thank u gerry. yah i was lazy but i didnt know how far and i have been reading this forum for a couple week and didnt c it.

oh i saw that one already... it was a little confusing. but yah. the reenforcment idea was cool. but i think that packing or duct tape for the front nose would work just the same(as i have already done this and slammed it into the ground full throttle with no damage). another thing, make sure after nose damage that the capsule is secure. both me and my cousin experienced it flying off in flight. The plane goes out of control and u could lose the capsule cause its hard to look at both.... just some advice.

Originally Posted by erkq

The guy who initiated the discussion about the 3S 2200 and a 450 size out runner was in the wrong thread. This stryker weighs a little over two ounces! The consensus is, 240mAh Hyperions, a 4040 prop and "the mix" if you have a DX6i. That combo gives you a 2 ounce 60mph piece of foam that rolls like a drill and does what some call 50g turns. If you do an outside 50g turn, the battery comes right out.

I just picked one up. Any consensus on flight duration and throttle management if stock?

Thanks,
Charles

Originally Posted by erkq

I'm surprised you found it. I never did find mine.

6 miles away! Where do you fly? I've never seen anyone else with a UM Stryker around. I fly at Area 51.

I was flying at the soccer fields on west 3rd. There was a big stryker there on Saturday morning. Sometimes I fly area 51 at first light on weekdays, but usually stuff with wheels.

Originally Posted by ccpdx

I just picked one up. Any consensus on flight duration and throttle management if stock?

Thanks,
Charles

I set my timer for 6 min. when stock. The stock Stryker batts seem to be better than the stock batts for the Beast and Sbach.

Originally Posted by ccpdx

I just picked one up. Any consensus on flight duration and throttle management if stock?

Thanks,
Charles

I have not done much timing of flights on mine, and I seldom fly wide open, but do know that I get long duration flights. Have timer set for 6 minutes, but regularly go an extra 3 or 4 and never have a battery down to 3.7v per cell. Usually put from 100-120ma back in the battery when I charge.

Thanks guys. Duration sounds decent. I'm hoping to spend more time at the top of the throttle. Throttle management can be a drag sometimes...

... after crashing mine nose first, I glued the little bird back together with Gorilla glue clear and it came out dang near as good as new with the exception of a slight curve/bend in the nose.
What I am planning is to steam it and gently bend it straight. Any other suggestions or ideas or caveats about doing the steam thing??

Originally Posted by kenstogie

... after crashing mine nose first, I glued the little bird back together with Gorilla glue clear and it came out dang near as good as new with the exception of a slight curve/bend in the nose.
What I am planning is to steam it and gently bend it straight. Any other suggestions or ideas or caveats about doing the steam thing??

Steam or even hot (tap) water should do the trick.

One more question.....


I want to use other 2s batteries with this bird not the stock one.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=20652




Can I just solder up a balance plug to the Micro Stryker then use the balance port on the non stock battery???
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9735



Many thanks for your expertise.

Hey, fellow Stryker addicts!!
I have logged 69 flights on my "full sized" Stryker and I cannot get enough of that plane. I recently swapped out the ESC for a 60A unit and I'm running it on 4s packs...and it's even more fun!!

After checking a Stryker 180 out at flying field at the New Years's day "Frozen Finger" event, I decided that my life would be incomplete until I owned a UM version too so I now have a 180 on the way from Hobby-Lobby (free shipping...nice to support a good, if struggling vendor) and I am beyond excited.

First, let me say that I have read virtually this entire thread. Technically, I am on page 172... lots and lots of great info here... but I wanted to get a few questions out before I forget to ask them...and please forgive me if these have been covered before. This was a lot of information to absorb!

1.) While RCBabbel's prices are understandable, I couldn't stomach $20 for a tiny 2s pack...so I ordered up some 1s 240mah Hyperion packs from AlleRC.com (with the standard Ultra Micro style connector) for $5 each...which I plan to run in series with the Y-connector that Horizon sells. This worked very well in my UMX Beast...but how much power do you suppose I'm losing with the connectors? It works out to be 1/2 the price.

1.5) I also ordered up a bevy of GWS 4040 to go with the 240mah cells (orange but they'll get the sharpy treatment )... Will performance with the stock battery be WORSE if I don't switch back to the stock prop? Could the extra load damage the stock battery?

2.) I will be flying mine on my (old version) DX7. Are there any special instructions or tips needed with this radio?

Thanks for any information or advice at all on those questions.

Awesome and entertaining thread, guys. I plan on modding mine (for more speed) gradually over the coming months and I'll share whatever I learn...so you haven't heard the last from me.

-Mike

Originally Posted by MRGTX

which I plan to run in series with the Y-connector that Horizon sells.

I'll just say, if you really needed to go the Y connector route, you should have ordered rc-connector's version. Smaller, lighter, less resistance. HH makes some good things, but batteries and adapter cables aren't it.

Originally Posted by erkq

I'll just say, if you really needed to go the Y connector route, you should have ordered rc-connector's version. Smaller, lighter, less resistance. HH makes some good things, but batteries and adapter cables aren't it.

Thanks for the tip.

Has anyone measured the connectors and compared the resistance? So far I have no reason to think there is anything particularly bad about the HH one...and it weighs virtually nothiong I don't see how the RC-Connectors one could be lighter.

If the RC Connectors version is much better, I'm not opposed to buying one from them as well though.

I bought the Horizon one last year when I bought the original Beast...so I already had it. It was $4, I think...and on the shelf at the LHS. I had tons of 1s 170mah batteries around and it was massively better for the Beast than the stock 120mah 2s, even with the Horizon series connector.


EDIT:
I found it on their page:
http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...2t1424adgf13a0

Here is the official Eflite one...I thought I paid less than $6...but it was worth it regardless
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ology-EFLU4850

Originally Posted by MRGTX

Thanks for the tip.

Has anyone measured the connectors and compared the resistance?

Yes. One of the regular, great contributors... Turboparker, Realgambler or RCBabbel. Sorry, guys... sometimes I can't tell you apart!

Originally Posted by erkq

Yes. One of the regular, great contributors... Turboparker, Realgambler or RCBabbel. Sorry, guys... sometimes I can't tell you apart!

It might be easier if you think of them as Moe, Larry and Curly, you even got them in the right order.
TODD