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Old Aug 01, 2011, 02:27 PM
IdealMethod
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United Kingdom, Scotland, Edinburgh
Joined Jun 2011
84 Posts
Build Log
IdealMethod's Orca Build

Ok- I know its already been done, but your Orca build logs helped me so much that I figured I would post mine to help others as well. Step one was to order plans, I got pats and a novi lobster boat, but opted to build pats as the logs on r/c groups showed me how to do it step by step. Thank you, I printed these orca logs out in color as reference images. You can see the images here -
http://www.youtube.com/user/idealmet.../6/E3zVNbUCOrQ
So having time to study other Orcas and the Original Orca I needed to make some small changes to the plans to ensure I did not end up with a flat bed orca. It had to be curved. I set about constructing the frame ( like a child! ) I dont really have space to build, so I just sat infront of the TV to do it. Needless to say the frame was squint! By 3-4mm! To fix this I was told to make a jig and put it in the bath over night- but thats a lot of time and money and I have no spare wood, So I came up with pulling it straight by hand and inserting a carbon rod through the frame, so when I let it go it should stay straight. It did.

Working with balsa and building a boat for the first time was tricky especially as I was changing to original plans/sizes a little. I knew I could add and subtract the balsa quite easily so I was not too worried if somthing was a little off. It could be corrected easily.
Checking R/C Orca build logs to see what I should be doing next, taking my time, thinking things through before gluing anything down.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 02:51 PM
IdealMethod
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United Kingdom, Scotland, Edinburgh
Joined Jun 2011
84 Posts
With the carbon rod fitted to straighten the boat planking could start. I dropped the hull once and broke some bits of balsa stripping but patched them up. What I would do for a work bench!
I enjoyed planking this as the hull took shape. It was not perfect planking, happy for my first go - I needed to do a little filling, but avoided sanding it smooth. That was tricky! Not sanding it..... I added a front....bit? and filled it in with builders pink grip. Then covered the hull in dope. I am thinking the hull is protected from bashes etc so I can focus on the deck build with out worrying about damaging or scraping the hull.

You can see the rod I put in to straighten the hull in the last pic. Next I installed a prop shaft, again I had to make ajustments to the space that was allocated for the propsharft. Pat recommended a thiner shaft but I could only get on that was about 5mm wide. I had to carve up my hull and make room for the bigger shaft, I had no long drill so I opened up the side of the main frame that runs the length of the boat and attacked it from the side, sand-wedged the frame back so it was just as strong and to cover the mess it left i glued down a piece of balsa. Put my name and dated it just for fun (scribing for the first time!)
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 03:35 PM
IdealMethod
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United Kingdom, Scotland, Edinburgh
Joined Jun 2011
84 Posts
Hull done prop-shaft in I needed to work on the cabin and front deck to find out where my access and radio gear would be. Once I had my space and access set I could install the rest of the radio gear. Again never done this before so your build logs helped me a lot. The rudder servo was installed as well as shelving for the radio gear. I want easy access to the radio gear in case of and future endeavors and incase they brake so gluing them in place was not a option. They all stay in place when I rock the boat in all directions. the battery will lay on the foam in the compartment.

I dont want to have to lift up my deck or servo cover I want to glue them in permanently. I dont mind leaving them in the orca. But if I dont have access to them what can go wrong. I will use the orca for and Hour or two max each year. Is gluing it all down and having a solid orca better or should I leave access to every bit of kit below deck????????????????????????? will the servo at the back fail on me, its a new 9.99 servo. I wont really ever need to lift the back decking out, theres nothing under it anyway other than the servo cable. I want to seal it up.....mmmm
I am happy with my little battery compartment.
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Old Aug 04, 2011, 12:53 AM
IdealMethod
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United Kingdom, Scotland, Edinburgh
Joined Jun 2011
84 Posts
Well today I made the cover for the battery hatch. Not happy with my pullpit railings either side of the barrels. I think I used to soft a wood. Hopefully it will tighten up a little once doped and painted. Side cabins I am happy with. filler will be used at the bottom of these to cabins to give the curved skirting. too small for me to do with wood. I did put the skirting on the front to cabins.

Going to stick a planked deck on permanently as the only thing it will cover up is a servo extension cable. Have made up pieces of wood for the main cabin, will scribe that wall and plank the deck. The cabin should be scribed to give the rounded edges on the wood as per the film.

Sometimes i sit back and think feck i have a long way to go, but after cutting wood for the cabin and roof I can see the end of stage one, its in sight. I think I just have the top cabin to go and the wood side of things is complete, well the initial building of the boat. The painting and adding details and interior are different stages! Stage one almost complete.
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Old Aug 04, 2011, 05:12 AM
I'm tired.....
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Conway,Myrtle Beach SC
Joined Jul 2009
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Looking Good!
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Old Aug 05, 2011, 10:54 AM
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Little Rock Regional, Arkansas, United States
Joined Sep 2002
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Yes, coming right along. The more you look the more you find to do.....


How do you think you might do the barrels ?

I have a master turned for me but have to add the cut in details (not easy). Then I was going to make a 2 piece latex mold and pour the 5. I wanted to get it wet this summer so cheated with 5 small soap bubble bottles found at Wal-mart. Not perfect but the right size and looked ok from shore.

Stringfly <>++++
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Old Aug 05, 2011, 06:12 PM
IdealMethod
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United Kingdom, Scotland, Edinburgh
Joined Jun 2011
84 Posts
Thanks jjac -
- stringfly, I thought you turned you drill into a laith and used foam?

I can get that blue foam stuff but have never cut/used it before. Then there asking a old carpenter to make em for me, but yes I would have to cut the details out, but I think your on the right path. Maybe I should make a clay mould, buy a kids moulding kit from toy r us or something, them mould them myself, no they would be clay....mmm. Not sure, would prefer little wooden ones, not clay. Unless I could pour in a different material into a mould, like hard rubber. I think a mould is prob best. You would have all the details and they would all be the same. Plus the extra ones would sell on ebay! LOL.

My money is on a mould.
Yes details, details. I even found that there are hatches on the front of the flat front cabin above the port holes! Those bloody details! Its not visible in most shots so I imagine it was not on both boats. Everyone puts the 2 raised cabins either side of the barrels but what about the ones in front of them! Clearly visible as Broady grasps the harpoon and makes his way up the mast at the end. And the various lights either side of the door...etc etc, ye the more you look in the rabbit hole the deeper you get! lol.

I am real interested in learning what the differences between the two orcas were. Anyone?

Waiting for the right wood to plank my deck. Going to stick it down to the hull permanently.
My mast will be done in two parts, Got the idea from the rotting orca, half the mast was attached to the boat the top half slid into the bottom half. Seemed to be anyway, this made sense to me. So on the deck will be a metal ring to screw the mast into. Having the mast slpit into 2 may help with installing electrical wires for the mast lights, the bottom part of the mast could have the battery ( small one ) inside, like a torch, you unscrew it batteries in the bottom and the lights in the top half. Still thinking.
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 02:30 AM
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Joined Nov 2007
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Best way to do the barrels imo,is sculpt one from clay and make a silicone mold from it.Then use Urethane for the 5 castings.The real barrels were actually plastic.
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 09:06 AM
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Little Rock Regional, Arkansas, United States
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Never noticed those front hatches. From all my other pictures though I think they were just on the sinking Orca, maybe for floatation access. They don't seem to be on the Orca 1, the action Orca I call it. But I could be wrong.

Stringfly <>+++++
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
I think they were just on the sinking Orca, maybe for floatation access. They don't seem to be on the Orca 1, the action Orca I call it. But I could be wrong.
Correct.The hatches mentioned were only on the Orca 2
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 06:23 PM
IdealMethod
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United Kingdom, Scotland, Edinburgh
Joined Jun 2011
84 Posts
I am gonna stick with Orca 1 details. Off to have a plank.
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 09:11 PM
NeverAgainVolunteerYourse lf
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Australia, QLD, Regents Park
Joined Mar 2007
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[IMG]http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...zBjdeM0OWdHeqt[/IMG]

What a Planker


Build looks good, My Wife saw your photo and said she would leave me too if I left our lounge in that state

Cheers
Nick
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 11:53 PM
IdealMethod
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United Kingdom, Scotland, Edinburgh
Joined Jun 2011
84 Posts
Nick-lol

Well I am all planked out. Time for bed. Let the glue dry. That engine bit was salvaged from an old build my dad did in the 80s. Have made the hatch cover as well. The other hatch I will highlight with mini piano hinges as per movie ( I think!) Will have to do research on Quints chair mount. Only the sides are glued to the boat, the middle section is still removable, not sure if I will keep it that way, great access but I dont need it, the floor would also be tighter if it was glued down. have to think before putting the cabin door side on. Having a removable deck may be a pain when it comes to the mast.....mmm options.

I am going to scribe the cabin wall, I can get the sanded edges to each plank effect using a toothpick ( little round wooden one.) I think the width of the wood is about the same as the deck. 4mm ish.
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Old Aug 07, 2011, 04:25 AM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
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USA, CA, San Francisco
Joined Apr 2007
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Ok, I'm in and watchin' closely..

This thread added to WOODIES: Wooden Pleasure Craft Build Logs listing.

Path: RCGroups -> Boats -> Scale Boats ->"WOODIES..."

Lookin' forward to following along
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Old Aug 08, 2011, 12:14 PM
IdealMethod
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United Kingdom, Scotland, Edinburgh
Joined Jun 2011
84 Posts
I cannot paint my hull untill the top panels are put on ( pullpit sits on these) but i cannot put them on untill after I have drilled port holes in the front cabin. I cannot do this untill my portholes arrive.....so I am off to order portholes! Same with the back cabin. I need to find the circular window piece. It also has to be around 25 -30 mm wide larger than the portholes. Once cut then I will scribe and then attach to the cabin frame.

So all I can work on tonigh is the pullpit plank and the upper cabin. Going to follow stringflys methods and hope my two pieces look similar to his!

Have been reserching sound units and smoke units, found a great generaton that does different engines with varying cylinder sounds (2,4,6,8) 30!!!! going to buy that and install it. The lights i am probably going to do from scratch as i can get exactly what I want that way.

The pain in the ass aspect if this is having to be able to take off the deck and various cabins, I hate the hairline gap it leaves, will prob cut the deck so it ends at the cabin, and the door is gonna be attached with magnets i think. I have ordered the magnets online. 10mm wide 5mm thick. I think i need this for the roof so it does not come off too easily.

So its a bit of a waiting game now.
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