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Old Dec 16, 2011, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by tclaridge View Post
rico, I did fly the Scimitar with the rudder control rods at the outer most hole on the servo arm. IT WAS TOO MUCH THROW and stalled the surface. I moved the controls arms back to the stock position which is in the second hole from the outermost position (see the manual).

So if you move the rudder control rods to the outer most hole in the servo arm, and then reduce the rudder travel to +/-80%, you will still have the maximum control on the rudder, and the nose steering won't bind.

Sorry about your servo arm. I agree I don't like the drill method after I looked at the geometry. For your fix, I would try to start with a new servo arm, or ask Horizon to send you a fresh one, and then do the fix up above if you only have a 6 channel Rx.
Good idea TC. The above helps. But I'm still not getting full rudder throw. I have to move the rudder travel to 70% to not bind the servo. Tried all combinations of rudder travel and D/R. Still too far short of full throw for my liking, never mind "extreme" like in QQ's program. 7 channel is the only way to get full rudder and acrobatics out of the Scimitar.
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Old Dec 16, 2011, 04:11 PM
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Kannapolis, NC
Joined Nov 2007
186 Posts
Couple more Suggestions

Flew it today for the first time. Have a few suggestions

1. Flys off grass fine just don't try to pull it off the ground too fast. Kinda like the Habu build up speed then climb out.

2. As stated in an earlier post packing tape to inside of rudders. Had a ton of grass build up from the prop slinging it into the side of the rudders.

3. Paint flakes off easy clear coat with Minwax Polycrylic. Will help protect the finish. Have sprayed all my foam planes with it.

4. Follow directions in the retract box. File a slot on the front strut. Regardless of how tight I tightened the set screws front axle would twist on harder landings.

5. Don't chop throttle and try to turn on final it will tip stall. Make turn then reduce throttle.

Really flys good. Obviously not as fast as the 27-Q but still fast. Looks great in the air !!!
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Old Dec 16, 2011, 04:56 PM
No meat = no pudding
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Machesney Park, IL
Joined Jul 2008
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Originally Posted by dtacmed View Post
Flew it today for the first time. Have a few suggestions

1. Flys off grass fine just don't try to pull it off the ground too fast. Kinda like the Habu build up speed then climb out.

2. As stated in an earlier post packing tape to inside of rudders. Had a ton of grass build up from the prop slinging it into the side of the rudders.

3. Paint flakes off easy clear coat with Minwax Polycrylic. Will help protect the finish. Have sprayed all my foam planes with it.

4. Follow directions in the retract box. File a slot on the front strut. Regardless of how tight I tightened the set screws front axle would twist on harder landings.

5. Don't chop throttle and try to turn on final it will tip stall. Make turn then reduce throttle.

Really flys good. Obviously not as fast as the 27-Q but still fast. Looks great in the air !!!
+1 on the looks!

Yes, there are a couple of minor bugs with the landing gear and the CG is a bit questionable, but I think E-Flite did a great job on this plane overall. It's an expensive plane and it's annoying when you buy something that's kind of expensive and it isn't perfect. But, that seems to be the nature of RC airplanes. If you want one that's just been released, it will probably have a minor issue or two. That's why some people watch the threads and wait a while before buying, which is smart. And, to Horizon's credit, they generally have a history of making good on problems that come up. Bad prop on the Radian? Yep, and they made one available to people at no cost. Issue with the DX6i? Yep, and they ponied up and fixed it and in many cases went above and beyond to keep consumer's happy. This is no different. It wouldn't surprise me at all to see Dave post that there's either a very specific procedure that they've figured out to fix the retracts or a part that they'll make available for free if they need to.

Okay Dave, don't make a liar out of me now...
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Old Dec 16, 2011, 09:02 PM
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Played w/the CG a bit today. Moved it to recommended position and people noticed it flew smoother and its easier to land but nowhere as much fun to fly so I moved it back to a more neutral setting. Get a much better spin that way. Though it can wrap up so tight that it does eat quite a bit of altitude druing the recoveries!
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Old Dec 16, 2011, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by brwilkins View Post
+1 on the looks!

Yes, there are a couple of minor bugs with the landing gear and the CG is a bit questionable, but I think E-Flite did a great job on this plane overall. It's an expensive plane and it's annoying when you buy something that's kind of expensive and it isn't perfect. But, that seems to be the nature of RC airplanes. If you want one that's just been released, it will probably have a minor issue or two. That's why some people watch the threads and wait a while before buying, which is smart. And, to Horizon's credit, they generally have a history of making good on problems that come up. Bad prop on the Radian? Yep, and they made one available to people at no cost. Issue with the DX6i? Yep, and they ponied up and fixed it and in many cases went above and beyond to keep consumer's happy. This is no different. It wouldn't surprise me at all to see Dave post that there's either a very specific procedure that they've figured out to fix the retracts or a part that they'll make available for free if they need to.

Okay Dave, don't make a liar out of me now...
I don't think that having to go out and buy a 7 channel receiver is being a perfectionist. I think people are either flying 7 channel and having a blast or will soon discover they can push even further and have a blast, and those on 6 channel can't get above 70% rudder throw. ignorance is bliss. Had I not looked carefully and not operated the rudder while looking at the steering gear RETRACTED with the plane inverted, I would have never known about the binding and probably think the plane is great. I bet the Scimitar is great on low rates. But we buy these radical planes to push the envelope, and to limit the envelope isn't a minor glitch to me. Sooner or later the gears will strip and flying time will be lower right away because of battery drain. I bet you're flying on a 7 channel, and if your not, I'm truly happy it doesn't bother you.

respectfully, Ricodap
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 06:53 PM
Yes my name is Cessna.
USA, FL, Tampa
Joined Mar 2010
196 Posts
Got mine Thursday and used standard LG. got retracts but not till yesterday so went with the ones in the box. I am surprised at having to push the battery all the way forward. Barley gets the middle Velcro wrap. Even in that case there is little weight on the front LG and taxing is pretty bouncy. I found this plane to not be a screamer but fast enough for my tastes. I do find the shape and colors hard to orient. I am not sure there is any better option but the triangle in the sky is tough to follow when it is spinning like a top. Which leads me to say this plane will spin very easily. If you are not careful you can spin and the earlier comment of you need some space to recover is very true. I know there are many accomplished 3d pilots who will say that it is fine but I personally find it a little heart throbbing and thus am staying 5 mistakes high rather than my normal 3 mistakes with a new plane. I do find the plane easily to land and takeoff ... Just a little touchy way up there until I get better. Makes my 3dhs extra 300 seem pretty docile.
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 07:44 PM
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I played with some mixing today to see if the RUDR-->AIL would take out the roll coupling. It did at about -30% rudder to aileron. I may need to fine tune this number, but it took most of it out. So now it will knife edge and flat turn using rudder with only slight aileron adjustment.

Next will be so see if this mix contradicts the vector thrust. It is hard to get in flight time as it will be cold and rainy for awhile. I am curious to think what other flyers are doing for mixing, if any.
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 07:24 PM
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United States, NC, Wilson
Joined Mar 2005
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Maiden +4

Did the maiden flight today +4 more today.
• Stock setup
• Retracts
• Agree - flip the clevis on the steering pushrod opposite of instructions
• Drill another hole in the provided servo arm closer to the output shaft on the steering servo. Throw away the included keeper and just put a small wheel collar on the part of the pushrod that pokes through the top of the servo arm. Worked like a charm with no hint of coming off after 5 TO's and landings on GRASS. The hole placement on the servo arm and flipping the clevis that connects to the steering mechanism on the nose wheel gives me plenty of steering without binding when the nosewheel is extended or retracted.
• Agree - file a flat place on the landing gear wire where the wheel axel is tightened down with those two black screws...ON ALL THREE LANDING GEARS. Yes - the wheel on the two rear gears will eventually go wonky on grass if you don't do that. It took 5 TO's and landings, but it finally happened.
• CG at the in the middle of the recommended range – worked fine with mild drop of nose when plane is inverted.
• 4200 MaH Hyperion 35c 4s pack gave about 7-8 minutes of good flying with throttle management, and about 5-6 minutes of a lot of WOT.
• I don’t like the prop. I balanced the heck out of it according to the instructions and still have a bit of vibration at about ½ throttle but smoothes-out at WOT. That prop is LOUD! I am going to experiment with some APCe props on later flights.
• Not a fast bird = 74 mph on RC Speedo upwind, 90 mph downwind for about 82 mph average. It’s the first time I used the program on my IPhone so I am not sure how reliable those numbers are.
• The single axis vectored thrust is crazy cool. On the 5th flight I was doing flat spins on high-rate rudder and high-rate vectoring that seemed to just hang in the air without coming down. I gotta experiment with that a LOT more.
• JR 11x on a 6 channel receiver worked fine.
• Two clicks right aileron, and two clicks of up elevator on the maiden flight and I was in business.
• TO’s should be done as others mention in this thread – let it get some speed on the ground and rotate. You can hit full throttle and pull up elevator on TO if you want to, but it won’t be pretty.
• Landings are a piece of cake (unless your landing gear goes wonky – see comment above about that). I found that keeping low throttle going until you are over the runway and then chopping power and letting it settle-in is the best way.
• Low rates on ailerons as recommended in the instructions were too “high” for me, so I softened them up a bit.
• I put tape on the inside of the vertical fins and rudder as was recommended in earlier posts. I am glad I did. That prop slings all kinds of things into the foam when bumping along a grass runway.
• It was a damage-free day (except for some landing gear adjustments). I did not get this plane for the speed – I got it for the opportunity to play with vectored thrust. For speed I have a Habu 32 on a TAM 8s fan/motor combo that goes 140 mph+.
I hope everyone enjoys their Scimitar as much as I did, and will…
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 07:30 PM
More Motors, More Fun... :-)
nioa's Avatar
Phoenix, AZ
Joined Jan 2008
700 Posts
Great info. Thanks +1, or should I say +4
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 08:29 PM
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Great and informative post. Tiny wheel collar on pushrod is a great idea. Thanks!!!
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 09:32 PM
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Joined Nov 2005
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Crashguru, nice summary. I found the same things and couldn't state them better. I am going to add some flats spots to my gear wires. I also had to reduce the ailerons below the suggested low rates and raise the expo a little.
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 08:36 AM
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Kannapolis, NC
Joined Nov 2007
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Flew 4 times yesterday off pavement. No problems except seemed my landings were too fast and it was wanting to "Bounce" back into the air. Need to figure out how to land a little easier. In the air and take offs were great.
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 06:32 PM
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United States, NC, Wilson
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Originally Posted by ricodap View Post
Great and informative post. Tiny wheel collar on pushrod is a great idea. Thanks!!!
Just don't forget the threadlock for the worm screw on the wheel collar!
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 07:11 PM
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United States, CO, Lakewood
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GryphonRCU View Post
Either there has been a motor change or a typing error regarding the motor.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/EFL10175_EN.pdf
Page 26 of manual shows:
EFLM7400 BL32 Brushless Outrunner
Motor, 1010 Kv
(same as previous parts list).


Under new parts list:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...50-kv-EFLM7400
BL32 Brushless Outrunner Motor, 1150 Kv by E-flite (EFLM7400)



****Which is it???


Gryphon
anyone ever figure this one out?
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 07:32 PM
Horizon Hobby Employee
Mahomet, Illinois
Joined Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by jdubg23 View Post
anyone ever figure this one out?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...490761&page=17

Already answered on Nov 29, post 249, which I think is the same page as the question you quoted.
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