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Old Nov 15, 2011, 01:35 PM
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Dennis-
Great photo!
We know what OSD you use, but can you give some photos/specs on the rest of your platform?
-Thanks
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 01:42 PM
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Dennis-
Great photo!
We know what OSD you use, but can you give some photos/specs on the rest of your platform?
-Thanks
Yea, what camera, transmitter and ground station.
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CheckSum View Post
Dennis-
Great photo!
We know what OSD you use, but can you give some photos/specs on the rest of your platform?
-Thanks
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Originally Posted by rimshotcopter View Post
Yea, what camera, transmitter and ground station.
Thanks
A couple of pictures from GoPro can be seen here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2348

The flight was done with:
- Maxi Swift
- 2 x 3S 2200 mAh
- 500 mw lawmate, 2.4 ghz
- 8 dBi CP patch (on lawmate receiver)
- RCV922 camera

I had pretty good signal while staying within the beam, but a couple of times I flew a few hundred meters behind my patch (with bad LOS), resulting in a pretty bad video signal
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 03:43 PM
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Thanks
A couple of pictures from GoPro can be seen here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2348

Magnificent and beautiful! I can only dream because I live in a very Crowded airspace.
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 02:35 PM
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Finally I connected all together.

When I connect GPS without fix I get strange speed displayed. Is it bug?
I also get correct time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_t2fEJUZbk8

Kristaps
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kristaps_r View Post
Finally I connected all together.

When I connect GPS without fix I get strange speed displayed. Is it bug?
I also get correct time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_t2fEJUZbk8

Kristaps
Good to see you finally made it this far

The problem you see with speed, is most likely caused by a "bad gps string" on start-up. When no satellites are found, you shouldn't be able to get any speed-reading. Try to test it with a GPS-signal, that should fix your problem
As soon as it gets a speed-reading, the speed will be updated with a correct value.

Everything is reset when home-position is set, so it will not have any influence on your flight-stats.
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 04:39 PM
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Well works for the speed 4800
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 04:41 PM
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Well works for the speed 4800
I have two GPS that are working at 4800 baud.

Just set the following:

Code:
// Baud-rate for GPS
#define baud 4800
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 05:08 PM
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P.S. Disclaimer: I have no ideas how well these two GPS units I have will work in flight, but on the ground, they do work. (somewhat) LOL
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 05:10 PM
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Yes, 4800 baud should work fine, but I don't think you will be able to run 5 hz. 4800 baud is too slow
You can just test on a GPS simulator if needed
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 08:13 PM
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parts arrived! will build board tomorrow or whenever I get some time!
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Dennis Frie View Post
RSSI or "lost packet indicator" (low pass filtered) is read the same way - so you can just use RSSI input
Dennis, have many projects going atm but will get back to this one - very impressed w/ all you have done, just out of curiosity, will the rssi work from this Fasst FrSky RX in PPM/RSSI Mode?

thx,
bob
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Old Nov 19, 2011, 03:54 PM
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can I use the the LM1881M chip?
I accidentally bought it instead the normal LM1881.
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Old Nov 19, 2011, 04:35 PM
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in regards to you shrinking it down:
can you use resonator instead of crystal to get rid of 2 caps? what size are you caps/resistors? go smd for everything 0402 or 0603
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Old Nov 19, 2011, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by FPVdude View Post
can I use the the LM1881M chip?
I accidentally bought it instead the normal LM1881.
According to the spec sheet, the M version is a surface-mount package. The N version is a DIP package.

Manufacturer's spec sheet (on nootropicdesign.com)
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Old Nov 20, 2011, 04:31 AM
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can I use the the LM1881M chip?
I accidentally bought it instead the normal LM1881.
You could try soldering wire wrap wires onto the leads... it'll make a nice and compact package for you.
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Old Nov 20, 2011, 09:22 AM
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no, I want it to be a surface mount chip. I thought it might have some internal change compared to the normal LM1881.
I was unsure of the M version because I cannot get it to work on a breadboard with a little breakout board I made.
If I use the LM1881, I only have to set the arduino /simple osd thing to 1 ?
is that the only thing I have to do in the code?
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Old Nov 20, 2011, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by bob4432 View Post
Dennis, have many projects going atm but will get back to this one - very impressed w/ all you have done, just out of curiosity, will the rssi work from this Fasst FrSky RX in PPM/RSSI Mode?

thx,
bob
That should work just fine, just add a little lowpass filter to get a stable DC-reading

Quote:
Originally Posted by bob4432 View Post
in regards to you shrinking it down:
can you use resonator instead of crystal to get rid of 2 caps? what size are you caps/resistors? go smd for everything 0402 or 0603
Yes you can just use a crystal. Shouldn't make any difference if you use resonator with caps or just crystal.
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Old Nov 20, 2011, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by FPVdude View Post
no, I want it to be a surface mount chip. I thought it might have some internal change compared to the normal LM1881.
I was unsure of the M version because I cannot get it to work on a breadboard with a little breakout board I made.
If I use the LM1881, I only have to set the arduino /simple osd thing to 1 ?
is that the only thing I have to do in the code?
If you set Arduino / simpleOSD (LM1881) to 1, you should at least get some text on the screen.

You probably have to change input-pins etc. to match your current-sensor input etc. (they are configured for SimpleOSD) - but you can always do that later.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 07:41 AM
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I've taken the next step and attached a GPS (Flytron 10Hz) to my breadboard and although the OSD picks up the time from the GPS (I can see this written on the OSD) it never gets a lock no matter how long I leave it.

Is there some way to see what the NMEA strings that are coming from the GPS?

I've tried to find it myself by looking for
Code:
Serial.Read();
but it appears absent and being a complete arduino novice, I don't know where to look in the code.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 08:25 AM
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Hi,

i have created a Layout without Arduino, but not tested yet. The files are attached.
If a arduino Bootloader is Flashed on the Atmega328, you can use the Arduino Pro mini FTDI.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Nice layout! only one critique- could you make the isolation for the ground plane a bit larger? It seems really close to all the other pads.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 12:47 PM
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i have changed the isolate value from 0 to 0.2. More is not possible without GND bridges
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SouthPawPaul View Post
I've taken the next step and attached a GPS (Flytron 10Hz) to my breadboard and although the OSD picks up the time from the GPS (I can see this written on the OSD) it never gets a lock no matter how long I leave it.

Is there some way to see what the NMEA strings that are coming from the GPS?

I've tried to find it myself by looking for
Code:
Serial.Read();
but it appears absent and being a complete arduino novice, I don't know where to look in the code.
The GPS dont need GPS-fix to show the time.
The time is mainly shown to check GPS update-rate, and check that some correct data is received (= GPS should be connected right).

If you use the GPS from flytron with breakout-board, there should be a LED indicating GPS-fix. Is it blinking or constantly on?

The serial.read and print functions is interrupt-driven, so they can't really be used. You can use them for debugging - but your OSD-text will most likely flicker quite a bit.

Regarding the NMEA-strings, I will just quote myself from a PM I sent a while ago. You have to use a FTDI-converter, or make a little trick with the controller (if you use Arduino with USB connection)

Do you use an Arduino with USB connection? Or do you use a seperat FTDI converter?

If you use a seperate FTDI convert to program the Arduino:
You just power the GPS from the FTDI and connect the GPS directly - just the same way that you connected the Arduino board. Open Arduino Serial monitor and you should see the data.

If you use an Arduino with USB-connection:
Normally you can't read Serial data from a GPS etc. as both the controller and the computer is connected to the line. But you can make a little trick to overcome this. If you upload this little code (see below) you should be able to more or less "turn off" the microcontrollers serial output and allow Serial data from GPS to pass through.

So here is what you do:
- Upload the code
- Connect the GPS TX to Arduino TX (No, not a writing error, you really connect TX to TX.
-Open Arduino Serial monitor, and you should now be able to see the gps-strings. This is from my GPS right now. It have no fix, so pretty much empty strings.

$GPGGA,001057.035,,,,,0,0,,,M,,M,,*4D
$GPGSA,A,1,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,*1E
$GPRMC,001057.035,V,,,,,0.00,0.00,060180,,,N*47
$GPVTG,0.00,T,,M,0.00,N,0.00,K,N*32

This is the only piece of code you need (if you have a Arduino duemilanove board or something like that you can also remove the chip instead)

void setup() {
DDRD = 0b00000000;
DDRB = 0b00000000;
DDRC = 0b00000000;
}

void loop() {

}

You already have the OSD with the GPS connected. Just upload the code above as you have uploaded all other software versions, connect the GPS and open serial monitor to see the strings.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 01:54 PM
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Hi,

i have created a Layout without Arduino, but not tested yet. The files are attached.
If a arduino Bootloader is Flashed on the Atmega328, you can use the Arduino Pro mini FTDI.
Nice work

Just noticed one thing. Your voltage-divider is 1:11? Is that on purpose? That's about max 55 volts, equals something like 13S li-po.
If you use that high voltage I recommend to use at least 20K resistor (preferably higher).
With 50 volts and the voltage-divider you have made, you will loose around 0.25 watt in the resistor. That's a waste, on just around the limit for standard resistors.
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 01:07 AM
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Nice work

Just noticed one thing. Your voltage-divider is 1:11? Is that on purpose? That's about max 55 volts, equals something like 13S li-po.
If you use that high voltage I recommend to use at least 20K resistor (preferably higher).
With 50 volts and the voltage-divider you have made, you will loose around 0.25 watt in the resistor. That's a waste, on just around the limit for standard resistors.
Thanks,

no i will use only 3s lipos. I used the same voltage-divider values like the Flytron simple OSD 1k -10k. Which value is good for 3S use?
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 03:11 AM
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I have changed the GND isolate again and routed the GND manually

@Dennis, i want to add a button for the menu to the layout.

how should i connect the button? PD5 <-Button-> GND ?
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 07:47 AM
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Hi Dennis,
your OSD (in my Arduino nano) seems to be OK, but button on D6 input in Chrisser's schema is doing nothing. Is in your program something like RESET or anything else for using (yet soldered ) button ?
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 10:08 AM
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Hi Dennis,
your OSD (in my Arduino nano) seems to be OK, but button on D6 input in Chrisser's schema is doing nothing. Is in your program something like RESET or anything else for using (yet soldered ) button ?
hold the button from D6 and then reset the nano with the reset button on it. Now you should see the menu and you can stop to hold the d6 button. You can select anything you want if you push the button again.
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Thanks,

no i will use only 3s lipos. I used the same voltage-divider values like the Flytron simple OSD 1k -10k. Which value is good for 3S use?
I would use something like 1:4 - but it's not very important.
With 10 bit ADC the resolution is quite high. With 1:4 voltage-divider, you will have an accuracy of 0.02 volt.

I just wanted to be sure you wasn't planning to use it with 50+ volts and 10K resistor

I can't remember exactly what i used, but I think I used something like 6K and 2K resistor. Perhaps 10K and 3.3K? The value is not very important, just keep the total resistor-value above something like 2K (15^2 volt / 2000 ohm = 0.08 watt).
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 11:25 AM
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I have changed the GND isolate again and routed the GND manually

@Dennis, i want to add a button for the menu to the layout.

how should i connect the button? PD5 <-Button-> GND ?
Yes, the button should be connected like you write:
ArduinoPin -> Button -> Ground

You have to change this line to match the Arduino-pin (around line 140 in the file)
// The arduino-pin Button-pin is connected to:
#define Buttonpin_ 2

Just change to 5 if you use PD5, and you should be good to go
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Old Nov 24, 2011, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by J. Y. Cousteau View Post
Hi Dennis,
your OSD (in my Arduino nano) seems to be OK, but button on D6 input in Chrisser's schema is doing nothing. Is in your program something like RESET or anything else for using (yet soldered ) button ?
Copy-paste
You have to change this line to match the Arduino-pin (around line 140 in the file)
// The arduino-pin Button-pin is connected to:
#define Buttonpin_ 2

If you use PD6, the input should be 6

Except for that, Chrisser explains it just fine
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisser View Post
hold the button from D6 and then reset the nano with the reset button on it. Now you should see the menu and you can stop to hold the d6 button. You can select anything you want if you push the button again.
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 05:41 AM
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IT'S ALIVE WITH GPS!

I'm still really not quite sure why, but now it's alive and reporting satellites and a fix.

3 things I've noticed.

1. I've got a fixed DiY 5v power supply that actually outputs 5.1v. If I power the Arduino with this voltage, the text starts to go black in places and not at all white, I've resolved it for the time being by feeding the +5v through a diode and my OSD text is all white.

2. After the initial GPS lock, I can't see on the screen anywhere that tells me my current number of satellites or signal strength. Is it actually there and I can't see it, something that has been omitted, or a configuration option?

3. The text in the middle of the screen showing my flight summary (and also the initial GPS locking screen) is quite blurry. Is there something I can do about that?

Cheers,
Paul.
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 06:00 AM
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Glad you made it work

Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthPawPaul View Post
IT'S ALIVE WITH GPS!

I'm still really not quite sure why, but now it's alive and reporting satellites and a fix.

3 things I've noticed.

1. I've got a fixed DiY 5v power supply that actually outputs 5.1v. If I power the Arduino with this voltage, the text starts to go black in places and not at all white, I've resolved it for the time being by feeding the +5v through a diode and my OSD text is all white.

Cheers,
Paul.
I can't explain that. The micro-controller should be able to handle 5.5 volt according to the datasheet. I have done quite a few tests, but never noticed that problem. I have only noticed some similar behavior when I messed around with SPI-settings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthPawPaul View Post
2. After the initial GPS lock, I can't see on the screen anywhere that tells me my current number of satellites or signal strength. Is it actually there and I can't see it, something that has been omitted, or a configuration option?
Number of satellites was shown quite a few versions back, but I removed it again. When I turn on my OSD/GPS I usually have something like 9 satellites and passed the delay before I even get my googles on. The GPS-reception from a plane is pretty good, and in my case it was just useless information while flying. You can pretty easy add it again, but it's not an option in the menu.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthPawPaul View Post
3. The text in the middle of the screen showing my flight summary (and also the initial GPS locking screen) is quite blurry. Is there something I can do about that?
The text in the middle is "printed" exactly like the rest of the text, so it shouldn't really make any difference. If you dim the display too much or you too bright text you might saturate the input giving a little "after-effect" on the text.
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 07:02 AM
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Copy-paste
You have to change this line to match the Arduino-pin (around line 140 in the file)
// The arduino-pin Button-pin is connected to:
#define Buttonpin_ 2

If you use PD6, the input should be 6

Except for that, Chrisser explains it just fine
Thanks!!! OSD (even also button ) works!

For all:
Don't connect HK GPS-module (G-OSD) to Arduino nano's 5 V (if you like it )! It's heavy and slow (baud rate 4800) module with high consumption!
Cheap dealextreme module (EM-411) is trash!
Only Flytron module is full compatible with Arduino nano.
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by J. Y. Cousteau View Post
Thanks!!! OSD (even also button ) works!

For all:
Don't connect HK GPS-module (G-OSD) to Arduino nano's 5 V (if you like it )! It's heavy and slow (baud rate 4800) module with high consumption!
Cheap dealextreme module (EM-411) is trash!
Only Flytron module is full compatible with Arduino nano.
Great to hear
Have you tried it "in-air"?

I would expect both HK gps-module and EM-411 to work as well, but I haven't tried myself. The GPS from flytron is not that expensive, and it works very well - so I have used that as reference when the code was written. And the GPS-simulation programs as well.
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 04:19 AM
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Not yet. I've got prepared a little bit modified "Tomahawk II" (with added plywood middle part for motor, RC and 5.8GHz FPV), but here (central Europe) is now always some combination of chilly, windy, foggy and rainy
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 04:22 AM
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Not yet. I've got prepared a little bit modified "Tomahawk II" (with added plywood middle part for motor, RC and 5.8GHz FPV), but here (central Europe) is now always some combination of chilly, windy, foggy and rainy
You just have to get above the fog and rain-clouds and bring some gloves
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 04:36 AM
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Dennis so the diy osd should work with 9600 baud rate gps like that cheap one from trenz electronic.
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 04:38 AM
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You just have to get above the fog and rain-clouds and bring some gloves
Yeah... but above the fog is usually not really a good place to maiden a new FPV ship. Suffering the same here...

Markus
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 04:41 AM
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Dennis so the diy osd should work with 9600 baud rate gps like that cheap one from trenz electronic.
I can't guarantee anything, but I would expect it to work yes.
I don't know the GPS from trenz electronic, but it's recommended to config/setup the GPS, to only send the necessary NMEA-strings. The config for flytron GPS is included as default, and I wrote a config for sirf-based GPS's quite a few posts back.
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 04:44 AM
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Yeah... but above the fog is usually not really a good place to maiden a new FPV ship. Suffering the same here...

Markus
As long as you stay above the fog you will be fine. It's only a problem when you have to get below the fog again :P

Okay, fog doesn't provide the best circumstances for a maiden - gotta give you that. The weather is not fantastic at the moment.
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 05:00 AM
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Cousteau be sure to post a video of em-411 in flight performance...why do you say its crap?
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 11:02 AM
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I've got a question to the button.
In the program setup I enabled the button on pin 2 and I connected it with a 4,7k resistor. But how do I use it ?
If I press the button, the osd disappears und comes back after a few seconds, as I would restart the arduino over the restart button.
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jflyer2 View Post
I've got a question to the button.
In the program setup I enabled the button on pin 2 and I connected it with a 4,7k resistor. But how do I use it ?
If I press the button, the osd disappears und comes back after a few seconds, as I would restart the arduino over the restart button.
the button should not reset/remove all text no matter how/when you press it. Have you connected it like this?
Pin 2 -> 4.7K resistor -> ground?

The resistor shouldn't be necessary, but you can leave it if you want.

To enter the menu you have to hold the button on power-up, but I guess that's the least of your problems if your OSD restarts when you press the button.
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 11:29 AM
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I connected it this way:

Pin 2 -> 4,7k -> Button -> Ground
..................'-> Ground
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jflyer2 View Post
I connected it this way:

Pin 2 -> 4,7k -> Button -> Ground
..................'-> Ground
Year sorry, I forget the button

You have connected it to the input/output marked "2" on Arduino, and not A2 or something else?
And just to be completly sure, you are not trying to use the reset button on Arduino? Sounds strange that the board resets when you press the button.
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 12:14 PM
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It works with this configuration:
Ground -> 4,7k resistor -> Button -> Pin 2 (D2 on Arduino Nano)
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 12:49 PM
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Cousteau be sure to post a video of em-411 in flight performance...why do you say its crap?
My em-411 knows only red blinking. Even outdoor!!! Without any protocols (NMEA, ...) of course Blinking stops only in house lift or near one. Even on ground floor! From that I deduced : my em-411 needs somewhat bigger additional antenna!
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 01:14 PM
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It works with this configuration:
Ground -> 4,7k resistor -> Button -> Pin 2 (D2 on Arduino Nano)
For grounding you need no resistor!!! Current from pin to ground will produce some voltage. If its voltage above 2 V, pin will be "set" (log. 1) and button won‘t work!
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 01:22 PM
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For grounding you need no resistor!!! Current from pin to ground will produce some voltage. If its voltage above 2 V, pin will be "set" (log. 1) and button won‘t work!
4.7K should be fine. While it might not be necessary, it's not a bad idea if you accidently set the pin as output and high
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 09:13 AM
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Howdy there Denis,

Hope you are well and flying high.

Question, what is your views of this GPS unit?

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1249

Edited:
I believe this is the one you are using correct?

http://flytron.com/osd-headtrackers/...ps-module.html
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 09:39 AM
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Hope you are well and flying high.
I always stay near ground...






Quote:
Originally Posted by rimshotcopter View Post
Howdy there Denis,

Hope you are well and flying high.

Question, what is your views of this GPS unit?

http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1249

Edited:
I believe this is the one you are using correct?

http://flytron.com/osd-headtrackers/...ps-module.html
Yes, I use the GPS from flytron and have been very impressed with the performance. I'm able to get GPS-lock inside a concret building, and the size of the GPS is just nice.

I have always thought it would be annoying to wait for GPS-fix when flying, but most of the time I'm the one feeling stupid. The GPS usually find satellites before i find my googles
- When you change battery it will have GPS-fix close to instant.

I'm sure you can find other GPS's that will perform similar, but at the price and size I haven't been bothered to try a lot of different GPS-devices.
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 09:45 AM
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I always stay near ground...








Yes, I use the GPS from flytron and have been very impressed with the performance. I'm able to get GPS-lock inside a concret building, and the size of the GPS is just nice.

I have always thought it would be annoying to wait for GPS-fix when flying, but most of the time I'm the one feeling stupid. The GPS usually find satellites before i find my googles
- When you change battery it will have GPS-fix close to instant.

I'm sure you can find other GPS's that will perform similar, but at the price and size I haven't been bothered to try a lot of different GPS-devices.
Awesome pictures and I will order the same GPS unit that you are using. It is cheaper also.
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 09:47 AM
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Awesome pictures and I will order the same GPS unit that you are using. It is cheaper also.
Thanks, but you have probably already seen them. I haven't been flying much the last couple of weeks, the weather is nothing to brag about.

I would also go with the flytron GPS
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 09:48 AM
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Thanks, but you have probably already seen them. I haven't been flying much the last couple of weeks, the weather is nothing to brag about.

I would also go with the flytron GPS
Kinda of an off-topic question, have you considered building a UAV?
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 09:54 AM
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Kinda of an off-topic question, have you considered building a UAV?
Yes
I was offered an OpenLRS from flytron to develop a bit, and have considered to implement a cheap autopilot etc. But I haven't received anything yet, so lets see.
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 10:35 AM
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Thats great. Please remain in the spirit of open hardware, that people will still have the possibility to build them self using the dx nano as a building block for example... The target price should be under 200$ because that new fy autopilot will be priced there..the added benefit here is that also the control system is implemented. So you will put all the code on the atmega 328 on the openlrs..what about on the groundstation side what will be implemented.
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 10:39 AM
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Thats great. Please remain in the spirit of open hardware, that people will still have the possibility to build them self using the dx nano as a building block for example... The target price should be under 200$ because that new fy autopilot will be priced there..the added benefit here is that also the control system is implemented. So you will put all the code on the atmega 328 on the openlrs..what about on the groundstation side what will be implemented.
200$? No worries
Arduino: 20 $
Gps : 20-40 $
Gyro+acc : 20-60 $ (wii acc +gyro is pretty cheap)

Around 100$ should be doable.

But so far it's just an idea
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 11:06 AM
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Another question to GPS: Is it possible to connect one gps module to 2 different things ? I this case to the osd and the FrSky telemetry.
I ordered the flytron gps.
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 11:09 AM
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Another question to GPS: Is it possible to connect one gps module to 2 different things ? I this case to the osd and the FrSky telemetry.
I ordered the flytron gps.
Shouldn't be any problem
In worst case you have to add a resistor or two, but I would be surprised if that's necessary.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 03:55 PM
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Maybe a baro could be nice also...Or any other strategy to cope with that, possibly going full throttle on the "return journey"...

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200$? No worries
Arduino: 20 $
Gps : 20-40 $
Gyro+acc : 20-60 $ (wii acc +gyro is pretty cheap)

Around 100$ should be doable.

But so far it's just an idea
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:00 PM
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Maybe a baro could be nice also...Or any other strategy to cope with that, possibly going full throttle on the "return journey"...
You should be fine with just GPS. If you just set cruise-altitude to "x" and accept something like +/- 5-10 meters. That should give plenty of accuracy for safe RTH, waypoints etc.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:02 PM
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Hot .. Waypoints, probably modified directly in "sketch" right...not in a UI? Could one toggle selection (rth, waypoints, loiter) from the rc tx?
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:07 PM
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You should be fine with just GPS. If you just set cruise-altitude to "x" and accept something like +/- 5-10 meters. That should give plenty of accuracy for safe RTH, waypoints etc.
Yea, when you are flying at 6,000 fleet, what is +/- 16 feet? LOL
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:08 PM
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Hot .. Waypoints, probably modified directly in "sketch" right...not in a UI?
Haha, lets see
I haven't really decided if I'll start the project or not, but it would definatly be great fun.

It shouldn't be that difficult to make an UI for waypoints etc. compatible with for example google maps, but that's not exactly the first thing I'm gonna do
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:09 PM
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Yea, when you are flying at 6,000 fleet, what is +/- 16 feet? LOL
I think rth is meant for longer range flights, and if you want longer range you should be flying higher that your video signal could come through back to you...
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:10 PM
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OMG Dennis you are a genius, if you make this happen, and if I succeed to use that I'll come to Denmark and buy you dinner ..

So thats at least 1 kind of motivation to start it ...

Quote:
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Haha, lets see
I haven't really decided if I'll start the project or not, but it would definatly be great fun.

It shouldn't be that difficult to make an UI for waypoints etc. compatible with for example google maps, but that's not exactly the first thing I'm gonna do
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:11 PM
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Yea, when you are flying at 6,000 fleet, what is +/- 16 feet? LOL
Exactly
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:16 PM
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And the osd could write on the screen in which mode one is ...rth etc. ..also artifical horizon would be possible (don't know if really useful though)..
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:28 PM
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And the osd could write on the screen in which mode one is ...rth etc. ..also artifical horizon would be possible (don't know if really useful though)..
Msev, no disrespect for the outstanding work and accomplishments of Dennis but what we Copter guys need to do is, Gut the GPS, battery monitoring and replace that with serial reads from the MultiWii Controller.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:35 PM
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Msev, no disrespect for the outstanding work and accomplishments of Dennis but what we Copter guys need to do is, Gut the GPS, battery monitoring and replace that with serial reads from the MultiWii Controller.
Should be pretty straight forward if the commands from MultiWii is easy readable

Feel free to show all the disrespect you want, looking at my own code I'm impressed some of you have been able to understand just 10 %

Next time I'll try to remember that someone else might have to look at the code as well.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 04:41 PM
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P.S. the latest WiiCopter version 1.9, had GPS and the data can be read along with any of the other senor data.
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 05:16 PM
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Msev, no disrespect for the outstanding work and accomplishments of Dennis but what we Copter guys need to do is, Gut the GPS, battery monitoring and replace that with serial reads from the MultiWii Controller.
When I get some time I will start to look into mating diyosd with some code to handle input for GPS/battery etc from a copter. I will be doing the integration with Megapirate, but it should be fairly simple to get the same running with Multiwii as well now that is supports GPS.

- Thomas
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 08:31 PM
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When I get some time I will start to look into mating diyosd with some code to handle input for GPS/battery etc from a copter. I will be doing the integration with Megapirate, but it should be fairly simple to get the same running with Multiwii as well now that is supports GPS.

- Thomas
Hey Thomas,

Here is what I have done so far, I made sub-files of many of the routines and variables. Should be an easy integration from here forward.

http://code.google.com/p/diy-osd-ope...downloads/list

Get the latest version.
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 12:42 AM
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Some free sky might do the trick if there isn't anything else incorrect connected or configured. I always have to go outside my house to get GPS to lock.
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 10:44 AM
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I am sooo in the wrong hobby (I have no time due to 1 and 2 year olds at home). Has anyone submitted a PCB design that is pin-compatible with Arduino pro mini?
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 02:03 PM
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I just received an LM1881. But how to connect it ?
I made the curcuit like in the schematic in the first post ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...=4273256&stc=1)

But this doesn't look compatible to the schematic of (http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...41-diy-osd.jpg)
Where is the difference between PIN2 and D2 ?
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 02:04 PM
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Hope I don't offend anyone with the next question (being off topic):

A question for all you guys who are very fluent in electronic knowledge, does anyone know what is the difference between this two gps's:

FGPMMOPA6C (PA6C) and FGPMMOPA6B...First one is selling for 15eur+vat+shipping (trenz electronic) the other one is selling for 25eur + 3$ shipping (flytron)...

If in a project the B version works would also the C work, where is the difference? (in initialization or where)
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 02:14 PM
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Here's a suggestion for IMU: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1522083

using multiwii 1.7 as a starting point for your code Dennis..
This might help you (airplane mode):

http://www.multiwii.com/forum/viewto...ilit=aeroplane

Here is another cheap usable acc:

http://www.multiwii.com/forum/viewto...r+man&start=10
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 02:35 PM
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I am sooo in the wrong hobby (I have no time due to 1 and 2 year olds at home). Has anyone submitted a PCB design that is pin-compatible with Arduino pro mini?
Most PCB-designs have been made without Arduino in mind. But it should be pretty easy to make the circuit on a little test-print etc.

Quote:
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I just received an LM1881. But how to connect it ?
I made the curcuit like in the schematic in the first post ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...=4273256&stc=1)

But this doesn't look compatible to the schematic of (http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...41-diy-osd.jpg)
Where is the difference between PIN2 and D2 ?
If you use LM1881 you shouldn't use the Schematic on page 1. The last one you linked to should be fine, and that's basically all you need

The difference? Well, D2 should be connected to D2 on the controller, and the PIN2 should be connected to PIN2 on LM1881.
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by msev View Post
Here's a suggestion for IMU: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1522083

using multiwii 1.7 as a starting point for your code Dennis..
This might help you (airplane mode):

http://www.multiwii.com/forum/viewto...ilit=aeroplane

Here is another cheap usable acc:

http://www.multiwii.com/forum/viewto...r+man&start=10
Definatly some interesting projects
Using some of the code from other projects would definatly be a lot easier, but not as fun. You can take a look at ArduPilot, great project and pretty cheap (25$ without sensors).
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8785

That's probably a better choice if you want something to play with now
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 02:48 PM
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Definatly some interesting projects
Using some of the code from other projects would definatly be a lot easier, but not as fun. You can take a look at ArduPilot, great project and pretty cheap (25$ without sensors).
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8785

That's probably a better choice if you want something to play with now
I have one of the 25 bucks ArduPilot Specials, great product.
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 03:41 PM
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hm, I don't get it to work with the LM1881.
Is my schematic correct ? I think we need a LM1881 circuit for total noobs here
GPS or any other sensor are not connected yet. I just want to get anything displayed.
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 03:47 PM
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hm, I don't get it to work with the LM1881.
Is my schematic correct ? I think we need a LM1881 circuit for total noobs here
GPS or any other sensor are not connected yet. I just want to get anything displayed.
This is what I used: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=864
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 04:12 PM
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This should be the same, but a bit "cleaner"


I will try to update post #1 with the schematic for LM1881 as well.
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 04:39 AM
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This should be the same, but a bit "cleaner"


I will try to update post #1 with the schematic for LM1881 as well.
Attention with the 680k on the lm1881 it isnt a 10k resistor.

@jflyer2
For the Diode yoi should try a 1n4148 i had problems with the 1n4007.
Have you connected th D2 and D3 to the Lm1881?
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 09:01 AM
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I don't know why, but after reconnecting all it works. But it's not in sync yet (with the LM1881). Just the top line ist displayed correctly. All other lines are just jittering. I builded the circuit on a breakout board. If I move my hand above it, it's all jittering. So it's just a problem of the breakout board configuration ? Will this problem disappear if I solder it on a circuit board ?
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 09:05 AM
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Attention with the 680k on the lm1881 it isnt a 10k resistor.

@jflyer2
For the Diode yoi should try a 1n4148 i had problems with the 1n4007.
Have you connected th D2 and D3 to the Lm1881?
Nice catch with the resistor
Thanks!
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 09:07 AM
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I don't know why, but after reconnecting all it works. But it's not in sync jet (with the LM1881). Just the top line ist displayed correctly. All other lines are just jittering. I builded the circuit on a breakout board. If I move my hand above it, it's all jittering. So it's just a problem of the breakout board configuration ? Will this problem disappear if I solder it on a circuit board ?
If you use the LM1881 solution, have ac-coupled it right (used a 0.1 uF cap as shown in the schematic) and a 680K resistor (and not 10K), you can't really do much. The LM1881 IC should do all the fancy stuff.

What camera do you use? If the video-signal is out of specs it might cause problems. If that's the cause it can probably be solved with a little pull-down resistor, voltage-divider etc.
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 09:55 AM
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I caught some inconsistency, in this thread http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread....sd+dennis+frie he has in the parts list to use: 1 -Capacitor: 0.01uF ...but in your schematic it's written 0.1uF...So which value is correct?
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by msev View Post
I caught some inconsistency, in this thread http://fpvlab.com/forums/showthread....sd+dennis+frie he has in the parts list to use: 1 -Capacitor: 0.01uF ...but in your schematic it's written 0.1uF...So which value is correct?
It's 0.1 uF = 100 nF. You can check the LM1881 datasheet, it also recommends 0.1 uF cap, seems to be the standard value when ac-coupling video-signal.

I tested on the Arduino version, and the value didn't seem to make any major difference. You will probably also get a good result with 0.01 uF. The important thing is to ac-couple the signal, and the recommended value is 0.1 uF
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 10:30 AM
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I tested a bit many different parts and resistor sizes (for R2). But it doesn't help. I don't get a synchronized image with the LM1881. Without it, I got a better image. But I made the experience, that if I move some cables on the bread bord the image gets better. So is it possible that if I solder this circuit the jitter problem will disappear ?
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jflyer2 View Post
I tested a bit many different parts and resistor sizes (for R2). But it doesn't help. I don't get a synchronized image with the LM1881. Without it, I got a better image. But I made the experience, that if I move some cables on the bread bord the image gets better. So is it possible that if I solder this circuit the jitter problem will disappear ?
Changing R1 and R2 will only change the brightness and the dimming. The values is more or less a personal preference - and will not influence the sync.

You said: "Without it, I got a better image"
So your picture is worse with the LM1881 in the circuit? The LM1881 IC shouldn't change anything in regard to image-quality. I don't expect your sync is better without the LM1881
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 03:30 PM
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It doesn't affact the image quality, but the osd ist really bad. I see just the top lines. All under these lines isn't readable. There are only white stripes to see. Even if I build the circuit without the LM1881 an rotate the poti a little bit to left or right from "the perfect" position.
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jflyer2 View Post
It doesn't affact the image quality, but the osd ist really bad. I see just the top lines. All under these lines isn't readable. There are only white stripes to see. Even if I build the circuit without the LM1881 an rotate the poti a little bit to left or right from "the perfect" position.
So you have the exact same problem with both hardware versions? Can you post a picture of the OSD-text?

Have you tried to put a finger in front of the camera (total darkness) to see how that change the OSD text?

What camera do you use?
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Old Dec 03, 2011, 09:43 AM
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I use a HobbyKing 1/3-inch SONY CCD Video Camera (PAL) (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16461)
I attached a picture shot from my googles. This is what the osd looks like. The circuit is now soldered on a circuit board.

Maybe it's important to say: The arduino is currently powered by USB an the osd is connected between the video receiver and the goggles, not between the camera and the transmitter.
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Old Dec 03, 2011, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jflyer2 View Post
I use a HobbyKing 1/3-inch SONY CCD Video Camera (PAL) (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16461)
I attached a picture shot from my googles. This is what the osd looks like. The circuit is now soldered on a circuit board.

Maybe it's important to say: The arduino is currently powered by USB an the osd is connected between the video receiver and the goggles, not between the camera and the transmitter.
I don't really have any good ideas.
To be sure it's not the software, you can try to load version 0.14 - it's more or less the same, just without the menu-system etc.

Do you have a scope available? It would be interesting to see if the video-signal is 1 vpp.
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Old Dec 03, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jflyer2 View Post
I use a HobbyKing 1/3-inch SONY CCD Video Camera (PAL) (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16461)
I attached a picture shot from my googles. This is what the osd looks like. The circuit is now soldered on a circuit board.

Maybe it's important to say: The arduino is currently powered by USB an the osd is connected between the video receiver and the goggles, not between the camera and the transmitter.
under which operating system do you compile the arduino source code? i had a similar problem when i compiled under ubuntu 11.10.

joerg
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Old Dec 03, 2011, 11:51 AM
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I compiled it under Windows 7 64 bit. But I found the error: It was my homemade diversity controller which influenced the osd. I don't know why, but without the controller the osd works really good.

Just one question: How can I enable the dimming ? I've got version 0.17 and tryied for the resistor R2 values between 0 and about 1k Ohm. But I don't get a dimming.
It's enabled in the code (#define dim_on 1)
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