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Old Aug 05, 2011, 08:51 PM
My RC builds in my profile.
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
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Originally Posted by 13brv3 View Post
Man, I go off to Panama City for the day and find two pages of towel bar posts when I get back

Bottom line, this just isn't anything I could recommend.

Rusty
lol
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Old Aug 05, 2011, 08:52 PM
My RC builds in my profile.
daign's Avatar
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Feb 2011
2,563 Posts
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Originally Posted by spectre6573 View Post
I build a large quad with 1/2 inch square tubing from home depot and while this thing is large with 23 inch mtm and an 8 inch sqaure plateform for fpv gear. Its is heavy and with dt 700 and 10x6 props i get 6 mins on 2200mah batteries. Not the desire flight time i would want but the other day i had a motor mount malfunction and it came to the concrete geound from 7 feet up on the tip of one arm. No damage to the frame and 10 min later was back in the air. This is great for learning but i quickly find a mass decrease for flight time needed.
http://www.goodwinds.com/goodwinds/m...ultrudedcarbon

12mm or .625 5/8. They'll even cut the 60" lengths to your specs. I had mine done at 15"
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Old Aug 05, 2011, 08:55 PM
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United States, TX, Thrall
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Rusty would it be possible to have a good closeup of the plates and how the arm mount the bars that I have are very close in size and all I do is put piece of 9/16" square out of wood to prevent the crush and also helps with vibs alot to.

Michael64
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Old Aug 05, 2011, 09:03 PM
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Hawaii
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Ok here are some pictures of another Rusty's frame. This is the Rev 7 frame modified to take two blocks per arm. I always wanted to try the upside down setup and this is a perfect candidate. Smooth as silk.
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Old Aug 05, 2011, 11:42 PM
aka Helidaho
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United States, ID, Boise
Joined Jun 2010
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So it sounds like I need to choose a new boom type... hmmm...
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 10:00 AM
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Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
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Originally Posted by Michael64 View Post
Rusty would it be possible to have a good closeup of the plates and how the arm mount the bars that I have are very close in size and all I do is put piece of 9/16" square out of wood to prevent the crush and also helps with vibs alot to.

Michael64
Hi Michael,

I'm not quite clear what you want to see? Sounds like you're asking for pictures of the tubes assembled without blocks, but other than just a quick fit, I haven't actually don't that.

Rusty
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 10:08 AM
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A mounting picture of the boom mounted with the blocks perferred with just the bottom plate and arms and blocks I know you do not have any without because thats not the way you designed it.

Michael64
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 10:18 AM
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Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
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Originally Posted by SeismicCWave View Post
Ok here are some pictures of another Rusty's frame. This is the Rev 7 frame modified to take two blocks per arm. I always wanted to try the upside down setup and this is a perfect candidate. Smooth as silk.
Motors pointing down have always been a favorite of mine. It will truly have less vibration and noise, since the energy of the air passing the booms is lower. In fact, once you even halfway balance props, the typical quad has far more vibration induced by the propwash hitting the arms than from the motor/prop imbalance.

At one point, I did an unscientific experiment to see how far the prop would have to be from the booms to reduce the vibration. On the downwind side (motors pointing up), the distance is in feet, so it's totally impractical. On the upwind side (motors pointing down), the distance is far less, so that you could probably move the prop away enough to make a very significant difference.

Making a frame specifically to reduce propwash vibration and noise has long been on the to-do list, and my interest in this is what keeps me away from square arms, flat arms, and those G10 tab in slot type arms. Round tubes aren't perfect, but they're better than the above options when it comes to reducing propwash disruptions. Just this week, I received some streamlined aluminum tubing, but as I feared, it's probably not going to be stiff enough.

BTW, what's that rat's nest of wires on top

Rusty
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 10:21 AM
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Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
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Originally Posted by Michael64 View Post
A mounting picture of the boom mounted with the blocks perferred with just the bottom plate and arms and blocks I know you do not have any without because thats not the way you designed it.

Michael64
Is there anything in the manual that shows what you want to see?
http://www.aglhobbiesllc.com/additio...v-8_manual.pdf

Rusty
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 01:39 PM
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Hawaii
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>>Motors pointing down have always been a favorite of mine. It will truly have less vibration and noise, since the energy of the air passing the booms is lower. In fact, once you even halfway balance props, the typical quad has far more vibration induced by the propwash hitting the arms than from the motor/prop imbalance.<<

As a matter of fact that was what I have noticed in one flight. This particular quad has all the propeller balanced but I can see a slight "buzz" on the landing gear. The "buzz" is totally gone once I mount the motors down like this.

>>BTW, what's that rat's nest of wires on top <<

That's call laziness. I change board around so fast I don't take the time to clean them up and tuck them away. I just put the together with some velcro so they are easy to take apart. Oh and I am using a circuit board to take out the red wire on three of the speed controllers. So there are three additional wire extensions on the top.

The only problem now is that the propellers get in the view for AP.
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Old Aug 06, 2011, 04:54 PM
aka Helidaho
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United States, ID, Boise
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Well I just pulled the trigger on a Rev8 frame, landing gear, and floating camera mount for my go pro. Going camping next weekend, hope to have it all assembled by then so I can get some good FPV footage!

Thanks,
Paul
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 05:59 PM
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United States, FL, St Petersburg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13brv3 View Post
Motors pointing down have always been a favorite of mine. It will truly have less vibration and noise, since the energy of the air passing the booms is lower. In fact, once you even halfway balance props, the typical quad has far more vibration induced by the propwash hitting the arms than from the motor/prop imbalance.

At one point, I did an unscientific experiment to see how far the prop would have to be from the booms to reduce the vibration. On the downwind side (motors pointing up), the distance is in feet, so it's totally impractical. On the upwind side (motors pointing down), the distance is far less, so that you could probably move the prop away enough to make a very significant difference.

Making a frame specifically to reduce propwash vibration and noise has long been on the to-do list, and my interest in this is what keeps me away from square arms, flat arms, and those G10 tab in slot type arms. Round tubes aren't perfect, but they're better than the above options when it comes to reducing propwash disruptions. Just this week, I received some streamlined aluminum tubing, but as I feared, it's probably not going to be stiff enough.

BTW, what's that rat's nest of wires on top

Rusty

I will be getting my kit from Rusty this week and I think I want to try pointing my motors down and giving this a try. Just a question what needs to be done different with the respect of which way the motors spin or the props being put on in a different way?

Chet
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Chad2323 View Post
I will be getting my kit from Rusty this week and I think I want to try pointing my motors down and giving this a try. Just a question what needs to be done different with the respect of which way the motors spin or the props being put on in a different way?

Chet
Motor spins the same way when you are looking down. So don't try to get the rotation correct then flip it upside down. You have to get the rotation correct while the motor is upside down. Mount the propeller with the proper way facing up. So the propeller is actually on the motor upside down.
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Old Aug 09, 2011, 06:11 PM
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Thank's allot I figured that but wasn't sure.

Thank's
Chet
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Old Aug 10, 2011, 12:07 AM
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United States, TN, Brentwood
Joined Oct 2010
563 Posts
Rusty -

I have been flying my REV-8 a LOT using an MK electronics stack tied to an i2c converter and six Turnigy-plush-like ESC's.

It has been remarkably stable, and fun to fly! But I havethis fully populated distribution ring of Holger's BL 2.0's, and so I finally decided to tear down my build and see if I can get my bird even smoother by using i2c based ESC's.

My question for you is: I cannot find holes on the frame plates to match up with the holes in the populated Hexa Distribution board. Am I doing something wrong?

If they are not there, would you consider adding them on future versions, or is that just too many holes? I ask this because I'm first in line to buy one or two more of your frames. I think they're awesome!

Thanks!
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