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Old Apr 19, 2012, 06:37 AM
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LI NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EXTREME FLIGHT View Post
I still fly the 65mg in most of my 48" EXPs and am not limited in any way by them.
I'm sure you upgraded to the new ESC which has 6V. For me it was cheaper(because I have to pay for my equipment) to just upgrade the servo.

You guys upgraded the Airboss BEC after I had already bought the package.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Manta1 View Post
same here.
85mg in the back tho on me msx.
Exactly, the HS-65 Elevator servo was changed to the hs-85.
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 02:18 PM
Model Aerobatic Team Holíč
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Slovakia
Joined Feb 2009
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Finally I decided to setup the AXI 4120/18 vs. 16x8 "APC 5S 2650mAh as I wrote. We'll see how it will be a 3D ... Then I'll experience here.
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 07:53 PM
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Is there a way to check if the ESC is defected, other than transmiter/receiver operation ?
I had a fairly soft crash, nothing crazy, but no esc or motor seem to work... and I want to make sure if I need to order and what...
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Old Apr 19, 2012, 08:12 PM
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How do the washers go for the control rods?

Dumb question, but how do the washers go for the control rods?

Bolt, washer, swivel on control arm, control horn, washer, nut?

or

Bolt, washer, swivel on control arm, washer, control horn, nut?

I am guessing the first. Just trying to figure out the best way so the nut doesn't walk off over several flights.
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 10:57 AM
AirSurfer
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If I use a 100Amp ESC (http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e36-proton-100a-opto.html)
- what should I expect to see changing, regarding things like flight characteristics or battery flight time ?
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N6145k View Post
Dumb question, but how do the washers go for the control rods?

Bolt, washer, swivel on control arm, control horn, washer, nut?

or

Bolt, washer, swivel on control arm, washer, control horn, nut?

I am guessing the first. Just trying to figure out the best way so the nut doesn't walk off over several flights.
I'm too lazy too go look at mine but the best thing is to put the washers on the softest parts. Also, look at the manual.
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBone08 View Post
If I use a 100Amp ESC (http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e36-proton-100a-opto.html)
- what should I expect to see changing, regarding things like flight characteristics or battery flight time ?
The specifications look good, as far as ESC specifications go. However, one thing I noticed about all ESC makers is they give marketing specifications, not engineering specifications.

For example, they specify the max current and max voltage, but don't specify the on resistance of the FETs they're using, or its maximum switching frequency.

The max current of an ESC can be increased two ways--first by using better FETs (better in this case means faster switching and lower on resistance). The second is by reducing the thermal resistance, i.e., by using better heat sinking.

A faster switching FET will transition on to off and off to on faster than a slower switching FET. Even if you don't operate the FETs at their maximum frequencies, faster FETs are better. Transitioning on to off faster reduces the amount of power that is wasted as heat, because in a switching power FET, most of the heat builds up during that short duration switching time, and not during full ON or full OFF condition.

For most power FETs, if they were always on or always off, they would run cooler. This is why, for an evenly matched motor and ESC, propped to run at the limits of the ESC and motor specifications, the motor will get hotter WOT, but the ESC will get hotter if you're below WOT. In this below WOT case, the FETs are being switched more frequently, as the motor power is reduced by modulating the FETs, and it is during the switching that the FETs get warmer.

A better heat sink on the ESC will transfer heat built up to the air faster, and mask the use of FETs with inferior specifications.

So, if an ESC manufacturer is using cheap FETs, but a good heat sink, the max current could be as good as an ESC that uses very good FETs, and a smaller heat sink.

If the max current marketing specifications vendors put out are to be trusted (and this *if*), I would chose an ESC that is lighter as it probably indicates they used better FETs. I would prefer this second type of ESC, because less energy would be converted to heat in the ESC.

HOWEVER, on a new plane that I valued highly, I would *not* use an ESC I haven't used before, unless several others are reporting sucess on the same plane with the same motor.

Disclaimer: much of the above is based on theory. Actual observations of those in the hobby may differ, and I would be interested in reading those if they do differ.
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlloyd1995 View Post
I'm too lazy too go look at mine but the best thing is to put the washers on the softest parts. Also, look at the manual.
Thanks.

The pdf manual has a photograph, and I zoomed in as far as I could, but the resolution didn't allow me to see this much detail.

I ended up doing my first listed option. That being said, the plastic that encases the brass swivels is probably softer than the control horn or servo arm.

I'll check after every flight for the first half dozen flights and see if I detect any nuts walking off the bolts.
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 11:41 AM
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N6145k,
thanks for the detailed answer. much appreciated !
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 11:47 AM
TEAM EXTREME FLIGHT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N6145k View Post
I am guessing the first. Just trying to figure out the best way so the nut doesn't walk off over several flights.
I don't remember, but I believe the the 60" Extra came with aircraft nuts for the ball links. If not, I get those from Micro fastners, which has had an add for decades in Model Aviation.

I used those on all my planes with slightly longer Dubro 12mm X 2 allen bolts, and with a second regular hex nut on the outside and with the two nuts turned into each other. Then I put a drop of thick Ca on the exposed threads. That ain't never coming apart.
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 12:41 PM
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TBone, no problem, you're welcome. I also updated what I wrote, because, on this particular plane, I would not switch to using a brand new less expensive ESC unless I had used it in less valued planes previously, or others have already used the ESC in question. But that is a personal risk tolerance question that will vary from individual to individual.
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N6145k View Post
Thanks.

The pdf manual has a photograph, and I zoomed in as far as I could, but the resolution didn't allow me to see this much detail.

I ended up doing my first listed option. That being said, the plastic that encases the brass swivels is probably softer than the control horn or servo arm.

I'll check after every flight for the first half dozen flights and see if I detect any nuts walking off the bolts.
No problem. I just looked at mine. I have washers on both sides of the servo arm but not on the ball. Actually, on my elevator and rudder linkages I also have a washer on the ball but if you only have two, I'd put them on the arm.
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 02:58 PM
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I also just noticed that on mine, if I put the rod over the aileron servo arm (on the side of the servo arm opposite of the servo), it binds when pulling the control surface toward the servo.

I could get a full throw if I put the rod under the servo arm.

Any thoughts on this?
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 03:16 PM
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United States, GA, Acworth
Joined Mar 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N6145k View Post
I also just noticed that on mine, if I put the rod over the aileron servo arm (on the side of the servo arm opposite of the servo), it binds when pulling the control surface toward the servo.

I could get a full throw if I put the rod under the servo arm.

Any thoughts on this?
I noticed that as well but I checked it and was getting 35 degrees of throw before it started to bind so I didn't worry about it
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 04:07 PM
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Joined Apr 2008
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I've an opportunity to purchase either a Scorpion Motor or a Hacker Motor for the 60" Extra at a substantial discount. The recommended motor is the Torque 4016/500. What is/are comparable Scorpion/Hacker motor(s) to the Torque. Thanks.
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