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Old Jan 07, 2013, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by pugsam View Post
LOL

I'd bet, though, that with a little Gorilla Glue (white) you'll be back in action soon, as good as new.

yeah might be worth a shot. never say never n all that! was considering strategically placed blobs of hot glue (all i have to hand) but i guess that might make it a bit heavy.
the places it has broken will make it very tricky to fix though. might be a case of buy a new airframe and perform a little surgery
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 02:05 PM
Have fun
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Joined May 2007
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Buy gorilla glue, it's a high performance 3d plane so deserves high performance glue. When a Stryker crashes we all think it needs a new airframe but when we end up repairing it it flies fine!
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by airpower View Post
No, 4040 does have shorter flight time, and the 180 is not enough, I say you cut out some foam to push your nt 300s back to get the cg right.
ok, thanks. i will give it shot if i manage to get her ship shape again.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmurder1975 View Post
that could be the reason then. im running 180 nano tech and i have a couple of 300 nano as well,dont really notice much of a difference really. might go back to the stock prop as i dont seem to be getting quite as long duration with my current configuration. might just be my imagination though.
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Originally Posted by airpower View Post
No, 4040 does have shorter flight time, and the 180 is not enough, I say you cut out some foam to push your nt 300s back to get the cg right.
Yes, the larger Nanos should have enough grunt if they've been well cared for. If you've ever over-discharged them, even once can do it, they may not be able to deliver the amps anymore. This is true of any brand, BTW. Proper car and feeding of LiPos is very important to get the most performance from them.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 06:52 AM
Way to many airplanes!
Canada, QC
Joined Oct 2009
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I fly almost exclusively 180mah NanoTech in my UM Stryker, so I suspect it's more a case of abused batteries as well. As Erkq said, you only need to overdischarge them once or twice , and sure enough, you won't get as much power out of them as usual.

The 4X4 on the Stryker motor (25Kv) draw about the same as the 5X3 on a 21KV motor (found in many UM) and people are happy with that setup.

And the advantage to use a light battery is the fact that you can slow down the Stryker to a crawl (high alpha) and I believe the Boomerangs are easier and floatier. Though I guess if you only want a speed rocket, then, the 180mah is not enough.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 10:39 AM
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I use the 240mah Nanotechs. They're lighter and smaller than the stock battery, but the performance is much better. Prop speed is noticably higher, even higher than the 300mah 35c Lectron I have.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 08:16 PM
I've reached my critical AoA
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United States, VA, Winchester
Joined Dec 2005
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Question about the UM Stryker and the DX8. I notice with the downloaded program, if the flap switch is moved from the middle position, the rudders go full right or full left. Is there a way to just have the flap switch do nothing if accidentally hit? On the big Stryker, I have speed brakes, but I don't think that is possible with the UM Stryker.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by G-Man View Post
Question about the UM Stryker and the DX8. I notice with the downloaded program, if the flap switch is moved from the middle position, the rudders go full right or full left. Is there a way to just have the flap switch do nothing if accidentally hit? On the big Stryker, I have speed brakes, but I don't think that is possible with the UM Stryker.
Speed brakes are possible with the UM Stryker! I'm cooking dinner, so I don't have time to find it, but it's been discussed in this thread many times.
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 08:38 PM
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Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Joined Sep 2006
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Guess you could always select Inhibit for your Flap Switch? Or set her up like her big sister and remove the Y-harness so you can have Airbrakes for the 180?
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:19 PM
I've reached my critical AoA
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United States, VA, Winchester
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Originally Posted by rcoconut View Post
Guess you could always select Inhibit for your Flap Switch? Or set her up like her big sister and remove the Y-harness so you can have Airbrakes for the 180?
Is there another channel on the Rx for the BNF to plug the servo into?
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Old Jan 09, 2013, 09:40 PM
Twisted Do Nut!
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Fort Worth
Joined Dec 2010
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You'll have to open it up and remove the y harness and plug left rudder servo into AUX1 and the right rudder servo into RUDDER. Should work after that.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 12:54 PM
Aut Viam Inveniam Aut Faciam
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United States, CO, Colorado Springs
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anyone here try different props for torque instead of speed? Looking to get a different prop for my wing but I dont want to fry the board.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 01:16 PM
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anyone here try different props for torque instead of speed? Looking to get a different prop for my wing but I dont want to fry the board.
Torque... meaning vertical performance? I find vertical performance with the 4040 and a good battery pack to be phenomenal... meaning drill-bit type rolls on the upline forever. Plus you get speed. Best of both worlds. But don't expect this performance out of E-flight packs.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 01:31 PM
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Not so much vertical performance as power at lower speeds. torques was the first thing to come to mind. The 4040 im using is good for my stryker but I have a slightly larger wing that the 4040 works on but doesent have the physical power to get vertical. Im just not sure what will work or will kill this board. I know im "that guy" that needs something other than what every one else wants
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 01:45 PM
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What batteries? 3000kv and 4040 is very high current, at least Hyperion good,you'll probably see improvements up to 35c, like with mini aviation 300.
If you use an ar6400 1s you can up the esc and motor.
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