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Old Dec 01, 2012, 02:29 PM
They call me plan B
Heli Biggie's Avatar
United States, GA, Covington
Joined Mar 2011
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great day home from vacation

walkera v450d01 3d dec 1 2012 1 (4 min 22 sec)


walkera v450d01 3d dec 1 2012 (2 min 57 sec)


align trex 600 pro 3d dec 1 2012 1 (3 min 59 sec)


align trex 600 pro 3d dec 1 2012 2 (4 min 36 sec)


the nano in disney really came in handy. boy it is always windy in flordia, integrity.lol
made me ready to fly the big boys today
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 03:27 AM
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United States, MA, Norton
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Only if you download the Devo 2.0 firmware right?
With a Devo 10 right out of the box with version 1.01A I don't you can. & that is what I was talking about.


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Old Dec 02, 2012, 03:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iflyhelis View Post
Only if you download the Devo 2.0 firmware right?
With a Devo 10 right out of the box with version 1.01A I don't you can. & that is what I was talking about.
With official firmware, you can't, true, but what's stopping you getting Deviation on your 10?
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 11:30 AM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
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Originally Posted by flint723 View Post
This is actually a problem reported to me by a guy i sold the BNIP 2702v-d to. He is sending it back now, so soon I will be able to see for myself. I hope it was just user error, I really don't want to have to give him his money back.
I personally have not experienced this. The only problems i have had while doing the actual configuration with the RX is with the button it's self. I have had a few problems with the setup not actually taking correctly and having to go though it again to properly set the end points. But i have never had it move on it's own or do anything like your describing. I only recently heard of this issue from eugenechong in another thread. It sounds like the same issue. But he was actually able to get his rudder setup correctly in the past and fly too. So i can only speculate on possible TX settings or something else. Otherwise it's possibly another random issue.
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I personally have not experienced this. The only problems i have had while doing the actual configuration with the RX is with the button it's self. I have had a few problems with the setup not actually taking correctly and having to go though it again to properly set the end points. But i have never had it move on it's own or do anything like your describing. I only recently heard of this issue from eugenechong in another thread. It sounds like the same issue. But he was actually able to get his rudder setup correctly in the past and fly too. So i can only speculate on possible TX settings or something else. Otherwise it's possibly another random issue.
yeah like i was saying before.....the v2702 rx that i was using was working fine for 6 months and it started to play up. it started with burning off 2 tail servos....and then the last incident was a tail locked out on a new align ds520 servo.....after that i just couldn't get the setup done properly again.....shame!
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 03:34 AM
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I would prefer official firmware, after seeing the note stating that the 2.0 firmware is/or not licensed & could cause problems with the TX. Plus I have no need to emulate a 2801 Pro TX or use a 2702V RX just call me careful.



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Originally Posted by sbstnp View Post
With official firmware, you can't, true, but what's stopping you getting Deviation on your 10?
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by iflyhelis View Post
I would prefer official firmware, after seeing the note stating that the 2.0 firmware is/or not licensed & could cause problems with the TX. Plus I have no need to emulate a 2801 Pro TX or use a 2702V RX just call me careful.
Care to point me to where you saw that?
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:01 AM
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This where I saw it.
http://www.deviationtx.com



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Originally Posted by sbstnp View Post
Care to point me to where you saw that?
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:57 PM
They call me plan B
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United States, GA, Covington
Joined Mar 2011
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So my power supply just stopped working , no external fuses, so i hope its under warrenty. How do i connect charger to car battery, i mean do i need the car running?
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Heli Biggie View Post
So my power supply just stopped working , no external fuses, so i hope its under warrenty. How do i connect charger to car battery, i mean do i need the car running?
Hi Biggie, all I've ever used was a small 12v motorcycle battery and a small 3amp automotive charger. You don't have to start or run your car, but don't let the battery run down too far or it will kill the battery. If I were you, i'd buy a cheap automotive charger a nd a small motorcycle batt or just hook up the charger to your car batt before charging
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 01:38 AM
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Yeah, like an moron i killed my battery the other day charging 3 6S packs and 2 3S packs. So basically 4 6S packs were on the charger. 4000+ mAh each for an hour is enough to kill your battery. So yeah you have to run your car for a little while. You might want to put a charger on the battery after to top it off. Gas is expensive to just let your car run. I think in a hour or so it will burn about a gallon of gas. More if you have a v8 or something.

My charger came with jumper cable type terminal clips for the car battery. It has female 4mm bullet connectors on it to accept the main power input plugs on my charger. Yours should be similar with 4mm male bullet plugs to plug into your power supply? My power supply is a old 400 watt PC power supply. It's been making funny noises lately so I'm a little worried.


Here is what you need for the car battery:
http://helidirect.com/hyperion-repla...rs-p-20560.hdx
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:15 AM
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But why are those power supplies so expensive?
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by barnstorm100 View Post
But why are those power supplies so expensive?
To make a profit on people that don't want to go though the trouble or don't know how to modify a PC power supply. To be honest, some of those power supples are worth spending the money on because they have lots of protections and better circuitry. So they may last a long time. But i'm kind of skeptical of most of them. But, you can go buy a computer ATX power supply for about $80-100 or something. It's been a while since i had to buy them. They probably are a little more than that now. But they are not as much as the charger power supplies people sell for their chargers, typicaly. Plus you might just have one laying around in one of your 15 desktop computers the kids never use anymore, or whatever. Someone has one laying out in the trash right now ready for pick up, somewhere. Most of the time they just get thrown away. There is also pure 12V regulated power supplies for testing electronics and things of that nature. I have a 30 amp one in my workshop but i don't use it for my chargers. These bench power supplies are also very costly, so i don't want to burn mine out charging batteries. So lots of people also do this mod to avoid the high cost on bench power supplies.

The way ATX power supplies work is a lot like how the BEC works on our helicopters.By using "switching" it regulates 3 different voltage outputs and steps them down from 110-220v AC. By simply tricking the power supply into thinking the PC's power button is on, you can use the power supply any way you like. Here is a pretty decent video i randomly picked just now to explain it better.

Converting Computer ATX Power Supply to Lab Bench Power Supply (14 min 58 sec)



Oh yeah, for our purposes all we really need is the 12V part. All the rest can be removed really. But you really must be careful with this. You also need to be sure your charger is powered sufficiently. I prefer to have head room. So a 200 watt charger needs at least 200 watts. I am using a 400 watt PSU at the moment i think.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
To make a profit on people that don't want to go though the trouble or don't know how to modify a PC power supply. To be honest, some of those power supples are worth spending the money on because they have lots of protections and better circuitry. So they may last a long time. But i'm kind of skeptical of most of them. But, you can go buy a computer ATX power supply for about $80-100 or something. It's been a while since i had to buy them. They probably are a little more than that now. But they are not as much as the charger power supplies people sell for their chargers, typicaly. Plus you might just have one laying around in one of your 15 desktop computers the kids never use anymore, or whatever. Someone has one laying out in the trash right now ready for pick up, somewhere. Most of the time they just get thrown away. There is also pure 12V regulated power supplies for testing electronics and things of that nature. I have a 30 amp one in my workshop but i don't use it for my chargers. These bench power supplies are also very costly, so i don't want to burn mine out charging batteries. So lots of people also do this mod to avoid the high cost on bench power supplies.

The way ATX power supplies work is a lot like how the BEC works on our helicopters.By using "switching" it regulates 3 different voltage outputs and steps them down from 110-220v AC. By simply tricking the power supply into thinking the PC's power button is on, you can use the power supply any way you like. Here is a pretty decent video i randomly picked just now to explain it better.

...


Oh yeah, for our purposes all we really need is the 12V part. All the rest can be removed really. But you really must be careful with this. You also need to be sure your charger is powered sufficiently. I prefer to have head room. So a 200 watt charger needs at least 200 watts. I am using a 400 watt PSU at the moment i think.

I use one from a decommissioned server from work. Actually not a server but a security appliance. The power source provides 13A on the 12V rail and has a built in fan and power switch. Since my charger is only 5A, I have plenty of room left, that might change one day if I ever upgrade to a larger heli and packs.

The conversion took about 1 hour, that includes dismantling, cleaning, removing 5V and 3.3V rails, soldering new wires for 12V and a plug. Then I put some rubber feet underneath and that's all.

The one I use is a Sunpower SPX-6200A1 and occasionally can be found on ebay. What I like about it is that it is really small, 10x18x4 cm, do your math in inches if you like.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:50 AM
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I didn't need to open my power supply up, I simply altered the wires coming out the back of it, most have an on off switch anyway, just take one of the 12v (usually the yellow in the UK) wires and put an adapter on it that fits your charger, just make sure that you get the polarities right when soldering the wires (live and earth) to the adapter. Well, make sure your ok with doing it first and foremost, if you are, this is the easiest way I've found.

Not had any problems with mine, only cost abut 10 from Maplins.
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