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Old Jul 20, 2011, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by stompjrkz400 View Post
the motor pushed my rc car to 40 mph, so im just going to use it, like i said, its a budget build, just something to pass the time. i like the clutch because the motor idles awesome.
also i have a tuneable ehaust and after a little porting and cleaning its runs very good. im running good motox 2 cycle oil and 15 % nitro, is mernads a store, i dont have one around here. and i have a resistor plugs already
You can get tne shaft log at any local hardware store.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 11:29 AM
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k, i run it in my race bikes, hasn't hurt them yet, yeah the oil is deff to rich with both in there, i found a flex cable, its 4 or 5 mm, i have a bunch of old speedometer cable from motorcycles, with seals and diff angled heads, so im going to see tonight if there going to be strong enough,
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 11:49 AM
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What kind of race bikes are you running glow fuel in?

There's a reason why there are different tanks, lines and seals for gasoline vs glow fuel (methanol/nitromethane).
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 01:21 PM
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United States, MI, Newaygo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stompjrkz400 View Post
i have an hpi 1/5 buggy exhaust that im going to use, so i should be able to move it up alot closer, someone i know has a homelite engine that im going to ask him about, hes saving the motor to make a gas power blender... but ok ill give teh weed eater flex shaft a look, also, is this an ok setup?

http://www.whhonline.com/product-p/xp2p.htm

i was thinking about just ordering that, but i work in a sheetmetal shop next to my house, so i might mess around with making my own flex setup first, only thing is i cant weld aluminum, so i have to either uses brass or steel.
You can use brass for your flex tube seT up,your local hobby store should have an assortment of K&S brass tubing.You will need an assortment of sizes to get it all set up this is what I came up with.I dont use teflon liner in the tube aither.The WHH set up would be GREAT and affordable.Just solder yer flex on the drive farrell and yer all set.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by carprigger38 View Post
You can use brass for your flex tube seT up,your local hobby store should have an assortment of K&S brass tubing.You will need an assortment of sizes to get it all set up this is what I came up with.I dont use teflon liner in the tube aither.The WHH set up would be GREAT and affordable.Just solder yer flex on the drive farrell and yer all set.
i like your setup, i have alot of brass siting around from other projects, ill see what i can pull together tonight.

running nitro in kz250 dirt drag bikes, vp gas and a little cox fuel, i cant remember the ratio, but alot of people at the track do it
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 03:05 PM
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I wouldn't suggest that in a model boat engine, if anything you're probably losing power.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:53 PM
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ok so i built a drive setup today, motor is still now mounted up yet, but i spun the drive up to 10,000 rpms to check it, works better than i thought it would, now i just need a devise something to hook the clutch to the flex shaft.

wparson, sorry, in not running anywhere near 15% nitro, its much lower than that, im going to tune the engine on normal fuel oil before i get it in the boat, i was just testing it out

here are the pics of my new drive setup, the pic is rough, im going to go through and clean the solder joints, also the bearing hanging out was extra, i put more in the shaft than i needed and it just pushed out, i tested the drive system with a highspeed dremel tool hooked up to it, at around 8500 rpms it starts to vibrate a little, then drops at 9k, im not sure but i dont think my craftsman motor will reach that high anyways



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Old Jul 21, 2011, 08:41 AM
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I hope you use Stay Brite solder???? Otherwise it's going to break loooooose. And your gonig to have to put a edge on the rudder and your going to need a turn fin to counter balance the engine torque roll. RPM dosen't mean anything. As soon as you put it in the water you loooose it. You need HP to make speed with RPM.
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Old Jul 21, 2011, 09:12 AM
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Turn fin to counter balance torque roll? I think you mean trim tabs...
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Old Jul 21, 2011, 11:14 AM
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ha, i have a turn fin for it, it has holes drilled for trim tabs, but there missing. the entire drive is rough, i used the correct solder, i still need to put an edge on the rudder, anyone think the rudder is to big? how should i angle the prop to start?
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Old Jul 21, 2011, 05:13 PM
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Oh I see you went subsurface,...Ive not seen them that low before.
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Old Jul 21, 2011, 05:40 PM
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im not a boat building, and i've messed with enough surface drives to know that im not going to try to scratch build one. but i cant adjust the prop height and angle a ton, i can bring it up two inches easy if i need to. i know nothing about boat drives, other than research, my last boat ( proboat widow maker 22 ) was a nightmare to setup, and overall terrible for me, to small, to fast, and the surface drive setup was so hard to get right.

i just want a big boat to chug along with, not a race boat, i dont know what kinda speeds to hope for, but i would love 15-20 mph, i just hope the boat gets up on plane
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Old Jul 23, 2011, 09:20 AM
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what kind of servo can i use, i have some futabo s3003's kicking around, but i dont know if they will be up to turning that rudder, or the throttle spring
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Old Jul 23, 2011, 09:26 AM
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I just don't trust 3003's for anything as I've had a few and all of them were junk, even back when I raced RC trucks. It's going to take a lot more than a 3003 anyway to turn a big rudder. I've been using Hi-tec HS 645-MG servos on all of my boats from .21 nitro up to my gassers. Any other standard servo will work for throttle duties.
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Old Jul 23, 2011, 10:11 AM
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Any servo with at least 150 oz. for the rudder and at least 50 oz for the throttle more would be better as some carbs have a stiffer spring I wouldn't put FUTABA in anything I own now. The Hitec 645 is starting to give me problems now to. So I've now started using JR.
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