Originally Posted by brathanke

dth I am on my phone right now but there are lots of posts about doing rollers. All I can say is keep practicing. Everything comes down to time and effort. You will get better with practice and even though progress may come slowly, it will come.

For the most rapid progress I recommend slowing things down. That means using your sim to slow the physics down. Start with physics set at around 60 or 70% and practice your timing. Try to make it smooth and precise. I tend to think of things in a sort of musical aense because I have spent over 15 years playing an instrument. The down beat is canopy up. The tempo changes but only because you don't have total control yet. Assuming you are rolling with left aileron pegged if you get a little ahead of the beat you will fly in a clockwise circle. Fly behind the beat and you will go counter-clockwise. Exactly on the beat and you are going straight. For me going clockwise is easy. Going straight is tougher but manageable. Going counterclockwise is a real challenge and I don't do it very often as a result. Anyway, there is another way of looking at it

Thanks very much. That helps. I actually fly to music often so maybe this will put me over the edge. I'll try the sim physics also.

Originally Posted by arnav

Why just not make two little marks on the bats themselves? This way you can have the CG dialed in for each battery and you would not have to check it each time. I make sure the marks are applied in relation to the last former of the motor box. Conventional wisdom says you should mark where the batteries go directly in the battery tray. However, I found that there could be quite a bit of variations between the same battery model. Perhaps it doesn't matter, but I am pedant....

EDIT: oh oh, i never played an instrument in my life. I think I am screwed...

You answered the reason to not mark the batts, they vary. I do ref the tray but make a quick check before closing the canopy. Just a habit I have gotten into due to distractions at the field and the fact that I fly so many different planes when I go out. If you are fortunate to have all the exact same batts marking them would work. I have a mixed bag.

I am confused. If you spend the time to check each battery, and make the marks directly on the batt right then, then the next time you use it you would know right away where to place it. By the time you have completed a full cycle through all your batts, you would know where to place each one right away. No?
It doesn't matter how many batts you have and if they are all different, becuase each battery will get its very own mark. No biggy, just thought maybe it is easier...

Originally Posted by arnav

I am confused. If you spend the time to check each battery, and make the marks directly on the batt right then, then the next time you use it you would know right away where to place it. By the time you have completed a full cycle through all your batts, you would know where to place each one right away. No?
It doesn't matter how many batts you have and if they are all different, becuase each battery will get its very own mark. No biggy, just thought maybe it is easier...

Making too much of this! I just have a habit of doing a 2 second double check of the cg before I fly. That's all. I use the batts on different planes and rather than write all over them I just place, strap, check and fly. I'm guessing I'm usually within a couple mm each time and that works for me.

"Perhaps it doesn't matter, but I am pedant.... " you said it I didn't ! :-)

LOL, well you know... recognition is the first step for recovery...

Originally Posted by arnav

what quad said plus (at the risk of stating the obvious), the battery has to sit wherever it needs to sit for the plane to be balanced at your desired CG. If you are using small batteries (say 2600 and below) and going for the sport CG first, I suspect that is going to be all the way against the foam behind the firewall. You did put some foam behind the FW right?
If your batteries are on the bigger side say 3000 and up, they will go an inch or two further aft which makes them easier to secure. As you balance the plane at a further CG point, the further back your batteries will be able to go. Either way they will go in the designated battery tray forward to the CG point (got to counter that fuse somehow...) and not in the middle of the CG point. If you still think you need pics let me know and i'll upload you some...

Maybe it is just my crooked fingers, but I find it impossible to balance a plane accurately with my fingers. Maybe it is also becuase I like to balance Planes with the prop spinning just a notch to simulate it being in the air...
**** kidding!***
Not having a fancy CG machine, I just drilled two holes in two wooden cubes connected to a ply box, and stuck two pencils in it (not my idea!). The cubes can be rotated to accommodate different size planes. It works so well, I am thinking of marketing it...

ok ill do my best!! no i have not put foam on fw whats this for ? and i if u have the time pic would be verry cool thank u

If you are using an Omega 130 with the stock length mounting bolts you are going to have about an inch sticking through the firewall into the battery area. The foam is to keep the battery from being punctured by the bolts. After I figured out what CG I liked with the Edge I trimmed the foam so that with the battery touching the foam my CG was where I wanted it to be. All of my 2200 batteries weigh within a 1/4 ounce of each other. I like my CG at about 80 mm for all types of flying.

Originally Posted by dth7

I'm going to get that extra. So are you just doing the rollers trial and error or are you learning them somewhere. I'd love to get some control over mine! I know- burn more lipos! I think I have to stop taking so many planes out at once. I usually have a car full of 2 EDFs, an EPP 43" yak, 42" Peaks Bipe and the Edge. I'll fly them all a few times. Maybe some concentrated practice is due.

I learned the basics on the sim and then refined them with my actual planes. I still have a ways to go but I can now roll in both directions and I can do fast or slow rollers. I can steer about where ever I want as well. The one thing that's still dogging me is the rolling loop. I can do the rolling upline but getting over the top and doing the downline roller part kills me. I just need more sim time on that.

I've been working on and off on rolling loops as well. They are getting better but it's hard to see when you have the plane up 100 ft That is where my rolling loops take place. I can always recover at the bottom but for now I'm just happy having the plain get in all of the attitudes of a loop. It certainly might not look like a loop to someone else most of the time

Originally Posted by brathanke

I've been working on and off on rolling loops as well. They are getting better but it's hard to see when you have the plane up 100 ft That is where my rolling loops take place. I can always recover at the bottom but for now I'm just happy having the plain get in all of the attitudes of a loop. It certainly might not look like a loop to someone else most of the time

My biggest issue is that I can't seem to do a straight rolling loop. If I get over the top then I come out perpendicular (or close to it) to my entry point. Plus, when I get over the top it makes a very pointy loop - I'd like to get them to where I can do a nice round loop eventually.

Ya I know what you mean. It is tough. I found that if I am sensitive to how strong of inputs I am giving anticipating how the shape works out and keeping plenty of power on during the upline and the top part of the loop helps. I'd like some input from someone who can consistently do a nice looking one to chime in on this, but it seems like the top part of the loop would need a lot less elevator/rudder input and then you want to get aggressive on elevator and rudder at the bottom when you are trying to recover level flight.

The coming out perpendicular thing is a timing issue and I have it too. It is so hard to be consistent throughout the move!

Originally Posted by teddy5085

ok ill do my best!! no i have not put foam on fw whats this for ? and i if u have the time pic would be verry cool thank u

This @ 3:55 explains the foam thingy. If this is your first 3dhs/3D frame, the series is really worth watching. The 48" Edge builds very similar. Here are pics with 3000mah (blue) and 2600mah (teal?) batteries.

EDIT: the batts in the pics are set for CG at 85mm (right in between the "sport" and the "3D" one). As was said above though, don't go by the pics. you will need to balance your own setup.

Originally Posted by MARCOELDRAGON

If you are using an Omega 130 with the stock length mounting bolts you are going to have about an inch sticking through the firewall into the battery area. The foam is to keep the battery from being punctured by the bolts. After I figured out what CG I liked with the Edge I trimmed the foam so that with the battery touching the foam my CG was where I wanted it to be. All of my 2200 batteries weigh within a 1/4 ounce of each other. I like my CG at about 80 mm for all types of flying.

Hmmm, thanks for this. I missed that in the build manual and video! Good idea though. Will have to add some. Would be a bummer to have a repairable crash go up in flames due to a punctured lipo. Good advise.

nevermind

Originally Posted by arnav

This @ 3:55 explains the foam thingy. If this is your first 3dhs/3D frame, the series is really worth watching. The 48" Edge builds very similar. Here are pics with 3000mah (blue) and 2600mah (teal?) batteries.

EDIT: the batts in the pics are set for CG at 85mm (right in between the "sport" and the "3D" one). As was said above though, don't go by the pics. you will need to balance your own setup.

Thanks arnav for the pics and the link to the vids of the edge build that helps alot thank u thank u thank u