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Old Feb 28, 2012, 09:30 AM
Gary
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United States, MD, Salisbury
Joined Mar 2011
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Seismic and matt: I think you are probably correct but I got to thinking about those 3 degree shims for the MK.. .lol So I've got my motors as level as possible.
http://www.mikrokopter.de/ucwiki/en/AngleAdapter
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 09:42 AM
13brv3's Avatar
Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
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I took a quick look at this late last night. I clamped two mounts on a block using both pultruded tube, and aluminum tube.

Of course you can control the alignment as seen when viewing from the end of the arm by loosening and tightening the two screws. That should be no problem.

There's no adjustment for the alignment when viewed from the side of the arm, but I don't see any tendency to not be parallel. They were a few thousandths out of parallel, but that's nothing.

Cheers,
Rusty
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Old Feb 28, 2012, 10:18 AM
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hmm, weird, mine are definitely visibly not parallel and obviously augmented by the time you reach the end of the motor shaft and the prop itself. I'll re-do them to test it out.
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Old Feb 29, 2012, 01:37 PM
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machining

Rusty,

I'm not sure if this is the place to ask, but i'm curious about your milling setup. I've been experimenting with cutting Delrin on a 3-axis mill, but haven't seemed to find the sweet spot for depth of cut, speed, and feed on a single flute designed for plastic. Can I ask: What have you found to work best in this material?
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Old Feb 29, 2012, 03:45 PM
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Navarre, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franzix View Post
Rusty,

I'm not sure if this is the place to ask, but i'm curious about your milling setup. I've been experimenting with cutting Delrin on a 3-axis mill, but haven't seemed to find the sweet spot for depth of cut, speed, and feed on a single flute designed for plastic. Can I ask: What have you found to work best in this material?
It wouldn't matter where you ask, because I don't think there's any way I could answer it. I'm constantly tweaking the toolpaths, and of course everything (bits, depth, speed, mill construction) interacts, so what I do won't necessarily help you anyway.

Rusty
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Old Feb 29, 2012, 03:54 PM
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Cut the Delrin using fast speeds and feeds. Delrin is one of the softest materials you can cut on a milling machine, so you do not have to be conservative with either. Use a finishing end mill and any drill bits necessary to finish the part. Set the feed and speed on the maximum setting to get the part done quickly. Use air blasts to remove the built up of Delrin scrap material that may get in the way of cutting.

Here is a link: http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t412490p1/
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Old Feb 29, 2012, 04:52 PM
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thanks

Thanks for the responses. I've been cutting acrylic for some time, but just starting out with other "performance plastics." We'll see how it goes.
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 07:55 AM
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Sweden Linköping
Joined Aug 2009
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Have anyone any experience to use 10X10 mm aluminum square profiles to the arm's and the UAP1 plate. I have seen that mikrocopter use these profiles in there's frame'shttps://www.mikrocontroller.com/inde...569ff2c7400934
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 08:12 AM
EC-135 Driver
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United States, IA, Burlington
Joined Nov 2006
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sjak,

Any reason in particular why you want to use square arms?

The trouble with square arms is that they get 'un-square' pretty easily and then you're stuck. With round arms...if they get a little 'un-round' you can adjust them a bit more.

Someone is going to start producing arms that are square or flat at the motor end...and round at the frame end...and hopefully even tear-dropped shaped in the middle to be aerodynamic.

For now though...round arms are still cheap and easy to work with.

Plus...Rusty stopped offering square arms because they break frames in crashes. (but I'll let Rusty tell you about that)
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 08:19 AM
EC-135 Driver
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United States, IA, Burlington
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I've since gone back to 'flat' style multi's...(not coaxial motors).

But this style 'boom block' works really well for coaxials...they work well on 'flat' birds too.

One side is solid and the other is split.

With one 'split' left and the other right it pretty well solved the issue of getting the motors straight in relation to each other.

(sorry for the lousy picture...cell phone, bad lighting)
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 09:07 AM
13brv3's Avatar
Navarre, FL
Joined Mar 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjak View Post
Have anyone any experience to use 10X10 mm aluminum square profiles to the arm's and the UAP1 plate. I have seen that mikrocopter use these profiles in there's frame'shttps://www.mikrocontroller.com/inde...569ff2c7400934
There have never been any blocks to fit 10mm square tubing, so it's pretty unlikely that anyone has used them on a UAP1.

I've always preferred round arms, but square works too, and plenty of designs use them. If you really want to use 10mm square arms, you should be able to find several frames that support it.

Cheers,
Rusty
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 09:16 AM
13brv3's Avatar
Navarre, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 500Driver View Post

One side is solid and the other is split.

With one 'split' left and the other right it pretty well solved the issue of getting the motors straight in relation to each other.
The original blocks were only split on one side, and one of the reasons I got away from those was because the top and bottom were rarely parallel once they were tightened.

IF the the exact piece of tubing you have fits the block perfectly, then when it's fully tightened the top and bottom of the block will be parallel. Unfortunately, that's a big "if", and I found that I often had to use little shims under one side or the other of a mount to get the top and bottom motors parallel. That also tended to warp the frame plates as well, and the two piece blocks eliminate that problem.

Cheers,
Rusty
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Old Mar 04, 2012, 10:59 AM
Registered User
Sweden Linköping
Joined Aug 2009
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Quote:
Any reason in particular why you want to use square arms?
I think it would be a little lighter when you don't have to use plate
for motor and blocks too the UAP1.(I thougt too use the two inner hole of the
UAP1 CC plate,and simple drill hole in the arms that match that,and maybe
drill some new near the edge of the plate) and I have some Aluminum Square
profiles,that haven't been used.I understand that it won't be so strong compare
too Rusty's frame solution.But I take that risk


Quote:
Originally Posted by 13brv3 View Post
There have never been any blocks to fit 10mm square tubing, so it's pretty unlikely that anyone has used them on a UAP1.

I've always preferred round arms, but square works too, and plenty of designs use them. If you really want to use 10mm square arms, you should be able to find several frames that support it.

Cheers,
Rusty
I really like what you Rusty offer at your shop to a nice price!If I should go the "mikrokopter frame way" it would be more expensive,and I dont want to use the mikrokopter flight board.
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Last edited by sjak; Mar 05, 2012 at 11:33 AM.
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 10:28 AM
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Joined Jan 2012
396 Posts
Size of Props With Avrotos

Rusty and all, I have a quad built with Rusty's frame right now. I can use 11 or 12 inch propellors. How does that scale when building a hex or Octo. Would a hex use six 10's or an octo six 10's or 8's. Thanks Roman
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 05:45 PM
Quadrophenia
egaus's Avatar
Seattle
Joined Mar 2009
915 Posts
Hey Rusty,

I purchased a MQ-1 frame. The motors I have are: GT2210/13 (http://www.maxfordusa.com/gf221020-30-2-1.aspx)

Can you suggest other motor/esc/prop combo that would work for a nice flying sport quad?

Thanks!

e
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