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Old Jul 27, 2012, 02:09 PM
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mrdd54's Avatar
United States, IL, New Lenox
Joined Jan 2012
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MANY MANY THANKS TO FLYZONE!!!!!!!!!! I sent them my Sensei fuselage that had a broken front servo and a fried esc and motor (under warranty). They sent me a WHOLE NEW PLANE!!!!!! Can't say enough about their Customer Service!!!!! Thanks guys!!!!
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 02:11 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
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Thanks Roger!!!
Say, is it a Skyfly Max in your icon picture? I started flying with that one too, and also have been into HO on and off since 1955 ( more exactly, my dad started playing with my train in 1955)..
Regards
Albert
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 03:06 PM
I use EXPO and Senior Rates
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United States, MI, Custer
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinaio View Post
Thanks Roger!!!
Say, is it a Skyfly Max in your icon picture? I started flying with that one too, and also have been into HO on and off since 1955 ( more exactly, my dad started playing with my train in 1955)..
Regards
Albert
That is exactly what it is. It is a screen shot of a SkyFlyMax on my Real Flight 5 sim. It is also the very first RC plane I attempted to fly. I was one of those that thought I was so good on the sim I could skip the lowly 3 ch plane. After the 3rd or 4th rebuild following short flights I gave up and started listening to the seasoned pilots on the forums and got a HZ Champ followed by a Electrify Flylite. I then jumped to 4ch with the Sensei.

I guess I kept the SkyFlyMax as my avatar as a remider to keep me humble.



Now back to our Sensei's, Good luck on your repair.

Roger
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 03:12 PM
I use EXPO and Senior Rates
Rightfly's Avatar
United States, MI, Custer
Joined Jan 2010
272 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrdd54 View Post
MANY MANY THANKS TO FLYZONE!!!!!!!!!! I sent them my Sensei fuselage that had a broken front servo and a fried esc and motor (under warranty). They sent me a WHOLE NEW PLANE!!!!!! Can't say enough about their Customer Service!!!!! Thanks guys!!!!
You are absolutely right. I just received a whole new wing set for my Flyzone Corvalis in less than a week after reporting the starboard lights did not work. I think most manufacturers will have problems but the good ones are the ones that know how and are willing to solve a problem.

Good luck with your new Sensei, I am sure you will like it.

Roger
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Last edited by Rightfly; Jul 27, 2012 at 10:07 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 05:51 PM
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United States, IL, New Lenox
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Thanks Roger. Soon as the Doctor releases me from "house arrest" (I had surgery). I'll be out there.
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Old Jul 28, 2012, 12:11 PM
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I would like to share some positive experience for whoever is considering this plane. Will talk about setups, flaperons, aerobatics, landing, ESC, battery. LONG LONG post, hope I dont mess up the site.

My environment: It is my second plane. Did app.400 lflights so far, many more landings, ( i like to do touch and go); some landings harder than others but no damage, except nose landing strut became looser. ( excludes the first and only crash that just happened because of too-dark conditions and I lost it..) I did many hours of simulator (realflight 5.5 )before flying real planes. Every newcomer should too, imho.Everything is stock, fly 2200mAh, timer set at 8.5 min and batts never go lower than 65%(as measured by a hk voltmeter). Use spektrum dx7s with an Orange receiver, zero problems. Low rates are set at 60% except as noted. You have heard it before, but it is absolutely true for this plane: CG is critical, have it at specs; and :Trimming is critical, have the plane perfectly trimmed on a calm day before you try anything else.

Flaperons: after a lot of experimenting , yes, they shorten landings, but make it much much harder to control, as can get much closer to stall, and there is a lot less aileron travel to work with..Plus needs some differential adjust so that you dont over-stretch the servos and linkages. My final setup is Flaperons set at 40% down, and elevator at 6% up (apparently contrary to common practice, but this sets it up fine for me, floats down by itself), and throttle at 10%. More like 15 % + if there is any wind. Some would say not worth the trouble. But it does add to the challenge and learning, and shortens the take off as well and allows a steeper climb if you need it.
My best landing results are when I fly 50% power on the downwind leg, enter the last (180 deg) turn at 30 to 40 ft altitude, reduce power progressively during the turn to 10 % power while keeping the nose up and same altitude, to burn off speed prior to the final descent (to get every time the same amount of power, set yout timer start switch ( if you have one on your radio) at whatever level you want, then you can hear it click when you lower the power and cross that level); if trimmed properly,( see above on elevator trim in flap setup) it settles into a constant vertical speed descent by itself, no elevator jockeying; the amount of up elevator trim may depend on your particular plane and on your flaperon setting, play around in 2 % increments until you get a very slightly nose-down, slow descent; (dont get discouraged: power level, elev trim, flap% and CG all interact together.. change one and the behaviour changes); then at about 4 to 5 ft elevation cut all power and flare it. I have very long tx sticks and use 20 % exponential on elevator, and low rate, set at 60%. One in three landings is a greaser.

Landings without flaperons: same pattern and power setting as above, except no flaperons nor elevator trim. Will be faster, take (a lot) longer to settle. You really need to burn off speed before the final descent; if you are too fast at the last turn, and woosh down even at 0 power, you will have too much speed; the "float forever" thing is not a good thing; besides going too far down the strip, if you keep the nose up at what becomes then a too-low speed, you risk stalling, visible as a gradual wandering left and right at noticeably nose-up attitude, which can suddenly become a flop-over ( ground roll I think is the proper name), or worse veering into the pilots fences. So: when it is parallel to the ground, and just 3-4 inches up, cut all power if not already done and set it down, even if goes fast.

For a major improvement in high winds and crosswinds: add weight! With 200 grams more in the cargo bay it is truly transformed, can handle a lot of crosswind and is smoother in landings. Will not be as agile but much more stable. Just recheck your cg , it is ESSENTIAL it is kept at specs, else any small CG change (even 1/8 in) will throw all the fine settings above off. you will still be able to land, but not as " automatically". Worst conditions tested were 90% crosswind at 13 mph and wind shear... a handful, and not enjoyable, and not recommended, but it testifies to the capacities of the plane.

Aerobatics: ( not a trainer criteria but we all like to stretch the performance envelope, dont we..): I added one eight inch throw in both directions on all surfaces, and when do aerobatics I always stay on high rate ( 100%). No ballast. With this setup it does loops & outside loops from level flight; hammerheads, snap rolls, elevator-assisted rolls, opposite rudder rolls and same-side rudder rolls, very stable inverted flight, can do inverted figure eights all day. Just practice them all on a simulator before.

ESC: keep in mind that an esc is a big transistor, and even today semiconductors manufacturing is such that reliability is still a statistical science. So a batch of esc rated say 50 amps will have some that can handle 50A all day, and a lot more that will fail early, even at 40A, or 30A. And, Heat is the enemy. So when you order one leave yourself a lot of margin, say 30 % extra capacity. I also keep the stock prop, 10x 5, for the sake of not stressing the ESC, the batteries, and the motor. On this particular plane I did many flights at 100% power without problems. Also, you can fry the motor and ESC in no time ( like a VERY few seconds ) if you have power on and the prop/ motor is prevented from turning. So if you have a bad landing and the prop is constrained by ground, grass etc, shut the power off instantly.

BATTERIES: "How long does the flight last" is not a complete question. If you fly until you drain the battery all the way, the life cycle of the battery is greatly reduced. Different opinions exist on how low one should go. My experience is that 3 minutes of 100% aerobatics and then 6-7 minutes of fluffing around will leave my 2200 mah battery at 65% (see top of this post). Of course if you have only one battery you want to get a good run; but I suggest you get several ( cheap ones at 20C are OK) and do shorter flights.

The Sensei is a wonderful first or second plane. In my book, it is Great Value for the money, dont forget how inexpensive it is...
Happy flying!!!
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 08:59 AM
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United States, NY, Champlain
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Marinaio, Thank you for an informative and positive post regarding your experience flying the Sensei. I have ordered one and expect delivery on 7/31. It will be my first plane after nearly 3 decades away from R/C flying and you have raised my spirits about my decision to purchase this model.

Dennis
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 09:12 AM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
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North AL, USA
Joined Nov 2009
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Dennis, you'll love this bird. I'm in a club, and my instructor raves about it. Even with the stock electronics (I have had no problems) and the recommended battery she'll buzz around at 1/2 throttle and occasional bursts for about 10 minutes. If winds-aloft are up, give her more throttle; you don't have to worry about getting it down-wind, mine has handled wind up to around 14 knots (guesstimation).
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 09:23 AM
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United States, IL, New Lenox
Joined Jan 2012
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And once again; I can't say enough about how GREAT their Tech Support is!!!!
If I didn't have recent surgery that has grounded me the last 9 days, I'd be out flying it!!!
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 09:23 AM
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United States, AZ, Flagstaff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruff1 View Post
dennis, you'll love this bird. I'm in a club, and my instructor raves about it. Even with the stock electronics (i have had no problems) and the recommended battery she'll buzz around at 1/2 throttle and occasional bursts for about 10 minutes. If winds-aloft are up, give her more throttle; you don't have to worry about getting it down-wind, mine has handled wind up to around 14 knots (guesstimation).
+1!
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 11:20 AM
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Angels Camp, California
Joined Jan 2006
920 Posts
Thanks!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sykon View Post
Hi guys,

Got those pictures for you. First thing though, credit for this method should be given to Kurt over at 2bfly.com. He suggested this method in the comments under his and brother's review of the Sensei. It works slick.

Get a piece of brass strip from the LHS 3/4 inch (19mm) wide. They come in 1 ft lengths, about $2.00 each. Bend a 90 at one end in your vise or whatever. My bend was 5/8 inch (15mm) from the end by guess and that turned out to be perfect. The brass comes in several thickness, I choose the middle one which is 1mm thick. It's not so thick it would damage on the way in, not so thin it won't lift the foam off the sticky stuff.

I used a razor blade to cut around the seam of the cowl just deep enough to not cut into the fuselage. The cowl is only 1/4 in (7mm) thick so you won't be cutting very deep at all. In fact, you'll mostly just be feeling along the seam for the few glued parts which you gently cut through to the 1/4 inch depth.

Then I squeezed, not pulled, the cowl a little bit and you'll see where it raises up a little 'cause its not glued there. On one of the flat areas, not the curves from top to side, I shoehorned in the new tool and then started gently working towards the top curve. The tool will slide along until you hit some sticky, where you then lean the tool back a little toward the tail of the plane to gently lift the cowl away from the sticky. I used a little wing to wing motion and a little back toward the tail motion. You'll easily get the hang of it.

As the glue breaks free, one side will let go first. Then remove the tool and shoehorn in on the other side and work the other glued spot. Don't try to work the tool to far into the curves. Work the flats and the cowl won't break.

In my pictures, the cracks in the cowl were from the crash, not the removal. One picture I took with the tool on the fuselage so you could see how far under the cowl the tool was reaching. Just about perfect for the job.

The pictures are a recreation of the procedure. My dear wife agreed to hold the tool in various positions to show how it's done (thanks, honey!).

Hope I've covered everything. If a question, please ask.
That was a BIG help!~
My ESC caught fire. (Luckily I didn't get into the air) I could have gone down in the California dry grass. I got the fire out and needed to replace the esc. That method kept me from cutting open the cowl incorrectly. I'm sure glad I looked here before just starting cutting.
Thanks!
LannyG
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Old Jul 31, 2012, 06:30 PM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
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North AL, USA
Joined Nov 2009
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Got in a couple of flights with 8-10 knot wind on the runway, probably a bit higher aloft. This bird handles wind so well; I actually managed to land it with some shifting crosswinds. Some noobie over-correction, but still enough envelope to compensate for that.
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 06:58 AM
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United States, NY, Champlain
Joined Jul 2012
238 Posts
My Sensei finally arrived yesterday, well packaged with no damage. My HK order also arrived with the Turnigy Mega 400W v2 charger and 3 zippy lipos. The assembly of the plane was straight forward, CG was spot on right out of the box with the Flyzone battery provided. I was disappointed to find that the Zippy batteries will need an adapter( XT-60 to bullets) that I had not purchased, being a one hour drive to lhs or 4/6 days for shipping.

I have a question about the lateral balance. I weighed each of the 3 landing gear points insuring that a level attitude was maintained. The results were: Nose wheel 292g/10.25oz, Stb. wheel 587g/20.75oz, and Port wheel 554g/19.50oz. I also determined that it would require adding 11g/0.375oz to the port wing tip to achieve balance. When I was building balsa models years ago, I always balanced the model before covering with weights hidden in the wing tip. My question is, how necessary is it to achieve this balance on a foamie and what is an acceptable method.

Thanks

Dennis
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 08:00 AM
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Lateral balance

I admit I did not check the initial lateral balance. But I did introduce some significant lateral imbalancing with my experiments with ballast; and also, the battery moves around sometimes; in spite of that I could not tell in flight if it was unbalanced; side wind seem to affects it at times.
That said, it is always a good idea to have a plane perfectly balanced. In my experiments, a metal washer stuck to the plane with white electrician tape worked great... once you have the perfect balance, you can always glue your washer or other flat weight to the plane...
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Old Aug 01, 2012, 10:14 AM
A Day @ a Time - Matt. 6:25-34
ruff1's Avatar
North AL, USA
Joined Nov 2009
1,896 Posts
Didn't even bother checking lateral balance; maybe I should have, but it isn't a factor on mine. No aileron trim off 0 required.
Completely stock setup.

Not sure of the lateral effect on this bird Dennis. Some dihedral exists that may cancel out a certain amount of variation anyway as long as the wing panels are symmetrical. Maybe those more-experienced than I can chime in.
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Last edited by ruff1; Aug 01, 2012 at 10:19 AM.
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