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Old Jan 24, 2013, 10:46 PM
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South Africa, WC, Cape Town
Joined Oct 2011
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leave it as it is and fly it, it is good to go

Quote:
Ditto with Roger's comments. I took the spinner off, it certainly helps with air flow. I'm still flying with the stock electrics, she has plenty of power and I get 9-10 minute flights with throttle 50-65% most of the time. Plenty if you are learning, you can always hop her up later!
+1 .fly it stock
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 09:12 AM
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United States, MI, Plymouth
Joined Aug 2012
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All right then, it looks like I will fly it stock. Thanks for all the input.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 09:08 AM
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United States, MI, Plymouth
Joined Aug 2012
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So last night I put this together. Went pretty easy and I like how the tail section inter locks into the fuse as opposed to other that just sit on top. Not thrilled with the decals as some of the edges are already peeling. Picked up a watt meter and will see which prop provides lower amps, the stock or the 9.5x7.5.

I found this info about the stock motor and I saw early on in this thread that people were asking about it. This came off FZ site:

FLZA6174 Flyzone Brushless Motor 30-22-1350Kv

This weekend I will finish setting the trims and wait for the weather to break.

Howard
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 09:31 AM
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United States, MI, Plymouth
Joined Aug 2012
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I have 6x25 metal screws at work. Any thoughts on replacing the nylons with these for durability reasons as I have to remove the wings for transport in my jeep. They appear to sit close to the cog so it shouldn't make any difference.


Howard
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 09:43 AM
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Sensei on floats

In response to if the Sensei is good on floats. YES. I have converted many planes to floats (t28, icon,beaver, ...)and I like to fly the Sensei the best. With stock setup it will take off and loop . Use floats from seaplane supply made for the aprentice, they are a perfict fit. I put a 15 no name motor and maxed out the throws and this plane is great!!! Don't forget to put a water rudder on it because it has alot of windage.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 11:36 AM
I use EXPO and Senior Rates
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United States, MI, Custer
Joined Jan 2010
268 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valkyrie. View Post
I have 6x25 metal screws at work. Any thoughts on replacing the nylons with these for durability reasons as I have to remove the wings for transport in my jeep. They appear to sit close to the cog so it shouldn't make any difference.


Howard
Hi Howard,

Take a look at the metal bolt receptacle in the fuse, on mine there is only about 3 threads. I would be concerned about the metal bolts wearing the threads in the receptacle with more use. With the nylon bolts you will probably get wear on the bolts and not the receptacle. I am also a little carefull on not over-tightening the bolts and I check them again for each flight (battery change).

The big thing is not losing them in tall grass on removal, some have painted them yellow or any bright color. When I remove the wings I screw the bolts into the fuse and so far I have not lost mine.

Skies are definately required on our side of the state with close to 2' of snow with the snow "showers" the weatherman spoke of this week.

Good luck and better flying,

Roger
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 12:08 PM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
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North AL, USA
Joined Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valkyrie. View Post
I have 6x25 metal screws at work. Any thoughts on replacing the nylons with these for durability reasons...
Howard,
I am using the metal screws, they work well and have not compromised the threads in the fuselage. Just don't overtighten.

Kevin
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 01:17 PM
accel8or
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Dec 2010
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I am planning on making a clipped-wing version with a spare wing. Has anyone ever flown it clipped-wing style?
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 05:53 PM
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United States, DC, Washington
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by Valkyrie. View Post
New sensei owner,

I have a new still in the box sensei (to cold to fly here in Mi.) and have been going through this thread. I was thinking about pulling the stock motor and esc

I am looking for opinions about this setup.

Thanks
Howard
I have flown the pictured configuration with a 4S and with a 3S. With the 4S it will take off in about 3 feet, with a 3S it will take off in about 15 feet. The 4S flies with enough power to do an inside loop into an outside loop.

ESC:
Plush 40A Brushless Speed Controller
Cont Current: 40A
Burst Current: 55A
BEC Mode: Linear
BEC : 5v / 3A
Lipo Cells: 2-6
NiMH : 5-18
Weight: 33g
Size: 55x28x13mm

Motor:
Turnigy D3536/8 1000KV Brushless Outrunner Motor
Spec.
Battery: 2~4 Cell /7.4~14.8V
RPM: 1000kv
Max current: 30A
No load current: 1.7A
Max power: 430W
Internal resistance: 0.052 ohm
Weight: 102g (including connectors)
Diameter of shaft: 5mm
Dimensions: 35x36m
Prop size: 7.4V/11x5 14.8V/10x6
Max thrust: 1160g

Prop:
APC 11x5.5E Electric Propeller
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 08:58 PM
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United States, IN, Greenwood
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valkyrie. View Post
I have 6x25 metal screws at work. Any thoughts on replacing the nylons with these for durability reasons as I have to remove the wings for transport in my jeep. They appear to sit close to the cog so it shouldn't make any difference.


Howard
I also use metal screws as the nylon ones eventually stripped and I could easily pick up metal ones at the local hardware store. No change to CG and no problems with threads on fuse. Also, I eventually replaced the stock motor with a Value Hobby 10 as the original motor had a bent shaft. The plane flies with a bit more authority now. I have around 215 flights on this plane and around 180 were with the stock electrics.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 11:52 AM
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Norway, Aust-Agder, Arendal
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Originally Posted by accel8or View Post
I am planning on making a clipped-wing version with a spare wing. Has anyone ever flown it clipped-wing style?
The Sensei suits clipped wing very well. It will of course be a bit more unstable, but it has heaps of stability to take from;-) Max out throw on everything, convert it to taildragger, and you'll have a plane that can do inverted low pass. Add a 400 to 500 watts motor an you can pull it straight up from an inverted low pass and do several rolls at the same time!
Tip 1: Modify the rudder for more throw. There is not enough space for a lot of rudder throw on the stock Sensei.
Tip 2: With bigger motor and a lot of throw, you'll have to re-hinge rudder and elevator. Otherwise they will be ripped of. Believe me!
Tip 3: Reinforce the tail. Very big, weak surfaces. Use bamboo sticks from the supermarked. Lite and strong.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 12:02 PM
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United States, DC, Washington
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole Jacob View Post
The Sensei suits clipped wing very well. It will of course be a bit more unstable, but it has heaps of stability to take from;-) Max out throw on everything, convert it to taildragger, and you'll have a plane that can do inverted low pass. Add a 400 to 500 watts motor an you can pull it straight up from an inverted low pass and do several rolls at the same time!
Tip 1: Modify the rudder for more throw. There is not enough space for a lot of rudder throw on the stock Sensei.
Tip 2: With bigger motor and a lot of throw, you'll have to re-hinge rudder and elevator. Otherwise they will be ripped of. Believe me!
Tip 3: Reinforce the tail. Very big, weak surfaces. Use bamboo sticks from the supermarked. Lite and strong.
I have found my servo upgrade provides very strong and lots of rudder and elevator throw.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 08:30 PM
accel8or
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Dec 2010
459 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole Jacob View Post
The Sensei suits clipped wing very well. It will of course be a bit more unstable, but it has heaps of stability to take from;-) Max out throw on everything, convert it to taildragger, and you'll have a plane that can do inverted low pass. Add a 400 to 500 watts motor an you can pull it straight up from an inverted low pass and do several rolls at the same time!
Tip 1: Modify the rudder for more throw. There is not enough space for a lot of rudder throw on the stock Sensei.
Tip 2: With bigger motor and a lot of throw, you'll have to re-hinge rudder and elevator. Otherwise they will be ripped of. Believe me!
Tip 3: Reinforce the tail. Very big, weak surfaces. Use bamboo sticks from the supermarked. Lite and strong.
Thanks for the info on the needed modifications
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 08:36 PM
accel8or
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Dec 2010
459 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom.in.Maryland View Post
I have found my servo upgrade provides very strong and lots of rudder and elevator throw.
Good deal. I wanna get some metal gear hitecs.

Another thing I want to change is the drop doors. Instead of a drop door, I want it to be able carry a glider or an ultramicro (Champ) with some kind of holding system that releases the umx plane at elevation.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 11:06 PM
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USA
Joined Mar 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accel8or View Post
Good deal. I wanna get some metal gear hitecs.

Another thing I want to change is the drop doors. Instead of a drop door, I want it to be able carry a glider or an ultramicro (Champ) with some kind of holding system that releases the umx plane at elevation.
This is a no brainer.. Profile Bell X1, rudder only glider. I think you can get foam board the
right color at the craft store.

http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/950051
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