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Old Jan 02, 2013, 11:31 PM
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Rightfly's Avatar
United States, MI, Custer
Joined Jan 2010
272 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom.in.Maryland View Post
I have a Sensei that has a broken off cowl and no motor mount. I am wanting to mount the Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 3536-1200kv Brushless Outrunner Motor which is
530 Watts.

Please help me with ideas of how to mount the motor on the Sensei. I don't really know how to do it, I was given the Sensei as you see in the picture so I dont even know how the stock motor mounts.

I just want to mount the 3536-1200kv, ideas please.?.?.?.
Hi Tom,

There was a couple posts earlier in this thread that might give you some ideas. If you have not found them already take a look at the following.

Page 24, Post 346
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=346

Page 58, Post 858
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=858

As far as a mount is concerned I have used spacres and screws to provide a mounting surface for a motor in a J3 Cub I repowered. Below is a picture of the mounting. The spacers are from Heads Up Rc.

Good luck in your project and post a picture when you are done.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 05:58 AM
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South Africa, WC, Cape Town
Joined Oct 2011
414 Posts
Quote:
Danny,

You have to be really proud of your young man, he sounds like a boy with his head on straight. I was hoping my grand sons, 9 and 13, would take more of an interest on their visit last summer but it did not appear to be there.

Grandpa's desire for their interest exceeded reality I guess.

You are welcome to fly in my back yard - I guarantee you will not find it too hot - 18 degrees F this AM.
Hi Roger,
I am very proud of him. Over the years we have done (and still do) a lot of things together, Hiking, camping, fishing,surfing, hunting and fortunately also flying RC.

Regarding your kind offer, thanks but I'll pass.

On a different note, tomorrow we are going to hike up Table Mountain, via the Skeleton gorge (you can look it up on google-earth)

(edit) - It went well, a wonderful experience, today is a lazy day at home and tomorrow back to flying the Sensei and a few other planes
Brgds and happy flying,

Danny
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:15 AM
Registered User
Norway, Aust-Agder, Arendal
Joined Dec 2012
28 Posts
Flying the Discovery (Sensei) a nice winter day

Assev 060113 (5 min 54 sec)


Sorry for unstable movie frame. I said yes to yoytube fixing. Will never do again;-)
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 02:39 PM
Prefectionist
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Mar 2007
1,304 Posts
Actually, youtube did a really good job of stabilizing that movie. It looked VERY smooth if you kept your eye on the center of the picture.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole Jacob View Post
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=f21nujZy_mM

Sorry for unstable movie frame. I said yes to yoytube fixing. Will never do again;-)
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 02:46 PM
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Tom.in.Maryland's Avatar
United States, DC, Washington
Joined Mar 2012
138 Posts
Sensei Build Questions???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rightfly View Post
Hi Tom,

There was a couple posts earlier in this thread that might give you some ideas. If you have not found them already take a look at the following.
My Sensei Build Progress Some Questions...

Attached is pic, I still have not exactly figured out how to mount the motor. Yes I will touch up the windshield with black. The motor I am considering specs below, any advise will this be a good motor????

I was considering replacing the rudder and elevator servos with full size servos, is it necessary, how have you found the stock servos???

Please help...

ESC:

Plush 60A Brushless Speed Controller The plush series ESC are a very good quality controller. They have a broad range of programming features and a smooth throttle response compared to other BESCs in the same price range.
This BESC can handle 3A continuous current which is great for larger planes with bigger servos.

Cont Current: 60A
Burst Current: 80A
BEC Mode: Switching
BEC : 5v / 3A
Input: 5.6v-22v
Weight: 60g
Size: 80x31x14mm
Supported motor speed for all TURNIGY ESCs is;
(Maximum): 210000 RPM (2 poles), 70000 RPM (6 poles), 35000 RPM (12 poles).
User Programmable, both via controller and optional programming card. The programming card is an excellent item as it instantly tells the user the current settings and with a few simple clicks of the buttons, the user can change the
settings and have graphical reassurance of those changes.
The programming card is an excellent Item and simple to use!
PRODUCT ID: TR_P60A

Motor:

Turnigy G15 Brushless Outrunner 810kv
Spec.
Battery: 3~4 Cell /11.1~14.8V
RPM: 810kv
Max current: 42A
No load current: 11V/1.5A
Internal resistance: 0.03 ohm
Weight: 152g (not including connectors)
Diameter of shaft: 5mm
Dimensions: 73x35mm
Test Data:
11.1v - 13x4 prop - 22A - 1640g Thrust
14.8v - 11x5.5 prop - 35A - 2060g Thrust
Kv (rpm/v) 810
Weight (g) 152
Max Current (A) 42
Resistance (mh) 0
Max Voltage (V) 15
Power(W) 575
Shaft A (mm) 5
Length B (mm) 48
Diameter C (mm) 35
Can Length D (mm) 30
Total Length E (mm) 73

Prop:
APC 11x5.5E Electric Propeller
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 05:58 PM
Registered User
Norway, Aust-Agder, Arendal
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom.in.Maryland View Post
My Sensei Build Progress Some Questions...

Attached is pic, I still have not exactly figured out how to mount the motor. Yes I will touch up the windshield with black. The motor I am considering specs below, any advise will this be a good motor????

I was considering replacing the rudder and elevator servos with full size servos, is it necessary, how have you found the stock servos???

Please help...
Use a foam block and cut it to similar size to the piece you are missing. Carve a hole in the rear end for the ESC. Glue it on. Make a firewall of wood (ply or anything light and strong). Remember to drill holes for airflow to the ESC. The length from propeller to the nose wheel mount, should be about the same as stock. I'll post some pictures further down...

The motor will work just fine;-)

Replacing stock with standard servos will be a tight fit... And with a heavier motor and battery it will land a lot faster. Use metal gear micro servos instead. Stock servos can be found as spare parts in any online ST Model (Flyzone) shop, at least here in Norway. (http://www.elefun.no/p/prod.aspx?v=17487)

This model plane will fly anyway... You can almost do whatever you want;-)
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Last edited by Ole Jacob; Jan 07, 2013 at 06:21 PM.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 06:03 PM
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Norway, Aust-Agder, Arendal
Joined Dec 2012
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Sensei Build Questions???

Motor mount
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 06:07 PM
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Norway, Aust-Agder, Arendal
Joined Dec 2012
28 Posts
Sensei Build Questions???

Missing part should be made so the distance from propeller to nose wheel mount are similar to stock.
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Last edited by Ole Jacob; Jan 07, 2013 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 06:24 PM
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Tom.in.Maryland's Avatar
United States, DC, Washington
Joined Mar 2012
138 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole Jacob View Post
Missing part should be made so the distance from propeller to nose wheel mount are similar to stock.
What is that distance can you measure it? also I don't know how high above the nose wheel linkage the center of the shaft should be? Pleas help and advise. Thanks so much! Tom
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 09:11 PM
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Tom.in.Maryland's Avatar
United States, DC, Washington
Joined Mar 2012
138 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole Jacob View Post
Replacing stock with standard servos will be a tight fit... And with a heavier motor and battery it will land a lot faster. Use metal gear micro servos instead. Stock servos can be found as spare parts in any online ST Model (Flyzone) shop, at least here in Norway.This model plane will fly anyway... You can almost do whatever you want;-)
I am option of adding Standard size Servos, I am planning on these servos...

Rudder

BMS-661DMG+HS Super Fast Digital Servo (Metal Gear) 6.4kg / .08sec / 46.5g

Double ball bearing (Si-oil)
CE Certified Strong 3 Pole Motor
Heavy duty sealed water proof case
Alloy heatsink
Digital signal design with 100% fitting square PWS
Automatic measures central ms
ALU 6061 alloy and C95 gear material
Digital IC (SOP package with 12bits transfer data)
MOS-FET driver (spirited driver able to push over 7A power)

Weight: 46.5g / 1.66oz
Dimensions: 40.5 x 20 x 38mm / 1.60" x 0.78" x 1.54"
Torque At 6.0V: 6.4kg/cm , 89 oz/in
Speed At 6.0V: 0.08 sec / 60 at no load
Operating voltage: 4.8 - 6.0V


Elevator

Model: TGY-1258TG
Operating Voltage: 4.8V / 6.0V
Operating Current: 300mA / 400mA
Operating Speed: 0.11sec.60/ 0.10sec.60
Stall Torque: 12.0kg.cm /13.5kg.cm
Size: 40.3X20.2X37.2mm
Weight: 57g
Dead Band: ≤2uSec
Motor: Coreless Type
Ball bearing: 2BB
Gear: Titanium
Connector wire: 300mm
Plug: JR Type
Operating Temperature Range: -20c+60c
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 12:04 AM
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Norway, Aust-Agder, Arendal
Joined Dec 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom.in.Maryland View Post
What is that distance can you measure it? also I don't know how high above the nose wheel linkage the center of the shaft should be? Pleas help and advise. Thanks so much! Tom
11.5 cm (115mm)from nose wheel linkage to propeller.
From top of battery hatch measured down to center motor 3,5cm (35mm).

With standard servos you will not have much room for servo throw...

...but as I mentioned before, this aircraft will fly anyway;-)
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:39 PM
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Tom.in.Maryland's Avatar
United States, DC, Washington
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole Jacob View Post
11.5 cm (115mm)from nose wheel linkage to propeller.
From top of battery hatch measured down to center motor 3,5cm (35mm).

With standard servos you will not have much room for servo throw...

...but as I mentioned before, this aircraft will fly anyway;-)
Thanks for the measurements it will help, The Standard size servos Blue Bird BMS-661DMG+HS have lots of strong control throw and response of the Elevator and Rudder.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:37 AM
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Norway, Aust-Agder, Arendal
Joined Dec 2012
28 Posts
Looks like you are building a steady plane with moderate rudder and elevator throw. Will be nice for video. My plane is modified for acro training with clipped wing tips and more rudder/elevator throw. Not ideal for video, but fun to fly:-)
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 11:26 AM
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Tom.in.Maryland's Avatar
United States, DC, Washington
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole Jacob View Post
Looks like you are building a steady plane with moderate rudder and elevator throw. Will be nice for video. My plane is modified for acro training with clipped wing tips and more rudder/elevator throw. Not ideal for video, but fun to fly:-)
The bigger Bluebird 661DMG+HS servos also give more elevator and rudder throw. But not as much as what you are showing in your picture. Nice picture and good to see the plane can handle with that much elevator!
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Old Jan 10, 2013, 04:42 PM
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United States, FL, Valrico
Joined Apr 2012
607 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rightfly View Post
First of all a Happy New Year to all you Sensei drivers. May we be blessed with good flying conditions every day.

This afternoon I was using my Real Flight 5.5 simulator - rotten flying conditions here today - and I discovered a Sensei plane available from the SwapPages. It is designed for RF 6 but I downloaded it and it works just fine. You will get one error message but it will still work on RF5.5.

There are a couple variants including a re-powered 3D version as well as some color skemes for the Hype - I Can Fly version. I recommend one variant that adjusts the glide characteristics. The sim plane has a feel close to the real Sensei.

With the snow on the ground I have fired up the sim occasionally. Maybe I will put skies on the Sensei.

Roger
Happy New Year! Thanks for the RF info. I looked for the plane before but hadn't found it. I'll check the swap files and try one out. I'm replacing my graphics card today and hope to see even better performance with the new card.

Had the Sensei out again since my maiden and really like the way it flies. It will roll quickly and loop without any problem and landings are a piece of cake. Very nice plane.

Had my first successful drop, too! I was having trouble getting my little paratroopers to jump (they were snagging their chute lines on the drop door hardware). Another club member offered up a homemade chute attached to a little plastic man he had cast himself. The little guy had a nice heft and didn't need any additional balast so we loaded him up and off he went into the blue. Turns out he was a bit timid about jumping, but after a couple of rolls and a loop with the drop door open out he came! I didn't see much of his descent as I was busy straightening the plane out after all the acrobatics, but the guys there enjoyed seeing him float down.

I'm going to build some kind of compartment inside the drop bay so that there aren't any little nooks or crannies where things can get hung up. Should be easy to just line the interior with some cardboard walls. With that in place I should be able to have a little more controlled drops than I've had!
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