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Old Aug 21, 2011, 10:28 AM
Dude, I do fly all day long!
rcalldaylong's Avatar
San Jose, California
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reassemble stator...Do I use epoxy

I've seen this before, but can't seem to find it now...

If I've removed the stator from a heavily epoxied housing, when I reassemble back, should I then epoxy that stator on...and if yes, what's the best epoxy to use?

thanks in advance.

rcalldaylong
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 04:01 PM
Dude, I do fly all day long!
rcalldaylong's Avatar
San Jose, California
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anyone?

I assume I will have to use some kind of epoxy. After putting heat on it and taking out the stator, a test fit is fairly loose...so there's no way it's gonna hold under strain of the bell turning the prop.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 06:02 PM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Originally Posted by rcalldaylong View Post
anyone?

I assume I will have to use some kind of epoxy. After putting heat on it and taking out the stator, a test fit is fairly loose...so there's no way it's gonna hold under strain of the bell turning the prop.
The Electric Motor Design and Construction forum would have probably gotten you a quicker answer, that is where the people that do that kind of thing hang out for the most part.

I have use red (#272) Loctite successfully. That retains about 75% of it's strength at 200C (425F) and a stator/bearing tube should not get that hot normally. The magnets will lose there magnetism before a motor gets that hot.

Jack
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 10:54 PM
Dude, I do fly all day long!
rcalldaylong's Avatar
San Jose, California
Joined Dec 2007
5,825 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
The Electric Motor Design and Construction forum would have probably gotten you a quicker answer, that is where the people that do that kind of thing hang out for the most part.

I have use red (#272) Loctite successfully. That retains about 75% of it's strength at 200C (425F) and a stator/bearing tube should not get that hot normally. The magnets will lose there magnetism before a motor gets that hot.

Jack
thanks Jack. I disassembled and rewound a Hacker A30-28S, and boy was it tough. It makes rewinding all the turnigy motors seem like a walk in the park. Those windings were soaked in epoxy and had to be hacked out...even after baking in the oven for a while.

thanks again Jack.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 06:00 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Originally Posted by rcalldaylong View Post
thanks Jack. I disassembled and rewound a Hacker A30-28S, and boy was it tough. It makes rewinding all the turnigy motors seem like a walk in the park. Those windings were soaked in epoxy and had to be hacked out...even after baking in the oven for a while.

thanks again Jack.
I have gotten one motor that was that way, I found the best way to deal with epoxy soaked windings was to use a Dremel tool with one of the thicker fiberglass cutting discs (not the 0.025" metal cutting discs) and make cut through the windings in the "V" between each pair of stator arms. Do not cut or touch the stator itself, only the windings. Then you can peel the windings off much more easily with a needle nosed pliers. You can see how I did that here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1122

Some motor rewinders will drill and tap a hole along side the stator inner wall and the bearing tube and put a small screw in there that will both keep the stator from turning on the tube and hold it on. I recently did a similar thing on a Dualsky series motor (35mm stator) and used a music wire pin to keep the stator from turning and red Loctite to hold the stator on the tube. That is working OK so far and ou can see how I did that in this thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1457682

Jack
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 08:58 AM
Dude, I do fly all day long!
rcalldaylong's Avatar
San Jose, California
Joined Dec 2007
5,825 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
I have gotten one motor that was that way, I found the best way to deal with epoxy soaked windings was to use a Dremel tool with one of the thicker fiberglass cutting discs (not the 0.025" metal cutting discs) and make cut through the windings in the "V" between each pair of stator arms. Do not cut or touch the stator itself, only the windings. Then you can peel the windings off much more easily with a needle nosed pliers. You can see how I did that here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1122

Some motor rewinders will drill and tap a hole along side the stator inner wall and the bearing tube and put a small screw in there that will both keep the stator from turning on the tube and hold it on. I recently did a similar thing on a Dualsky series motor (35mm stator) and used a music wire pin to keep the stator from turning and red Loctite to hold the stator on the tube. That is working OK so far and ou can see how I did that in this thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1457682

Jack

Thanks again jack. Very helpful tips.

regards,
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