even though in the pic it wasn't listed on oomodel. It has more power than my hyperion 25c batts!!! But you only get the one battery. I will try to fly some more and maybe make a vid if I can get a camera man.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 02:01 PM
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kansas city
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Flew my CP outside for the first time today 5 to 10 mile winds and it was great! just had to stay up with the collective management. Had a great time. If I wasn't sick I would go to the field with my big boys, but this is just as fun.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 02:03 PM
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kansas city
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Originally Posted by Milf Hunter View Post
I just received mine on Friday from oomodel. First off I set everything up and tried to fly. No tail power. After further inspection one of the tail motor wires was disconnected from a bad soldering job. I soldered it together and everything works. The tail hold is SOLID and power is better than my c05. But the flying time is almost cut in half. I dont have the exact time because I was flying, tweaking with the rx pots, then flying. stop and go sort of thing. Mine came with a 350mah 25c battery even though in the pic it wasn't listed on oomodel. It has more power than my hyperion 25c batts!!! But you only get the one battery. I will try to fly some more and maybe make a vid if I can get a camera man.
Great I thought that would work. (Murphy law) say it don't exist and it will turn up. lol!!
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 02:41 PM
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Australia
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
I have found that the florescent tape I added to mine really helps me keep track of it..
OK thanks, florescent tape looks a good option
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 02:47 PM
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Don't know if it was the wind or what, but it took a lot of power to complete a couple of flips.
Maybe it's my set up. I had never flipped this heli and I just did what I would normally do, but it took about everything out of it.
First one I ended up getting it back just before the ground. The second I used a lot more + pitch going into it and that seemed to help.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 03:04 PM
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My genius flies really good without the canopy, but when its on it tends to want to drift off. I tried with my new genius and it is the same. I think its partly to do with heat effecting the gyros, and also the aerodynamics. I try and keep it as loose as possible so it doesn't rub against the motor or the servos.

I think I will have to cut one up to experiment.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 04:28 PM
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United States, CA, Mt Shasta
Joined Jun 2010
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Originally Posted by distortionist View Post
My genius flies really good without the canopy, but when its on it tends to want to drift off. I tried with my new genius and it is the same. I think its partly to do with heat effecting the gyros, and also the aerodynamics. I try and keep it as loose as possible so it doesn't rub against the motor or the servos.

I think I will have to cut one up to experiment.
Have you done the mod to keep the canopy from touching the servos? Before I did that one I lost a servo because the canopy moved over and restricted the movement of the servo.
The rod holding the canopy in the back needs some heat shrink or 24 gauge wire coating slipped over it to keep the canopy from moving in and touching the servos.
Good luck with your problem and let us know what happens.
Mike
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by shastamike View Post
Have you done the mod to keep the canopy from touching the servos? Before I did that one I lost a servo because the canopy moved over and restricted the movement of the servo.
The rod holding the canopy in the back needs some heat shrink or 24 gauge wire coating slipped over it to keep the canopy from moving in and touching the servos.
Good luck with your problem and let us know what happens.
Mike
No, But that is not what is happening. I will do that mod tho, thanks for bringing it to my attention. It just seems to be drifty and not as stable with the canopy on. I'll get some heat shrink on it and have it as close as possible without touching the servo. Another thing that is annoying me is the trims, they reset, so does the tail subtrim. I think I will try having a different copy to bind from with everything reset and then switch to the other one. It is still annoying. I think it could be fixed with a tx update, let it bind first and then load the trims, and do it each time it binds, so when you switch batteries it binds then loads the trims. I am sure it is possible!
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 06:34 PM
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United States, MI, Cadillac
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
My guess is that you didn't get the wires soldered to the PCB very well and that's where you need to look.. And if there isn't any smoke they are not shorting out,, they aren't making a good connection..
Bob, what you said seems to be the case. I took it to my friend who is a master welder and he looked it over. His prognosis is to heat the solder again on the red wire at the connection to the PCB and let the solder sweat through the stranded wire making for a better connection. Thanks for the advice.
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 05:20 AM
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Joined Dec 2007
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Been having some fun with my GCP outside recently.
Followed the Tom z beginner settings, where normal mode is zero pitch at 0 throttle, and st1 and 2 have a good amount of negative pitch.
At first I flew it in normal mode which is great in no wind although a bit FP like, and switched to st1 in a breeze or windy conditions.
Last week I thought I would never get to grips with it, but i'm now doing FFF and the full monty.
I like this a lot, but wish I could get a little more than the 5 minute flight times per cell.
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