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Old Sep 25, 2011, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by PittSpecial View Post
No, because I myself have flown my model with a higher Pitched propeller without any ill conditions and the flight did last rather long. The Battery came down ice cold. I believe I had the APC "Slow Flyer" 10 X 7 which is a wider blade prop and the pitch is much more pronounced.

I am with David, I feel that there was something wrong with the Motor and wires making contact with the rotating bell housing and causing overheat and eventually damage.
Plus, you're also using a 2200 mah higher discharge rate battery on top of the bigger prop, right? If that's the case then yeah, it probably has nothing to do with the battery.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 04:10 PM
dbc
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Agree with you, Carlos. That slow flyer prop probably drew even more current than the 11x5.5 thin electric I used. If the power system can easily tolerate these props, then the stock setup should NEVER have a problem.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 04:13 PM
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Plus, you're also using a 2200 mah higher discharge rate battery on top of the bigger prop, right? If that's the case then yeah, it probably has nothing to do with the battery.
Correct, I am using some Turnigy 3-Cell, 2200mAH, 25C/30C Burst Discharge, Li-POLYs.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 04:17 PM
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Agree with you, Carlos. That slow flyer prop probably drew even more current than the 11x5.5 thin electric I used. If the power system can easily tolerate these props, then the stock setup should NEVER have a problem.
Okay, I just looked at the Manual that David gave me when I purchased the model from him.

STOCK 10 X 5 Prop: 260 Watts / 22.5 AMPs / 9,000 RPMs / Pitch Speed: 42MPH / Static Thrust 41oz. / Efficiency: 65%

APC "E" 11 X 5.5 : 300 Watts / 26.5 AMPs / 8,000 RPMs / Pitch Speed: 40 MPH / Static Thrust: 44oz. / Efficiency 60%

Dry Weight of Model: 46oz.

Weight of model + 2200mAH: 52.5 oz.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 04:19 PM
dbc
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I certainly hope you guys can get these problems resolved and that Hobbico is not shipping defective planes.

This is far too nice a plane to be dogged with problems. As both Carlos and myself have observed, it's one of the slickest and easiest planes to assemble. Fit and finish are really top notch, and it's just a real joy to fly.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 04:19 PM
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I kinda wonder what the plane is going to look like after the swap, i understand that cowling is a pita to remove.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 04:20 PM
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I certainly hope you guys can get these problems resolved and that Hobbico is not shipping defective planes.

This is far too nice a plane to be dogged with problems. As both Carlos and myself have observed, it's one of the slickest and easiest planes to assemble. Fit and finish are really top notch, and it's just a real joy to fly.
that makes 2 of us. I really love this plane, it's a great value if nothing else.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 04:28 PM
dbc
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My experience with Hobbico, Great Planes, Tower, customer support has been uniformly positive. They stand behind their products and can be relied upon to "make it right".

Times like these that make you glad you didn't take a chance with some of the other (read NP, BH, etc) suppliers that don't do as good a job with CS.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 04:32 PM
dbc
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The glued on cowl was one of only two things I didn't like about this plane.

I recall reading somewhere that, it you really take your time, the cowl can be removed pretty much intact. I never had any occasion to remove it so couldn't comment.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 07:18 PM
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The glued on cowl was one of only two things I didn't like about this plane.

I recall reading somewhere that, it you really take your time, the cowl can be removed pretty much intact. I never had any occasion to remove it so couldn't comment.
It pried off quite nicely in only a couple of minutes. Just be gentle and use a flexible piece of thin plastic or metal to persuade the tougher portions. Am using crafting glue dots to hold in place.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 07:41 PM
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It pried off quite nicely in only a couple of minutes. Just be gentle and use a flexible piece of thin plastic or metal to persuade the tougher portions. Am using crafting glue dots to hold in place.
Hi,

If I would need to remove the Cowling for any reason, I would install small yet strong magnets around the frontal fuse area and install metal sleeves on the cowling. This way it will easier to remove.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 11:30 PM
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So I got it home and took it out. The weather was just right, again. I must say it's a changed plane now. I don't understand how the swap made it better, but it's way better. I finally get what everybody is describing, nice controlled stable flight. There was no more of this about to kamakazi into the ground business. There was plenty of power as well.

Only problem was when the battery died, it did so gradually, where the plane was flying, but it was just lacking the power that it had. I was under the impression that the power delivery would be more constant and then the motor would simply shut down allowing only the controls to move. At least this is how it was with the last plane. Is this how everyone else's sensei loses power, gradually until it's too weak to stay up, or does it go constant and then just shut down? Just curious.

I didn't use the 2200 battery, it got dark on me, plus I had a little mishap on the landing where I loosened up the front wheel. I could have gone again, but I preferred to go home and fix that. Also, I feel nervous running the other battery after the motor and esc melted. I know I'm being silly though.

Pitt, just an opinion on the magnet thing. I had to take off the cowling to service that wheel, and I must say, the way the shop did it; double sided scotch tape along all the edges, works really well. The cowling sticks on well and it's very snug. Imo, it's the best way, it adds no weight, and it's extremely effective. You have to really force it to slide off, and once it's pressed together, it's not going anywhere. I tried to visualize using magnets like you said, but I found that would be a bit overly involved of a project, for really no benefit. With the tape,you could take it off and retape it a million times, and it's always going to be the same. I reapplied the tape and it was good as new. Just an opinion after analyzing the thing. I think if you were to take off the cowling you would see what I mean.

Just an opinion.
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 11:46 PM
Right Rudder
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I usually fly no more than 9 - 10 minutes so, I do not encounter a weak battery pack. I am a believer to land much sooner than what the battery pack can deliver because Li-POLYs just do not like being drained too low for too many times. This reduces Cycle Life to 50% and it has been proven in many Li-Ion / Li-POLY battery white papers.

Double side tape is okay but, I live in very humid conditions and I have seen many of the double sided tapes that hold servos on small park flyers give way. Perhaps a Cowling that does not provide any pressure like a servo would be okay but, it would need to be High Performance brand like 3M type in order for me to trust. The use of Magnets are really easy, if you have experience otherwise like anything new to us it would be hard to imagine how.

Glad you had fun before Sun down.

Carlos
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 01:06 AM
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maybe I will get a stopwatch and set it, that sounds like a good idea. I've noticed you lose track of time real quick.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 11:35 AM
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I would have had to mention the battery lol. This morning I went to charge the stock battery on the stock charger that came with the plane, and the led that says "reconditioning" came on and stayed on. I can't get the battery to charge no matter what. Tried unplugging and reinstalling, nothing. It keeps going to "reconditioning". When I try the other pack, it charges it normally.

Any thoughts? This happen to anyone else?
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