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Old Aug 19, 2011, 08:18 AM
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iphone IR controller - SYMA s107

Hello and greetings to all,

I was hoping the keen hobbyists and enthusiast / engineers on the forum can help out here.

I have the Syma S107 and an iphone 4. No doubt you will have heard Griffin will be launching their iphone controlled 3ch Heli in the run up to xmas.

From my research I have already found this is available on the market today under a different name.

Happy Cow make the helicopter 777 http://www.rc-fever.com/happy-cow-77...e-p-13435.html

The thing is, there is already an app on the apple store to control your syma s107 but no way to source the IR transmitter for the iphone.

Basically the app make sounds that covert into infrared signals to control your S107g.

The app is called i.copterSyma - just search syma on the app store. The transmitter works by plugging into audio jack.


Can some tell me where I can get the transmitter from the happy cow heli. Or make 1.

Below are some useful links

I know just cutting a headphone jack and wiring 2-3 940nm Infrared LEDS is not going to work. As the below solution is for only 1 off shots bit like changing channels on TV. Where as the Syma tx sends constant signals to the s107. so lots more POWER required.

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-...33B_5Eb7XBWa_Q


What I need is something like this http://www.irdroid.com/ which has a battery between the input and the output.




Griffins tx from phone has 3 AAA batteries. So work out the current and load required etc. ???

I Badly want to control and fly my S107g from my iphone soon.

Please HELP!!!!

ps the redeye mini just wont cut it!!!
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Old Aug 20, 2011, 09:12 AM
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As for the heli, another thread was already started about it and it didn't go far...............

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1479715
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Old Aug 21, 2011, 06:28 PM
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the app says to hook teh headphone jack to your the controller, not sure how....looks interesting i am downloading to my phone now

iController 2011 01 beta1 (0 min 59 sec)



looks like they also make the little controllery, but i cant find anywhere to get one

attop (0 min 40 sec)
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 02:58 AM
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THATS WOT I MEAN, if i cant find one to buy i am in 2 minds to make 1.

looks cool, what do you think?

saves me buying a whole new heli just to fly my syma via the iphone!
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 09:08 PM
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I have made a ir adaptor that was the same setup as the one in your first post, it worked with my 6 in 1 out tv switchbox but the range was only about 2 inches!

Now I know about (and have installed) the syma app I want to make the hardware, as mentioned in a few pages on the net it is possible that the ir signal comes from a mix of the left and right channels to increase the frequency of the ir signal, I know the range on the instructables ir is quite limited, I have been following the iPhly thread on here for a while, the iPhly app generates a PPM signal out of the jack and then it can be connected to a standard Tx module, 35MHZ, 2.4Ghz and so on, however the output of the jack is too low for most module to hear and the iPhly page shows a op-amp circuit to boost the signals power output, most of these op-amp chips and two in one chip, maybe use one for left, one for right with a IR LED on each output?

some people in the iPhly thread have used a transistor rather than an op-amp, I'm sure I've seen on one page anout these iPhone controlled choppers that you have to charge the Tx pulg with the same cable you would use to charge the heli, so I would presume that any IR hardware we try to make would have to.....
  1. be powered by about 3V, a single LiPo or 2 AAA
  2. need one or two boosters to give the IR LEDs enough power to be usefull
  3. be small enough to be worth doing

I'm busy this week but this is on my project list for sure!
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 03:28 AM
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thats gr8 news u understand where i am coming from on this 1.

yes some kind of power source will need to be added to increase the range of the IR LED's.

please keep us posted on progress. so were we can get that tx from in the you tube clips.

i suspect that tx has a lipo batt which is recharged.

i really want to see this project come off. its so cool.

but i dont understand why the people who made the app have made no mention as where to buy the IR transmitter from.

Plus i dont want blow my 600 pound iphone up. just f ing around.


Quote:
Originally Posted by djdavies83 View Post
I have made a ir adaptor that was the same setup as the one in your first post, it worked with my 6 in 1 out tv switchbox but the range was only about 2 inches!

Now I know about (and have installed) the syma app I want to make the hardware, as mentioned in a few pages on the net it is possible that the ir signal comes from a mix of the left and right channels to increase the frequency of the ir signal, I know the range on the instructables ir is quite limited, I have been following the iPhly thread on here for a while, the iPhly app generates a PPM signal out of the jack and then it can be connected to a standard Tx module, 35MHZ, 2.4Ghz and so on, however the output of the jack is too low for most module to hear and the iPhly page shows a op-amp circuit to boost the signals power output, most of these op-amp chips and two in one chip, maybe use one for left, one for right with a IR LED on each output?

some people in the iPhly thread have used a transistor rather than an op-amp, I'm sure I've seen on one page anout these iPhone controlled choppers that you have to charge the Tx pulg with the same cable you would use to charge the heli, so I would presume that any IR hardware we try to make would have to.....
  1. be powered by about 3V, a single LiPo or 2 AAA
  2. need one or two boosters to give the IR LEDs enough power to be usefull
  3. be small enough to be worth doing

I'm busy this week but this is on my project list for sure!
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 04:30 AM
We can rebuild it!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobby_v View Post
please keep us posted on progress. so were we can get that tx from in the you tube clips.


but i dont understand why the people who made the app have made no mention as where to buy the IR transmitter from.

Plus i dont want blow my 600 pound iphone up. just f ing around.
I don't get why they have not started to sell the dongle on it's own, I saw a griffen/happy cow sell for 11 and 1.99 shipping, so wish I had bid, I would have opened up that dongle within seconds of getting it!

My phone has a dead back light and a temperamental home button after it went for a swim, if something goes wrong it won't matter too much as I have not made a claim on it yet.

I really want to jump rite in on this, I'm ready to breakup a spare Tx and pull some transistors out of an old ESC but as I have not yet built my little workshop and I have an iminant mother in law visit in T MINUS 60 HOURS there just aint time this week. hopefully I'll have some results next week or someting, it would be nice to be the first to do it after so many ideas have been done before I can do them.

Also if I pull this off I may start to offer kits or ready made dongles for people who don't have the tools or skill build their own,
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 04:58 AM
We can rebuild it!
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Man I have a problem.......

these things are addictive, I can confirm the two LED without power will not work!

Edit: had a throttle reaction but nothing that you could fly with.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdavies83 View Post
Man I have a problem.......

these things are addictive, I can confirm the two LED without power will not work!

Edit: had a throttle reaction but nothing that you could fly with.

thats because - that solution is for a shot or 2 like changing tv channels or making the camera take a photo.

Where as the Syma and most heli Tx send a constant bombarardment of signals to the heli to keep it in flight!

you will notice your tv remote will not work while the heli is in the air. This proves the theory that the tx is transmitting the whole time!!! MORE POWER and RANGE required.

DJ Davies i will be your 1st customer (seeing that i am the Senior User) lol in project prince 2 terms.

i hope you can put a youtube clip up soon and give me a large discount! otherwise ill have to get my hands dirty soon!
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 06:47 AM
We can rebuild it!
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all the parts I just tried can from junk and a busted Tx, listening to the output with headphones there is a constant high pitch tone on the right channel and the pulses/chirps in the left channel only when the throttle is raised, I just connected a LiPo throught a 2n3904 transistor for each channel as follows

BARE IN MIND I'M STILL NEW TO THIS AND NOONE SHOULD TRY TO COPY ME UNLESS THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING, I WILL NOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT COME FROM INGORING THIS MESSAGE.
  • emitter to ground/NEG
  • Base to headphone channel
  • collector to NEG leg of LED
,

I plugged in the LiPo without being connected to the phone and one of the IR LED burnt out, I think this is because I must have fried the transistor when I pulled it out of an old smoke alarm.

I have to down tools and come back to this another time, I'll need to dig out a new transistor from somewhere and I really need to get on the house work or my life won't be worth living aft 16:30 today.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 07:14 AM
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dude the LEDs need to be connected in a certain way.

like the right way round!!! maybe thats why it burnt out.

see my previous links posted. he talks about this


Quote:
Originally Posted by djdavies83 View Post
all the parts I just tried can from junk and a busted Tx, listening to the output with headphones there is a constant high pitch tone on the right channel and the pulses/chirps in the left channel only when the throttle is raised, I just connected a LiPo throught a 2n3904 transistor for each channel as follows

BARE IN MIND I'M STILL NEW TO THIS AND NOONE SHOULD TRY TO COPY ME UNLESS THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING, I WILL NOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES THAT COME FROM INGORING THIS MESSAGE.
  • emitter to ground/NEG
  • Base to headphone channel
  • collector to NEG leg of LED
,

I plugged in the LiPo without being connected to the phone and one of the IR LED burnt out, I think this is because I must have fried the transistor when I pulled it out of an old smoke alarm.

I have to down tools and come back to this another time, I'll need to dig out a new transistor from somewhere and I really need to get on the house work or my life won't be worth living aft 16:30 today.
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 07:53 AM
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Pretty sure I had them in the correct orientation, I'll pick up new transistors soon I'll the breadboard on a 300in1 electronics kit I got as a kid.

Still no time for anymore hardware today, I'll probably still do a little research though.
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Old Aug 27, 2011, 09:29 AM
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just a little update on my, erm, attempts.....

bought a dual opamp and a couple of new 2n3904 transistors, when I next get time to experiment I'll be using the ye olde 300-1 electronics lab kit with a breadboard I got when I was about 14.

1. try the headphone channel trigger transistor method again.
2. try the opamp booster found in the iPhly thread with the Ir LEDs hooked up as per one of the earlier link but hopefully with more power.

If all else fails I'll nag a girlfriend into buying me a complete heli and dongle package, I'll reverse engineer the dongle and share whats inside.
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Old Aug 30, 2011, 02:38 PM
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Your LED is frying out because you're giving it too much voltage which is allowing it to pull to much current.

You should watch this:

Calculate LED Forward Voltage (5 min 36 sec)


The forward voltage of an IR LED should be somewhere around 1.5v!

Also, not sure why you keep talking about transistors? Transistors and LEDs don't really have much to do with each other. Other than the fact that a transistor can turn an LED on and off. A transistor is a switch. On the other hand every LED has to have a resistor usually. You need to test your LEDs and see what their forward voltage is, then put a proper resistor on each one, don't wire them up in series, it's just asking for trouble.

Once you know the forward voltage the LEDs take here's a link to a great calculator program so that you'll know what size resistor to use.

http://www.jtice.com/led_pro/led_pro.htm

Finally here's a link to a resistor color calculator so that you can find the proper resistor to use.

http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronic...calculator.php

Edit:

Also forgot to add, the positive post on a brand new LED is always the longer post. If you're using an LED that's post have been cut, take a look at the insides of the LED, the side that is smaller is the positive post. The side that looks like a flag is the negative.
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Old Aug 31, 2011, 02:33 AM
We can rebuild it!
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I had a feeling I may need to use a resistor for each LED, thanks for confirming that.

The reason for the transistors is that there is not enough current coming from the iPhone headphone jack to power the LED, so based on what I have read in the iPhly thread some people have used a transistor triggered by the headphone channel to give pulses of enough power from a battery to produce a strong enough PPM for a Tx module to hear (in my case enough power for the LED to give a useable range).

Without a resistor the transistor was giving my Ir LEDs too much power, As I was using Ir LEDs pulled from an old 6020-1 Tx i have no idea what rating they are so I'll try and buy a couple of Ir LEDs today that I will know the specs of, use the transistor to give the required amount of power and then resistor to give a the correct amount of current.
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