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Old Nov 12, 2012, 07:19 AM
CEF
Panama, San Carlos
Joined Oct 2011
9 Posts
screws/bolts for brackets

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Originally Posted by sjharris68 View Post
Sad news from the front, binned it on take off and ripped off nose.
Very sad, "out with the epoxy" and it will be as good as new.
I think I have ended up with down and left thrust due to the firewall warping as it really went over to the left on take off.
Maidened the Hell-cat as well and that made up for the sadness.
I now have a grin from ear to ear!
I am so glad I have this Tiger Moth though as the two are just so much fun and as you can imagine, trainee pilots in the commonwealth would of learnt in Tiger Moth before moving on to Hell-cats in the later part of the war.
I notice you have screw heads on the side of the fuse where the brackets attach. Can I ask what method you did use as it makes sense not to glue but I was hoping to draw on your experience and ask just exactly what you did use here. It would seem that one good crash and this plane would be history. It is really almost to pretty to fly. Many thanks for your response.
Bill
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 07:56 AM
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taz101's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Oxenford
Joined Oct 2010
2,148 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptybill View Post
I notice you have screw heads on the side of the fuse where the brackets attach. Can I ask what method you did use as it makes sense not to glue but I was hoping to draw on your experience and ask just exactly what you did use here. It would seem that one good crash and this plane would be history. It is really almost to pretty to fly. Many thanks for your response.
Bill
If you READ the thread you will find the answer!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pherz View Post
I received my HK Tiger Moth kit. Looking at the wings, they appear to be fairly fragile. Has anyone tried inserting carbon fiber rods into the wings?

My thought is that I could cut a 3/16's channel into the bottom of each wing. Then insert a 20" x 3/16" rod in this channel and glue it in with Gorilla glue. The weight of the rods and the glue would add only about 15 g to the entire plane near the cg.

Any opinions?
Again READ the thread to find the answers!!
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 08:18 AM
CEF
Panama, San Carlos
Joined Oct 2011
9 Posts
I noticed the words "the supplier does not cooperate with us any more". This is not good news for someone who just received my TM. Does this mean the end of the line for this product and no future parts availablity?
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 01:31 PM
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New Zealand, Canterbury, Christchurch
Joined Mar 2012
64 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pherz View Post
I received my HK Tiger Moth kit. Looking at the wings, they appear to be fairly fragile. Has anyone tried inserting carbon fiber rods into the wings?

My thought is that I could cut a 3/16's channel into the bottom of each wing. Then insert a 20" x 3/16" rod in this channel and glue it in with Gorilla glue. The weight of the rods and the glue would add only about 15 g to the entire plane near the cg.

Any opinions?
Well I have done just that as per some very good write up in this tread, look back and you you see.
I had a massive smash on the weekend due to pilot error and making the big error of getting the plane in front of the sun.
Broke one of the struts and just a minor crack in the lower wing at the fues.
Really tough plane!
All fixed and ready for the sky again.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 07:54 AM
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yorkshire UK
Joined Oct 2007
4,232 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pherz View Post
I received my HK Tiger Moth kit. Looking at the wings, they appear to be fairly fragile. Has anyone tried inserting carbon fiber rods into the wings?

My thought is that I could cut a 3/16's channel into the bottom of each wing. Then insert a 20" x 3/16" rod in this channel and glue it in with Gorilla glue. The weight of the rods and the glue would add only about 15 g to the entire plane near the cg.

Any opinions?
Bottom wings need it where they join at the middle, I used carbon strip as it's easy, you just cut along a steel ruler not too deep and glue in the carbon.
Top wings not needed but if you want to make some dihedral withou relying on the wires then you could do it.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 08:01 AM
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yorkshire UK
Joined Oct 2007
4,232 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptybill View Post
I notice you have screw heads on the side of the fuse where the brackets attach. Can I ask what method you did use as it makes sense not to glue but I was hoping to draw on your experience and ask just exactly what you did use here. It would seem that one good crash and this plane would be history. It is really almost to pretty to fly. Many thanks for your response.
Bill
Cut out a small block of foam and glue in a bit of wood to screw into, and this plane is very tough and any parts that break can either be glued back together or something fabricating from balsa etc so dont worry about it just fly it and enjoy it, make sure you have some right and down thrust though and get the cog right and maiden in calm conditions and you will be ok.
As has been said if you read the thread you will find a few mods that will make things safer and better and easier to take apart.
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 02:50 PM
Registered User
New Zealand, Canterbury, Christchurch
Joined Mar 2012
64 Posts
Hi all.
Wonderful flying day here, out at dawn and almost an hour of slow flying with the tiger and a blast with the hellcat...fun!
I have broken one of the plastic cabine stuts at the base and have repaired it with Super Jet CA twice and seems to be quite strong, but a nose over is enough to break the joint again.
Any suggestions of what glue to use to fix this?
I have used epoxy too but that was no good either.
Not sure if this is ABS plastic or not.
I might have to drill and insert a small wire for a true repair, but a suitable solvent that can meld the two parts back together would also still be required.
Any ideas?
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Old Nov 17, 2012, 03:51 AM
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yorkshire UK
Joined Oct 2007
4,232 Posts
I would just put a wire through it and super glue it all together again, should hold then, I used to heat the wire up with a soldering iron and then melt it into the plastic but this plastic looks like it probably wont take well to that.
Some sort of flexible join would be good but with the flying wires pulling on it would have to be carefully thought out with the flying wire going through the bottom of the joint.

Another idea would be to replace all the struts with some stronger home made ply ones and put them right through the wings.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 12:03 AM
" Plain Crazy! "
Hondajet's Avatar
Australia, WA, Broome
Joined Oct 2008
2,374 Posts
Revive 2013 !

Operations now out of Broome WA........

Beach Fly In this morning.

HJ
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 04:57 AM
" Plain Crazy! "
Hondajet's Avatar
Australia, WA, Broome
Joined Oct 2008
2,374 Posts
Broome Base

Start Up and ready to taxi today...........in winds SW 17kmph gusting to 20kmph.
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 12:28 PM
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CarToon's Avatar
Los Angeles
Joined Feb 2011
1,474 Posts
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Originally Posted by Hondajet View Post
Start Up and ready to taxi today...........in winds SW 17kmph gusting to 20kmph.
Very cool shot....looks like the real thing.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 08:42 AM
" Plain Crazy! "
Hondajet's Avatar
Australia, WA, Broome
Joined Oct 2008
2,374 Posts
Tks....and really flies like it! I have it trimmed out pertty well and slow takeoffs as
scale with tail rising and a realistic ground roll are so stable at only 70% power on.

All landings are flown on tail high with a little power left on or a on off adjustment all the way to touchdown in windier conditions with the touchdown aimed at the higher power setting left on as required for wind shear, then a little off as the wheels touch down to continue the tail high run down at just above idle.

HJ
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 02:17 PM
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Jan 2007
1,688 Posts
In-plane Motor Thrust Testing

This describes an easy method of measuring motor thrust with the motor, prop and ESC in the plane. I am publishing it in the threads of the planes that I own, and in the Power System forum. I have searched for, and not found, a method such as this. If it already exists, I’m sure someone will let me know .

I have looked at various techniques used for motor thrust testing and most of them seem to use some sort of test bench, where the motor, prop and ESC are removed from the plane (e.g. this thread). I have constructed a test bench for myself in the past, where the motor was attached to a pivot arm resting on a digital scale and pushed downwards. This was both fiddly to set-up and felt dangerous, as the prop blades were whizzing horizontally near my eyes as I tried to read the scale, so I have hardly used it (in fact, I forget where it is now!).

While looking at my digital kitchen scale the other day, I realised that there could be a way to measure motor thrust accurately and safely, without removing anything from the plane… and literally on the kitchen table! The test set-up is shown in the photos. Since a digital scale is based on strain gauges, it can operate from any orientation (correct?). I made up a simple “L” bracket so that the scale could hang from it while not touching the table top. A string with two loops at the ends is then taped to the middle of the scale and the loops passed around the horizontal stabiliser. Planes without u/cs must rest on rollers to reduce friction as much as possible - I used 150mm lengths of plastic cable conduit. The “L” bracket is clamped to a table top so that the prop clears its end, and the plane is rested on books if necessary.

Attach the loops, power up the plane (with Wattmeter attached if required) and then switch the scale on and hang it on a the nail on the “L” bracket. Note the scale reading if it is not zero. Spin up the prop, slowly at first to verify everything is Ok and then give it WOT and note the maximum thrust (less the zero thrust if present). Takes about 1 minute, and you can change props and get another reading quickly and easily.

I would suggest that this could be a more accurate measurement of actual motor thrust than a test bench, since it allows for any blockage of airflow by a large fuselage frontal area (e.g. FW-190), it is certainly much faster to set-up. The accuracy of the rollers was checked by comparing the thrust for my FW-190 wheels down vs wheels up with rollers, which varied by only 5gm at 525gm. For testing of more powerful motors, I would use a padded strap to attach to the h. stab, and would add a safety line or strap attached to the clamp.

I use the FC 28-22 1200 kV motor from HK in most of my park flyers – it is light, powerful and easy to swap out. I measured 670gm thrust with a 10x3.8 prop and 525gm with a 10x5. This compares to a published max thrust of 710gm with 10x5 and a user review of 660gm for a 10x4.7. The FlyBrushless website shows max 385gm for a 28-22 1100kV motor with a 10x6 prop. These figures are fairly close, and in any case I am more interested in comparative, rather than absolute, thrust figures, to work out which is the best prop to use. My Art Tech Spit has a stock 4038-15 700kV motor and gives 730gm of thrust with a 10x5 prop. Since it’s AUW is 650gm with a 1500 mAh 3S pack, I have decided to not move it to 4S at the moment.
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 10:02 AM
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yorkshire UK
Joined Oct 2007
4,232 Posts
Cool, might give that a go when we get some kitchen scales lol.
Having enough thrust is important, just as important is the top speed or cruising speed, it needs to match the speed of the airframe, ie a 9*5 prop may provide similar thrust to a 8*6 but the 8*6 should give more top speed, the tiger moth needs less speed then a spitfire but is more draggy so needs more thrust so you have to work out which prop to use to get the speed and thrust needed.
It's all very interesting stuff, not that I use it that much now as I love my dlg gliders-the only thrust I need to worry about comes from my arm lol. When I started flying the gliders all the thrust related problems became a thing of the past, one of the main ones being thrust lines/torque steering etc not to mention balancing blades to reduce vibration.
Dont get me wrong I still like flying all my planes but gliding simplifies things in many ways, but then there are a lot of other things to get right and wrong on a glider trimming wise and cog wise things have to be set up just right for each flying condition to get the things to fly well.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 01:30 PM
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CarToon's Avatar
Los Angeles
Joined Feb 2011
1,474 Posts
Product warning.....

I crashed this plane on the second fight after some mods, and destroyed the LG. Be aware that if you buy this plane, there are NO spare parts available! If you wreck your LG like I did, you will be flying with spartan (ie bare metal) or custom made struts, unless you own some injection molding equipment.

I have had good service from HK in the past, but they really dropped the ball on this one, IMO.
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