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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Ricomon's Avatar
USA, SC, Charleston
Joined Oct 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supermoth View Post
Are you using the stock Lipo?
Yes, I only have the one that came with the plane. I was going to get a couple of Zippy 350 packs, but flight time is pretty good on the stock 250 pack. I'm not sure that I want the extra weight if the larger pack. Does it cause a noticeable increase in glide ratio or stall speed?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GLFaria View Post
what the heck does "V'd" mean?
I think that's a reference to pulling so many Gs that the wing flexes into a V shape. Back in the balsa days, they just folded and crashed. These modern materials are absolutely fantastic in that respect.

Rick
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:37 PM
Klassische Segelflugzeuge
studioRS's Avatar
Northern Vermont
Joined Jul 2010
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Gotta love foam! Ok, well not a V, but more like a U.

Radian 2m on a winch line - oops!

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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:44 PM
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Ouch! That poor, poor wing!

Rick
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Joined May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricomon View Post
Yes, I only have the one that came with the plane. I was going to get a couple of Zippy 350 packs, but flight time is pretty good on the stock 250 pack. I'm not sure that I want the extra weight if the larger pack. Does it cause a noticeable increase in glide ratio or stall speed?
I did try to measure the CG and I think that it does not change that much with the Zippy's.The endurance its awesome.Last flight was almost 45 minutes.
Cheers.
S.M
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 07:45 AM
Once you taste flight...
skydvejam's Avatar
United States, VA, Fort Belvoir
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GLFaria View Post
V'd?
If that means what I think (putting some dihedral on them), why was that (I mean, specifically on this plane)? How did you do it?

If not, what the heck does "V'd" mean?

G.
Look at the picture of the radian now think of the skyclimber after a 750-1000 foot dive, full pull back going much faster than it was meant to, and the tips about 4-4.5 inches, aprox 12-15 cm for our metric friends.
Embedded CF in the wings and fixed that issue.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by skydvejam View Post
Look at the picture of the radian now think of the skyclimber after a 750-1000 foot dive, full pull back going much faster than it was meant to, and the tips about 4-4.5 inches, aprox 12-15 cm for our metric friends.
Embedded CF in the wings and fixed that issue.
I am a "metric friend" (even though out of necessity I am very, very familiar with the the British units systems - that is, if you can call them "systems"...) and I don't want to even think about giving that treatment to a wing! But, what do I know, I am just a lousy beginner...

G.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 10:14 AM
Klassische Segelflugzeuge
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Northern Vermont
Joined Jul 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skydvejam View Post
Look at the picture of the radian now think of the skyclimber after a 750-1000 foot dive, full pull back going much faster than it was meant to, and the tips about 4-4.5 inches, aprox 12-15 cm for our metric friends.
Embedded CF in the wings and fixed that issue.
The part that gets me the most is how powerful the two little magnet really are even after installing carbon fibre in the wings. The forces that are inducing that much stress to flex a foam wing and the little magnets still hold.

Cheers, Thompson
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 07:40 AM
Once you taste flight...
skydvejam's Avatar
United States, VA, Fort Belvoir
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studioRS View Post
The part that gets me the most is how powerful the two little magnet really are even after installing carbon fibre in the wings. The forces that are inducing that much stress to flex a foam wing and the little magnets still hold.

Cheers, Thompson
I agree with that, and how tough those little wings are, it has a few little dents in it, but it has lasted 3 fuses, and two of them have had very violent endings. I have had one issue with the magnets not holding, but it popped out of the foam, so it did not hold to the foam that well. After using the smallest amount of 5 minute epoxy after light sanding and cleaning with alcohol I have not had that issue again.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by GLFaria View Post
Thanks.

I have even considered rebuilding the whole front from ply and balsa, starting with a "firewall" just back of the battery compartment, but have some (well, a lot of...) misgivings, as I have never done anything of the sort.

Well, I'll see (and let you know when I do...)
Hi.
How is your project coming alone.?
I did manage to fix a couple of bodies with boiling water.It did work great and both birds are ready to fly again.
Cheers.
S.M
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by supermoth View Post
Hi.
How is your project coming alone.?
I did manage to fix a couple of bodies with boiling water.It did work great and both birds are ready to fly again.
Cheers.
S.M
Well, it's taking some time, things to repair at home are really getting ahead of me (only today I had to completely disassemble and repair the vacuum, they no longer make these things to last; yesterday it was a gas heater, tomorrow it will be the TV signal feed circuit to my daughter's room, plus a small table that somehow has become unglued when a tray full of food was "sitting" on it). I have my hands full with "serious" things, fun will have to wait.

Anyway, as I think I should take all the electronics out before "boiling" the thing (I don't like the idea of having a lot of hot water vapor around these things), I decided to order a new fuse from HK, so I have something to fall back on if things don't work out as expected and I end with a sausage-shaped fuse.

As this will be my first, some info would be welcome.
I guess the rudder and elevator are glued on the fuse. How do you unglue them so they may be used anew?
How are the electronics, on the original plane, assembled on the fuse, and how does one take them off?
(I would try prying them out, but as things are it may happen the same as with the vacuum - when all the catches were undone, things started to fall out of their own, first things the motor and the cable winding spring, as should be expected according to Murphy's law...And the electronics on this plane being tiny delicate things, nothing like a 3Hp motor... )
Best way to assemble the electronics on a new fuse - so they stay put but so I can get them out again if the need arises?

Any special advice?

Thanks

G.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 05:28 PM
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Reassessment:
I didn't realise how high the shipping rates could be - they would triple the cost of a simple order like just a Sky Surfer replacement fuse and a prop. No way.

This will have to wait until I find I really need to order some other products or parts.

So - after all, should I take the electronics out before "boiling" the front half of the thing, or how do I get to do it?

Thanks for any help

G.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by GLFaria View Post
Reassessment:
I didn't realise how high the shipping rates could be - they would triple the cost of a simple order like just a Sky Surfer replacement fuse and a prop. No way.

This will have to wait until I find I really need to order some other products or parts.

So - after all, should I take the electronics out before "boiling" the front half of the thing, or how do I get to do it?

Thanks for any help

G.
Hi.Hk sometimes gets expensive.But don't worry.
Your S.Surfer body will be back in one piece to its original condition.And you know what,half the job has been performed by yourself before..(Remember when you did replace the engine?).
Steps:
1- Just extract the engine as you did before.
2- Remove the servo arms.This is achieved by pulling the servo arms gently.They come off without problems.
3- Remove the electronics board.The board is attached to the fuse by 2 white plastic pins.You will see them without a problem.Lift the board gently and it will pop out.
4- Leave the servo arms as they are in the fuse.It is not worth it to remove them and will make things easier later on.

Now to the boiling water.
Take a recipient with boiling water and immerse the fuse in it for 10 to 15 sec's.The foam will expand to its original position.If you see that more time is needed repeat the soaking step as many times as you need in small increments.Now,remember the foam is made of tiny balls,that means once those balls are expanded the fuse's skin won't get smooth.You can use a spoon or even a finger in order to smoothen it.

Now you have to glue the cracks you had during your crash.Mine was close to the firewall,so I did inserted 2 tiny round pieces of CF to reinforce the fuse and glue it with Elapor CA.Then I did apply a thin coat of paper tissue around the crack to strengthen the repaired area and added a drop of CA around it.The fuse now is rock solid again.

One last thing I forgot.I did not remove the plastic firewall that holds the engine.If you are gentle with the inmmersion is not worth it to remove it.

I have my bird ready to be remaiden tomorrow I will report.I hope you will be soon back in the air.

Cheers S.M
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Thanks a lot

I will get to it as soon as my workbench gets a little clearing, and let you know how it went.

G.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 03:28 PM
Once you taste flight...
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United States, VA, Fort Belvoir
Joined Dec 2011
2,767 Posts
I prefer either just was boiling water, or if you have a tea kettle, using the steam that comes out of it. If you want to resmooth the bumpy stuff while it is hot, use a spoon out of the freezer to smooth them down some.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 08:53 AM
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Joined May 2012
130 Posts
Remaiden complete.!!!.She flies great again.Beautiful day at the Beach today.

Next project is to reinforce the hinge joints in the elevator.At the moment they are fixed with packing tape.Any thoughts will be welcome.
I think it is an important fix due to the two crashes we had a few days ago when we lost control and crashed.
Thanks.
SM.
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