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Old Sep 13, 2012, 09:20 PM
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jabtyler's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jun 2011
118 Posts
I had my gains up to 120 but it was erratic and would make violent shifts left and right so I started lowering them until I got to 90 and a much smoother hover and that is where this happened.

this is the second time I have heard of bullet connections being bad, so Im still learning about that. i was using this kit for motors and ESCs.

http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...-carbon/Detail

I always say there is no point in replacing parts when you can upgrade so, what do you use for motors ESCs and instead of bullet connectors? also what do you recommend for AP?

thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by MCrites View Post
My money is on a bullet connector/motor/esc failure. It was failing and giving you signals something was wrong, why didn't you land? I'm not positive how it works but doesn't it kill the motors when you tip over 45degrees? If it failed and you tipped at 1:20 it explains the motors all but stopping and it just carried the momentum till you hit the ground.

Also could have been a failed battery/cell. I accidentally ran one down too much and I lost power similar to that.I was coming in to land and I lost power then gained some back then lost more. Good thing I was 6ft off the ground but I can see it ending like this with a battery failure because once on the ground I had the juice to spin the motors, just not fast enough to climb. Multiple motors lose power, tips and sends it forward, then all lose power, then you get some juice to slowly spin the motors and level itself before impact.

Now that I walk through it... I can almost guarantee it was battery.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 10:30 PM
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Australia, SA, Renmark West
Joined Sep 2011
399 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabtyler View Post
I had my gains up to 120 but it was erratic and would make violent shifts left and right so I started lowering them until I got to 90 and a much smoother hover and that is where this happened.

this is the second time I have heard of bullet connections being bad, so Im still learning about that. i was using this kit for motors and ESCs.

http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...-carbon/Detail

I always say there is no point in replacing parts when you can upgrade so, what do you use for motors ESCs and instead of bullet connectors? also what do you recommend for AP?

thanks
After a couple of motor failures (fortunately on an octocopter) I've given up on bullet connectors between the ESC and motor - I solder everything now. More trouble to undo but never any doubt of the connection.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 11:36 PM
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tigar's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Sep 2001
1,127 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabtyler View Post
What do you use for motors ESCs and instead of bullet connectors?

thanks
Solder!
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 02:31 AM
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Joined Jul 2007
35 Posts
I had the same problem with 5.14a when I switched to new lower kV motors. Fixed my problem by raising the idle RPM one notch and now they all spin up at the same time. See if this will fix your problem.

Ken

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davebbb View Post
Out of interest, just tried 1.32 assistant and 5.14a,

Well, the Assistant seemed to have loads of issues, one main one being TX calibration, it just would not calibrate the sticks at all, everytime 3 or 4 points away from centre, when it did finally calibrate, i reset the gains to default, and took the Quad out back, useless, one motor started up very late and near flipped it, 2nd to 3rd try two motors were late starting up, and on default settings, was wandering all over the place, raised them, seemed better.

went back to 130 with 5.12, all good again, except i still now have one motor starting a little to late, but its not always the same motor, any ideas on why this is happening?

cheers
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 04:00 AM
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Panza's Avatar
France, Midi-Pyrénées, Toulouse
Joined Jun 2012
356 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerrymeister View Post
I still am not getting failsafe to work. I made sure to bind my spectrum D8 for failsafe with switch in failsafe position. Everything works great, however when I hit the failsafe switch, blue light comes on and within 5 seconds it makes a rapid assent. Any ideas at all would be helpful. Jasper I read your last post and have no ideas, but will keep thinking about why you get just red lights outside.
Jerry
Lol
Blue is for TX off
The multi stay 30 s hover
than go higter for the return way
just wait
you can retake control on manual or atti only
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 06:45 AM
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Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apeman88 View Post
I had the same problem with 5.14a when I switched to new lower kV motors. Fixed my problem by raising the idle RPM one notch and now they all spin up at the same time. See if this will fix your problem.

Ken
Ok Ken, will try this later today, Thanks, will let you know
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 03:00 PM
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Joined Sep 2012
1 Posts
Missing GCS CD

Hello everyone. I have the same problem where I bought the datalink but I assumed that all the software was on the DJI web page so I think I may have discarded the CD before I realized that the DJI web page did not actually have the ground control software. I installed the software at the link posted in this thread, which was a great help, but I am still missing the DJI Google Earth plugin and the Datalink USB Driver. Would someone mind uploading?

Thanks!
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 10:57 PM
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jabtyler's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Jun 2011
118 Posts
so it seems like I need to get rid of the bullets and work on my gains. any other ideas?

I did some searching and I couldent find exactly what I was looking for so Ill as here can someone explain in detail how to adjust gains, I want to make sure I am not missing something. or point me in the direction of the thread with that info please

thanks
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 05:09 PM
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Slovenia
Joined Feb 2011
848 Posts
Anyone knows if DJI software and m-view can be used on a tablet running Windows 7? (Asus tablet)
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 10:24 PM
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Joined Sep 2011
306 Posts
quick question
on my gimbal I am running HITEC HS-5245MG digital servos.
I am running the latest FW and 1.32 assistant.
In the Gimbal setting "OUTPUT FREQUENCY" should I set it to 200hz or 400hz?
thanks
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 10:31 PM
I never finish anyth
United States, TX, Houston
Joined Jan 2012
2,585 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kuau View Post
quick question
on my gimbal I am running HITEC HS-5245MG digital servos.
I am running the latest FW and 1.32 assistant.
In the Gimbal setting "OUTPUT FREQUENCY" should I set it to 200hz or 400hz?
thanks
Quick answer: try them both and see which works best.
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 10:35 PM
I never finish anyth
United States, TX, Houston
Joined Jan 2012
2,585 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabtyler View Post
so it seems like I need to get rid of the bullets and work on my gains. any other ideas?

I did some searching and I couldent find exactly what I was looking for so Ill as here can someone explain in detail how to adjust gains, I want to make sure I am not missing something. or point me in the direction of the thread with that info please

thanks
I wouldn't trust that battery or the connectors. Test that battery and check for a cold solder on all of the connectors. The way it had no power at the end seemed more like a power issue. Erratic tipping can be bullet connectors, power loss is bigger.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 07:01 AM
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Joined May 2012
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 09:59 AM
vip
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United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Jan 2012
311 Posts
wkm data link

Quote:
Originally Posted by zolpot View Post
Does it have a maximum flight speed with click & go or keyboard control ?

maybe we should start a new thread just for WKM data link.
Our subject will get lost in this thread, I am hooking mine up today..
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 02:22 PM
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United States, PA, Lancaster
Joined Jan 2012
111 Posts
One and all, advice is requested

I am flying as follows:

DROIDWORX ADX-3 HEAVY LIFT AIR FRAME a Y-6
DJI-WKM, V5.03beta
6- AVROTO 2814-11S
6-HobbyWing FlyFun Brushless ESC 40A
6-GRAUPNER E-Prop 11x5
2-Turnigy 5000mah, 4S
Photohigher AV130

All up weight, without camera, is 9lb.

Basic parameters are 230, 230, 220, 140, 60, 60

Here's the scenario, while in ATTI. As long as manuevers are limited to mild hovering inputs the unit is stable, and predictable. As soon as any stick commands are given that induce roll, pitch, or altitude changes an uncontrollable YAW results, typically to the left. Given enough altitude, and returning the sticks to neutral positions, the MR will settle down, and will respond at that point to rudder commands. When it first starts Yawing action, it does not respond to rudder stick commands. Initially, it will not respond at all to rudder inputs.
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