Hey Brayden , welcome to the thread !

I cant comment on the Associated parts fitment suitability as I just dont break stuff LOL
I must be a good driver
Actually I think a lot of the credit goes to my functional, ugly yet effective EPP bumper . It takes a beating and protects the front end amazingly well , about the only thing I HAVE actually broken , is a front body pin post in a multiple roll over.

I have soooooo many spare parts for this truck that breakage isnt a problem LOL

Originally Posted by maddude155

wondering have any of you guys had any luck using rc18t parts on this truck?

DITTO

What options for parts are there??

Generally do 1/18th parts fit other 1/18th scale stuff?

Hi Ken , unfortunately the major players all have slightly different systems to ensure you buy their parts , our 1/18 Stadium trucks seem to be more a clone of the Trinity spider , but with enough differences again to not have 100% compatibility .

It really is a hit and miss , trial and error affair , things like suspension , as long as you get the right damper length can be played with , as can body shells etc , other stuff like gearboxes , drives , steering setups etc , not so much

Originally Posted by aussie slowman

Hi Ken , unfortunately the major players all have slightly different systems to ensure you buy their parts , our 1/18 Stadium trucks seem to be more a clone of the Trinity spider , but with enough differences again to not have 100% compatibility .

It really is a hit and miss , trial and error affair , things like suspension , as long as you get the right damper length can be played with , as can body shells etc , other stuff like gearboxes , drives , steering setups etc , not so much

Thanks Aussie slowman, Does this mean I should buy the replacement parts at HK while they are still available? What are the main parts that break/go bad???

Hi Ken , HK are pretty good at supplying the parts , and they have kept it up for a while now , so I dont see them not supplying them in the near future , but yes , I reckon its better to grab them now to future proof your car , the bonus is parts are SUPER cheap compared to "Name brand "stuff

Stock up on consumables first , these would be wheels/tyres , motor pinions ( soft brass , so they wear ) ,spur gears , diff gears ( heck whole diff assemblies are under $7 if you are platinum !!! ) , drive couplers ( they will wear ) .

After that , the next most likely things would be crash damage , so pretty much anything in the front drive assemblies , A-arms , dogbones , wheel cups, suspension, and front and rear towers . Drive shafts too , also grab some of the nuts/screws/fixings , they will come in handy if you tinker a lot and burr the existing ones .

I pretty much have one ( at least) of everything , because it is so affordable .

With HK you can go one of two ways , one is to order only the items you want that are in stock , because if something is on back order it will hold your whole order up .
But then order all the parts you want that are backordered in a second order ... doing it this way I have never had to wait more than a few weeks for the backorder stuff to arrive , and you get first dibs on them when they DO arrive .... sometimes stock comes in and is allocated to existing pre-orders without ever making it to " In -Stock " status on the webpage . Thats why sometimes you see people complain about waiting for spares , stock arrives and is allocated to people who have already bought and paid first !

These are great bash buggies, not world class racers , but they do really well for what they are
Best bang for buck I have found in 30 years of r/c ( and yep I mean that ! )

Make sure you try the drive coupler mod where you put about 5mm of heatshring on the outdrives ( these split easily and the heatshrink gives it added resistance , since doing mine I havent broken an outdrive )

to be totally honest , I even bought a second new car to use as a spare donor ( havent robbed one bit of it yet , but at $50 its less than buying a single Name Brand motor !!!

Originally Posted by aussie slowman

Hey Brayden , welcome to the thread !

I cant comment on the Associated parts fitment suitability as I just dont break stuff LOL
I must be a good driver
Actually I think a lot of the credit goes to my functional, ugly yet effective EPP bumper . It takes a beating and protects the front end amazingly well , about the only thing I HAVE actually broken , is a front body pin post in a multiple roll over.

I have soooooo many spare parts for this truck that breakage isnt a problem LOL

So thats were HK's parts stock went!

Thanks Aussie slowman, i now have a nice supply of spare parts on their way. Most stuff is in stock except a couple of screws and such.

I just got my two (so my 6yr old and I can race in the yard)

I'm still waiting on the radios, but the first thing I noticed when checking them over is that the only thing keeping the battery off the main shaft, is the rail on the bottom of the compartment, and the battery's have the bulge/bump, where the leads come off.
So my plan is to grind out a groove on the outside wall of the battery compartment so the battery can lie flat and snug against the rail and out of the way of the drive shaft.

Is there a better solution?

when I just crammed the battery in, it rode up and over the rail.

And as the radios are coming from China, there are also a few dozen extra, just in case, parts coming.

I love the shipping calculator, and there is something wrong with me, if I have 50g left of shipping weight, I've got to find something to add.

(probably why I've got drawers full of unused speed controllers and brushless motors )

Hiya DR welcome to the thread !
Ahhh that add for free shipping gets you everytime , I havent had an order from HK that has ever had more than 3 grams left at the end LOL
Thanks for mentioning the battery , it was one mod I made that I haven't shared !
Unlike you I didnt think too hard about it first up , until the day I was running it on some asphalt and had a high speed roll , driving it back to me after that it was making a god awful clicking sound , and I was sure I had blown a diff or something . Turned out it was the battery heatshrink being eaten away by the driveshaft dogbone end !

After that , I put my thinking cap on , I didnt really like the way the battery is held in , its hard to get that batery retaining strap on sometimes .
I decided to remove it altogether and just use good old VELCRO to anchor the battery , HK sells some really good cheap self adhesive velcro that I use to hold the batteries in place on my planes , so I got the scissors out and had a play .
the battery compartment floor is now fully velcro , and I also have a strip along the top chassis rail over the driveshaft . The battery now stands on edge with the lead feed side up . because it is anchored on the bottom AND side with velcro it cant move at all !
Have had a few rolls etc since and the battery has always stayed frimly in place .
Has the added benefit of using any battery that will fit in lengthwise too and all leads are no longer crimped or stressed to fit in .

Originally Posted by aussie slowman

Hiya DR welcome to the thread !
Ahhh that add for free shipping gets you everytime , I havent had an order from HK that has ever had more than 3 grams left at the end LOL
Thanks for mentioning the battery , it was one mod I made that I haven't shared !
Unlike you I didnt think too hard about it first up , until the day I was running it on some asphalt and had a high speed roll , driving it back to me after that it was making a god awful clicking sound , and I was sure I had blown a diff or something . Turned out it was the battery heatshrink being eaten away by the driveshaft dogbone end !

After that , I put my thinking cap on , I didnt really like the way the battery is held in , its hard to get that batery retaining strap on sometimes .
I decided to remove it altogether and just use good old VELCRO to anchor the battery , HK sells some really good cheap self adhesive velcro that I use to hold the batteries in place on my planes , so I got the scissors out and had a play .
the battery compartment floor is now fully velcro , and I also have a strip along the top chassis rail over the driveshaft . The battery now stands on edge with the lead feed side up . because it is anchored on the bottom AND side with velcro it cant move at all !
Have had a few rolls etc since and the battery has always stayed frimly in place .
Has the added benefit of using any battery that will fit in lengthwise too and all leads are no longer crimped or stressed to fit in .

Just looked at the battery compartment again, that looks like the perfect solution, and two fewer clips to deal with

read the excellent thread on painting it yourself, but figured that aussie slowman's ebay link was about the same $ as a fresh supply of paints.

found one with more room in the middle so I can use the turn the battery sideways and velcro trick with room to spare

Well, these little things are fast.

And I've used both of the extra dogbones I bought.

I even used the heat shrink trick, and my 6yr old still managed to break it, popped off the coupler and the heat shrink attached dog bone.

My 2 are supposedly coming today but that may mean that I have to go to PO and pick them up but all is good. Can't wait to get my daughter into racing these. (Hey I always did want a boy, of course she is perfect none the less

Would like to do these mods and Sorry for the ignorance, (i am a plane guy) but is there an exploded view of a 4wd rc car/truck that will explain what parts are what? Thanks!!!!

Originally Posted by kenstogie

Would like to do these mods and Sorry for the ignorance, (i am a plane guy) but is there an exploded view of a 4wd rc car/truck that will explain what parts are what? Thanks!!!!

If we are taking about the battery, it is easy to see once you've got the truck. There is a battery tray and it is designed for the battery to lay flat, with a strap over it to keep it in place. Give up on the strap, put some velcro on the bottom on the battery tray, and some on the side, and just velcro that sucker in.

Here is a pic I found on the web and you can see that the person has just placed a much larger batter in the tray without the strap. (so must be velcroed on the bottom)




for the heat shrink, you will see the 4 dog bones, one for each wheel that transmit the power from the center diff to the wheel.



I just covered the coupler part where the dog bone goes in. I did not try to cover part where the dog bone goes to each wheel.



Just put some heat shrink over the coupler and shrink it down to keep the dog bone in.

Now my son doesn't loose dog bones, but he has managed to pop the coupler/dog bone out, but it is easier to find and put back in.

and I now make him wait 24hrs before I fix his truck, in a futile effort to keep him from bashing and try to get him to focus on racing it.